Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Lost Serpentine Belt - Overheated
Sep 17, 2016
I was cruising along yesterday and felt the steering pump go out on the highway. Nowhere to pull over and pulling a big horse trailer. Three miles later I finally get to a wide spot to dive into. I look down and the temp gauge is maxed and the oil light is on. Most of the antifreeze boils out when I got the engine shut down. I had no choice but to have a friend bring a new belt and some antifreeze to the rescue. Got it changed and filled back up. Started and drove home fine.
I've got this twisted gut feeling about the whole deal. What kind of damage did I likely do? Things to look for? Did I just kill the longevity of the motor? I've been trying to do things right and treat it well to ensure a reliable truck.
On a side note the belt came apart in ribbons and it was absolutely shredded. The belt appeared to be less than 3 months old. No cracks or tears and a bright white numbers sticker on the back
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Leaving on a 200 mile trip in the morning and when checking the fluids, I found the serpentine belt trying to get off the AC pulley. I've put in on twice and it immediately jumps half way off when starting the engine. How long it's been doing this. Nothing is obviously loose or moved. What is likely causing this?
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About 2 weeks ago i noticed that the serpentine belt started shredding. I noticed it before it was all gone, so i parked it and started ordering parts before i did anything. Since i had to get the radiator hose off, i decided to flush the coolant, change the thermostat and the upper radiator hose to go around the belt. Once the parts arrived, I drained the coolant and did two flushes and tried to change the hoses and thermostat. the Gates hose ended up not being the right hose, in hindsight I should have used the old hose and put it back together.
But I returned the Gates hose and ordered a Motorcraft hose. not thinking, i left the system dry and possibly sitting with water from the previous flush. Three days ago, I got the correct Motorcraft part and did the work on Sunday. since it had been sitting, i decided to run another flush, i noticed a squeaking sound and that the water was coming out a little browner than when i left it. So I ran another two flushes and said to hell with it and put the whole thing back together and filled it with coolant and distilled water.
This morning, the squeaking sound was louder, but temps where fine and coolant level was fine. I drove to work ( about a 10 mile drive) and when i finally stopped, i got a whiff of coolant smell. I noticed coolant behind me and when i lifted the hood, i noticed the reservoir was half empty and coolant dripping down from the center of the block. I can still hear the squeaking, I figure the water pump is on its last leg and decide i need to go home. I walk in to work and let them know I'm gonna take the day off to situate this. Before i leave, i top off the reservoir with a gallon of distilled water and head out.
After a short distance I notice that the squeaking stops, now I'm terrified that the water pump just completely failed. (I've never had one fail on me so I'm not sure what happens when it does) As i drive home, I'm watching all my gauges. none of the temperature gauges spike, everything was normal for the drive home (another 10 miles) I park it and lift the hood and the reservoir is completely full. why is reservoir completely full? why would a leak like that stop? Should i just change the water pump? I don't want to just hope for the best, i do use my excursion to haul the kids from time to time.
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I have 1997 F250 LD since i bough it has been doing this chirping sound coming from the serpentine belt and the pulley area but when the truck has been working for 15 - 20 min it goes away
This is apart from the from the problem before I think the fan clutch is broken because when I start the truck I can hear the fan going at the same speed of the engine is that normal ? even when the truck is cold
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My serp belt started squealing so I pulled the thermostat housing to inspect the rubber gasket. It looked OK, but I cleaned up both surfaces and replaced with a new gasket, and put it back together. The housing was replaced just a couple months ago along with new hoses. It was not corroded and OK to reuse.
Started the truck up and saw a slowish/steady drip of red Cat ELC dripping on the driveway. Opened the hood up again and carefully inspected around the thermostat housing - no coolant is leaking there.
I did notice the same slow/steady drip coming from just behind and beneath the thermostat housing. See in pic, this is where it is dripping. One other question, what is this plug for on the side of the water pump?
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Just a quick question, my serpentine belt fell off while driving on the freeway today and wondering what are the possible causes for this too happen? First things that came too mind were tensioner or worn out belt. Hard to believe the belt would be worn out though as it only has 65k miles.
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2006 6.0l ... I've read all over for tips on routing this belt and everyone plays it off as being some simple '20-minute' task. I'm on my 4th hour on this now.
I can't figure out how to route the belt around the tensioner pulley, circled in the picture (from another thread). Everyone glosses over how to do this and I can't figure it out.
It seems like the only way to get it on is to bend the belt and slide it between the pulley and the block, but that I just can't reach the blasted thing.
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So on my way home today I lost all power, the engine shut of and i coasted to side of the road. Went to try and start, nothing. When key is in the crank position the gauges were jumping all over the place, also accompanied by a lot of clicking from behind the dash. Nothing happened when tried to crank. No power to windows or even emergency flashers.
So i get it towed home, and of course it turns over. But this only lasts about ten seconds, then dies. I could do that a few times and then back to no power at all. Even at times with the keys out of ignition it will still click and make a lot of noise.
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I have a 2000 f350. Lost power whole driving and won't start back up. I have checked all my fuses and relays several times. Have no power to the fuel pump. Tried running a hot wire straight to the pump and still nothing.checked my emergency cur off switch and there is no power there. Also my WTS light isn't coming on now. Tried checking the heater bowl and no power there.
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My 99 E350 with 7.3 power stroke quickly lost power while on the highway today, bogged down and died. I couldn't get it restarted so had to have it towed home. I tried getting it started at home but it just pumps out white smoke out the exhaust. I got it to fire and run for a minute on a mixture of starting fluid and wd40 but wont stay running. Some background info, I checked oil and it was low but still registered at very tip of dipstick so I topped off oil level and still no start unless I give it a mixture of starting fluid and wd40. Batteries are good and cranking fast. Truck has 355,000 miles but very little blow by and prior to this had plenty of power and didn't have to use the block heater to start it thru the winter even when the temps dropped down to 12 degrees in January.
One thing I did have an issue with this past year was an intermittent cutting out while driving where the engine would instantly shut off but as soon as I tapped accelerator pedal it would start running again like nothing happened, wouldn't even last two seconds and it was running again just like shutting off the key and turning it back on and when it would do that the "Wait to start" light would come on and gauges would drop like key was off but again it all went back normal as soon as I hit a bump or tapped the accelerator pedal and it never lasted more than a second or two and never had to pull over, just tap the pedal or hit a bump and engine would kick in and run fine so not sure if that's related to whats going on now or not.
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I lost a hose in the driver side front wheel well this morning while pulling RV to a campground. By the time I got there and got the RV disconnected, I lost all power steering. I reconnected the hose using a zip tie and have a friend bringing me fluid to refill reservoir.
Is my pump toast now? Can I refill the reservoir and prime the lines and be good to go?
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Last year I did some major work on my 02. Painted it, new injectors, 38R, and once it was back together, the transmission went south in a month. Got a Ford reman HD4R100. Shortly after the install, when in reverse, the torque convertor would lock up when you stepped on the throttle. As soon as you let off the throttle, it would disengage. Thinking it was a tranny issue, got another one from Ford. This one has been in the truck for about 9 months. And it seemed fine until about a month ago. It started doing the torque convertor lockup thing in reverse like the last one, but not as often.
Then last weekend it did it every time I put it in reverse. Then yesterday, while pulling away from a traffic light, there was a loud bang, and lost power in the transmission. Once stopped, I found out it has manual 1st and 2nd, but nothing else. No drive, overdrive, or reverse. I personally believe something electrical led to these issues, and ultimately, the transmission failure. I know the truck is not stock, but I do not run it hard very much. When it went bang yesterday, I was not being hard on it. Where to look at what is causing this?
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While pulling onto the highway and pulling pretty hard lost engine power all boost then engine truned off. Top of engine is covered in oil..... What happened?
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Comming back from hunting today my truck suddenly lost power and stepping on the accelearator had no effect at all. We were on the highway thru the mountains but on a fairly level stretch for a few miles. Managed to pull the truck and toy hauler over and the engine was running fine but stepping on the accelerator had no effect. The check engine light came on every time I stepped on the throttle and went out when I released it. It started fine but no throttle response. Switched around a bunch of relays and checked the fuses and still nothing.
Not liking my parking spot i tried to see if it would move down the road at an idle but it would not. Then I thought to try it in 4 wheel low and as the shoulders were soft it wouldn't move forward so tried reverse and went back a foot, forward again and moved a foot and a half. did this several times and all of a sudden the throttle responded, took it out of 4 wheel and it ran fine all the way home. What would have caused this? I was ready to call a tow truck which would have been several hundred dollar bills for where we were and with the trailer
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I want test my fuel pressure. What is a good gauge or kit to buy? My truck has lost power towing and is now starting to miss a little. I'm wandering if i my problem is in the tank. Is there a good scan tool that would diagnose things too?
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So after hitting a pothole, it would seem like half the engine lost power, after some searching around, i found that i would most likely be the harness inside the valve cover that has lost connection.
Its the right side, so i would need to take of the turbo pipe, and probably something else to get to it.
Since i'm doing this job, what to check out along the way? I want my 7.3 to be as reliable as possible.
I will probably ask some questions along the way, it can be a challenge sometimes to own a car that not many mechanics are familiar with, but as i have read online, this should be a very straight forward fix.
Can the harness be upgraded so it doesn't happen again? Its an 02
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As I was getting ready to leave town with the tractor loaded up, I was accelerating with the turbo spooling up when I heard a bit of a pop and lost power (engine still running and all, just very low power like you get when the turbo fails). I wasn't far from the shop so I came back and started getting a lot of white smoke out of the exhaust, it doesn't smell like diesel, probably more like oil. Definitely smoke, not coolant. I pulled it around back and shut it down to go grab AE and scan it and it shows a P0475, starting it back up has light smoke at idle and it idles fine but as soon as you give it any throttle it starts smoking pretty badly.
Researching it looks like the most likely cause for this is the EBPV itself but before tearing it down that far. This is the only code it's showing.
Truck has 272k on it, turbo was rebuilt a couple of years ago but we didn't do anything with the pedestal at that time. I guess in retrospect, I probably should have done the EBPV delete and the resistor fix then but I didn't think about it at the time.
On another note, my AE is not showing any of the system test for some reason, the drop down is blank. I have version 7.0.1, so it's an old version but I'm working on an old truck, so... What that might be? I've got the truck pulled into the shop now to let it cool down. I'll probably let it sit overnight and take the turbo and EBPV out tomorrow unless someone has a better suggestion...
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I have a 2002 F250 Super Duty. Was driving it and it started to lose power and shut off. Then wouldn't start like out of fuel. No engine light no codes. Truck has 155k on it. So just because I replaced fuel pump. Truck runs but not right it's ruff no power kinda back fires in exhaust. I check wires and plugs under valve covers all seems ok. I ran truck and pulled each injector loose and engine would stumble. As in they are working. I replaced cps. Just because still the same. Then the truck started running right. But the truck runs but has knock but knock goes away and truck has full power. Yes oil is full and I change it regularly. The problem is off and on like electrical.
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Driving home from movies tonight, I lost power steering and power brakes and the pump started growling. Looked in the reservoir and it was all foamed up. Within the last 20k mi I have flushed the system and refilled with power steering fluid. No apparent leaks at this time. And happened like someone flipped a switch. Fine one turn, nothing the next. What are the chances this is a fluid issue and not a mechanical one? Start with flushing system and adding Mercon V? Or is it likely pump is damaged?
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So I have a 1999.5 F350 diesel and the fuse panel under the steering wheel is acting up. I was driving my truck home the other night and I lost power and my truck shut off. I have had a problem in the past with the #30- 30 amp fuse ( controls the PCM and glow plugs from my understanding) that is under the steering wheel, I replaced the fuse and everything started working normally again. Until the other night when my truck shut off, so I replaced the fuse the truck drove again for 20 feet died again, I was able to hold the #30 fuse and allow my truck to start up again but would eventually killed the PCM and shut off again and would not start up due to what I believe the fuse location shorting it out and killing the power to the PCM preventing me from starting it up again.
I had my truck towed home and charged the battery and it started up fine the next morning. If I push on the #30 fuse my truck the shorts out and kills the power, I do not know if this is normal? The fuse is sitting loose in the fuse holder is there anyway making it fit tighter to prevent it from being so loose? I have read every other post online about the problems and tried everything they have recommended but still can not figure out what was wrong with my truck. I disconnected the fuel filter heater, and also the wastegate solenoid to see if that would prevent the truck from shorting out if I pushed the fuse it did not work.
What the problem could be causing the #30 - 30 amp fuse to be shorting out preventing everything from working? Or how to test the fuse panel and all the relays?
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Driving along today my trans started doing some weird stuff. It lost all gears. Forward and reverse. If I turned the truck off and let it sit a while it would go again for awhile then loose drive again. When I got home I checked fluid level and did KOEO o/d off and back on. I drove it around the block and it seemed ok, so I went on my way. After about 20 min I noticed the OD light flashing. I checked codes and It had P1754-ccs.
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