Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Left Rear Brake Sticking?
Jan 25, 2017
I noticed today (smell burning brakes) that my left rear brake is sticking on my 1999 2WD F250. I hear that this is a common problem? Is it usually a defective Caliper or emergency brake Issue? I had my rear brakes done 50k ago with rotors and rebuilt calipers (first set went 130k).... I don't think it was a total clamp down infrared temperature was 275 degrees on sticking brake and 75 degrees on the ones that were not sticking.
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Two weeks ago did a road trip to NH from RI and i heard a slight dragging only at low speed (10-15mph) in my left rear tire. figured the caliber was dragging a little, it was. Before arriving in NH the brake light came on. Long story short i get back to RI and the left side noise gets worse and starts to lock up. I finally replace the rotor which was warped, pads, and caliper which was bad.
Was driving it same day and still here the same dragging and screeching noise and the brake light is still on. On my way home the left side locked up at low speed without hitting breaks and slid the truck, mid you all parts are new on that side. I am not sure what it could be at this point something in side the axle?
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A few weeks back my rear drivers side wheel started smoking severely...when I stopped you could smell the brake material, feel the heat coming from the wheel, and lots of smoke. I speculated it was the parking brake that got hung up. I jiggled that cable around and then went around the block - no issue. Note: I did not leave the parking brake on.
It happened again a week later, but not as bad. I took it into the dealer today. They said heat was evident as it burned off a sticker on the disk or caliper hsg area. They have not determined yet if it is parking brake or caliper?
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Well I had a flat today, but that turned out to be a good thing. I noticed the rear brake pads are worn out. They are not metal to metal, but close. I have been looking at Rockauto, Pepboys and others. The funny thing is they never prompt or list different pads for the SRW vs the dually.
Are they the same including the parking brakes shoes? I was going to go with the OEM material or should I go with a ceramic pad?
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I had a brake line crack on my way home yesterday(that was interesting..) It was the drivers side rear metal line from the splitter to the rubber hose. I went to autozone and was like ok easy enough this line is the same length and appeared to be the same diameter. bend to fit and all was well or not.. the fitting on the end was a different thread pitch and size. 1999 f250 4wd if it matters....
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My left side rear blinker/ brake light is not working. The running/taillight side/filment of the bulb works, but the brake/blinker side/filament does nothing ! Just bought the truck used and it's my only issue, waiting on a owners manual, but I think each bulb is fused separate, and since half the bulb works, can I rule out the fuse and start chasing wires ??
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2002 F250 diesel ... I found these two plastic pieces yesterday on the floor near the 4X4 shifter. I noticed the other day when i step on the brake the rear view camera in the head unit comes on, so i am thinking they are either a part of the brake switch on the pedal assembly, or something to do with the shift tube.
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Have 50,000 mile on my 2011 F350 6.7 and up until today the truck has been flawless. This is my weekend vehicle and sees very light duty hauling fishing gear to my boat (100 miles hwy) and pulling my 7x12 enclose trailer with goose decoys. On a couple of occasions pulling my 29 CC from marina to my home and back. Took truck in for oil change and tire rotation, service advisor informs me I have 2mm on rear brakes and 3mm on fronts. Not sure why rears have more wear than fronts. Schedule to have brakes done for today and now find out that front right caliper is sticky and they want to replace both front calipers. I cannot believe that a 2011 SD F350 with 50,000 miles and of that mostly highway needs brakes let a lone calipers are going bad. Service manger tried to tell me that brake fluid should be replaced every 2 years, to which I responded that I have Ford perform all scheduled maintenance. He went on to say that this is not scheduled maintenance, wtf bs is he telling me, if it is necessary then it would be scheduled maintenance. Truck gave zero indication of stuck caliper, no sound and no excessive brake dust on wheel.
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My power steering is only working when i turn it to the left. When I turn it to the right i have to get a 1/4 of a turn in until the power steering takes over. So i get under my truck to discover what seems to be a piece of my tranny missing. How screwed am I ???
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While turning very slow and sharp on the farm, I heard a pop under the hood. I then lost power steering and brakes. I saw power steering fluid spurting in the left tire well behind the tire. Look under hood and saw fluid coming from a fitting on the side of the power steering pump. I have attached a photo....one photo with nothing and then other with a screw driver tip on the fitting.
It appears that the the pressure fitting blew out the side when I turned sharp. It has a nut from which it came (compression of some sort?). I can push the nipple of the fitting back into the nut but I guess the pressure is gone.
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2003 F250 V10 4x4. I have a rear brake sticking so I assume I have to replace the calipers. Which brand should I go with?
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03 F250 7.3. I busted a brake line last week somehow, Got it replaced and fixed up, Bled that line and everything was somewhat good.
Now, when i hit the brakes hard, I have pressure. If I let off even a little, My pedal will start to sink till i apply more pressure. I am gonna fully bleed my brakes when I'm home to see if this could solve the problem.
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I just had a remote start installed with a turbo timer that works off of the parking brake being engaged. No matter how hard I press it the light does not go on, however when the installer probed the sensor to ground it, it worked fine.What part this is that needs to be replaced. The stealership quoted me at 200 something for a whole parking brake assembly.
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I have a 2001 F350 7.3 with a 6" lift..I have a extended pitman arm for the lift and I have just noticed that it is rubbing when I do a left turn....
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Can I re-use this shaft or is that ring around it no good. The ring is around where the bearing sits. It is a circumferential hump all the way around.
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I've had a rattling/clunking sound from my front left wheel recently so I jacked up that corner. As soon as the tire elevated off the ground the bottom fell inward. I could easily push the top of the tire inward and pull the bottom of the tire outward. Does this lead to a bad hub or bad ball joint(s)?
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I've got a loud, intermittent, swooshing, vibrating noise from the front left wheel area at highway speeds. I put a camera down there and saw that when there was noise, the front driveshaft and front left halfshaft were spinning. When they stopped spinning on their own, the noise stopped. Hubs are Warn Premium (gold) and unlocked. Unit bearing already replaced. What could it be?
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Thats the sound coming from I think the front left area and the rate is proportional to speed. It only occurs at slow speed from about 5 to 15 mph and it seems to only occur for about 30% of each rotation. I plan to jack it up and check tire wobble or if the sound occurs during free spin. Any other things to check?
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So I just did my rear brake pads and rotors a few days ago. For the last few months, my e brake hadn't been working well (have to pull it way up, and still weak).
While doing the brakes, I noticed the park brake arm was more or less seized on the left rear. I worked it a bit, and then my park brake worked perfect - 4 or 5 clicks, right on.
Then I noticed it isn't disengaging (brake smoke). I figured the ratcheting mechanism in the piston must be kaput.
So today I got a new (reman) caliper & bracket, installed it, and... still sticking. Cables are fine, the arm is moving fine. I'm now certain that the problem must be hydraulic, but what?
I would think that a master cylinder or booster would cause all the brakes to drag, or at least one axle worth, but that isn't the case. After a short spin on the freeway with little brake use, 3 of the brakes show 40 - 45C or so, and the sticking one shows 150C. (with an infrared thermometer).
During the brake job I noticed the left side was harder to turn in than the right, so I guess that could have been hydraulic back pressure somehow. Didn't seem to notice any damage to the hoses, they look pretty mint. master cylinder still?
I did the rear bearings at the same time. The bearing on the left was bone dry, probably from overheating in the past - I'm sure this POS stuck at some other time too, overheated and lost its grease. right side was fine but I figured might as well do them both.
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I was told today my brake lights were out. I checked and sure enough none of the 3 worked. I checked bulbs. Good. I checked all fuses. Good. I replaced brake switch on the pedal. Still no lights. What's next?
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I was fueling up my 06 F-250 yesterday and smelled hot brakes. I checked and found the right rear was really hot. After it cooled down I was able to drive on home and it was not too hot when I got here. I was towing a trailer with my tractor on it so I had a pretty good load. It was over 6 miles to my house with stop and go traffic and no hang up. What should I do to keep this from happening again? I don't drive this truck much but when I need it, I need it to be dependable. It has 99k on the clock and is a gas job.
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