Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Intermittent Idle Knock Heavy Use Dependent
May 27, 2015
My late 99 has 161K, I am the 2nd owner and bought from the Original owner. It is stock with no tunes. Auto/4wd.
It has had an intermittent idle knock and recently has gotten much louder recently when used heavily with towing for summer camping in the 7K range up steep hills. The knocking goes away above 12-1500 rpm. There is no noise when the engine is cold. It seems heavily temp/load/heavy use dependent. If driven lightly, the knock is quieter but still present. The trans was recently rebuilt and new billet converter installed, made no difference so it's not that it would appear.
I rec'd blackstone last week and the results are excellent. Running the cyl contribution test while hot in drive at idle reveals cyl 8 is running 4.9 to 5.4 Perdels. #3 is 2.2 to 2.8. 1,6,7 are 0. 2 is .6 and 5 is .4.... I haven't checked bolt torque yet. My question: Is #8 "fixable" potentially with bolt torque? Is it considered too far gone and should just be replaced?
View 14 Replies
Advertisement
Here's the deal. 99 Powerstroke out new injectors and orings. Did orings twice to make sure i didn't damage it. New turbo, new utvc gasket, new ipr, new fuel pump, I new complete engine wire harness. I pulled the injectors and ran in another truck no problem. New injector cups compression was all in the 300-375 range. Any cold start smokes like hell. Goes away when driving after the first time of hitting boost. Spits and shudders for a few seconds until boosting. Every time I stop it starts smoking again at idle. No power loss not using oil. Can't get a grasp on this smoking issue. When cold start I kill millions of mosquitos in a one-mile radius.
View 3 Replies
For the last couple months I've been messing with a P1118 code. Started a few months ago when I noticed my fuel mileage was down 1-2MPG. Also sometimes a rough seeming idle (hard to tell with the diesel). Then it threw a P1118, so I replaced the temp sensor under the turbo. The code went away for a while then came back, fuel mileage didn't change. So I replaced the temp sensor in the air filter box.
The code went away AND my fuel mileage seems to have come back to normal. Now, code thrown again. Search on P1118 hasn't been super useful. Seems like replacing the sensor under the turbo is the trick. Also seems to come up in combination with a bunch of other codes with battery problems. I suppose it's possible I have some sort of electrical gremlin. It throws the code on startup and stays on until I shut it off. Doesn't come on every time, is off more often than on.
View 2 Replies
I've got a 2002 F350 DRW 7.3 truck I'm having a little concern over. It started this summer, when under very heavy pulling I was getting a very noticeable vibration between 20 and 25 mph. I did not think much of it, as it only happened under extreme conditions.
Now I'm getting the vibration all the time, and it's started another band which is 40 to 45 mph. It's much worse if you are very light on the throttle, if you're full throttle it's much harder to notice.
Truck has 154,000 miles.
View 12 Replies
2002 F350 7.3, MANUAL transmission ZF6.
Bought this truck used for hauling an excavator, and after fixing damn-near everything engine/turbo/and-cooling-system-related ---- it's finally seeing some use.
Just recently started hauling 12,000lb payloads. When I accelerate hard in Low gear, and then shift into 1st and accelerate hard again, I feel the whole truck shuddering. It's like a shimmy-shaking vibration all through the vehicle.
It doesn't happen in higher gears, only when the following conditions are met...
1) Starting from a dead stop
2) 12,000lb payload (heavy)
3) Accelerating hard (Low, First gear)
I would also like to add that I experienced this shuddering vibration very intensely when I put the transfer case in 4wd LOW (front manual hubs left unlocked) and towed 14,000lb up a steep hill in 1st, 2nd, and then 3rd transmission gears.
^^^ By leaving front hubs unlocked and transfer case in 4wd LOW, I was effectively lowering my final drive ratio even more for extra pulling power in 2wd hill-climbing. I don't do this often, only when absolutely necessary. ^^^
I must also add that I do have slightly taller rims/tires than OEM ford WITH the original ford gearing (3.73) so I'm more like 3.51 final drive ratio.
02 F350 7.3l ZF6
View 14 Replies
I have had a 2000 f250 crew cab for little over a year now. Two previous times, after heavy rains, the cabin light would blink on and i would get a buzzing sound under the dash. I would solve the annoying buzzing sound by opening and closing the door. After a few times, it would work, but my clock and radio could go on without the key in the on position. The next time i used it, no problems... so i put that worry in the back of my mind.
This morning it rained really heavy, sideways type of rain. I opened the door and noticed a small puddle on the vinyl floors right where my left foot goes. OH,oh i thought, but the truck turned over and ran like normal. I picked up a heavy load of hickory in the bed and hopped back in and noticed my speedometer jumping from 0- 30 when I was going about 35. The OD light was blinking, but the transmission shifted normally. I got up to about 1700 rpm and the speedo was barely jumping at 53-55. I make another stop to unload the wood and go back home and i get an intermittent buzzing sound on the way home and no speedo. OD light would start blinking before i hit 2nd gear. I also noticed the odometer not working (speedo related, right?)
I got home and took the fuse relay cover off and found that if I would remove the #1 relay "plug" (black square box 5 prongs) that dreaded buzzing sound would go away, checked it out , plugged it back in, buzzing back on. The clock light still stays on and radio will turn on without the key. I think that water obviously leaked in over something electrical and i have been searching this and other forms for a couple of hours. I am within a couple of weeks of saving up enough to buy the gauges, exhaust and possible DP Tuner and now this happens?
View 14 Replies
Ok, my clutch has been giving me trouble for a little bit and I'm almost positive that I have a bent release fork. It also slips under heavy acceleration in 6th gear. I am planning on doing a clutch, compete with flywheel and release fork and a new rear main seal. My problem is, here within the last couple of days the trans would pop out of 4th gear if I was just coasting. It has been getting noisy over the last few weeks also. I'm no manual tyranny expert, but this is making me think I'm gonna need to have it rebuilt.
View 14 Replies
Yesterday I was coming back from town and as I was looking in p/s mirror changing lanes I noticed heavy white smoke. I only noticed this upon decel or coast. Once I rolled back into the throttle the white smoke would dimminish. I'm sure it was coolant from the smell. The truck (04 F250 CC 6.0) is now at the dealer for troubleshooting. I believe it to be a blown head gasket, but wouldn't that make it blow white smoke out the exhaust all the time? Maybe a cracked EGR cooler?
View 11 Replies
Today I noticed this burning smell under my hood and a bit of a engine knock on idle... It doesn't knock all the time tho ??
View 7 Replies
My truck 00' 7.3 255k is smoking white. It's not thick its more of a white haze. Sometimes it does it sometimes it doesn't. It has a 6637 intake, exhaust, and wicked wheel. No tuner or such. Im thinking either the turbo is going out or maybe a leaky injector? Just checked the turbo wheel and it has a little side to side play. On start up itll puff white then go away but then under heavy acceleration on occasion there is a haze of white then goes to haze of black. It also feels like the truck is lacking some power. There is no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. Not consuming oil or coolant. And there is no excessive pressure coming out of the oil fill.
View 8 Replies
I'm on the road and I pulled over for a pit stop so I don't have time for a search right now, but I noticed under heavy acceleration a turbo whine so high pitched it almost sounds like metal on metal. Is this normal and I just noticed it, a leak somewhere, or maybe indication of something worse? The truck seems to be running ok otherwise. It's an '02 w/7.3 and 220k miles.
View 3 Replies
So my truck a stock 2000 7.3 started smoking when I would start it up in the morning... figured it was a glow plug issue. Checked the relay it was good, checked the glow plugs found 2 were bad replaced them.
Thought I was done, well I started it up and took it for a drive. still smoked... thought no big deal I know some oil leaked into the cylinders doing the glow plugs.
Then it started rattling like a lift went out, no more smoke though because the truck was warm... shut it off at my buddies. Limped it "it actually still drives ok" 5 miles home.
From my research it sounds like an injector. I have tried a buzz test and they all sound the same.
View 2 Replies
I just replaced all 8 injectors in my 01 F550 with remans from FFD. I have noticed a constant knock at idle but truck runs great. Blowby has no pressure behind it, truck does not smoke. Does this sound like a problem unrelated to an injector?
It did not make this noise before replacing the injectors
[URL] .....
View 12 Replies
Over the past few week my truck has developed a knock once it has fully warmed up. At first I thought it was possibly injector knock and kind of got excited about the prospect of upgrading to larger injectors. Well, my short lived optimism came to an end today once I got ahold of my father's mechanics stethoscope. So today I let it fully warm up and like clock work the knock came back. After going over nearly every inch of the top end, nothing was producing what I was hearing.
So I crawled under the beast and located the source. Right where the bellhousing mates the the engine block is where the knock is definitely loudest. At first I thought it was louder in while in gear but today it didn't matter if it was in gear or not. I removed the bellhousing cover and inspected what I could see of the flexplate. Couldn't see and cracks or breaks but from what I see through google searches is that it cracks behind the spacer. Now my first thought is that it's the flexplate but I'm hoping more experienced people can tell me what they think.
[URL] ....
View 14 Replies
2000 F250 7.3L ZF 6spd 4x4 regular cab long bed 253k
DP F6 chip, 4" exhaust, WW2, EBV delete
I run 5w40 Rotella Synthetic. Oil was changed about 1,000 miles ago. I also added a quart of Hot Shot stiction eliminator. I use Power Service and Stanadyne lubricity in every tank. Fuel filter is new.(motorcraft)
For a month or so its been acting weird. I get a stumble/miss/stutter, at random, but mostly under hard acceleration and high rpm (specifically approx 2500-2800rpm). It will also do it on decel when I lift after accellerating . Recently, I noticed it is also idling roughly. The engine is shaking and it feels like a miss. When it does its "thing" it sounds like a single "knock". Occassionally, it sort of sounds like an injector "buzzing". I've been using the "stock" tune for the last few weeks, to minimize any chance of engine damage, as I have to drive it. Turning up the chip makes the problems more noticeable and happen at a lower rpm. The truck has plenty of power, and pulls hard, except for the "stutter". If I hold my foot in it to "push through" the initial stumble at 2500 or so, it will keep going a few hundred more rpm, and then really start bucking.
There are no meaningful codes. I DO have:
EBV related soft codes - makes sense since its deleted.
Overboost related codes- from turning the chip up - won't happen in stock setting
A soft code for the back pressure SENSOR. I have a new one and will be cleaning the tube when I get a chance. I unplugged the sensor and it made no difference in the miss issue.
I have recently done the following in pursuit of a solution to all this:
New IPR (autozone) valve and pigtail
New ICP (motorcraft) and pigtail ( sensor had oil in it)
New CMP and pigtail. (2 actually. First a standard pc139 for the obs, and currently a Napa echlin correct for '00) No change. Although it initially had the dreaded Ford small head light grey sensor and failed cct for #3 & 8. After the cps change, it passed cct.
Accellerator Pedal Position Sensor. It would not read any higher then 3.95v at wot, and only 0.50v at idle, so I installed a new one. After adjusting it a little, I have 0.76v at idle, and 4.02 at wot. Didn't affect the stumble issue, but it seemed to greatly improve/eliminate my parking lot speed "bucking".
I just did the UVCH's. The passenger side was pretty much unplugged. But they all looked good. No burnt, melted,or chafed wires anywhere. I probably could have just plugged it back in, but I changed both sides with new Motorcraft parts anyway. I did the gaskets and the uvch, but not the engine side harness/pigtail, as they looked ok. I also did the 0.50 mod as a preventative measure. After seeing the unplugged harness, I really thought this would be the end of the problem, but its not. Very frustrated.
As a side note, I was surprised to see that I have 8 AD injectors, and not an AE in cyl 8.
I have an old outdated snapon scanner. Its only good up to '99, but I am able to scan my 2000 as a '99. I think I'm missing some pids though.
I can do cct and buzz test, but no PERDEL readings.
As far as ICP, it idles at about 450psi, at approx 12% IPR dc. On a brief 2nd gear wot run, it will hit (and hold as long as I have road to stay in it) a little over 2900psi, at 41-42% IPR duty cycle. I did notice, during these near instantaneous stumble events, ICP would flutter on the scanner about 75-100psi. Its almost too quick to even see it.
View 14 Replies
I have a F350 that has intermittent power loss.
View 14 Replies
My 7.3 power steering is acting up. Feels like I am up against a rock. At slow speeds like parking lot maneuvering I struggle to turn wheel. Then all of a sudden I'll get power steering back and wheel will rapidly turn. Freaky.
Brake pressure is fine. They shutter pretty bad even with the new rotors I just put on but they have good pressure. But the steering is intermittent or no power steer.
I saw online to run engine at 2000 rpm and try steering but no change. Still no power steer. There is fluid in reservoir. There is fluid seeping up steering column from steering box. No clue if this is related or unrelated.
How to troubleshoot further. I hate throwing parts at problems before truly diagnosing. Also have pretty aggressive lurching during turns in four wheel drive. It's present on dirt road but worse on pavement. Don't know if this is related or not.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2000 Excursion. This weekend, I noticed some intermittent failure of the power steering where it seemed like the pump was not engaging and then would all of the sudden. Deciding to try to head off a failure, I got a reman unit from Oreilly and installed it this morning. It was fine when I tested, had good brakes and went locked to lock quietly without fuss. Let the house and within a mile, I lost steering and brake assist. I stopped and turned around, but what I am noticing is that at idle, I have no power steering, but when the RPM's are up, I do.
View 3 Replies
Intermittent loss of power (could be describe momentarily stuttering) with momentary illumination of the check engine soon light. Its only happened a couple of times. Maybe about a year ago (I changed the fuel filter after it occurred). It occurred again about a month ago and then again yesterday. About a month ago I had a friend with a scanner look at the codes and he said there was only one and it was for low fuel pressure. Its been maybe 5k since I changed the fuel filter.
The truck is driven intermittently, maybe 5k or 6k a year, and usually parked with a full tank of fuel. What areas I should look at to correct this? I got my stock 2001 F350 4x4 manual transmission in 2004 with about 157k miles. Today I've got about 228k miles.
View 6 Replies
I have an Excursion with 220k miles. I've owned the truck for 6+ years and had very few problems. I change my own oil and fuel filters, but beyond that I know next to nothing about the diesel motor. I do run a DP Tuner with the standard 80 hp program. And a 4" exhaust. Everything else is stock. I do keep it plugged it for the oil heater and the battery tender just about all the time now.
This latest issue started yesterday morning when my wife jumped in a cool truck to take the kids to the dentist (not warmed up but still 55 degrees ambient). A few miles down the road (35 mph max) the motor began stumbling and rocking and black smoke coming from the exhaust with reduced power. She pulled off and kept it running (very rough and rocking) and put it in park for a minute. When she put back in drive, it shifted heavily but the power was normal so she went on her way without any problems. The only report I got sounded like the motor was just cold and rough, so I thought nothing more of it.
Yesterday evening we drove it about 70 miles on the highway (72 mph max) with no issue at all, but when we continued on surface streets toward our destination (50 mph max) it did the same thing, but would not settle back down. I kid you not that it went through gallons of fuel the last 12 miles or so, just dumping black smoke out the exhaust. It felt to me like we were running 1/2 the motor, like the plugs weren't lit. Very rough and rocking and very little power (comparatively, at least). I had to switch to manually shifting the trans to get going and the shifts were much rougher than usual. Idle was low and rough but it never stalled. Behind me there was a huge smoke screen this entire time.
We made it to our destination and parked it. Did our thing and after 5 hours went out with finger crossed. Started right up and ran perfectly the entire 91 miles home. No motor or trans issues at all. Currently running 10/40 synthetic oil that I just changed about 2000 miles ago. Oil level is perfect. 3/4 tank of fuel with standard level of Diesel Kleen added. Fuel filter is less than 10k miles old. Temps yesterday were 65-70 on the drive down and 50-55 on the way back.
I jiggled all sorts of connectors this morning and didn't find anything loose.
View 14 Replies
Now that I have gotten my ScanGauge II to monitor all 4 egt sensor, I am wondering about temperatures while towing, especially how long to idle a hot engine after heavy towing.
I realize all 4 sensors are post turbo (and there is no chance I'm going to drill for an after market pre-turbo sensor). It seems the first one downstream will be the one to watch.
What temperature range we should look for before turning off the engine? IIRC, Ford recommends idling for 3 to 5 minutes, but watching the temp seems a bit more specific.
View 7 Replies
