Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Loud Gear Meshing Like Grinding Noise - Delayed Hard Shift 2 - 3
Jun 10, 2016
I have an early 99 F250 4x4 7.3L..... 4R100....
Brief history, a while back on way home from work I let off of the accelerator and had a loud gear meshing like grinding noise, got back on the accelerator and went away, let off and back, so I quickly stopped and pulled over, went through the gears and reverse, everything seemed ok,??? went on my way, got home parked the truck and went about my evening. came out next day to leave and truck wouldn't move in reverse, forward but not reverse. long story short I was told that the snap ring internally probably came out, I have heard of this being a big issue with these, so I set up for it to be rebuilt, got it back and installed and still same issue, what the crap so I ended up having to pull it back out and amongst my own trouble shooting I found the simple issue and was the nylon riders on the 4hi/4low shifter fork were completely gone and allowing the planetary group to free float in and out of 4x4 neutral!!! NOW on to the issue at hand. so far only thing has been done is rebuilt and those fork riders replaced.
now I can move but 2-3 upshift under a load(more noticeable) has a delay going from 2nd to 3rd and under a load it hits hard. I talked to the guy that rebuilt it and he said that the rebuild kits don't always the right springs for the valve body and causes shift issues, so he talked me into the shift corrector kit which I researched and did see what he was saying, so had that done and still no better, still does it, however, it does shift into the gear softer but didn't fix the delay or the hitting hard when it did finally go into 3rd.
After being forced to drive it that way I have since determined that what it happening is it is coming out of 2nd with a second and half pause and then shifting into 3rd, the hard shift comes in to play because during the delay the torque convertor is locking up making it a direct drive like popping the clutch on a standard!!!
I just swapped out the sol pack and I heard from a youtube video that the bolt next to the 2-3 upshift valve on the valve body could be to tight and making a sticky valve, so I re-torqued all the bolts and nuts put all back together and test drive proved to be worse, I now have same issue in all upshifts. all hit hard now, I am at a loss and don't know where to go from here, I can only imaging the sol pack is causing this but I have yet put my org one back in to see... oh and I found two bolts on the accumulator stripped and found one non torqued bolt on the main valve body!!
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I noticed my '99 started getting difficult to get in gear & shift, within a coupe of days the peddle was barely off the floor before it would engage. A day later it started 'creeping' if started while in gear. Replaced the master/slave cylinders with no change.
Is a clutch replacement the next step? Just thought I would ask before throwing money at it, since the only other times I've had clutch issues there was slipping or it just plain exploded.
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This started yesterday. A Loud grinding type noise from the top of the engine. As soon as I touch the throttle the noise goes away. I checked the pulleys and TC and everything checks out. Sounds like it's coming from the HPOP gear area like a gear train noise. Maybe the additional oil pressure has something to do with the HPOP inside getting quiet.
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I recently bought a 2005 F250 4x4 automatic trans with 177,000 miles. In the last 300 or so miles it has developed a whine from under the truck like gears not meshing. It is constant and only the speed of the truck seems to affect the volume of it. It is loudest, considerable louder, on deceleration. Different gears have no effect, 4x4 high or low has no effect, even slipping it into neutral while its rolling has no effect. I have seen various websites about bad wheel bearings, transfer cases, and rear end gears causing this type of noise. There is no vibrations, slipping, shuttering, at anything else unusual. Except for noise it drives ad rides completely normal.
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I have been having an issue with my 4-5 gear shift under hard acceleration and know that a rebuild is due soon but I was wondering if any high performance kit available with all the clutches and friction discs needed to rebuild.
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It's happened to me the last 3 times I've taken my truck out and drove through some deep snow. I have a hard time shifting the transmission from drive to park. The snow must get packed up under the truck near the shift linkages.
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I need to replace the cable on my gear shift indicator. Of course you can't just replace the cable. I have even looked on you tube and not found anything. I don't know if maybe I am using the wrong search terms or not.
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i bought a f250, i rebuilt the 7.3 after installing it the transmission isn't shifting correctly. Reverse perfect, 1st and shifts to 2nd great. wont go into 3rd. i replaced the 2 sensors on the transmission, i replaces the sensor on the 3rd member. the speedometer works but not correctly, i can unplug the sensor on the front of transmission and it shifts into 3rd. but when i plug it back it doesn't. no codes. could it be the ecm?
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Well, I think my clutch is falling apart. I am hearing an intermittent nasty noise coming from somewhere in the bell housing/oil pan area. It comes and goes, but seems to be more frequent lately. It sounds like a dryer that somebody threw a pair of sneakers and some rocks in; with a metallic clunking noise of something being "churned" around. As I said, sounds almost exactly like the dryer thing.
The clutch does not seem to be slipping, but I do occasionally have difficulty getting it into gear at a stop. I'm guessing that the clutch disc has thrown a hub spring, and its rattling around in the bell housing. Assuming I need a clutch; which I think I do, I need selecting one. I have no history on the clutch or flywheel, so I will assume that I need a new flywheel to match whatever clutch I get.
I can't get a stock replacement, due to the injectors/chip/etc.... I would estimate I am making about 350hp/700ft-lbs. I don't tow currently, but I may pull a car trailer in the future. I DO haul heavy loads in the bed (4,000lbs) on a regular basis. I also drive/shift aggressively, as well as shifting quickly. While I spend a decent amount of time on the highway, I also do a lot of stop and go stuck in traffic driving; so smooth engagement is important. So, no ceramic/ceramic in/out type clutches.
I do NOT want a South Bend. I don't want a super soft pedal. Also, the whole pedal-sticking-to-the-floor thing they mention is unacceptable. Personally, I think they should be ashamed of themselves for putting out a product with such an obvious unsafe design/engineering flaw, and then try to explain it away as "normal". Nope. They need to go back to the drawing board and fix that. As I said, it constitutes a serious safety hazard.
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Problems with my 2001 F250 4r100 transmission. Transmission will only shift to 2nd gear when throttle is feathered at @2500 rpm. All other gears shift perfectly. This problem is consistent.
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As would be expected things deteriorate on a 16-year-old truck. My alarm has, on a few occasions, decided to annoy anyone around by activating for no apparent reason. This has happened in various conditions (in the parking lot, in the driveway, right after I've driven it, or sitting half the night). I chalked it up to aging circuitry.
Now I've picked up something new. Over the last few weeks my truck may or may not arm. It seems to be a flip of the coin. I'll drive to the store and I push the button on my remote and the truck goes "beep"..."beep". 10 minutes later I drive home, park the truck, push the remote, and the truck goes "beep"...and that's it. My alarm light is blinking two quick flashes when this happens.
Since this has started my truck has begun randomly having a delayed start. I'll disarm the truck, turn the key, and nothing happens for about 1 second or so (seems longer) then the truck starts normally.
Both of these issues started pretty close to the same time. I would normally go straight for a starter issue but I don't know if these might be related. I'm the second owner so have absolutely no idea about the Ford anti-theft system, how it's connected, or what the blinking lights mean.
I'm considering disconnecting the anti-theft system to see if that makes a difference but, as stated, how it's connected, what I might disable, or how it works. Was there any documentation published on it?
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My truck has been doing great over here in Germany, and I want it to stay that way lol. I know the snow is fast approaching here and figured I should test my 4x4(I usually do monthly anyway). After switching to 4-high and making the first turn in the open parking lot, I heard a lot of popping and grinding from the front end. I straightened the wheel and out and the grinding /popping continued.
I stopped, got out of the truck to try and lock the hubs to see if that would fix the issue. turns out the passenger side hub is locked up tight. I couldnt move it by hand and wasnt about to attempt to move it with added leverage.
What this could be? maybe a collapsed vacuum hose? but then I should still be able to manually turn my I hubs I would think.
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Well I've been towing for almost 150,000 miles with a 2012 6.7 Lariat 4 wheel drive. Things have been going pretty well with the truck. I noticed some sluggish and indecisive type shifts early on but now I'm worried. I depend on this truck for pulling a horse trailer all over the country and Canada. Just recently I've been getting a hard shift or a thump or a clunk when shifting up or down in to second gear. I'm at about 152,000 miles and did a hot flush with LV ATF at about 148,000 miles. Should I worry or keep running?
I have a 97' PSD I'm thinking of giving a nice paint job and a flat bed but am reluctant to do so due to financial concerns and the fact that some folks may not want to see me pull up in an old truck no matter how nice it looks. My tranny temps have been stating under 200F and I really keep an eye on the temps when running up and down the hills while towing. The trailer is a 35' Gooseneck with a max GVRW or 14,000 pounds. Should I wait for the tranny to grenade and then drop in a built tranny and if so who's building these tranny's stronger than stock? Long time no see but this site has always been my go to for all my Ford truck questions, upgrades, etc.
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I have a 4r100 on in a 99 7.3 4x4. The shifting problem I have appears to be intermittant. it seems loose after warm up especially at the 4th shift overdrive and passing gear. possibly due to low presures ? sometimes (lately more often than not) hunts back and forth between 4th and o.d when passing or hill climbing. Under normal driving it shifts somewhat firm with 4th being an exeption.I have changed my crank position sensor filters and fluids which had turned dark and improved slightly. When I pulled the pan and replaced the filter the pan was spotless. No residue or signs of plates or debris. There is about 100,000 miles on the tranny and 350,000 on the truck. Questions: Is there a tcm for this transmission and if so could it cause these problems? I'm considering a purchase of an unlocked 1705 superchip to change the shifting but unsure if this will work for my issues...
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Does Delayed Accessory Relay 306 control radio on an 02 F-350?
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The noise is somewhere between a tin rattle and a bearing grinding heard most when braking but constant under say 10 mph. We have not been able to pinpoint where exactly it is coming from but I believe it is front drivers side.(but really could be anywhere) it is not dependent on rpm, nor gear or clutch engagement, Nor hubs engaged or disengaged.
The drives side front hub, rear hubs' bearings(races and seals) have been replaced. I have the passenger side front hub to do as well, just haven't gotten to it yet and it doesn't seem bad. we are all stumped on what it is. It seems to relate to the rotating assembly though as it seems to change with speed. it almost seems like tire rub, but there is no scaring or marks of any sort anywhere for it.
Vehicle is a e99 f250 short bed ext cab. open diff if it makes any difference. My next thought after the hub is pinion bearing? Could it be something to do with abs? say the truck is 4 wheel abs but the fronts are disconnected (trying to figure out if it is 4wabs as it appears to have connectors, but the original hubs did not have the hole for the sensors. no abs light comes on, but that could be a bad bulb too)
What we have found is hubs locked or unlocked, 4wd engaged or disengaged, and happens at right around 16 mph, braking, accelerating, clutch in or out, in gear or in neutral. All 4 corners have new bearings. We have found 2 things, 1 is the track bar bushings are shot (don't think this is the source of the noise but could be wrong and i will be replacing those..once I have money in again.. 2 the passenger side leaf spring when wacked with your hand makes a different sound than the drivers side.( could be a matter of different loads, but figured worth noting)
There are 2 noises, the first is the noise we hear, the second is one that i found when doing the noise reduction (loud meaty tires you cant hear the noise in the audio without reduction) I think that that was one of the hubs, or maybe the brakes, I am unsure, but it happens at different locations in the video.
Audio : [URL] ....
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I have a 2001 f 350 7.3 diesel r 400 tranny 320000 miles. . Im having transmission issues. It makes a slight whine/ grinding noise only in first And reverse. And it surges. Sometimes its fine though to. Check engine light came on. Only codes i get are #4 glow plug out and a low boost pressure. Checked boost before fixin Running fine at the normal about 20 psi. ive read a bad or dirty map or iat sensor can cause transmission issues along with the low boost error code. But in my experience and some reading it sounds like a stall converter.
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I think my pcm has gone bad. My wait to start light won't come on an when I turn my key on I can't hear my fuel pump cut on anymore. My vacuum pump is also making a loud noise.
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I've got a loud, intermittent, swooshing, vibrating noise from the front left wheel area at highway speeds. I put a camera down there and saw that when there was noise, the front driveshaft and front left halfshaft were spinning. When they stopped spinning on their own, the noise stopped. Hubs are Warn Premium (gold) and unlocked. Unit bearing already replaced. What could it be?
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Ok just needing info, am I about to have any major issues as my truck is making a loud rhythmic squeaking noise when I move at any speed that is lower then what the speedometer will register (5mph or less) should I be concerned about the noise? It only occurred when I'm at very slow parking lot speeds....
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when i accelerate or let off the peddle I hear and aloud thug or dull bang. I've checked and greased all the u joints. Disconnected the carrier bearing and separated the drive shaft and greased it up. Still get the noise I have very little play in the carrier bearing but I don't think that's the problem. It sounds to me like might be at the transmission. What do y'all think it is?
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