Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Leak From The Rear At Drain Valve
Nov 8, 2015
After checking my fuel bowl today for contaminants, I put the lid back on and then noticed a leak from the rear at drain valve. I know, I already ordered the orings. It was doing one drip about every three seconds with the truck running. However, I turned the yellow thing a couple times and the leak stopped. Not leaking right now. Maybe it wasn't shut from previous owner.
Second question.....After stopping leak and after routing my fuel drain hose, I decided to give it a try. No luck. Nothing out or drain. Based on my first fuel filter change, it may be clogged up. So, do I run wire from the bottom up? Or do I run wire from top (bowl) down? Just so you know, sucked the bowl dry with a vacuum device before I reinstalled the filter.
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Just wondering if your fuel drain valve leaks at the knob when you are draining for water? I opened mine yesterday to drain it for the first time and fuel went EVERYWHERE!! Unlike the 6.4 that I was able to use a bottle to capture the fuel in, my 6.7 leaks around the knob and comes out the drain port. After some very colorful words, I got it drained and then closed. I mean, why put a drain port on it if it is going to come out around the know and soak you.
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I tried a steel with rubber insert washer, but it still leaks. I might have overtightened or something. It seemed good for a while. Who has a solution for this leak?
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I just changed the drain valve on the fuel filter bowl. All went well and no more leak, but now I am getting an "emission system" warning light.
After I replaced the valve, I filled the fuel bowl with diesel fuel. Was there any other priming that needed to be done (if any)? What the emission system warning light may mean?
2002 F250 7.3L 4x4.
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How common is it for the hpop to leak from the round piece behind the pump next to the drain bolt? Its on a 2000 f350 7.3.
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So I just put billowed up pipes and changed the broken O ring in the turbo housing. Put everything back together and checked for a boost leak with the home made tester. Boots and everything ARE OK. I can hear air escaping from what seems to be the valve cover or intake. I realize that I am charging my crank case as well but it still concerns me that air is escaping from somewhere besides the CCV. I read the following forum and this guy had the same issue and after he found out he was charging his crank case he was no longer worried. . . . .
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I have a very small fuel leak in my 2001 F-250. I was going to just let it go until I needed to do other work (since I get 20mpg city and 25mpg highway), but I went to a "new" inspection guy, and he flunked me. So now I have to fix it. And for all I know, my mpg and fifteen other things will break when I try to fix this.
Today I spent 4 hours in the heat putting in two new o-rings on the water separator valve. But the truck still leaks fuel. Climbed up on top of motor while it was running and looked, but I don't see where the fuel is leaking out.
Online research suggests to me that the next most-likely culprit is a steel fuel line that wears through from vibration and chafing. Is that correct?
This truck is so eaten up with rust (came from salt belt) that I bought a LOT of fuel line stuff a year or so ago, so that when things started falling apart from rust, I would have the parts on hand.
Now I'm wondering whether I already have the part I'm likely to need.
So far, I have bought:
1. Dorman Fuel Supply and Return Lines
2. Riff Raff Diesel High Pressure Crossover (HPx)
3. Riff Raff Diesel Fuel Rail Crossover (FRx)
So my question is, am I likely to have something to replace the part that commonly leaks on these trucks due to vibration/wear/chafing ... or will I still need to buy another part?
I'm thinking that one of the two lines in item #1 above is the problem child...
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So last year I pulled the motor and put a new pan on. Since then the oil has leaked from the rear lobe at the back of the pan. No oil leaks up top of engine. So I pulled the tranny and am going to put in a rear main. I also see a plate that bolts on the back of the motor and the bottom glues to the pan. I am concerned I did not glue the pan well enough in the lobe as only about 1.5 inches of the lobe has a small amount of grey rtv sticking out. How do I remove the aluminum mount on back of motor that the tranny bolts to? What seals the plate? Oring? Gasket?
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2001 7.3L 4x4 328,000 miles.... I have the crew cab? (rear doors open opposite to the front) anyhow whenever it rains the carpet under the rear seat is wet. Just wondered if this is a known issue, with a fix or just something random I'm going to need to chase down....
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Took the torque converter cover off and this is what I see. Before I took it off the cover looked oily. Prev I replaced the EGR valve and some other sensors and there was oil on top of the engine. Does this look like a rear main seal or oil dripping from the top of the engine?
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I broke my radiator drain plug got a replacement but how does the stock one come out? Is there a clip or something?
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Have a 2015 King Ranch with 72k miles. I noticed today a small drip of coolant coming from the corner of the radiator near the drain valve.
The truck is deleted however before it was deleted I did purchase an extended warranty through Flood Ford. What are the chances they will deny a warranty claim on this because of the dpf and egr delete?
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My fuel bowel drain valve is leaking again. I plan to do the hutch mod in the next month or so. Have the kit already. So I can't do the fuel bowel delete yet. it seems one of the mount holes for the drain Valve is stripped. The top rh screw won't snug up. I swapped out the orings and it still leaks. I'm sure it's from that screw. So I'm thinking about a flange bolt and an oring from the inside of the fuel bowel. It's going to be a temporary fix.
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Here is what's going on. A few days ago I noticed my oil pressure gauge drop and come back up as I was shifting from reverse to drive. Then a few days later on my way home from work I noticed that when the truck was warmed up and I was stopped at idle the oil pressure gauge would drop to zero and the oil pressure light would come on.. Once I gave it throttle the pressure gauge would go back to normal. After researching for the night the next morning I started the truck cold (around 35 degrees) and watched the oil pressure gauge. It was fine until the temperature came up then once I hit the brake to stop the high idle the gauge dropped to 0 and the oil pressure light came on. If I gave it any throttle the oil pressure would come up to normal but soon as I let off the pressure would drop off again.
I drained the oil, removed the oil cooler, and checked the oil pressure regulator to find it in normal operating condition. My new orings and gaskets won't be here until Monday so I cleaned up for the day. When picking up the oil drain plug I noticed quite a bit of metal shavings on it. I cut open the oil filter and found more shavings in it. Not a bunch but a few in every opening. I have read about a lot of issues where piston cooling jets fall off and cause my issues. I tried hitting the oil pan with a dead blow hammer and listening for the jet but don't hear it. This is the first time I have changed the oil since buying the truck and am wondering if it was found the last time the oil was changed and the reason for them selling the truck. I'm going to put a bore scope through the oil drain plug today and look for the piston cooling jets or anything not normal. Then when the oil cooler gaskets get here I plan to install them and a mechanical oil pressure gauge. To see what the pressure really is.
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I am currently doing my injectors. Just a quick question. I was trying to get the fuel rail drain plug out but it stripped, actually not on the driver side stripped. I know there is the drain plug on the back of the cylinder. If I drain that and turn the crank over by hand will that drain all the oil and fuel that has drained into the cylinder? I'm really not trying to bend a rod when I turn this thing over. It's A 2001 7.3
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Had the ole factory fuel separator/bowl drain start leaking on me about a month back. So i ordered and installed a new one, issue fixed. Well last night the fuel leak started again, I looked everywhere and i cant see anywhere else it may be leaking at. I felt the underside of said piece and it didn't feel wet, but the valley is full of fuel.
I got in there and tightened the 4 bolts down some more, they were tight but i got a some turns on em and am hoping i either didn't tighten it down enough or they maybe backed out some. Now just gotta see if that solves the problem, again.... the replacement is a doorman, the o-rings were bigger/thicker than the factory orings on the old part, of which the o-rings were shot.
Like I said once i replaced the part the leak stopped for 3 weeks until last night. If the tightening of the bolts doesn't solve it where should I look next? I have an FRX mod but i checked all that and its dry as a bone around all the fittings by the bowl and the heads. No indications of leaks anywhere around any of the FRX assembly.
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After running highway speed then stopping, the EBP valve is partially closing as you accelerate back up to speed. You can hear it in the sound of the motor, and you can see it on EGT's, which are rising quickly. This happens briefly then corrects. We unplugged the EBP sensor and the problem continued. Tube is clear.
If I monitor the EBP sensor, what values should I see if it is functioning properly?
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If I leave my truck sit for a couple of days, the batteries are noticeably weaker. It's fine overnight, but two nights and it's slow to crank. Three and it won't start without charging the batteries. I checked for a drain last night and found that it was drawing 1.2 amps.
That seems like a lot, no?
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I just had my turbo and the EBPV on the pedestal rebuilt. Now I need to put it back into the truck. What is the procedure, if any, to adjust the EBPV? I only use the truck to haul a 5th wheel RV and the performance chip closes the EBP valve when going down steep hills -( EXHAUST BRAKE)
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Iv heard a few things about changing the valve body. I tow a trailer so was wondering on pros and cons of changing this. And also what brands are recommended.
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doing injectors and pulled the valve cover, and noticed its not as clean as i expected. in the oil on top of injectors i noticed its got some grit in it. this cant be good and not sure how this debris got in there as i always change oil and air filter regularly( unless previous owner neglected). is there a safe way to clean this? Is this a normal find for you guys that have done injectors?
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