Truck wont start idm communication error all the fuses are good and the relay seams good I switched it out with another relay 340,000 miles how do I know if its the IDM r not... I'm sure the idm is not cheap...
View 2 RepliesMy baby won't run throwing PO1668 IDM PCM Communication Problem. It threw the CPS code first I changed the CPS and it now has the other codes. I'm stuck how do I test the idm all the fuses are good and the relay is good I believe I switched with another one... 341,000 miles I love this truck .....
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 f350, 7.3l, it will not run, my scanner says no communication, I have replaced the PCM, IDM, GEM, injectors and glow plugs, got power to the OBD II @ pin 16, I have power at the 71 pin on PCM I have ground at pin 77 on PCM and power at pin 55 on PCM, it will crank but no fire, no communication.
View 8 RepliesCouple of weeks ago, the display in the instrument panel displayed a large orange wrench. No accompanying text or chimes, just the damn wrench. Checked for codes, nothing out of the ordinary (I occasionally get communication codes, but they usually show up when I do not wait to start). Long story short, the damn thing showed up one more time the same day, then never again.
View 2 RepliesStory starts when I was cruising down the freeway and the truck cut out, seemed like a CPS or Injector related issue - seemed like a whole cylinder bank cut out. Stopped truck on shoulder, she shuttered and died. Turned truck off and restarted, ran like a top for about 4 miles then did the same again. I restarted it again and drive it straight home, ran like it I usually did.
As soon as I arrived home I did a little research and learned to start with CPS. I replaced my grey CPS with a new, Ford grey CPS. Truck fired up, ran the same that it did before - not the best idle but at 302k I was content. Drove it for a few days and it did it again, hobbled the truck home, although it did do it a few times and the last time it did it was really hard to start.
I replaced the IDM through NAPA. She's a work truck so I wasn't going to splurge for a Swamp Unit, the NAPA one came with an 18-Month Warrenty. She started right up afterward, the smoothest idle I had ever felt and she ran great, except for an SES. I ran the code and it was an IDM code, ran a buzz test and it pulled injector #5 high/low error, but it buzzed (a bit quieter than the others).
Here's the weirdest part, when the motor is cold the SES is constant, but as it warms up it only shows under power and sometimes flashes off at certain RPMs (1700-1900 and 2100-2300) and turns off when engine braking (TC locked) returns at idle. NO engine lights with the old IDM. I've checked the wiring to the injector from the 42-pin to the outer connector. (.6-.7 ohms, what my meter reads without any loads) Injector (from outer connector) reads 3.2 ohms. UVCH is less then 2 months old (GP issues) injectors have less than 5k on them.
Why? New injector solenoid? Bad IDM? Is it possible my last one never fired #5 and it got stuck? Or did my old IDM fry #5? Also I'm going to keep driving it and maybe it'll clear up, there was one drive I took where it cleared up completely. I've done some extensive research on this an i'm stumped. With the new IDM the truck has run better then it ever has.
I went and got my truck smog and it failed because of this code. I then changed the sensor cleaned out the tube and I still can't figure out how to get rid of the error code?
View 3 RepliesWell I thought my truck was 100%, and I was going to installed a Chip. I decided to get my Forscan up and running to check and make sure.
The Buzz test Passed with no problems.
The cylinder contribution did not pass. I got error code P1464, which Forscan said that #8 failed. FYI, I turned the A/C on and the test failed. I ran it again with the A/C off and it failed again. I might have the wrong code
I then went to where you could select the gauges to view(PID's). And I saw where you could select all the cylinders injectors individually. I forgot what it was called, but all injectors were reading close to 0.0% at idle except for #8 it was reading 5.55% to 5.88%.
I am hoping this is good news, since I rather the injector be bad then a piston ring or valve. I just got the Forscan and was wondering what other test or other things I could check to narrow the problem down before removing the Valve covers. The truck runs great and there is no miss and it turns over smooth. No blowbye, just runs great. It is a 2000 F-350 dually with just over 202,000 miles
I had incorrect codes its a p200c and p200e
I know this has been talked about but im not having the same results when doing tests
Truck had a ruff fri night. Getting on I state with trailer loaded and it said STOP SAFELY NOW shut donw before i got it under 30 mph. Had it towed back to our shop and started to figure out what was wrong. I have heard of egt 12 and egt 13 sensors going bad. so i un plugged them and put a test meter to the first three all came back in the 216.00 range which is in standard for what my buddy's tested at.
Started my truck yesterday and drove about 1/4 of mile and all of a sudden I lost all power but was lucky enough to creep back home. Had a friend put it on a scanner and it spit out P1280 and P1316 codes. My truck will start and idle rough but has no throttle response and no power. I changed out the CPS and ICP and the problem still exists. I got an infrared thermometer and checked the heat coming off each manifold and the driver side was reading about 200 while the passenger side was reading about 75 while at idle. Pulled valve pan cover off the passenger side to check and see if the harness came loose and everything looked fine. So my question is do you think this could lead to a bad IDM?
View 9 RepliesWhat I know the truck was running normal except if I stomped the gas pedal and let off it would not respond again until I shut off keys and restarted this was a month ago now the truck sounds like it has a lope tune.
When I hit the gas pedal it blows white smoke and if I press the gas while idling or driving it floods out I did the spray bottle test on manifolds the drivers side was plenty hot the passenger side is cold you literally can touch while it's running.
The truck sounds like it's only running on 4 cylinders it has gotten so bad I parked the truck. Also this truck always had poor mpg 8 to be exact city hwy and towing nothing changed the mpg at all it used to blow out wet soot that would fall down on the truck and anyone standing near it.
Mods unknown pcu program 4in straight pipe with 12in stack harpoon mod in tank
I have a 2002 F250 Super Duty. Was driving it and it started to lose power and shut off. Then wouldn't start like out of fuel. No engine light no codes. Truck has 155k on it. So just because I replaced fuel pump. Truck runs but not right it's ruff no power kinda back fires in exhaust. I check wires and plugs under valve covers all seems ok. I ran truck and pulled each injector loose and engine would stumble. As in they are working. I replaced cps. Just because still the same. Then the truck started running right. But the truck runs but has knock but knock goes away and truck has full power. Yes oil is full and I change it regularly. The problem is off and on like electrical.
View 7 RepliesI'm trying to get my truck smogged and having problems w/po475. A friend of a friend said it was the DFPE sensor. So I bought one but can't find where it goes. On YouTube it is only listed for F150's and gas motors it seems. I have a 00 f350SD 7.3, do I even have a DFPE and if so where is it located.
View 7 Replies2000 truck, 334k, automatic 2wd, stock. Have low power, 11psi max.
Permanent p0472 code, can't clear it even temporarily. The moment I turn the key to Acc, code is there. It's the only code showing on Forscan.
Tried 470ohm 1/2watt resistor, in two turbo pedestal sensor connector wires, no change. Forscan shows 0.0-0.6 psi EBP value when running.
No change with pedestal sensor plugged or unplugged. Resistor or not. Truck starts and runs good, low power is the only issue.
Sensor and tube are new. Seems like wiring is bad, where to look next to track this down?
F350 2001.
Constantly throwing codes for both front wheel's ABS. Ohm'd out both sensors - same reading
Ohm'd out wires leading to sensors - same reading
Ohm'd out rear diff speed sensor against a new one - same reading.
Pulled front sensor's cleaned and put my fingers in the sensor hole. What should I be able to feel? I'm wondering if the previous owner put non ABS hubs on?
I had new glow plugs installed 3 weeks ago. Ran fine since. Today, first cold day. No start, oil pressure gauge does not move off zero, interceptor reads ICP 126. Oil level is good. WTS light does come on. Checked fuse 19 as I saw on another thread, it is good.
P1670 and 0381. My ford software is down, trying to reinstall. As soon as it is reinstalled, I can go thru the step process?
Immediately after replacing both front hub/rotors (and front pads and wheel bearings), my ABS light came on and will not go away. I finally ran codes a couple weeks ago while troubleshooting my CPS problem which left me stranded on the interstate while trying to get to the airport for a business trip.
Back in December, all I did was remove, clean, and reinstall the sensors like I always do whenever I have to R&R the rotors. I can't find any damage to the wires or connection points. I have re-removed and reinstalled each sensor again. I have cleared the codes, but once I start pulling out of the driveway, the codes come right back again for both front wheels.
There were absolutely no symptoms prior to the rotor replacement job, and this has been an ongoing and increasingly irritating visual issue ever since I did the brake job back in early December (I can't NOT look at the ABS light every time I start the truck, and I HATE seeing it stay lit)!
What bugs me the most is that I'm getting codes for BOTH sensors after replacing BOTH rotors. I MUST have gotten something wonky, but can't figure out what it was. Now I did replace all the drive line u-joints at the same time, but I never touched anything on the pumpkin or tranny in the process.
So, I have two questions..
1) Possible causes?
2) Possible solutions (I don't want to just start throwing new parts indiscriminately)?
From what I've read, Roland posted acceptable ohm values for the front sensors a couple years ago, so I can check that tonight.
My truck is hard to start when cold and I suspect glow plugs. But it is not showing any codes? If it is a glow plug or glow plug relay at fault , should it throw a code?
View 10 RepliesI purchased this unit, non running, was told the HPOP was bad, after going through the unit top to bottom, Im stumped, below is a list of items serviced and or replaced with OEM parts.
0. changed oil and oil filter
1. Terminator 500 Hpop
2. New ICP
3. New HPOP lines.
4. New starter and solenoid
5. Serviced Turbo (rebuilt with new parts and WW wheel)
6. Serviced Injectors (shimmed) all test good.
7. new pass and driver harness, UVHC replaced, glow plugs replaced.
8. new heavy duty GPR
9. Tested IDM no issues.
10. Hutch mod on tank (re-circulator was stopped up) deleted it, added inline filter.
11. serviced fuel bowl with new parts, upgraded parts on fuel bowl new blow off valve, new drain valve, tested heater all good no blown fuses.
12 replaced faulty fuel pump
Might be leaving something out of this list, the truck has run but only for very short periods of time, (hence the dropping of the fuel tank)
fuel pressure at 70 psi, some white smoke, connected to on board computer, checked every conceivable possibility No DTC codes, my gut tells me it has to be fuel related but at this point I just have run out of things to check.
I have tested everything with a fluke multimeter, including the IDM and all the circuits to the 42 as well as all the way to the injectors and glow plugs and find nothing wrong all tests yield valid readings,
There may be other information available but my after market scanner does not show any issue, KOEO buzz test results good.
The three times I have had this unit running it was dumping lots of white smoke, however after the last round of dropping the fuel tank and replacing the fuel pump the white smoke has dropped to a minimum, but cannot get the truck to run, cranks, wants to start, almost starts, got it up to 800 RPM last try but just will not go beyond that point.
I cannot find anything wrong, must be something I am either missing or its something my cheap scanner can't pick up on.
how can this be? the WTS cycles as well as glow plugs. Brand new batteries, starter relay, starter. with a volt meter tested to make sure power is going to both connections to starter and they are good.cleaned battery posts, and all connections, is it that if there isn't 12v going to starter it wont function? only 3 codes: 0237, 0470 ( deleted EBPV), 1139 (unplugged fuel heater). 2001 f550 150k a/t.
View 7 RepliesOn the way home from work today as I pulled in there was a pulsating under when I pressed the brake pedal and the ABS light appeared on the dash. It didn't pull to the right but it felt kinda odd. When I start the truck, the ABS light comes on with the other indicators, goes off and then comes back on a split second later.
Haven't had any issues lately, and haven't had it worked on lately so not real sure where to start. I checked the VSS sensor on the pumpkin and it was relatively new, which means the prior owner had replaced it. Master cyclinder is full of fluid. I pulled the codes and it returned P0603 P0671 P1670.
Just sprang up out of nowhere. The speedo was not acting squirrely, just the brake pedal pulsating intermittently. Is there a VSS computer I need to replace?
Feb 2000 2WD 7.3 Excursion
I have had an intermittent ABS light for a while now. Since I have gotten the injector o-ring issues, and oil consumption problems nailed down, I am starting to check other things off the list. I have 2 codes:
C1229 Speed Wheel Sensor Rear Center Coherency Fault
C1230 Speed Wheel Sensor Rear Center Input Circuit Failure