Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Hydroboost - Vibration In Brake Pedal
Jul 18, 2015
So I have my 2000 F250 in the shop because I was feeling a funny vibration in my brake pedal. (isn't warped rotors, I know what that feels like). It also felt like the brakes were on, then would release a little, lengthening my stopping distance.
I took it to a small local shop and the guy said it sounds like the hydroboost. I told them to fix it. Next day, before they start to fix, they call and say they can't guarantee it's the hydroboost and may be the Power Steering pump.
My question is; is there a way to test it to know for sure which part is failing? How do I figure out which one is causing the problem?
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Had a lot to do yesterday and had stock trailer hooked up and loaded with debris.
Got 120 miles away, stopped and got the groan from hydroboost/p/s system.
The hose from the pump to the hydroboost was leaking but it was the actual seal on the fitting that gave up rather than the rubber.
Could not find the seal but luckily the Irish place had the line in stock for a reasonable place.
Transmission got hot too backing up and puked out the front seal. I was doing a lot of twisting to get the trailer in the hole.
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03 F250 7.3. I busted a brake line last week somehow, Got it replaced and fixed up, Bled that line and everything was somewhat good.
Now, when i hit the brakes hard, I have pressure. If I let off even a little, My pedal will start to sink till i apply more pressure. I am gonna fully bleed my brakes when I'm home to see if this could solve the problem.
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Ive had plenty of brake issues with this truck since I've owned it and I finally got to inspect a brake i knew was having issues. The outside pad was metal on metal. The inside pad was gone and the one piston was extended completely open while the other one was closed. So to the question. Ive bled it like i do any other caliper and no luck. I went an bled all the other calipers and still no luck. The brakes seem to be working ok even though i never really tested them super hard but the pedal is far lower then it was before.
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New to me 2002 F-250 PSD, done brakes all the way around for piece of mind.
Job went very well, replaced one caliper and its bracket, serviced all pins and replaced one set of pins as well, (different corner). Bled brakes all day via gravity, watching reservoir and filling as needed as to flush in new fluid. Truck is in great shape. Mileage 153,000 no rust, turned all rotors just to re-surface.
Now here is what's happened, my pedal is good but it pulses in the first 1/2 inch of travel and once passed that no pulse, got under and watched the pedal rod do this as I very easily touched it in that first 1/2 inch of travel, you don't even begin to get much brake started here if any! Truck running; yes-Truck not running no pulse action occurs.
I'll add this: fluid removed had a green tint to it but had no moisture or bad odor. Different fluid??? I didn't know. Used Dot 3 Off the shelf O'Reilly's.
Hydro-booster didn't like fluid? Air? Master cylinder? No leaks before or after this procedure.
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Installed Tekonsha P3 on my 2000 F350 I used the recommend pig tail easy hookup when I press brake pedal no voltage at plug but when I move the manual lever I get voltage. I believe the stop light switch activates it. The fuses all check out. I did have a Banks engine brake installed by their people I don't know if makes a difference
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2001 F350 XL... Fitting on PS pump broke and I lost PS and PB with fluid everywhere. Replaced the hose with a new one from Autozone and I have no noticeable leaks.
I know I lost more than a quart but I could only add less than a quart (Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF). I'm also getting a whine from the steering wheel when I turn stop to stop. The power steering is back and there are no leaks (that I see) but the brake pedal is mushy. I've pumped and turned stop to stop for a while. Do I have to bleed the system like I'm doing a fluid flush? I hate to waste the synthetic fluid that I changed about two years ago.
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2007 F350... I noticed I have a small power steering leak where the master cylinder bolts onto the hydroboost. Is there a o-ring or seal between the two? or do I have to replace the hydroboost? Been looking online for a schematic but can't seem to find one.
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I'll get right into it, when I put the mud grips on my truck it always had a little vibration from 42-45 mph and it wasn't to bad. Recently from 30-65 I have a bad shuddering vibration that I get mainly in the steering wheel but I also feel it everywhere else and can see it on the mirrors. Well the front sway bar has a bushing that is broken. But also I notice recently at low speeds from my rear drivers side tire there is a noise that isn't right, maybe a bad bearing? I have a long list of stuff I gotta do on the truck and I just want to stop the Shake so I can get to everything else.
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As I'm cruising once I hit about 50mph I start getting a vibration in the peddles and floor board. It's not real bad but noticeable for sure. When I hit 70mph it's worse and the truck even sounds like it's vibrating. As soon as I let off the peddle and coast everything is golden.. Smooth.. So it seems to be a problem only under power..
A little back story : About a year ago I was getting bad vibration and loosing power. I put it in the shop and the mechanic said the filter or screen in the gas tank was clogged so he cleaned it. I went to Korea for a year so the truck sat in government storage for a year. When I got it back in March I put in back in the shop to have the front passenger side hub replaced.
I don't know if any of that has to do with the vibration I'm getting now.
Truck
2003 F250 ext cab
7.3l
179k miles
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I just had a remote start installed with a turbo timer that works off of the parking brake being engaged. No matter how hard I press it the light does not go on, however when the installer probed the sensor to ground it, it worked fine.What part this is that needs to be replaced. The stealership quoted me at 200 something for a whole parking brake assembly.
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So I'm attempting to track down a grinding/vibration I'm getting only in 4x4. Mechanic checked the axle and front drive shaft u-joints and he said they're all fine. It's not the wheel bearing they are both fine, one is brand new. What to check next or how?
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Im replacing hydroboost and master cylinder and I cannot for the life of me get the master cylinder pushrod (which must be reused) out of the hydroboost unit. There is a spring, retainer and pushrod that I cannot get to release. I know it has to be very simple, I just cannot see how it releases.
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2001 7.3 auto with 188k miles. Supposed to have had a new tranny at 99k miles. Fluid nice and red with no smell.
Here's problem: during the 3rd shift (gear before overdrive), and between 40 and 50 mph, I get a small vibration in tranny. Seems to be just that shift. It's not noticeable if I run it a little harder on the shift (speed up). If I let it lag on the shift, the vibration is worst. All other gears seem ok.
Questions:
1. I believe I have a 4R100. It has a drain plug, but how do I confirm?
2. I have a couple different scan tools. Should I be getting codes if I have tranny problems? Or is there a scan PID I can check?
3. I was thinking of starting with fluid change. Since it probably hasn't been changed since 99k miles.
Last question: any detailed write on fluid change handy? That would include type of fluid, filter part number, etc?
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So I take my new (for me but used) 2007 F350 to the local Ford Dealer to have the oil changed, along with fuel and water separator filters. I even added some Archoil 9100 since it treated my 03 so well. Since I had no history of the last change I wanted to do it right away.
While its on the lift he notices a leak near the hydroboost. I think there on crack...but that's my opinion.
Anyways I look at it and I see a leak at one of the connections under the Master Cyl. Its the connection closest to the firewall. My question is there a oring in there that can be replaced or will I need to replace the entire part?
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What is failing. I have a 2000 F350 PSD with 116k miles. When I bought the truck last year, I noticed that the clutch pedal would squeak while it was coming off the floor. It doesn't happen when the engine is cold. I need to drive it about 30 min before it starts to happen. On longer trips, several hours, the squeaking is louder and the pedal gets very stiff. When I stop for fuel, I've come close to stalling when coming out of 1st gear. I can push the pedal to the floor, but on the way up, the pedal squeaks, and then once I reach a certain point, say 3-4 inches off the floor, the pedal looses all freeplay. The best way for me to describe it is the pedal travels up faster than it normally does when it's cold, and if I don't compensate with more throttle at that point, it will stall.
I've learned a lot by reading this forum for the past year, but I don't know the first thing about how to diagnose problems like this. I've taken it to 2 mechanics for test rides -- one thinks the clutch is fine and thinks the problem is the slave cylinder or a broken bushing in the pedal.
The other shop is also a small independent shop, but they specialize exclusively in Ford trucks, so I thought they would be more knowledgeable. But now I'm wondering if they could sense my ignorance and are taking advantage of the situation. They also took it for a drive, but they think the slave cylinder is fine and that the clutch needs to be replaced. I questioned him about the slave, and he pulled it to look at it, and asked me to push the pedal slowly while he was under the truck. I still had a little resistance and a faint squeak even in this situation. But he said the hydraulics are so simple that he felt we could rule that out. I can't remember exactly what he said, but I think he believes one of the springs in the clutch plate has failed. I just know they are suggesting a new clutch and they want to machine the flywheel to original specs.
I thought the leading symptom of a failing clutch was slippage under a load. So under strain, I would expect my engine to race occasionally, like I'm in neutral. But I've NEVER experienced anything remotely like this, even when driving hard in the hills pulling my travel trailer.
I know something is wrong, but based on my limited knowledge, I'm not sure what. It's getting a little harder for me to move the shifter into 1st and reverse, but once it's there it's fine. I've never experienced any racing or slippage in any gear. The one definite symptom I have is that squeaky pedal that when driven for a couple of hours, gets so stiff that it can cause near stall outs. With those symptoms, what do you think is going wrong?
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I have a 01 7.3 F-350, 120000. I rarely get down hard on the go pedal but a while back I did and heard at pressure whistle just before it would shift. I thought a bad turbo hose so I replaced them all. 'While working on the hose mounts I cleaned up the castings for a better seal'. The hose replacement seemed to get the running but the whistle is still there. I am thinking a leak on the manifolds for the Y-Pipe connection OR does the turbo have a release valve that can make a whistle sound?
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Started noticing a whooshing noise when I let off the accel pedal on my 2002 F250 7.3 powerstroke.
You can hear it best towards the end of this video: [URL] .....
What could this be?
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If I could determine the resistance of the accelerator pedal at around 1000 rpms, couldn't I rig up that resistance and switch it on in the accelerator pedal circuit to make the truck go to high idle? Any flaws in my thinking?
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I own a 2000 F250 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4. The only aftermarket engine modification I have is a Tymar intake. The problem I'm having started about 6 months ago in a very erratic fashion. I would pull up to a traffic signal and as the light changed to green, without warning the truck would have no throttle response. The engine was running fine; there was just no response as I stepped on the accelerator pedal. Usually when I put the transmission in neutral, revved the engine a few times, the throttle would come back on line. This happened 4 or 5 times over the summer and then went away completely until today. Today it came back with a vengeance. At one point I had to shut the engine down completely to restore throttle response. It's a bit unnerving when it happens in the middle of a busy intersection. I was told that it may be the throttle position sensor. Does this sound correct and does it need to be replaced?
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I am pretty sure my pedal is going.. Today and last month it would just die from a dead stop push the pedal and no go, but truck idling fine. I cleaned it off a few weeks ago but now its back. push pedal in and out a few times and all is fine for a few weeks. Truck runs fine other than that. Does not throw a code, just trans light comes on because no movement I think, then it goes off as soon as i start to move along. I have a adjustable pedal assembly 2c3z-9f836-de 508.45 at white bear lake ford.
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