Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Higher Pitched Scraping While Driving?
Apr 7, 2016
I've got this loud higher pitched scraping/rattling/clanking noise while moving. Neutral or drive makes no difference. I have a problem with my coast clutch not working and will be having the tranny shop (warranty) take a look at what's going on. Could this sound be from that? I hope it's noticeable on the video. I need to do my swaybar link bushings, but it's not a suspension clunk it's definitely a rotating noise.
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Towing a 5th wheel at about 10,000 lbs total. Towards the end of out 9 hour trip home and going upgrade the truck begins to loos power and the engine starts making some bad sounds. Although its hard to hear it starts about 45 seconds in and continues later when going uphill. the truck also made a very high pitched squealing/scraping sound (not a belt) like it may have been coming from the turbo. Oil temp was about 220, trans temp at 170 at the time of the event.
Truck has 216k, stock, upgraded trans cooler, original fuel pump.
Here is the video : YouTube.....
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I have a 2000 Excursion 7.3, 6 position tune, and exhaust as far as mods (on truck when bought). Last couple of weeks I get no power while on the throttle, foot on the gas and the whole truck shakes at higher speeds - 40mph and above. At first it wouldn't go above 60 or so, would hit the gas and Rpms would just stop not be able to generate any further power. Changed the IPR, ICP, and CPS.
I still get the high/low range ICP codes, P1280, P1281. First night the IPR was changed I got it up to 90mph and thought it was all solved but got a little shake right at the top and I let off the gas. Next day back to square one and has seemed to get progressively worse, almost wasn't able to make it up a hill by my house not even going 20mph, but it's like intermittent. I have a scan tool, here is at idle and at around 60mph ....
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I just wrapped up a full day's worth of tear down/reassembly chasing an oil leak at the turbo pedestal. while I had the turbo out I replaced the pedestal with a non-ebpv pedestal and replaced the outlet with a high flow outlet. I also removed the stock exhaust and replaced it with a 4" Turbo Back from MRPB. Once I got everything put back together I hit the highway to check out the new exhaust.
To my horror I started to hear a high pitched airhorn-like sound while accelerating. It sounds a lot like an old police siren... I'm wondering if this sounds like a turbo or simply a boost leak. I obviously had everything taken apart so a boost leak seems likely (still original boots with 191,000 miles). I've ordered new boots from RiffRaff but wanted to make sure it didn't sound like an exploding turbo and that I could safely drive it until I can fix the old boots.
Take a look (listen) at the video : [URL] ....
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I'm on the road and I pulled over for a pit stop so I don't have time for a search right now, but I noticed under heavy acceleration a turbo whine so high pitched it almost sounds like metal on metal. Is this normal and I just noticed it, a leak somewhere, or maybe indication of something worse? The truck seems to be running ok otherwise. It's an '02 w/7.3 and 220k miles.
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I recently installed a Banks Ram Air Intake on my stock 1999.5 powerstroke and wow did it ever wake up the turbo. A few weeks later i installed a Flo-Pro 5" stainless exhaust from turbo back with no muffler. The truck is running better than it has in years and with 272000 miles, I am pleased with the results. HOWEVER, I have since noticed a little black sticky soot coming out of the tail pipe, a bit of vapor (no oil spitting) from the oil filler tube with the lid off, and now my dip stick tube where it enters the oil pan is leaking. What is going on , or am I now chasing and fixing week points on this truck?
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Coolant temps getting much higher than oil temps under load. Is there any problem that could cause this other than a bad temperature sensor? Reading temps with an Edge CTS 2 monitor. Think I'm going to hook up a mechanical gauge in the morning and see what it shows.
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On my 2006 4X4, I noticed a low pitched revolving dull scraping sound when I was traveling slowly. It was more noticeable on a hard left turn. The sound increased in speed as I drove faster and slower when I backed off. My brake pads are fine with 6 month old rotors. I suspect either a bad hub bearing or U-joint on it's way out. I have approx 114k on the clock and attach an 8ft plow for my driveway alone. What's the easiest way to check?
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I have been getting about a 1-2 second power loss while driving. happened last friday when at a stop light, pressed the pedal and started to go then it dropped out for a second or two and then caught right back up. only cut out twice in 10 minutes then ran fine for another week. This friday oddly enough , it happened again while driving down the road. happened about 5 different times in 10 minutes, then back to normal. I replaced the passenger uvch with dorman, but not driver side a couple of months ago . Does this sound like the other uvch, or tps?
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I have a 2000 f350. Lost power whole driving and won't start back up. I have checked all my fuses and relays several times. Have no power to the fuel pump. Tried running a hot wire straight to the pump and still nothing.checked my emergency cur off switch and there is no power there. Also my WTS light isn't coming on now. Tried checking the heater bowl and no power there.
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My issue can be while driving with cruise on, or accelerating, the truck just losses power, then recovers. At idle, the rpm can, but not always, fluctuate.
There is no "misfire" when it happens, but it just falls on its face. I have NO diagnostic tools, and my injectors are not stock, so I am unable to unplug my DP.
My thoughts are to unplug the ICP and give that a shot? Meanwhile, I will put in a order for a elm327
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Well, I was headed out from work this morning, on my way to fill up as I was a bit below 1/4 tank.
Truck was running good, like normal, until after 5-6 minutes, when it started running rough and had no power. Worried, I pulled off the side of the road. As I did so, it died, and wouldn't start again.
I whipped out my phone, pulled up TorquePro, and ran a code check. Nada. Well, it sounds to me like it's not getting fuel possibly, so I figure the best way to check, is to drain the fuel filter bowl, and crank it some, and check the bowl. No fuel in bowl.
Wifey came to pick me up with the can of diesel I keep for starting my forge (had 3 gal maybe?). Poured it in the tank, cranked it, no start. Still nothing in the bowl.
I'm taking her to work now, so she won't be late, then I'm headed back with a full can of diesel.
If that full can still won't get it, should I keep shuttling diesel cans, or should 8 gal or so be enough to get it back to the fuel pickup level? And if it's not fuel level, what else should I start checking on the side of the road?
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I have had this happen twice now. Starts fine, idles fine, then either sitting or just driving a block or two it starts running very rough, no smoke that I remember seeing, and now no power. Barely makes it up a hill. The first time I thought is was related to the heavy rain the night before. I had the tow truck coming and decided to try it again, this was after a few hours sitting. Ran perfectly. The second time, no wetness/rain, pulled away from the house and in a block or two, same thing ... rough, no smoke, no power. Pulled back into driveway, turned off for a minute, restarted and ran fine. Ran perfect today. What is the best injector cleaner to use in the fuel?
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Been a while... Problem today while towing... I was in some hilly areas but nothing too .. I was pulling an unloaded trailer and experienced a significant loss of power and overheating. Engine started getting hot (almost to red) and then the transmission came up in temp. Made it to a rest area and all cooled down within 2 to 5 mins... but the strange thing about the power uphill is that it is happening at slow speeds as well... boost seems normal. Recently did the injector cups, so the thermostat is new (motorcraft), coolant is new, and put new o-rings on injectors.
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The last couple of days with the temps in the 50's, my 2000 F550 with a 7.3, will start normally and idle fine. When I try to drive it, I get less than a quarter mile and it just looses power and will die.
If I flutter the pedal, sometimes it will keep running, very poorly. And when it does this, it is putting out blue smoke. After it does this, it will run fine. Just like nothing is wrong.
What do I look for, or is this normal. I have had the truck since last October and this is the first time it has acted like this.
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I have a 99 F 250 7.3. It runs fine at idle even for a long time. When I drive around the block a couple of times it will start chugging and lose power and shut off. I have been mixing fryer oil with the diesel. I changed the fuel filter, oil change, crank sensor and fuel pump. I added 15 gallons of diesel and diesel treatment. Pulled fuel filter and bowel is full I'm not sure where to look next.
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I have a late 99 f350 psd with 94k miles. I have had it a little more than a year. It has been a great truck until last night. left my parents place drove up the road about 40 mph and truck just died. I tried to restart with no luck. I don't have a scanner to pull codes, but I immediately thought cps. I went to town and got one, replaced it and had no change. Still crank, no start. I thought maybe fuel so I drained the bowl and pulled the filter. I found the previous owner had torn the bottom oring on the filter when he installed it.
Part of the oring was laying on the bottom of the fuel bowl and part of it was still in the filter oring groove. I removed all the 2 chunks of oring and reassembled the filter and primed the bowl. Cranked the truck, still no start. I unplugged the icp sensor and after cranking a few seconds, the truck coughed. I tried starting again and it fired up. So I shut it off and plugged in the icp again and it restarted no problem. Is that an indicator the icp sensor is shot? Or is there another problem I need to dig into.
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Last week the engine in my truck was shutting off while driving. Happened to me 3 times over the course of two days. The first couple of times, the engine was dead for 3-5 seconds and then the engine would come alive and drive normally again. The third time was about a 10 second event...same result, engine refired on it's own and drove normally. I was in motion all three times so the engine restarts all occurred before I was able to bring the truck to a complete stop.
No check engine light...(I didn't pull any codes because I didn't have my laptop with me). So, I decided to try a new CPS. I had one in my glove box since 2003 so in it went. It replaced a black CPS that I purchased from Riffraff about 100k miles ago. The new CPS seems to have done the trick. I've driven about 500 miles since the swap and the symptom has not returned. I wonder how long this one will last. It's a Ford replacement part so maybe I'll get another 100k miles...
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i just bought my first diesel truck, a 7.3 of course. 2002 f350 4x4 crew cab, short bed. Any ways i drove it for like 2 weeks and left it at my uncles house so he can use to go to work. then 2 days later he calls me to tell me that the truck shut off while driving just like that. he tried turning it on a couple of times and it would just crank. he gave up and had it towed. I have been looking through all power strokes forums and found some solutions like changing the CPS or the IPR.
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So I have this intermittent problem of the truck shutting down on its own when in idle or idling along in drive I immediately put the truck in N, turn the key and she starts right up again.
Does not do it at speeds, just in idle. The "check gage" and "battery" light are the only dash lights on after a shut down.
Where do I start?
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I have a 99 7.3 with 40,000 on a rebuild,injectors I don't know they do pass a buzz test. What happens is when driving say at 30 mph and I am not needing to give it throttle but i don't back all the way off the peddle sort of at a neutral point my engine will sound rough and seems like its not hitting on all cylinders.it runs great when i give it fuel and idles fine its just the point in between it runs erratic.last year when chasing a no power problem. I did rebuild the ipr, new fuel filter, icp and harness,cps and what fixed it was new fuel pressure regulator (brass was gaulded and causing fuel pressure to crash). No mods other than a bullydog tuner that never goes past #2 setting. I do have a auto ingenuity scanner, what to look for or already know what my issue is.
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