Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Lack Of Power?
Oct 17, 2016
Picked up a second 7.3, just finished installing the new transmission last night, took it on a drive last night, everything was fine.
Went to bring it home last night- and found myself unable to maintain 50-55mph on back roads at 3500 rpm.
At first it almost seemed like I wasn't getting 3rd/4th gear, but upon taking it for a spin with torque pro, I am getting all gears, overdrive works, TC locks- all appears good there. Trans is getting really hot- but I believe I messed up the bypass lines or the bypass valve is not opening correctly- not the biggest concern.
I let the truck cool to more normal operating temps, took it for a spin, same story. I top out flooring it at about 55mph. No fault codes other than my faulty glow plug module. Everything I'm monitoring on torquepro looks fine with the exception of boost. When I floor my other 7.3, I get 15-20 psi, this, I get like.. 4. Unplugged MAP, nothing changed.
Turbo shot? Glogged pipes? These are my first initial thoughts. Let me know if I'm going in the right direction here, I can rebuild a gas motor in my sleep, but diesels are a newer animal to me, I've only had them about 2 months.
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My issue I'm having - 2002 F350 7.3L has an 8 inch bds lift with 37/13.50 tires. I realize these tires are big but... while driving 100kms/hr or 60 miles per hour and I hit the gas the truck barely wants to move (without pulling a load). Thought maybe a turbo but I have no mechanical skills so here I am!
2nd issue, there's a bullydog chip in that truck when I bought it. he said he always ran it on extreme. I found it puffs way to much black when on extreme and on performance it seems a lot better so that's where I have it?.
3rd issue, the transmission gauge on the dash goes into red when climbing up hills ( I live in the rocky mountains so a lot!) but the bullydog chip says the tranny is only at its hottest 140C? I don't believe that's to hot but I do believe my truck is derating a little while the tranny gauge on the dash is in the red? is there any quick fixes out there for these issues.
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Long story short, when going up hill or any incline for the matter it feels like it's struggling and lugging, blowing carbon everywhere. It's an automatic so I yeah can downshift sometimes but even turning overdrive off doesn't work in a lot situations. My EGTs are way too high and I'm not about to tow my project car to OKC unless I get this figured out. I live around Salt Lake City so towing can be hard up surrounding passes. Just cruising to park city at 70mph on I80 up a pretty good incline my EGTs were 1,000. Just driving around the city, some hills I see 700-800 when I'm going 35mph.
At stop lights I'm seeing 400 at idle. My probe on the pyro is going bad starting to flutter but even if I fix that I'm still having issues up hills. Boost is good, up-pipes don't appear to be leaking but fuel pressure is a little low @56 and I know it's not the fpr because I just messed with that yesterday, put a new poppet and oring in, I haven't checked the fuel pump yet or dropped the tank either. If it is in fact fuel pressure related, does it make sense for me to see smoke coming out, wouldn't that indicate too much fuel? I'm lost, it's driving unloaded like I'm pulling an anchor.
Regardless of which spring I put in the frx I get 56psi, even with the black one I may see 58psi but even with 58psi it was still lugging it's butt off up hills and making that terrible drone sound like F you down shift me now.
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I have a 2002 F350 4wd with the 7.3. I was driving the truck and all of a sudden it was running like crap. the engine light was on. after a minute or so the engine light goes off and the truck is running fine. then again starts running like crap. I am close to the house so I limp it home. runs like crap.... will barley climb small hills. engine light is on. get home turn it off... next day... starts up and runs great for 10 - 15 min. engine light comes back on... runs like crap.... my neighbor says "It's the crank position sensor" I replace it.... runs great for a month.... now it's doing the same thing......
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I have a 2001 7.3 with 243k. I think the injectors are shot but other people including a local mechanic say it's not the injectors. What the truck does is smoke white. Sometimes little puffs when accelerating. Sometimes clouds that make the people behind you drop back a 100 feet. I have a ts6 on the truck and that alone with the 243k miles is enough to think its bad injectors. It smoke white. The exhaust is moist to the touch with soot built up like crazy. It doesn't really smell sweet and it's not really blue at all. It's getting horrible mpg. And lacks power. I don't have a high enough psi gauge to test compression. All arrows pointing to injectors?
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I have a 2003 with 150k miles. My 6.0 has black smoke and can barely crawl up a hill. Dealership is 30 days out for an appt. Air filter, oil change, alternator, and batteries are new. I removed the EGR valve and cleaned, but the valve seat is not perfect. I can see 20 to 30 mil gap around half of the seat. Is this ok or will that little gap cause this?
Hoses all look good. No alarm lights. I have no diagnostic tool but I can use a meter well. It did have an airbag light but I found the fuse missing and replaced it. The air filter alarm switch fell apart but I bypassed it till I get new part. No alarm lights now.
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I was driving and my truck started have lack of power, could barely get going on hills, tons of blue smoke (smelled like diesel) real rough idle. I unplugged injectors and found #5 made no difference. I replaced it today and I can't get it to start. It'll get to 2000+ psi 48v ficm, low pressure oil registers, ficm says its in sync. It will crank and blow a lot of black like its half firing or something. It has even crank to, until it tries to fire. From what I've been reading could it be the ficm? That one circuit is fried?
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While I'm cursing at highway speed everything is fine. But when u punch it it pass someone it's like I actually slow down, same from a red light. I've got a livewire programmer in it and this problem is somewhat new. It just seems to keep getting worse, I was going up a hill on the interstate this morning and at 2800 rpms I was actually slowing down. I'm not sure if the fuel pump is going out or if the transmission is slipping or what.
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Blown fuse causing a lack of power to the OBD port?
I just got my Kiwi2 BT OBD2 adapter and was hoping to start diagnosing my truck, but the adapter won't power on while connected to the truck.
I pulled and visually inspected fuse #12, I also verified power to the cigarette lighter plug and the accessory 12v power outlet.
The adapter powered up with no problem when I connected to a co-worker's Tacoma.
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I have a 2004 f350 with a 03 bullet proofed motor. The truck did not have any power and the turbo wouldn't support until I put a new vgt solenoid in and it ran great for about 3 miles... Stalled doing 65 kinda lacked power while accelerating but got up to speed quick. I pulled over and no start. It is running error code kam on pcm from disconnecting batteries but could this cause the stall and no start? Or should I be looking into icp sensor?
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Having some problems with an e-350 dying when in gear and rough idle. Truck starts up after it dies. Vehicle acts like it is starving for fuel. I have check fuel pressure after fuel pump and getting 55psi. High oil pressure pump with in normal ranges. Cleaned and checked egr and it was in the closed position. Fuel filters have been changed. Injector buzz test ok.
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My 2007 6.0 has a really rough (almost 'miss') during cold start up. After 5 seconds or so, it smooths back out and sounds normal. Until gauge reaches normal operating temp - there is a surge/lack of power during light acceleration. I also hear a frequent compressor coming on and running for a while which I am contributing to a possible vacuum leak. Maintenance is always done on time and I've already had a few costly repairs (both internally as well as externally) on the engine. I usually always wait for the glow-plug indicator to turn off before cranking the engine and let it idle for 5-10 minutes prior to driving it. Once the vehicle climbs to normal temp. everything seems to be fine but the compressor still comes back on every so often.IS it worth simply replacing the vacuum canister located behind the passenger side battery - or should I find someone to hook up a diagnostic unit first?
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I have a 2006 F250 6.0 Amarillo Edition. 133,000 When I bought the truck it was a theft recovery vehicle where the turbo, injectors, FICM and wiring harness were stolen. The company I bought it from replaced the injectors, wiring harness-new, and a used FICM, and turbo. Also has EGR delete and SCT tuner with basic tunes. I believe the SCT was put on to mask another problem. No dealer would spend that kind of money to sell a truck unless something was wrong. The truck would accelerate some with the tuner but shift the tires so hard it would bark them. I removed the tuner and went back to stock program.
The truck will barely move and takes a long time to accelerate under a load. In park and neutral it is fine. A friend has a ford diagnostic program on his computer and says the readings were all good except EBP was a little high. Removed exhaust and air intake to verify no restrictions. Turbo sounded like the vanes might be sticking so I replaced the turbo and VGT solenoid. Now truck feels like its trying to make more boost but not transferring power to the engine. Have blown the silicone hose off twice now during testing. Checked the EBP sensor and tube and only thing I see is a little carbon buildup inside the sensor. What else to check. I'm new when it comes to diesels.
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I am still failing to appropriately diagnose the problem(s) with my '03 Ford E-350 7.3L Powerstroke. This van has only 69,000 miles on it. A week or two back (just a few days back in work time) it suddenly went from running perfectly smooth, clean and wonderful to this:
- Zero power. Putting the van in gear and flooring the engine causes lots more smoke not nearly any rev of the engine and just a crawl forward.
- Lots of smoke out the back exhaust, whitish. I cannot discern wether it smells like diesel or oil (because I'm ignorant here), but the smell is very strong.
- After warming up and idling ~ 15 min I check under the coolant cap and see no signs of bubbling or disruption (from opening the cap in the coolant tank).
- After warming up there are no warning lights visible on the dash, and I don't have a computer to read codes (if there are any to read).
- I replaced the turbo up-pipes which had a visible leak previously. This did not hurt the symptoms, though no more visual leaks under the dog house.
- I thought maybe I put gasoline instead of diesel in the truck, not so.
- To do the above test I had to use the fuel pump to get gas out the tank to test. I hijacked the fuel pump output and turned the car on a few times to get gas out to a tank. The pump seemed to work just fine.
This was all very sudden which is perplexing, and, in use, the van was previously an ambulette and in my few miles with it (maybe 200-300 only) use was extremely light for such an engine/van, just driving around doing errands. I am not sure if this is relevant (no one has suggested so, yet) but before all this happened I uninstalled the rear HVAC that came with the van when I bought it. The AC lines were sealed under the hood. The coolant line was returned at the doghouse (you can see this at the beginning of the video).
At the moment the van has no power to go anywhere. I have not yet checked the CPS or IPC sensors, and understand this might be the next route in standard troubleshooting?
2003 Ford E 350 7.3L Trouble - YouTube....
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Last November I forgot to plug my truck in and it got down to 0, my girlfriend tried unsuccessfully to jump start it. When I got home I jumped it and got it running. I took it down to a heated shop to troubleshoot the glow plug circuit. I discovered it was not getting 12v to the glow plug relay. Also I started it and tried to back it up in the shop, when put in reverse it killed the engine, not lugged it down it was like you shut the switch off.
Also I discovered if you turn the lights on it kills the engine immediately. It will not crank with the lights on either. So far I have replaced the computer,ignition switch,batteries, and cam positioning sensor. Now comes the weird part!! I decided to get it running and pull the bulbs out of the back up lights I pulled the drivers bulb first then the passengers side bulb. When I pulled the passengers side bulb it killed the engine.
It is not my daily driver so it still sits in my shop. I have a hunch it's a ground issue but I've checked and cleaned up all the grounds I can find and it still has the problem.
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Well, since I replaced the MAP hose a few weeks ago the old girl has been running fine. Until yesterday. I was leaving work and she had low boost, less than 10PSI, and as I passed by a parked tractor trailer I could hear the sound of high pressure air escaping because I had my window rolled down.
So today I checked it out. I found three possible leaks spots, BUT no "smoking gun". Take a look at the pics. The damage you are seeing is on the outside of the hot side boot at the turbo and the bottom of the cold side CAC tube. The cracks don't appear to penetrate to the inside. Could these still be possible leak sites? IDK.
I'm going to order replacements anyway. Ford wants WAY to much for these parts. I checked the MAP hose and it is just like new from several weeks ago. Also, I inspected the inter-cooler as best that I can without removing it. I don't see any issues with the tanks or the tank-to-core mounting. It all looks normal. If it does fail where does it normally fail at?
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I have a 2003, 4.6 F-150 with 201,500 miles
I am having some A/C issues. It's just too hot out there.
#1 The truck has a lack of power when I have the A/C on. It feels like it wants to stall out in the lower RPM's. I loose power when I go 65mph+. The truck actually stalled on me yesterday in the parking lot. I turned off the A/C and it ran fine.
#2 I have to go over a 5000ft pass daily, I turn off the A/C when I go over it. Below the pass, the A/C doesn't work well and it's not as cold. But when I get over the pass, the A/C turns very cold. The pass is like a 3-4 mile stretch.
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I am working on a 97 4.6 with 146k for a friend. It idles rough and seems to lack power (then again a 4.6 lacks power )
Has New:
plugs
wires
coil packs
fuel filter
sea foam intake
sea foam fuel
I have checked:
proper egr function
vacuum leaks
cleaned IAC
steady 17-18 in vac
clean air filter
cats do not seem to be getting too hot.
no codes
KOEO test ok
KOER test ok
The plugs worked some. Dirty MAF, clogged cats??
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I've been having issue with my truck lacking boost over the past month or so. The psi levels are normal in the morning when I start it up cold, the problem almost always occurs at start-up when the truck is somewhat warm and has been sitting for an hour or more after use. I've had boost levels at idle from -0.14psi to -0.56psi and as low as -1.2psi when driving as the problem is occurring, but it eventually kicks on and goes to normal levels after several minutes of driving. After originally taking the truck to a local diesel mechanic I was told it had EGR codes and they recommended installing an SCT tuner and cleaning the EGR valve to solve the problem. I had them install an SCT 5015 tuner and clean the valve but I've still been having the problems with boost.
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I have a 2001 ford 7.3l powerstroke diesel. When I first noticed the problem I was towing a trailer going up a grade and got into the throttle almost to the floor and noticed a loss of power and the service engine soon light flashing extremely rapidly a few times and never came back on. I made it home, still lacking power but not running rough. I drove the truck to work the next day and the truck was running rougher and loosing power. It ran great through lower RPM's but seemed to trip as soon as you gave it over half throttle. eventually the truck wouldn't run right at all and lacked complete power. It idled rough as well. My mechanic threw the computer on it and it said injector pressure reading too high or too low.
I was told to replace the IPR on the HPOP and I did. (I also replaced the fuel filter and changed the oil). After replacing the IPR it ran great, had full power! then it began to slowly die like it did before until it sounded like it was running off 4 cylinders again. I pulled the ipr out, cleaned it and changed the oil again. It seemed to clear it up for an hour and ran great but then began ran rough again. I also replaced the CPS sensor. I feel like its not getting enough fuel or something, im just wondering if it could be the ICP or the lift pump. There is no check engine light at all. Its just got me stumped because cleaning the IPR clears everything up.... temporarily.
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Ok so the saga is continuing, not sure if its because enigma hates this mod or if I shorted something out when I was cutting the wires and mistakenly touched the ends together (protected terminal ends) some how or the monitor piece is just old and the fact that it has been my previous truck and this truck for a total combined 8+ years causing this conundrum....anyways the gauge seems to work (yay?) but it looks to read only "8"DC V?? but I know the power port (in dash) works as expected....so I am a bit lost here....one of the digits does look to be faded out as if the device perhaps is going bad and needs replacement....
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