Anytime I run the RPM passed 2300-2500 I get this high frequency squeal. I don't seam to lose any performance, but very annoying. Is this the turbo having troubles. It's directly related to the RPM'S. Other that that, the truck runs great....
View 14 RepliesI bought a 2006 F-350 4WD Lariat SRW with a little over 200,000 miles on it. The truck seems to run perfectly, except when pulling a load (9,000-10,000 lbs) down the interstate/highway. Sometimes, when pulling above 65-70 mph for an extended period of time (45 minutes to an hour) the truck will all of a sudden idle down and won't get above 2300-2500 RPMs (even if you put it in neutral and floor it). It's not enough to shut it down, but it won't let the truck accelerate as fast as normal. Killing the truck and cranking it back makes it go back to running normal for a little while, but the periods of it acting up get shorter after each killing and restarting. I took it to the Ford place while it was acting up, and they thought it was a turbo problem. They cleaned the turbo and said everything looked fine, but the same problem arose after leaving the shop. They've been stumped at 3 different Ford shops, but one said there's a 95% chance a new turbo would fix the problem. What might be wrong?
View 8 Replies97 f150 4.6 4x4, no check engine light, no missing or sputtering, however when I try to get going I can't get passed 2500 rpm and when it finally does its still kind of sluggish and can't pass as easy. Changed fuel filter. It idles fine and when I put it in neutral it will go up to 5000 rpm if I want.
View 6 Replies00 F250 338k auto
No error codes or warning lights (Forscan verified)
No smoke out of the exhaust
No oil or coolant leaks
Have banging noise from the motor. When cold truck sounds normal, quiet. When it warms up, the banging becomes audible. You can hear it at idle. You can hear it under acceleration. Frequency increases with RPM
When at speed, and letting off the throttle, noise goes away.....comes back when back on the throttle. Any time during driving when I let off, engine quiets down to normal. To me it sounds like exhaust leak, bur not sure how to check for those?
Short version is that I just did the EBPV delete with new pedestal and turbo exhaust outlet and put a new turbo middle cartridge in as mine had blown a seal and possibly broken the shaft. Once I got it all put together, I took it for a test drive and it was building 20PSI like it used to but I didn't have the accumulator and turbo mated up fully so I had a leak there.
I corrected that and now don't get any boost until I get to about 2500RPM and then it only builds to about 10PSI. I've double and triple checked all my connections, boots, etc. and everything is tight on the intake, intercooler, up-pipes and collector, exhaust and the spider, I can't see or feel any problems there. I tried disconnecting the MAP sensor and it might be a little better but not even close to normal.
Tried disconnecting the red line from the wastegate and plugging it with no difference. I'm stuck, and frustrated. I do have AE, watching the MGP looks like the MAP sensor is working. I feel like I'm overlooking something simple but I just can't figure out what it is...
Problems with my 2001 F250 4r100 transmission. Transmission will only shift to 2nd gear when throttle is feathered at @2500 rpm. All other gears shift perfectly. This problem is consistent.
View 10 RepliesI have a 1999 Ford F-350. I have six codes from my truck. The codes are P0237 P1119 P1690 P0500 P0603 P0344. My truck runs, but likes to stall out on me for no reasons at times. The other problem I am having is between 1,800-2,500 rpms, she shutters or pops.
View 7 RepliesYesterday my truck started making a loud high pitch squeal at idle. Messing with it this morning I found when I turn the a/c on it quits. Then it will do it for a second at startup and quit. If the a/c system is turned off it comes back. I thought exhaust leak until I found the a/c link.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2006 350. When I am pulling my camp trailer (about 12,500 lbs) up a grade I hear a fan or blower turn on and I get a high pitched squeal. It will also have a beep and my in dash display will say high engine temp. I have a bullydog pmt programmer (i tow with it in stock mode) the display will show my coolant temp at about 180 degrees. If I pull over and let it idle for about 2 minutes the warning clears and the temp gauge returns to normal. the display reads about 180 degrees the whole time this goes on. I know the engine is not over heating so why do i get this warning and squeal?
View 4 RepliesFor a month or two now my truck has been making a squeal and the turbo has been sticking after hard acceleration. The sticking was a woebegone unison ring and I was hoping the squeal would be resolved when I cleaned the turbo but it didn't, in fact, it got worse.
It used to be occasionally and go away after warming up, but now it's more constant than not. It goes away when the VGT does its idle cycle and once you get up to speed.
Here's the sound - YouTube.....
My high pressure power steering hose just blew at the "B" nut at the pump. Meaning, the fitting is still in the pump but the line is out. Do I need to replace the whole line or is there a retainer I can swap out?
View 14 RepliesI just replaced my 3rd HP power steering line last night( 3rd in 300K, always blows the same point....fitting comes apart where it attaches to the pump.
I'll start, mine have gone about 100K plus or minus 10K, almost thinking about making it a 100K maintenance item.
Pulled our 5th Wheel up to a campsite we like in the Eastern Sierra, have pulled this trailer there several times before. This trip it felt way down on power and the EGT's were getting up there, I saw 1320 and it would have gone higher if I hadn't backed out of it. It had good boost 24psi averaged 17 to 20 on the steep long pulls. We came home today without the trailer and it ran just fine except once when I really nailed it the emission system light came on and stayed on solid till I turned the key off and on. What is the Emission System light telling me? It ran just fine when the light was on and all indications on the Scangage were good as well a on the Boost, Egt and fuel pressure gauge.
View 14 RepliesI have a relatively new to me Excursion. It seems to run well and shift well but recently I've become very aware of a strange hum, thrum, and vibration in the floor boards. The sound and vibration have a definite cadence/pulse.
Here is what I have observed trying to source the sound. Occurs around 2500 rpm and continues up to 4000 haven't really gone past 4k to know about after that.
Occurs in Park, neutral and drive and is more noticeable under load especially when towing. It is not really noticeable under my normal driving style it gets lost in the running gear until the X is at around 3600 RPM's which typically doesn't happen unless I'm pulling a long grade with a trailer. It was only after testing at a standstill in park and neutral that I realized it actually starts at approximately 2500.
Other than the vibration and low frequency hum starting at 2500 there are no real indicators of reduced performance or other problems but it's got me nervous.
Story starts when I was cruising down the freeway and the truck cut out, seemed like a CPS or Injector related issue - seemed like a whole cylinder bank cut out. Stopped truck on shoulder, she shuttered and died. Turned truck off and restarted, ran like a top for about 4 miles then did the same again. I restarted it again and drive it straight home, ran like it I usually did.
As soon as I arrived home I did a little research and learned to start with CPS. I replaced my grey CPS with a new, Ford grey CPS. Truck fired up, ran the same that it did before - not the best idle but at 302k I was content. Drove it for a few days and it did it again, hobbled the truck home, although it did do it a few times and the last time it did it was really hard to start.
I replaced the IDM through NAPA. She's a work truck so I wasn't going to splurge for a Swamp Unit, the NAPA one came with an 18-Month Warrenty. She started right up afterward, the smoothest idle I had ever felt and she ran great, except for an SES. I ran the code and it was an IDM code, ran a buzz test and it pulled injector #5 high/low error, but it buzzed (a bit quieter than the others).
Here's the weirdest part, when the motor is cold the SES is constant, but as it warms up it only shows under power and sometimes flashes off at certain RPMs (1700-1900 and 2100-2300) and turns off when engine braking (TC locked) returns at idle. NO engine lights with the old IDM. I've checked the wiring to the injector from the 42-pin to the outer connector. (.6-.7 ohms, what my meter reads without any loads) Injector (from outer connector) reads 3.2 ohms. UVCH is less then 2 months old (GP issues) injectors have less than 5k on them.
Why? New injector solenoid? Bad IDM? Is it possible my last one never fired #5 and it got stuck? Or did my old IDM fry #5? Also I'm going to keep driving it and maybe it'll clear up, there was one drive I took where it cleared up completely. I've done some extensive research on this an i'm stumped. With the new IDM the truck has run better then it ever has.
My new to me 99 f350 has a great a/c but it only blows on high. Am I looking at a blower motor, resistor, or the fan switch? I'm grateful that it does blow on high being in SE TX and SW LA. If it didn't I couldn't ride in the old girl. A black truck with no a/c is not happening this time of year....
View 12 RepliesI notice my trans temp gets really hot fast. For instance just moving my trailer from front of my house to side yard makes temp go to 250. Without any load and driving a couple miles it does the same thing. It's been doing it since I installed the trans temp gauge just trying to figure out what's up.
View 14 RepliesI have a 99 f350 and I can't get my truck to kick up the idle when it's cold out. There have been mornings in the negatives and still nothing. I replaced my egr tube and cleaned the exhaust pressure sensor. My exhaust back pressure valve opens and shuts while driving at slow speeds but not while at idle, but I don't know if that's related. I replaced the oil temp sensor with a ford motorcraft one. And I plugged my intake air temperature sensor into a buddy's truck with the same motor and his truck still idled up no problem.
View 14 RepliesI had a p1211 code when I first got Torque Pro hooked up. I figured it was just because I'd done a couple WOT runs and the HPOP just can't quite keep up with the injectors. I was told this might happen when I ordered the injectors from Gear head. I also noticed that my ICP peaked at around 3600 during one of these runs. I don't have it logged, but I'm certain it was up that high.
The code hasn't returned, but I haven't been running it too hard either. I don't quite know what to make of the ICPs actually being that high. From looking at a bunch of Rich's graphs his doesn't really get past 2800 or 2900. Is this an incorrect reading? Do I need to worry about anything?
What kind of engine oil temps are too high? I know pulling the other day it got as high as 220 but I honestly only have the gauge cause I got it for free. Whats happening at the different temps? I know for trans fluid but not for engine oil..
View 10 RepliesTowing a 5th wheel at about 10,000 lbs total. Towards the end of out 9 hour trip home and going upgrade the truck begins to loos power and the engine starts making some bad sounds. Although its hard to hear it starts about 45 seconds in and continues later when going uphill. the truck also made a very high pitched squealing/scraping sound (not a belt) like it may have been coming from the turbo. Oil temp was about 220, trans temp at 170 at the time of the event.
Truck has 216k, stock, upgraded trans cooler, original fuel pump.
Here is the video : YouTube.....