Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Intermittently Missing While Idling / Driving?
Jun 11, 2017
I have a 99 f450 with a 7.3. Here lately it has been "missing" when driving or idling, but only every now and then. When driving down the road it will start bucking and boiling black smoke out then the ses light will come on and like turning a switch everything clears up and it acts and drives normal.
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I have a 2002 f350 dually with a 7.3 and 197k. At 186k it died while driving and I had it towed home. As soon as the tow truck dropped it the truck fired right up like nothing was wrong. Then it died again 2 days later. I replaced the cps, but the fix was replacing the icp and pigtail. Now it is doing the same thing again. It died on my wife while driving yesterday, i had it towed to the dealership I work at and it started and ran for about 2 hours with no issues. I hooked up the factory IDS and had a diesel tech look at it with me. The oil pressure, injector circuit and injectors, and IPR all look good. The batteries were a little weak so i replaced both of them. I drove it home yesterday, about 10 miles, and drove it around town today. Then i tried to jump start my 96 bronco and after about 10 minutes of running it sort of hick uped then 5 minutes later it died and would not start. I let it set for 30 minutes and it started and died after about a minute.
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My wife stopped for gas at a Circle K, about two days later this Sienna started idling rough and missing. I put some Seafoam in it and it cleared up. About one week later, she gets gas again, at another Circle k,about two blocks from the other one. Again, the next day she comes home from work complaining of the van running rough. I took it out and it drove fine. Whenever this happens the Check Engine light comes on, so I ran a code reader on it and it tells me, "Miss detected on cylinder 3".
So I checked all the plug wires, took out the plug (which I had just changed back in Oct.) and checked it, it looked fine. I thought maybe it could be the coil, so I switched the coil to see if I got the same code reading on a different cylinder. I unhooked the battery to clear the code after switching the coils, started it up and still got the rough idle and code. I turned it off (the van) and go in the house, I come back out and start it and it's running fine. I go to the store and all is well, go inside the store for maybe 45 minutes, come back out and start it up, I get the rough idle and missing.
I ran the code reader on it again and cleared the code, then restarted it and it was running fine again. Whatever it is, it has something to do with starting the engine (a 3.1L). One time it will start up and drive fine, the next time it starts the rough idling and missing. I figured if it was the coil and I switched them and got the same code on a different cylinder I'd narrow it down, but so far it has been running normally.
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2000 F250, 7.3, 170K, running rough, knocking loudly, missing, shaking, no power to get up driveway, intermittent, no codes spit out at all. No smoke visible, no leaks visible, New fuel filter, air filter, update cam sensor, new fuel rail lift pump, new uvc harness, new glow plug relay.
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1994 f250 7.3 turbo problem.. runs great on the level.. Cruises 65 no problem.. We have an 8% grade coming from town and half way up it starts cutting out and sounds like a jack brake under the hood and loses power.. Once over the top it clears out and runs fine again.... I just changed the fuel filters but no luck... I have been wrenching on cars all my life but no diesels..
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My 02 excursion is missing at idle and jars the whole truck around going approx 50mph feels like good amount of power loss but still pushing 30psi boost, just got autoenginuity all injectors buzz fine on the test, contribution test show balance fault in cylinders 1&8, should I look for o-rings to be bad, uvch, cups cracked or what ----- turbo fine, hpop great condition, new IPR, new fuel pump and hutch mod, about. 250k miles on truck nothing else major showed up on ae.
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I have a 2002 7.3l with 229k miles. So I am having a big problem now missing oil! My reservoir is empty and my dip stick is reading low, and i just put 16 quarts in yesterday with the new filter! im having a long start issue obviously because i don't have any oil supply! just drove the truck today, ran great been having this issue for the past week. here are the details. i came up from Texas after installing joeys t500 pump, when i arrived to California there was oil everywhere! my pump that joey rebuilt had an issue so he sent me another and bam! runs great no probs, now after about to weeks and about 15 degree temp drop i get hard starting. first time instead of a 2 second start up it took 9 seconds, now it takes anywhere from 9-20 seconds to start! so after my drive today i let it sit for about 3 hours seeing if maybe i had air in the lines from the res not being full, well now i cant get a start at all my res is empty and my dipstick shows little oil, i just replaced the icp. ipr, and eot when i put the first pump in, could this be the lpop?
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I have been having a problem for a while now where my truck will miss/buck at WOT. This only happens at higher RPM's. From a standing start 0-60 it is fine. However when I downshift full throttle from about 50 MPH it initially goes, but then it will miss/buck consistently until I back off the throttle.
I have so far replaced the CPS, re torqued injectors, checked valve cover harnesses and fuel pressure stays in between 64-58 full throttle. No codes show up.
My truck runs great except as I described above. I would think an injector or two are bad, but the truck runs and idles great. My initial guess was that it was a fuel pressure issue, but fuel pressure holds strong. Could it be air in the fuel?
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2001 193K miles. Has a miss, like starving for fuel. Starts fine and it will clear out at higher RPM, 1800 and up. idles...
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I have a 2001 7.3 that almost has everything practically brand new... new hpop, water pump, uvch, gpr, glow plugs, icp sensor, ipr sensor, cps and new turbo pedestal that was leaking oil, well now my truck has a cold start to where it has to be plugged in to start and when it finally does it smokes white pretty bad, misses and sounds like it's jumping around under the hood up until it warms up and revs fine with less white smoke but still a miss!!
Compression on test has been done, and good, fuel pressure is good, but the buzz test when cold shows 123457 muffled and quite and when the truck is warm only 3 and 4 are still muffled and quite? Injectors sticking?? Or just need New injectors!
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My feed truck (2001 ext cab 4x4 7.3 198k) had a cold starting issue I fixed with new gp relay. Now I noticed when it gets down below 30 degrees it has a cylinder miss until motor warms up. I don't doubt injectors are in my future. I was wondering though if that is common for worn injectors or if maybe something else has gone haywire and how long can I run it like that before something else tears up? after about 7-10 min the miss goes away and I don't notice it. I would like to get through the winter before messing with it or having injectors put in it...
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My truck was shuddering in od. So as I last effort thinking it might be injectors I pulled all of them and replaced all of the orings and valve cover harnesses. After all of this was done seemed to do nothing at all. Now a new problem has surfaced. It's having idle problems. It will now idle at 780-850 instead of 650-700rmps. Also on deceleration it will miss pretty bad. Checked all of my injectors again all connections are good and all of the injectors are tight. Not burning any oil. So I unplugged the icp and bam runs like a top perfect running engine. So I bought a new one and plugged it in and itake doing the same thing. So what is going on! Also it was throwing a random check engine light but wouldn't bring a code up I'm completely lost....
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2002 F250 7.3L suddenly idling and running very rough, and doesn't have any power. Truck has been running perfect, it's my daily driver, and just put a couple hundred miles on it yesterday with no problems. I had been having some transmission issues when I tow heavy so I bought a new transmission yesterday. This morning I pulled the truck into my garage to change the transmission. Again truck ran fine, no signs of any issues before the trans swap. I changed out the transmission, which included unhooking the trans wiring harness from all the various sensors, and unbolting the starter.
I didn't mess with anything in the engine bay except for unhooking the batteries. I had also repaired the overdrive button wires, as they had been pinched in the steering column and the button wasn't working. When I got everything hooked back up I cranked it up to get the trans fluid flowing through the transmission, it started right up and idled good. I had it running for a few minutes and it was beginning to make a little more noise than usual. When I started to back out of the garage it was getting pretty rough, almost like it was running out of diesel. I put it in neutral and gave it some throttle and noticed I was getting white smoke out of the exhaust and could smell diesel pretty strong.
I checked my injector resistance at the valve covers and got around 4 ohms +/- on all of the injectors. I rechecked all of the clips and harness that I had messed with. I took a look at the ICP sensor and it has oil in the connector which I know can cause a rough running condition in some cases. It looks like it has had oil on it for a while. I unhooked the batteries again for about 20 minutes to try and reset anything that may have messed up. I checked a bunch of connections under the hood to see if anything was unhooked or loose.
I also cleaned up the connector on the ICP sensor. I started the truck back up and it idled perfect so I pulled it back out of the garage and headed down the driveway. It almost immediately started running rough again and barely had the power to go up a small hill. I pulled back in and tried unplugging the ICP while it was running, which made a slight difference in the idle but still very rough. I plugged it back in and the idle progressively got worse until it was chugging really bad. I shut it off after that and haven't messed with it again.
What might have happened? Could it be a bad sensor or transmission position sensor in the new trans? Is it just coincidence that this happened with a transmission swap? I am going to get a new ICP, but if there is anything else I can try/check before I can pick up the ICP on Monday let me know.
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2003 7.3, AC compressor clicks like crazy. Can he hear outside the vehicle while idling?
The round disc on the front of it is what is making the noise.
The AC used to work awesome but now only blows cool air for about 10 minutes then turns lukewarm.
Is the clutch on my compressor bad? I have heard they can be adjusted, but not sure how.
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I purchased a 2000 7.3 dually 4x4 and the driver side battery is missing with the cables snipped.
I noticed the headlights do not function, neither do the brights, the air does not blow. Is this related to the missing battery? Someone said they are on same circuit and dont do separate tasks.
Still starts runs drives fine...
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Just picked up a 99 F250 7.3 Stroker, it had sat for two years in a warehouse, the truck had just had reman injectors put in right before it was parked. We fired it up, and it was missing, and smoking a lot (light blue, almost white) I checked the oil filler cap, and no water on it, after it ran for a while, it stopped. Shut it down, went and got my trailer ready to load the truck, fired it up, and no smoke to speak of, by the time I got it to my trailer, still no smoke.
I revved it against the governor a few times, hoping to clear the miss (figured may have been trash, or a sticky injector from sitting so long) It is turned up pretty good, as it came with a Superchip Super Tuner. It seems to hit on all eight above 2500 RPM or so. Brought it home, and took it out on the road, it seems to only miss under 2500 RPM or so. I took of from a dead stop, then got on it hard at about 15 to 20 MPH, it took of nice, then all of a sudden, the tach started climbing like the trans was slipping, looked in the mirror, and the tires were smoking, guess they broke loose when the boost came in!
I let it idle and warm up for a good half hour and noticed a lot of pure white smoke coming from the exhaust, went back to it and it was steam, I took the oil filler cap off, and there was a lot of steam coming out of there, pulled the dipstick, more steam, I then noticed the degas bottle was low, I topped it off, and got in the truck, and revved it a few times, then held it at 2500 RPM for about a minute, It started blowing water out from under the degas bottle cap. I called the guy I got it from, and he did NOT put new injector sleeves in when he did the injectors, I don't see any oil in the water, but there is water getting on the oil filler cap now! Does it sound like a head gasket, or an injector sleeve?
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Lately I have been having problems loosing power. Truck wants to miss mostly going up hill and runs sluggish I'll pull off the road and let it idle for a minute and it will run fine. And it is only occasionally some days it don't happen at all and other days it happens quit often. New fuel filter, oil is good, had it on the scanner and isn't throwing any codes. Around 230k miles newer injectors.
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1999 F250 7.3 .. The truck seems to idle fine and and runs smooth all the way up top cruising speed, but when it levels out at say 65mph then it starts missing and jumping. I can ease into the throttle a little and it smooths out up until it levels out again.
I have the Vgate Elm and Car Guage Pro and a couple of other apps and the only DTCs I'm getting anymore are:
P0541 Intake Air Heater Circuit Low
P0640 Intake Air Heater Control Circuit
But from what I've read, neither of those should cause this issue.
Buzz test sounds good.
Cylinder Contribution test throws code for #4 Cylinder
I'm trying to do everything possible before throwing an injector in it.
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I have a '99 F250 SD 7.3 & im going on a trip next weekend so I thought I'd pull the exhaust pressure sensor & clean the tube in an attempt to get better mileage. Found the sensor & unplugged it. Went to the manifold & started removing the tube when it fell off. 6" from the manifold it's broke & the rest is completely missing.
Autozone doesn't carry this tube so, how important is this sensor?
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I ran out and test drove a new to me 2001 F350 7.3L tonight. Everything seemed good, until I got back from the test drive. I pulled in and was sitting there with it idling. It seemed to idle fine, then a very small miss and very small shimmy then idle fine again; then another small miss and another shimmy. It continued like clockwork. Every time it seemed to miss and shimmy, the RPM would drop just a little, but not much. Does an ICP sensor sound like the problem, or maybe something more serious? 2001 F350 7.3L with 235,733 miles new trans, turbo replaced at 150,000 something miles. No blow by. Idled fine before driving, also drove fine. It doesn't seem to surge when idling, just kind stalls and shimmys for a split second then idles fine for a few seconds.
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I have looked through a ton of threads to see if I can find one similar to my problem but have not. I have stock setup but had a dealer installed anti-theft device. The first time it would not crank, it was like the the anti-theft plug was missing so I checked out the key, tried the spare and finally removed it all together. I checked all the fuses and swapped the Starter relay for another of the same part number.
I later sifted it into neutral assuming it was the P/N Switch and it started. This continued intermittent for several days but then Neutral wouldn't work. I got under the truck and pushed on the actuator rod for the transmission and it started again for a few days. If finally failed again and I had time to buy a replacement switch.
Once installed I verified I had back up lights in reverse but still no crank. I have since pulled off the starter and had it verified as good. Is there more to setting/adjusting the neutral switch or is there something I am missing before I tow it in?
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