Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Installed Transmission Now ABS Light On?
Oct 4, 2015
Picked up my truck from the local transmission shop yesterday and on the way home (less than 3 miles away), I noticed the ABS light was on. I turned around back to the shop but the guy behind the desk couldn't pull the codes (his mechanics smart with codes don't work Saturday). So I will head back tomorrow when his code-smart dude is back but was wondering is there anything they could have done during the tranny install to muck up the ABS system? Or do they need to do something because of the new transmission?
I checked the #15 5-amp fuse under the steering wheel but it looks good. Truck runs good to me and shifts fine in the 10 or so miles I drove it yesterday but I'm not savvy with transmissions or ABS.
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So just got a new pcm installed since i fried the last one anyway. I had a new trans installed almost two weeks ago factory 4r100 now i have a p0720 code. Id take it back to that dealer.
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Shut my truck off for about 15 minutes and wouldn't start back up. Installed new fuel filter. And gonna try changing cps. Torque says Rpm 180
Ipw. Bouncing between 600 - 3000 Hpop. 250 while cranking Voltage 10.9 while cranking. Ipr starts about 15% and slowly climbs to about 88%
Fuel pressure about 65%
Tried unplugging cps. Gonna check oil now though I check it every time I fill up and it never uses any.
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Title says it, I just installed my Hydra Chip, now my edge says it cant communicate with PCM. I have checked all the connections on the edge, all is good. I planned on just using the Edge only for gauges. Will it not work anymore now that I have a Hydra? If not I will just sell it and buy an Edge Insight, so long as that will work.
I think its the Edge EVO 2, its this one.
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How many gallon tanks were installed in the E99s?
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Put in my new S&B intake today and when I stomp on the gas I am getting a loud shuddering noise from the intake when I change gears. Also sounds like a squealing sound sometimes. Doesn't sound like other trucks that I have heard. What that could be?
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so got to work today, truck engine light comes on all foward motion stops. Just coasts and idles along. I have 280k on the orig stock trans. I also have dp tuner and did the valve body upgrade along with adding the 6.0 cooler hoping to extend the life of the trans. Reverse works. So i asume I am needinf a new trans. My options are Ford HDr4100 orig 4100, Or BTS built trans. I also pull a toy hauler as well. My question is If I order the BTS can I have a my local shop install it or does it need to be programmed at the dealer. If I get the HD from ford installed will I have to remove the dp tuner chip to get it programmed and also will i need another new valve body replacement.
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I test drove my truck yesterday for the first time with the newly rebuilt transmission. I was gentle with the right foot and all seemed well. Once out on the main road it shifted by itself into overdrive for the first time and immediately the O/D light started flashing. I drove it home and shut her off. I test drove it 2 more times leaving overdrive off, no issues. With a snap-on scanner hooked up I let it go into overdrive and O/D light started flashing again, not immediately maybe 5 seconds after shifting into O/D.
Codes are:
p1316 IDM codes detected
P0717 Turbine speed sensor circuit fault
P0715 Turbine speed sensor circuit fault
P0500 VSS fault
10 minutes ago was my last test, O/D flashes only after it has shifted into overdrive. I checked the transmission wire harness and all connections are tight, trans oil level is good & trans temp never went above 150. Could this be a faulty VSS?
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I bought this truck with a stock automatic transmission and 260k miles back in October expecting the transmission to be the first thing to go. Recently I had a transmission code, OD OFF light flashing, for the bad speed sensor which i got replaced. Then the OD OFF light started flashing after some hard driving when I would put into neutral or park so I took it back to the mechanic, Hanahan Truck and Auto in Sc. They looked into it and there wasn't any different code in the system but they noticed when you lay into it driving it slips some between 2nd and 3rd gears so that could cause the computer to put in a code.
They said usually a rebuild runs from $2k-2.5k and they also recommended a Jasper reman for roughly $2.8k which comes with a 100k mile 3yr warranty. So I figure replacing the transmission is probably the way to go. Any recommendations for a replacement. I've heard ATS and Sun Coast are decent options that I could build one. I'm looking to stay close to $3k. My truck is a 2000 F250 lariat 4x4 with 268k miles. I'm installing an S&B intake, 4" MBRP exhaust, and DP-Tuner's F6 chip when I get the transmission work done.
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Installed a 20'' light bar on my 2012 and when I turn on the Aux 1 uplifter switch my radio stations have static. This was not the case before the install. I have the hot wire tied into the Aux 1 (25amp) switch. Ground is run to drivers side battery ground. Do I need some kind of relay in line?
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Last year I did some major work on my 02. Painted it, new injectors, 38R, and once it was back together, the transmission went south in a month. Got a Ford reman HD4R100. Shortly after the install, when in reverse, the torque convertor would lock up when you stepped on the throttle. As soon as you let off the throttle, it would disengage. Thinking it was a tranny issue, got another one from Ford. This one has been in the truck for about 9 months. And it seemed fine until about a month ago. It started doing the torque convertor lockup thing in reverse like the last one, but not as often.
Then last weekend it did it every time I put it in reverse. Then yesterday, while pulling away from a traffic light, there was a loud bang, and lost power in the transmission. Once stopped, I found out it has manual 1st and 2nd, but nothing else. No drive, overdrive, or reverse. I personally believe something electrical led to these issues, and ultimately, the transmission failure. I know the truck is not stock, but I do not run it hard very much. When it went bang yesterday, I was not being hard on it. Where to look at what is causing this?
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I'll preface by saying, my technical know how ends with swapping out lights. I'm sure this is an easy fix, but not sure where to look first. I recently got a pair of smoked out taillights and 3rd brake light and installed the tails..................easy job. Finally climbed up on the back to swap out the 3rd.............lights worked before I disconnected. Connected the new one, no go, so figured, I bet bulbs are out. Plugged original back in, no lights. Figuring I tripped a fuse somewhere.................any tips finding the right fuse?
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What's the truth behind the deep pan automatic transmission pans? I hear they are supposed to carry a few extra quarts of transmission oil and result in lower transmission temps. I've also heard this is not true since the amount of fluid going through the transmission cooler over a period of time still remains the same and therefore will not provide any lower transmission temps.
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I let a small leak that I thought was engine oil go too long it appears before checking the transmission which had still been working ok. I added a whole quart of Lucas and then another quart of Mercon so the level was pretty low. What to do next as I am about to leave Alaska and go back down the highway. Is my ZF trashed now? Still seems to work fine. Or is there a seal somewhere that I can change?
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Transmission rebuild? I seen a few threads where people talk of it but no follow up. I've heard it takes special tools but then so does a lot of things we shadetree on our own....
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I've read a few things on the 4R100 and have a question.
My transmission stays in the OD off position until I hit 55 mph no matter the tune I am using and then will up shift to OD. It turns back off once I drop below 30 mph.
I was told when I bought the truck that it was a factory tow package. Is this a thing?
I would like an option to turn it off when I'm not towing or climbing a hill if I can.
Any way to modify it with a switch?
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My tranny is acting odd. I put in drive and seems to slip a lot in 1st, barely even move at some times. If I put it in 1st with the shifter it goes in and grabs then I can shift up to 2nd or drive and there aren't problems. It drives normally when not from dead stop.
Transmission has 50k miles on it since replacement. Fluid level is normal. I don't tow and drive it particularly hard. I will have to go back and look at miles since last fluid change. I should be right around 30k miles since last change.
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2001 7.3 auto with 188k miles. Supposed to have had a new tranny at 99k miles. Fluid nice and red with no smell.
Here's problem: during the 3rd shift (gear before overdrive), and between 40 and 50 mph, I get a small vibration in tranny. Seems to be just that shift. It's not noticeable if I run it a little harder on the shift (speed up). If I let it lag on the shift, the vibration is worst. All other gears seem ok.
Questions:
1. I believe I have a 4R100. It has a drain plug, but how do I confirm?
2. I have a couple different scan tools. Should I be getting codes if I have tranny problems? Or is there a scan PID I can check?
3. I was thinking of starting with fluid change. Since it probably hasn't been changed since 99k miles.
Last question: any detailed write on fluid change handy? That would include type of fluid, filter part number, etc?
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Running dual coolers? I just got a new transmission not too long ago and want it to last. Was looking at this mishimoto with fan. That way in the winter i can deactivate it and use it while towing or summer. Also the way I see it if I leave the stock cooler in place it's one less thing to mess with.
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I recently bought a 1999 F250 Super Duty 4x4 7.3 Powerstroke MT with 280,000 miles. The reverse is out and after reading several posts am I to understand that any ZF6 well interchange in it or is it year specific. Guess what my question should read "What year vehicles well the transmission interchange and that there isn't any difference between trucks that run this motor with MT except for the powertrain, like F250 F250 super duty F350 and so on. The second question is how hard would it be to fix the reverse myself. I do have some mechanical experience. Except for the reverse, the trucks run perfectly.
This is my first diesel truck . I'm also confused because it has an adjustable gauge mounted on the bottom of the dash that you can select the performance from. I was told it has a performance chip and that's what that was for. I was told by the man I bought it from that the truck had been bullet proof but I don't know a thing about diesel upgrades or what to look for if it has. Except for reverse, everything works. Low high 2x4 & 4x4. Got it because he had to pay the bail bonds man. Guess I got a deal on it I was told.
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As explained in the photo annotations, I can't figure out how to remove this line from the radiator so I can remove the radiator for cleaning.
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