Have a pretty good running (I think), 2000 7.3 with 151K that has always been pretty noisy. Lots of clatter. I amjust wondering if there's an easy way to tell if I may have injector issues starting to come up.
View 8 RepliesAlright. 99 Ford F-250 4x4 Ext Cab 287,000 miles. I know she is getting a little long in the tooth but this issue is new within the last month. It does seem to be better when it has been plugged in. On start up I smoke out the neighborhood. Blueish/White smoke, also sounds like it's missing on a couple injectors. Doesn't matter if you cycle the glowplugs a good long time. No luck. Glow plugs are 1 1/2 years old along with injector o rings. Only thing new is I changed from Rotella T-6 to Delo 5W40 Syn, but it was doing it before the switch as well. I tested my glowplugs relay and that is working fine. Could I have lost a UVCH? Fuel filter six months ago or so.
View 14 RepliesWell, today i had my first bout with tranny issues of any kind either before or after my BTS installation. After sitting all day at work, heading home, the shift i guess from 2-3 at about 40-50 mph shifted really hard, BANG. Heard a whirring/whining sound, lots of slipping with the TC. After a lil ways it was like it was in neutral.
Coasted to stop. Went thru the gears from park, rev, and drive about 3 times, got movement each time. Got out, looked for obvious, no fluids or linkages apparent. Drove thru town about 25-30 mph. Felt like it was "hunting" and shifted like a manual grinding gears. Got on highway and no overdrive and im thinking no high gear either.
Push button on shifter light changes, but no change in operation. Running 60 and rpms are turning 2700ish. Still "hunting". But while hunting it isn't wide rpm swings, just a small amount, not wide enough for a gear shift. I am thinking that its torque converter constantly engaging and disengaging.
While letting out of gas it coasts down with TC still locked up all the way down to about 1100 rpm before unlocking. Then I start seeing the OD light flashing. Ok, classic wire chafe in steering column. But it doesn't always flash, only sometimes. And fuses are good. Temps never got above 150 during this 50 mile drive.
So i get home (and its frigging dark already, i hate that this time of year) and I log on and start reading up on this again to refresh my memory. I had called Brian over at BTS when it happened as i was going down the road, he was busy at time. He called me after i got home and i explained and he talked me thru some things. Wanted me to pull the codes and get back with him tomorrow. I did that and the screen shot is below. I will talk more with Brian tomorrow.
But during some of my reading i think i came across some others that had similar trans codes and the issue ended up being the alternator. Alternator ? For trans issues? Is that right? I guess stranger things have happened. I have a high output alt waiting to be installed but haven't yet. I guess we shall see. Brian thinks it something telling the TC and trans to act that way. Doesn't think anything mechanical, yet, leaning towards electrical.
Steering wise, it seems very likely that I'm due for a steering box. Lots of slop when I turned the wheels back and forth. Also, as per the seller, it seems like the the wheel bearings and ball joints are in good shape.
The sway bar end link bushings are smoked, so those need replacing. As for oil leaks. I'm thinking it would be best to pull the motor. It looks like this engine has had the pan off, but I do believe I have a front pain leak. The crank case breather is going into the intake which is annoying. And I believe the intercooler is full of oil, explaining the mystery oil leak by the passenger side intercooler boot.
Couldn't see any oil in the valley of the motor but I see oil coming down the down pipe of the exhaust, out the bell housing of the motor and dripping from a weep hole maybe 8 inches down the transmission as well? Seeing as to how I'm not sure what clutch I have, it make sense to pull the trans. And If I have the dreaded oil pan leak and a intercooler full of oil, why not just pull the motor? I'd also like to trim out the front panel for 05+ head lights and clean up the wiring on this thing. Found a cheesy electric compressor for a small horn. Sounds like a clown horn, no kidding.
1999 7.3 misses when starting it cold (first start of the day even when outside temps were around 20 deg C ). It has a noticeable miss and lots of white smoke. After warming up it runs perfect. I changed the GPR and tested all glow plugs, 3 bad and one weak one all replaced. Now that it is cold out it still misses when first started, even if left plugged in.
It will start and run for approx 3 seconds perfectly smooth then it starts to miss and idle speed slows down. on one occasion I went to start it after sitting 10 plus hours plugged in and it started then missed and slowly died. Would not re start, It was firing and smoking but not enough to get going again. Went back the next day and it started and ran fine for a few weeks. Did the same thing to me yesterday, started and then petered out and died and this time it will not re start after 2 days of trying on a couple occasions. I changed out the CPS with no luck.
7.3 auto, starts and idles OKAY, drives fine if you have a light foot but trying to go faster than 50mph or more than 2000 rpm and the whole thing has an anxiety attack. Starts sputtering and popping, lots of grey smoke when it runs rough rough, let off the throttle and it MIGHT behave nicely again.
New lift pump, cleaned the pickup tube, fuel bowl fills nice and fast, just had my edge attitude juice tuner removed since it was causing similar issues that went away for the last 2 months, changed my IPR and CPS (had a mechanic test everything when the tuner was taken out, all injectors buzzed good, sensors good)
When this first happened after the initial problem with the tuner was resolved, it did throw the CEL, but I have since been able to get it to come back on, and my buddies OBD2 scanner wasn't even registering my truck when I hooked up... Dare I say PCM is to blame?
My truck is currently stock and recently started making a knocking noise louder than it usually does. I researched and have found the injectors can make a knocking noise when not performing correctly. I took it to a local shop who hooked it up to a snap on scan tool and ran some tests. It passed the Buzz test but continually failed the contribution test on cylinder 8. I'm going to go home and remove valve cover and unclip the injector to see if the noise goes away. I'm sure hoping it does as an injector by the looks of things is definitely the cheaper option. I'm scared because if I was listening to a gas powered truck and heard the sound my trucks making I would assume it was a lower end noise. My truck only has 148,000 miles....
View 14 RepliesSo I have a 2002 7.3 Excursion and I think it is low on power. ICP is falling on its face when on a 60 or 80 HP tune. I have some boost leaks at the plenums and will work on that but that shouldn't cause my ICP to tank at full throttle. Following are some numbers I pulled with WOT runs up a 6% grade.
16PSI BOOST
EXHAUST PRESSURE 40
ICP 1900
80%IPRDC
this is with the 60 or 80HP tune on my DP-tuner. If I ease into the throttle I get
2700 ICP with
45%IPRDC
but if I stomp on the throttle it stumbles and ICP tanks.
Running the stock tune I can maintain
2700ICP at
40-45%IPRDC
Is this my HPOP being weak, or worn out injectors, to much of a tune or a combo of all three?
So we begin w/ another saga for the 7.3l Excursion......
A few months ago it started running like crap, real crap and blowing white smoke like crazy. Well I knew this from a previous episode and I had a bad or multiple bad injectors. I tried to trouble shoot which one it was and maybe just replace the one or two....but no it was worse than that. So Life was really busy it kinda got shoved aside until now.
I pulled all the injectors and had them rebuilt locally ..nice. They ended up being with mech for a couple of weeks because he went out of town...no problem. Well this entire time my rig was untouched and when I got them back #7 was full of water.....great, bad injector cup. #7 was the only one, the rest were dry. So I drained the radiator and the oil and left it overnight to completely drain and installed the new injector cup in #7. Next day I refilled via both heads because the valve covers were off, 4 gallons of oil and a new oil filter. Cleared the cylinders via the glow plugs and commenced to trying to get her started. Nada......just cranks, killed the batteries, recharged over night and left the box on them and still nada....but the oil was still very milky at this point.
So tonight I pulled all the injectors back out and drained the oil again, still a lot of water. This time I sucked out the HPOP reservoir and got a more milky water/oil out and I'm leaving everything open all night.
In the am I plan to check my overflow water level in the hopes it remains at the same level...if so I will reinstall all 8 injectors and refill the motor w/ 4 gallons of fresh oil and try again.
Oh, while I was attempting get her started I put my buddies Snapon scan tool on it and I got the p1271-p1278 codes w/ the buzz test. (low side to high side open circuit between idm and injector) So I found the pin test with everything connected at the idm pigtail and everything tested good. So I'm back to my not so fresh oil anymore is the culprit to it not starting.
Am I missing something here?
Also....another fun filled fact is that I seem to have a fuel leak somewhere at the rear passenger side. Every time my fuel bowl fills up, if I shut the key off it will drain down. Sometimes I can see fuel dripping quite vigorously onto my starter but I can not see where it is coming from. I have while it was dripping ran my hand along the head and the fuel lines and can not find where it is coming from. Any thoughts as to where in the hell this fuel could be leaking from?
This is a 1999 with 200k on it. It has a really bad hpop so valley is full of oil. Haven't removed the HPOP to inspect the non serviceable plug or the hpop gasket. doing that this week. This truck I just bought and it has aftermarket injectors so dont know the miles in injectors. once the oil leak is resolved I can then give the injectors the once over to make sure theyre okay. Question is how much of a stream of oil should I expect to see as the engine runs?
View 11 RepliesSo I got all 8 injectors upgraded and excited when I get them back I put them all in in kind of a rush. And in that rush I left the cylinders full of excess oil. So obviously when I tried to start it hydro locked. Angry at myself. I kept trying to crank hoping it would fire and just shoot that oil out. Nope, so I went back to taking all the glow plugs out and firing it all back out. Put it all back together then tried to fire her up. Took a minute but she started and I let it run for a while. Hit the gas a few times and then it died. Couldn't get it started again. It would just crank, I checked the icp and ipr and the icp did not build above 35 psi and the ipr was at 98.04% so I just figured the o rings blew out when it hydro locked.
So I took it all back apart put new o rings on, took my time and put it back together right double checking everything. Got it all back together and went to start it, it would just crank around 160-170 rpms, battery voltage at 10.6 icp built up to 140 but now it won't build past 40. Ipr still goes to 98.04. The engine ran just fine prior to injector change, I put a new upgraded hpop prior to injector change, new ipr, icp, cps. Everything checks out, but it will not build oil pressure while crank I've killed a set of batteries then went all out and spent 350 at napa for some optima red tops. I did notice the cylinder 7 injector is the AE injector. It suppose to be in cylinder 8, idk if that's affect the oil pressure building up?
But as far as I know, I'm not building oil pressure. So idk if the hydro lock could have ruined something to keep it from building oil pressure?
Are there more parts that i would have to get when putting in new injectors in my 2000 f250?
View 14 RepliesWhat causes oil coming out of the oil spouts on the injectors? I pulled my VC to re torque my injectors down and I noticed 2 of mine are now leaking oil out the spouts(when warming the engine). Note I did not say the base of the injector.
View 8 RepliesI just bought a 99 F350 with 240k miles on it and got it for a deal because it needed injectors. Ive done the same job to my 97 OBS powerstroke. The injectors were already pulled so I had them sent for rebuild, the problem is I cant tell which injector goes where. is there a trick to figuring out where each injector goes when I put it back together?
View 4 RepliesI paid for brand new injectors and when i took them out today they all had dings and small gouges in the plates,is this normal?they are 180/100 cc
View 4 RepliesI changed my injectors and glow plugs on passenger side. I tried to start the engine and it wont crank (turn over). I tried to turn over by hand by turning alternator bolt counter clockwise, turns a little bit and then get very difficult. Is this hydro lock? I stuck a suction tube down injector holes and made it to the piston not much oil came out, I think the truck was a little low on oil before I started the project. The starter wont turn the engine over. I even turned the engine over by hand many times before I put glow plugs in to evacuate the cylinders. I don't know what to do?
View 14 RepliesI just replaced my cups because of bad leak. well replaced all cups and injector from a rolled truck the truck ran when pulled. well installed went to start and have tried for 2 days on and off still not start did buzz test and passed , checked oil reserve and was full. When I first tried to start it acted like it was hydrolocked and then hit it again and been turning fine
YouTube ....
Someone just told me I need to put additive in coolant so the injectors don't rust. I've never heard of this.
View 14 RepliesI recently did the following work:
New Injectors
New T500 Hpop
New IPR
New ICP Sensor
New UVCH/Glowplugs
New starter
Been cranking about 15-30 seconds each time about a dozen times now. I've pulled the icp and the hp crossover and have oil flowing at each.
ICP builds to about 240 psi and at a 98% duty cycle....so I assume there's still some air in the system. I"m not getting any sense that the engine is trying to hit. Do i just keep cranking?
I just replaced all 8 injectors in my 01 F550 with remans from FFD. I have noticed a constant knock at idle but truck runs great. Blowby has no pressure behind it, truck does not smoke. Does this sound like a problem unrelated to an injector?
It did not make this noise before replacing the injectors
[URL] .....
So I replaced all the rings on my injectors . After putting them back in turned the engine over 5-7 times by hand with the glow plugs out. Then I turned it over with them out as well with the valve covers off. After than I installed everything back in. Now is my problem. I've turned it over 5 times and no luck. Not even on turn over. The oil light keeps coming on?? The indicator doesn't move up at all. It will go up and come down ? Is something wrong with the hpop? Should I keep cranking? Gotta to charge the batteries now..
2001 f250 7.3