IPR CF2 Byasss High Flow Coolant Filter Ford 6.0
Made for the 6.0, the biggest problem on the 7.3 might be finding real estate for the filter assembly.
One review refers to using it on a 7.3.
I am going to install a coolant filter on my 2004 6.0 E350 van. I have read threads about bypass filters and full flow filters and I started asking myself "Why use a bypass when I can filter all of the coolant?"
Is there any reason why someone should use a bypass filter? I bought the van used knowing I would eventually have to do most if not all of the 6.0 repairs. IPR sells a complete coolant filter.
I talked with the people at FICM repair and they suggested I do my research but leaned towards the IPR cooler. Ed spent a good 30 minutes on the phone answering all my questions and never asked if I wanted to buy anything. If anything, he was trying to stop me from throwing money at the van until I isolated what needs to be repaired.
I already bought the Sinister Kit and requested a return.
Well I was fueling the truck today and I opened to hood to check it out and noticed that there was no pressure in the cooling system by squeezing the upper hose. I did have a spare degas bottle cap and removed the old one slowly and replaced. I have been driving over 30 minutes and it is close to 100 degrees.
I then drove on down the road, the truck is not getting hot. I stopped to look at some running boards and the truck was running and then I came home and still no pressure, the truck is still running, I removed the cap and no pressure, I then removed the small hose going to the top of the degas tank and no coolant came out. I turned the truck off and disconnected the upper hose and some coolant did come out.
Is this normal? The truck runs just fine, just has me worried. I just bought the truck and the previous owner recently replaced the water pump, T-stat, hoses, etc. All parts were bought at O'Reilly. So everything looks good.
I had pretty much ruled out getting a bypass oil filter because I've read multiple times that the HEUI injectors of a 6.0 liter shears the oil regardless of filtration so that you shouldn't run extended oil change intervals even with the extra filtration. I'm wondering though if the cleaner oil would benefit the lifters and injectors within the regular oil change intervals, and if what I read before is correct about the shearing and not running extended oil change intervals. If I could run to say 7500 miles and it was better for the lifters and injectors than not running a bypass and changing oil at 5000 miles, then I might say it would justify it. I hear more and more about lifters in the 6.0 and want to everything I can to keep them operable.
View 7 RepliesI just replaced my factory oil cooler again, and my bypass oil filter came loose spraying 8 quarts of oil all over under the hood.
This is the second time it has done this. Both times my wife was driving so i don't know how it was running prior to this.
Now i think my oil cooler seal to the block is blown again! Just like the last time my bypass oil filter came loose.
Could this be a symptom of another problem?
Coolant flow seems to be not at its max output seems like it's blocked somewhere. Lots of pressure in bypass line of radiator after clamping of hose and releasing pressure of degas bottle?
View 11 RepliesI've read what little information I can find about making a glow plug bypass, but everything so far applies to trucks with glow plug relays. Since mine is an Excursion I have a GPCM instead of a relay. How I might accomplish this?
View 3 RepliesI have the 4r100 transmission how do I bypass the safety switch? Also what are your thoughts on starting the engine with the transmission out? I know to bolt the spacer plate to the engine.
View 7 RepliesThis weekend my friend and I plan on doing a coolant flush, new Mishimoto thermostat housing with high temp thermostat and install a Mishimoto coolant filter.
Truck currently has some unknown green coolant in it and Im going to replace it with Rotella ELC. I plan on doing a couple hose water flushes then follow with about 5 distilled water flushes. I've been reading about putting some Cascade in on first flush to dissolve any silicate goo that might be in there hanging out. I might give that a try. Im sure I can manage this part from all the stuff I read about doing flushes.
This is the part that looks like a little more work involved than the flush. Doing the thermostat kind of worries me because of the tight area in there to work with the fuel line and the EBP sensor being right there. The current thermostat holds temps around 175-185 under normal driving. I bought the new Mishimoto thermostat housing with the high temp thermostat installed in it when they had their pre sale going on for the housing.
I decided to just go with the whole thing because of all the stuff I read about people having issues with the thermostat not fitting the older housing correctly since Im certain I have the original housing from 2004, like everything else that's still original on my truck. I plan on removing the thermostat before doing the flushes and then installing the new housing and thermostat and coolant filter before I add the ELC.
The coolant filter install looks fairly simple to do so I should be ok with that.
I don't have ready access to my truck and I'm trying to buy new cooling parts when I rip out/replace my transmission. I searched the forum but can't find the simple answer I'm looking for regarding the route of the transmission fluid for cooling.
In my 2001, I thought the fluid comes out of the transmission to the radiator, then back to the transmission from last time I was looking at it underneath. But in the forum, it sounds the fluid would come out of the radiator and then into the air cooler in front of the radiator before back to the transmission.
I just flushed my coolant system and installed a red ELC, Riffraff billet thermo housing, Ford thermostat, new hoses and Riffraff coolant filter. When I first started the truck and was waiting for the thermostat to open I notice at idle the flow from the coolant filter into the Degas bottle was a lot.
Fast forward a week and about 75 miles I have zero flow at idle and it will start to dribble at about 1300 RPM's and increase from there. It seems the flow would not be dependent of the thermostat being open since the connection is below it. I am wondering if my Donaldson filter is already full?
I used a flusher that uses air and water, after flushing I used air to blow to tap water out. How fast have you guys seen one fill up? I ordered 2 extra but just do not want to waste the first one
Is the irp high flow oil cooler any good? Or is it better to stay with the oem
View 14 RepliesHow can I tell if my truck has a cabin filter and where would it be located? I looked through the OM but it was little to no luck....
View 3 RepliesI'm checking my fuel filter regular (draining, examining.....basically OCD **** stuff) and I'm spilling diesel around the bowl. I've learned to put a rag around it now, but what's best way of cleaning diesel around that area? I'm tired of my wife complaining about smell. Simple green, purple power, etc???? Also, tell me what to watch out for.
View 14 Repliesjust bought this truck and it has a brittle cap and i cant get the cap to turn, its been on there awhile . 99 f250, anyway might have to destroy this cap to be able to remove it. Doing this without damaging the filter housing?
View 14 RepliesMy fuel filter lid o-ring keeps blowing out upon hot start, this has happened 4 times now once last week, I replaced filter and all was ok until Thursday it happens again I change the filter allis fine! Now today!!!!! TWICE I have to install new filters because the o-rings are blowing outside the bowl lid! I'm using the same BALDWIN PF7698 filters I've used for years, my reg. Is set at 75psi and holds steady! No spikes but I haven't been able to watch it when the o-ring blows out! Injectors and o-rings are new (<1000miles) no problems during operation at all!
View 14 RepliesDumb question but how do I remove the air filter intake from the turbo Its a little oily there from a fuel or oil leak but I dont see a clamp holding it on the turbo?
Also what is the e clip? Is it the little thing holding the wastegate rod on the exhaust turbine? Can I just pull the rod up off the clip?
Shut my truck off for about 15 minutes and wouldn't start back up. Installed new fuel filter. And gonna try changing cps. Torque says Rpm 180
Ipw. Bouncing between 600 - 3000 Hpop. 250 while cranking Voltage 10.9 while cranking. Ipr starts about 15% and slowly climbs to about 88%
Fuel pressure about 65%
Tried unplugging cps. Gonna check oil now though I check it every time I fill up and it never uses any.
my first diesel, and second 2002 f250. I picked up my 7.3 4x4 automatic CCSB last week. 202k on the odometer. I need to change the air filter but idk what to use. I don't think it's stock. The side of the air box says aFe. What the part number for the filter is? I don't see one on the filter anywhere.
View 6 RepliesI am attempting to change my fuel filter - have a new Napa unit complete with new lid.
I can not get the old one off (this alone tells me it's been on there too long). The hex is 26mm and all I have is a 26mm box end. It just rounds the corners of the plastic hex off.
As the new filter has a new lid, I am using a steel chisel and hammer (in a CCW direction) at several places on the top flange. I have also smacked the top flange liberally to get it to let go of whatever is holding it.
I'm about to get out my map torch out and warm up the plastic but would rather not produce a flame on something with fuel directly behind it.
2000 F350 with 340000 on it, have had it for the last 140000. It's an old service truck from south west gas with one owner in between them and me and he put about 5000 on it. I have the big cylinder open air filter, billet compressor wheel, 4" exhaust all the way and an Edge tuner. Don't have any codes I can pull with the tuner. Have been good to me so fare only need regular maintenance, but always had smoke out oil filler with a little pulse.
2500 ago I changed oil and add 1/4 of Lucas oil. 3 days ago when I started in the morning it smoked white smoke out the exhaust as a steam train and idle rough, but cleared up as I went down the street and will do so every time I start cold or warm. Ok, might need new GP, did that yesterday yet the same. Now I start checking stuff and have smoke out the oil filler as a steam train so the cap won't stay.
I know it sound like alot of problems, just try to verify some of them. The smoke out oil filler is blow by? The smoke on start up is that related to bad injectors? Can a bad injector dumping fuel create the blow by? Coolant level ok Transmission fluid level ok Engine oil Rotella T6 added 3 quarter in 2500 miles. I do not have a scanner or any other advance test tools.