I just purchased a 2000 F-250 (extended cab, extended bed); it's my first powerstroke as I owned an IDI prior to its purchase.
- How do I disable the speaker for the door ajar/seat belt/low fuel alarm? IT HAS TO GO!
- Also as a new powerstroke owner, are there any spare parts/sensors, etc. that I should keep handy, just in case? (ie. I always kept a spare glow plug relay in the IDI F250)...
Door ajar light stays on. Lights were staying on until they timed off but after two days they have returned to normal operation. Where the switch is located on the door frame, I can't seem to find it. 2002 ex psd.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2002 f250 screw. my door ajar light is lit up on the dash. I have tried the wd40 trick, pulled the sensors and bench tested them. What are the codes the instrument cluster test has for each door?
What I am thinking is, if we get a list posted it would be much easier to diagnose the door sensors for others. there should be a open/closed bit for each door. possibly a code for all doors open too. I am curious if there is a code for bad communication on the VSM.
From what I have read, correctly working the doors should read 00 when they are closed. drivers front open=80, pass front open=40 ... My door code does not change no matter what combination of door open/close I use.
Truck is 2002 f250 crew cab ...
My code is C0 ...
Here are some signs of the problem.
*Key fob does not work - battery is good.
*Interior overhead light works only on manual.
*Driver's auto door lock (with driver door open) will lock all four doors but the driver's door will automatically open back. To secure the truck I manually lock the driver's door.
*I replaced the driver's door 'ajar switch' with no results. The old switch was good after testing - normally closed until the ball is depressed then it goes to open.
*No codes.
*I just checked all the mini-fuses with a VOM and they are good.
*Could one of the relays be part of the problem?
I am curious if there is a scanner that can identify the bad door ajar switch if any?
From what I have read so far it appears the VSM (Vehicle Security Module) may be bad as a many of these 2002's complain of this problem and the VSM generally solves the issues. Are there folks other than the dealerships that can program the module if I purchase a new one and remove the old OEM one? Other than the inconvenience the truck runs fine other wise.
Having issues with the door switches. My driver door, when opened, will cause a quick "door ajar" message then go back to as if I closed the door. Only once have I closed the door to have the dome light stay on. Doesn't do it all the time but is more frequent with the cold weather setting in. I got the service truck next week so its a good time to bring it in for warranty work.....
View 6 RepliesMy 2005 Ford Escape's alarm goes off intermittently throughout the day and night. This usually occurs after the door ajar light comes on while I'm driving. All doors are secure and I've even replaced the latch assemblies on the driver's door and rear hatch (these are the most used doors). There must be something in this circuit that is causing this to happen. It is frustrating having the alarm go off in the middle of the night when there are no obvious intruders. How can I resolve this issue without replacing any more latches or spending a large amount on diagnostic tools from Ford?
View 9 RepliesI don't think it is the switch. About 3 months ago towing a heavy load I smoked my Trans during that time when the transmission got over 220 the dome lights would flash and the door ajar warning would flash. I just thought it was a high temp warning. Now tranny is fixed I was towing another heavy load and it started doing it again but all temps are good. I Unhitched load and now it does it most of the time when I accelerate. It seems to do it only under load on the engine. Called ford and they said it's not a warning and they think it's a electrical short. But it only does it if I accelerate.
View 1 RepliesIn my 2007 f-250 it started with the door ajar chime that would click on then off somewhat randomly. Then it started doing it every morning on a cold start for about 20 minutes then the light and chime would click off. Now it stays on constantly. And my automatic headlights are turning on when the engine and ignition is all off and killing my battery. Where to start?
View 1 RepliesVehicle: 2002 f250 xlt 7.3 powerstroke reg. Cab
Issue: door ajar light stays on, power locks on driver and passenger door don't work, radio stays on after truck is off an door is opened.
Events leading up to issue: went to temporarily hook up a wolo dixie horn to see if it worked. Wanted to do it fast so I took + cable, tied one end to the battery terminal and then connected other end to dixie horn relay. I then grounded both negative wires to the truck. One ground on the frame the other I temporarily wrapped around a one of factory ground mounts under the dash. Immediately after doing this the problems stated above started.
How can I fix this. I need to fix this by tomorrow. I have a guy from Craigslist coming to look at the truck. Now the 4x4 issue.
Truck has zf6 manual and the electric 4wd select ****. Just thought I'd list this if it was needed to be known for solutions.
4x4 high light stays on in while 2wd all the time. 4 low will stay on after switching back to 4 high and 2wd but it goes out if I ether stop the truck shut it off then restart it. or back up and slam on the brakes. Also when in 4 high the front driveshaft won't spin. However It will spin when in 4 low.
Another random issue I'd thought I'd just list while I'm writing this.... Cruise control does not work. And when I press the "on" button and the "coast" button at the same time the horn honks.
It was working fine then I drove on a 2 hour highway trip and now it will not open. This is the Xtra cab where you open the front door and then the rear from the inside. The door ajar switch is out. I suspect one of the latches is stuck. There is one on the top and one on the bottom of the door.
View 2 RepliesI bought a crew from a dealer, all the dome lights and cargo lights had the bulbs removed, so i put them back in and of coarse they all stayed on after you close the door, plus the door ajar light stays on when you are driving. I do notice the radio shuts off when you open the door after you turn off the ignition. Does that work on the same door switch, eliminating those?
Also are there switches on the rear doors also? Noticed that the radio isn't effected when you open a rear door. I tried to get the dealer to look at it a day after i took it home, a ford dealer at that, and they told me they tried to figure it out , and couldn't before they sold me the truck. Doesn't say much for their service department.
I own the above described vehicle; I'm at about 196k and I'm the original owner. It's a quad cab, 2002 7.3L with power everything. I believe it's the XLT package (it's not in front of me... I'm at work. CONFIRMED... XLT package).
Currently, it's the workhorse and back-up for the family, not my primary driver - luckily. I've had failure if the automatic door lock on the rear pass. door, and a sticky lock on the rear driver's side lock - they've both been in this state for at least the last four years, no problems beyond the hassle of manual manipulation of the door lock from the inside - otherwise no electrical issues really to speak of.
Three weeks ago, we went to the snow. I rarely use the 4x4, but found that I had to use it that day to get out of some mud - it worked fine, no issues. In addition, I also used the cruise control... something I do rarely, but have not had any issue with it either.
In exiting the area some hours later at the end of our day, I noted two things... the "door ajar" dash light was illuminated and did not shut off through the drive home, and the dome light remained on until the battery saver shutdown shut it down... quite some time (where normally a key in the column turned past the insertion would shut it off).
When I drove home I used the cruise control, as mentioned, and it worked fine.
In exiting the vehicle while at home, as soon as the door was opened the horn started blaring panic alarm style - honk, honk, honk, honk... - and when the batteries are attached, there is nothing that stops the honking, except the battery saver timeout. BTW... no key in the ignition.
I don't use the FOBs... the batteries were dead anyhow (and I moved the FOBs out of range of the vehicle).
Attempted fixes:
- Lubing the lock/WD-40, then shutting/opening the doors (no luck/no change).
- Pulling door panels, removing locking mechanism, removing door ajar switches (I don't know what they're called), manually manipulating the piston AND checking each with a multimeter. (NOTE: One "seemed" not to work properly, so I purchased one from dealer and placed it back... still, no luck resolving the issues overall).
-Checked the wiring looms supplying all four doors - no broken wires noted.
- Replaced the two vehicle batteries.
I'm at a loss and I'm hitting up this forum before I move forward...
I've read that there are issues with the VSM for this year's model, but I'm hesitant to purchase the module without further feedback from a tech. I've read some general posts about alarm systems (doesn't apply to me) and horn issues (but those were horn constantly blaring... not the intermittent horn blasts of a "panic alarm sounding."
I've heard that the GEM and clockspring could be an issue, but I have to look more closely at the associated problems (like recheck to see if the cruise works... door windows go up/down like some threads have mentioned...). I have also read that the door ajar sensor switches attached to the automatic locks could be culprit, as they may "work" when pulled out, but not work when they're installed in the vehicle.
Ultimately, what the cause to the panic horn beeping, dome light and door ajar instrument indicator being on.
on my 2002 lariat.. Crew Cab dually. 7.3.. it will go into programming mode after 8 cycles.. Door locks actuate, but fob wont program. I checked the fobs and they are sending signals. What could be problem?
View 8 RepliesLubricating each door switch has not work to fix the "door ajar" issue on a 2003 Ford Expedition EB model. I have traced both front door wires to a single harness plug, but have not been able to find a pin-out description. Where on the wire harness each door ajar switch can be tested?
View 12 RepliesSo my red door open light started staying on. Along with all the lights associated with the doors being opened. The lights don't always come on, but the dash lights stays. As a quick fix I just popped the bulbs out and went on my way. Tried lubing the doors. That didn't work. I started noticing it seemed to be related to when I was slowing down or turning.
I thought maybe it's my passenger leaning on the door around the turns. So I inspected all the doors, they latch fine and don't feel like they're open. Last night I was riding by myself, and I realized that it wasn't anyone leaning on the door. When I would slow down, at the same spot. I would hear a click and the lights by the doors would come on, as well as the light on the back of the cab over the bed.
It did it every time the whole way home. It was approx. 16-18 mph when it would click. It was the same spot each time but I couldn't really nail the exact speed and watch for deer. I originally thought I'd just replace the sensors in the doors, but idk if that'll work anymore since it seems to be affected by other factors.
My driver side back suicide door won't open. It is the top latch that is not disengaging. I think I heard something loose in that door over the past month. Am I going to have to take off the inside panel to fix it?
View 14 RepliesI can't figure out the problem with my extended cab door. Driver's side doesn't open with either door handle.
View 13 RepliesI've taken the driver's door panel off, and unpeeled the liner. Now that the door is naked and exposed, I'd like to fix several things at once, rather than wearing the adhesive liner out by sticking and unsticking several cycles.
Here's a short list of some potential fixes I foresee taking care of while in there, how to :
1. The door ajar light. Mine went out over a decade ago, and the gallon of WD40 I sprayed into the latch did NOT fix it. In fact, it turned it from an intermittent issue into a permanent problem. I'd like to fix it now, as I miss having a light at night when the door is open. How do I fix it? Links, part numbers, tips, pictures, videos, search terms... all info welcome.
2. Bottom door rust. I don't really have much, but I see very faint hints of paint bubbling under the lower door weatherstrip barrier, which I have also removed. I've read about two schools of thought on preventative maintenance.
A. Pour oil or grease into the bottom of the door.
B. POR15 paint in the bottom of the door.
So basically, oil or paint? Obviously, one can't paint if one does oil, but on the other hand, some say that paint... especially thick paint like POR15, can actually do more harm than good by trapping moisture in the bottom pinch flange, or by creating craters or tunnels where water can burrow and then get trapped, rotting the metal away. What are your thoughts and experiences on this? I'd prefer a solution that minimizes the number of times I have to unstick the interior liner from the door.
3. I'm doubling the lower door weatherstrip with a combination of the older and newer designs. Ford sells the weatherstrip with clips attached, but neither those clips, nor the original clips, are really effective for what I'm trying to do. I've already done the rear doors, and made it work with the original clips, but they are brittle, and I lost a couple to breakage. Today, I broke three clips pulling the old weatherstrip off of the door.
I can't find these clips anywhere locally... I've tried every variety the auto parts and auto body stores sell, and Ford doesn't sell these clips separately from the weatherstrip... and even if Ford did, they OEM clips are not long enough to hold the double deployment of old and new styles of weatherstripping.
In searching this issue, it appears that a lot of people have broken these clips, which stands to reason with plastic in baking inside a hot door for 15 years. I'm sure I'm not the only one who would benefit from finding a good source of automotive clips.
4. Mirrors. I'm finally getting around to this, and this is what motivated the door panel removal in the first place. I need the dog bone harness that converts from a round connector to the flat style connector. Specifically, I need part numbers 1C3Z-14A411-AA and 1C3Z-14A411-BA. Ford didn't originally sell these dogbone harnesses separately, but included with the purchase of newer style outside rear view mirrors in case the translation harness was needed. Sometimes it was, sometimes it wasn't, so there would often be these unused harnesses left over.
5. Jimmy Jammers. Will they cause more harm than good? Does a better alternative exist? Thinking of installing these while I"m in there, but worried the door will be damaged worse as the thief tries to fight their way in. And, with body on shell doors, there appears to be much easier ways to break into an SD anyway, so part of me thinks, why bother
Trying to replace a right rear door handle on my 01 7.3. Attached is a photo of the new handle with the unlock rod. Also is attached is photos of the door without handle. I pointed to the part that moves the lack to unlock.
Looking for the clip part number or photo that is missing. I thought a hose clamp would work maybe with a nut on the rod?
My 2003 Escape 2.0L has the "door ajar" light on the dash permanently lit, including with the engine off and key removed, which means that I have to switch the courtesy light on and off by hand or else it stays on.
Obvious first guess is a fault with a door or tailgate switch, but they all look OK to a visual inspection. Are there any multimeter tests I can do? Any specific voltages, resistances to look for?
I have search youtube and only found front door lock replacement but not the rear..
How do you go about removing the bad rear passenger side door lock actuator ??