Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: High Pitched Siren Like Sound While Accelerating
Mar 23, 2016
I just wrapped up a full day's worth of tear down/reassembly chasing an oil leak at the turbo pedestal. while I had the turbo out I replaced the pedestal with a non-ebpv pedestal and replaced the outlet with a high flow outlet. I also removed the stock exhaust and replaced it with a 4" Turbo Back from MRPB. Once I got everything put back together I hit the highway to check out the new exhaust.
To my horror I started to hear a high pitched airhorn-like sound while accelerating. It sounds a lot like an old police siren... I'm wondering if this sounds like a turbo or simply a boost leak. I obviously had everything taken apart so a boost leak seems likely (still original boots with 191,000 miles). I've ordered new boots from RiffRaff but wanted to make sure it didn't sound like an exploding turbo and that I could safely drive it until I can fix the old boots.
Take a look (listen) at the video : [URL] ....
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Towing a 5th wheel at about 10,000 lbs total. Towards the end of out 9 hour trip home and going upgrade the truck begins to loos power and the engine starts making some bad sounds. Although its hard to hear it starts about 45 seconds in and continues later when going uphill. the truck also made a very high pitched squealing/scraping sound (not a belt) like it may have been coming from the turbo. Oil temp was about 220, trans temp at 170 at the time of the event.
Truck has 216k, stock, upgraded trans cooler, original fuel pump.
Here is the video : YouTube.....
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I have a '99 Volvo V70 XC AWD that is making a high pitched whine that sounds kind of like a siren at times. Usually goes away if I'm driving at high speed on the highway. It's more pronounced during in-town driving on acceleration/deceleration. Turbo?
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I'm on the road and I pulled over for a pit stop so I don't have time for a search right now, but I noticed under heavy acceleration a turbo whine so high pitched it almost sounds like metal on metal. Is this normal and I just noticed it, a leak somewhere, or maybe indication of something worse? The truck seems to be running ok otherwise. It's an '02 w/7.3 and 220k miles.
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When I turn on my fan for the AC or vent or heat, it works just fine on the first and second settings. When I move the fan speed to the third and last speed, I hear this sound that sounds like the blower fan is hitting something. I turn the speed back to the lower two settings and noise goes away. Sometimes I turn it back to the higher settings and the noise actually will go away but most of the time the noise is there.
I pulled the blower motor out yesterday and set it to where I can turn it on while out of the compartment and I didn't really notice a noise. I wonder if the noise is there but I am just not hearing it since it is not enclosed in the compartment? I also noticed there is a crack in the fan where it mounts to the shaft starting at the shaft and extending out one direction and also 180 degrees the other direction. Thoughts on if the motor is bad or just the fan? Or even something else that I may not be seeing?
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I've got this loud higher pitched scraping/rattling/clanking noise while moving. Neutral or drive makes no difference. I have a problem with my coast clutch not working and will be having the tranny shop (warranty) take a look at what's going on. Could this sound be from that? I hope it's noticeable on the video. I need to do my swaybar link bushings, but it's not a suspension clunk it's definitely a rotating noise.
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My issue can be while driving with cruise on, or accelerating, the truck just losses power, then recovers. At idle, the rpm can, but not always, fluctuate.
There is no "misfire" when it happens, but it just falls on its face. I have NO diagnostic tools, and my injectors are not stock, so I am unable to unplug my DP.
My thoughts are to unplug the ICP and give that a shot? Meanwhile, I will put in a order for a elm327
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I have a 2006 350. When I am pulling my camp trailer (about 12,500 lbs) up a grade I hear a fan or blower turn on and I get a high pitched squeal. It will also have a beep and my in dash display will say high engine temp. I have a bullydog pmt programmer (i tow with it in stock mode) the display will show my coolant temp at about 180 degrees. If I pull over and let it idle for about 2 minutes the warning clears and the temp gauge returns to normal. the display reads about 180 degrees the whole time this goes on. I know the engine is not over heating so why do i get this warning and squeal?
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As I was getting ready to leave town with the tractor loaded up, I was accelerating with the turbo spooling up when I heard a bit of a pop and lost power (engine still running and all, just very low power like you get when the turbo fails). I wasn't far from the shop so I came back and started getting a lot of white smoke out of the exhaust, it doesn't smell like diesel, probably more like oil. Definitely smoke, not coolant. I pulled it around back and shut it down to go grab AE and scan it and it shows a P0475, starting it back up has light smoke at idle and it idles fine but as soon as you give it any throttle it starts smoking pretty badly.
Researching it looks like the most likely cause for this is the EBPV itself but before tearing it down that far. This is the only code it's showing.
Truck has 272k on it, turbo was rebuilt a couple of years ago but we didn't do anything with the pedestal at that time. I guess in retrospect, I probably should have done the EBPV delete and the resistor fix then but I didn't think about it at the time.
On another note, my AE is not showing any of the system test for some reason, the drop down is blank. I have version 7.0.1, so it's an old version but I'm working on an old truck, so... What that might be? I've got the truck pulled into the shop now to let it cool down. I'll probably let it sit overnight and take the turbo and EBPV out tomorrow unless someone has a better suggestion...
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When I'm driving at highway speed and press the accelerator after coasting a bit, the engine stumbles then picks up and accelerates. The fuel bowl assembly is brand new as of 5 months ago, and I drained of any water last month when I changed oil. Truck is stock with 350k miles.
Apart from this issue, it runs well and idles smoothly. Injectors are healthy per a buzz test a powerstroke mechanic performed last year. What could cause the stumble off idle?
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I have a early 99 7.3l that seem to cut out and shudder while accelerating at low rpm's below 2000 once I am above 2000 rpm it seems to go away similar to a dirty carburetor thinking injector problem...
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There a couple of things wrong with this particular vehicle. first, that battery will not hold its charge; it also has a high pitched noise when started and only when accelerating. Where to start?
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Background: '01 Excursion 7.3 4WD, 264,xxx miles, batteries less than three years old, new alternator [URL] .... , using an Edge Insight for digital readings.
Problem: I replaced the alternator about three weeks ago, first week all normal. Second week alt/battery idiot light comes on, then to add more frustration it is consistently inconsistent in its reading.
The volts (upon starting) jump around 11.6 - 12.1 when first starting. The light comes on while accelerating and goes off during no throttle while cold.
After warm-up the light will come on intermittently even though the reading is 13.0>, but never during off throttle.
It seems to do this more when cold but it does not completely stop when it's warm. Yes, I don't think that should be a factor but it is a reality .
I'm thinking it's a bad voltage regulator.
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My high pressure power steering hose just blew at the "B" nut at the pump. Meaning, the fitting is still in the pump but the line is out. Do I need to replace the whole line or is there a retainer I can swap out?
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I got a p0284 code and have some symptoms such as shaking while accelerating between 45 and 60 mph and a rough idle.
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Like the title says my truck has been stalling while driving. Accelerating or cruising it dies for a second, two at the most, and then just keeps chugging along again.
I thought i'd fixed the problem last year when I did injector O-rings and 50 cented my UVCH. It hadn't done it since, until two days ago. Started out with a two good solid stalls while gently accelerating up hill. I had thought maybe my fuel pickup foot had finely given up the ghost because I was below a quarter tank. But I filled her up full, and then she did it again about 50 miles of driving later.
I didn't catch the first four stalls on my torque app, because I'd just recently decided to stop logging every trip, with the thinking that it had been half a year problem free, why keep logging waiting for something that isn't going to happen. I did catch the 5th stall on the torque log. But I'm having trouble trying to figure out where it happened in a 30 min log.
First question where would yall start in tracking this thing down? Next what data actually should be logged? I think I've got some extra stuff in my logs that isn't necessary, and is maybe bogging down the system. I get one data point per second resolution on my logs. Are there ways to improve the resolution, will getting rid of some PIDs work?
Lastly I need to attack this thing smartly, without throwing time and money at unneeded parts. I had surgery and I've been out of work for 3 months and I'm looking at another 6 before I'm making money again, and there is no unemployment for the self employed. Also I only get 3-4 light weight upright hours a day to work, exceed that and I'm back on the couch battling swelling for a week.
Also is there anything I can do while driving to "flag" the stalls so I can find them more easily in the logs?
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when i accelerate or let off the peddle I hear and aloud thug or dull bang. I've checked and greased all the u joints. Disconnected the carrier bearing and separated the drive shaft and greased it up. Still get the noise I have very little play in the carrier bearing but I don't think that's the problem. It sounds to me like might be at the transmission. What do y'all think it is?
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I just replaced my 3rd HP power steering line last night( 3rd in 300K, always blows the same point....fitting comes apart where it attaches to the pump.
I'll start, mine have gone about 100K plus or minus 10K, almost thinking about making it a 100K maintenance item.
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Pulled our 5th Wheel up to a campsite we like in the Eastern Sierra, have pulled this trailer there several times before. This trip it felt way down on power and the EGT's were getting up there, I saw 1320 and it would have gone higher if I hadn't backed out of it. It had good boost 24psi averaged 17 to 20 on the steep long pulls. We came home today without the trailer and it ran just fine except once when I really nailed it the emission system light came on and stayed on solid till I turned the key off and on. What is the Emission System light telling me? It ran just fine when the light was on and all indications on the Scangage were good as well a on the Boost, Egt and fuel pressure gauge.
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My car has 155k miles and I haven't had any previous issues with it. I noticed probably 30k miles ago the beginning of a whine sound when the car accelerates. The noise has been getting louder (it's really not that loud) but I am wondering what this could be. I want to avoid anything happening to the car and want to find out what the problem is so I can fix it.
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Story starts when I was cruising down the freeway and the truck cut out, seemed like a CPS or Injector related issue - seemed like a whole cylinder bank cut out. Stopped truck on shoulder, she shuttered and died. Turned truck off and restarted, ran like a top for about 4 miles then did the same again. I restarted it again and drive it straight home, ran like it I usually did.
As soon as I arrived home I did a little research and learned to start with CPS. I replaced my grey CPS with a new, Ford grey CPS. Truck fired up, ran the same that it did before - not the best idle but at 302k I was content. Drove it for a few days and it did it again, hobbled the truck home, although it did do it a few times and the last time it did it was really hard to start.
I replaced the IDM through NAPA. She's a work truck so I wasn't going to splurge for a Swamp Unit, the NAPA one came with an 18-Month Warrenty. She started right up afterward, the smoothest idle I had ever felt and she ran great, except for an SES. I ran the code and it was an IDM code, ran a buzz test and it pulled injector #5 high/low error, but it buzzed (a bit quieter than the others).
Here's the weirdest part, when the motor is cold the SES is constant, but as it warms up it only shows under power and sometimes flashes off at certain RPMs (1700-1900 and 2100-2300) and turns off when engine braking (TC locked) returns at idle. NO engine lights with the old IDM. I've checked the wiring to the injector from the 42-pin to the outer connector. (.6-.7 ohms, what my meter reads without any loads) Injector (from outer connector) reads 3.2 ohms. UVCH is less then 2 months old (GP issues) injectors have less than 5k on them.
Why? New injector solenoid? Bad IDM? Is it possible my last one never fired #5 and it got stuck? Or did my old IDM fry #5? Also I'm going to keep driving it and maybe it'll clear up, there was one drive I took where it cleared up completely. I've done some extensive research on this an i'm stumped. With the new IDM the truck has run better then it ever has.
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