Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Hesitate For A Minute And Then Lag When Floor It Going Uphill
Jan 21, 2016
I have a 2000 7.3 and I have a hypertech Max Energy Programmer set to stage 3 in my truck right now (100 HP). I noticed last night when I was going up hill and had my foot to the floor the truck would hesitate for a minute and then lag before it was would catch up to itself. I did it again on some flat ground and noticed when it did do that my boost gauge would get to 20 and then fall to Zero. If I start out and gradually get to the floor without punching it the truck drive fine. How to fix it?
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Okay, I am having issues with a 1999 F250 XLT 7.3 with diablo programmer. I have searched and searched and have tried everything we could think of and it is a no go. The truck will crank, hesitate to start, start and die, other times it will only crank and not run at all. We can make it stay running by hitting the accelerator. The only code we were getting was the cps code, but that is suspected to be because of the excessive cranking and no start times. Previous to this issue getting this serious it would stall randomly, at idle, going down the road at constant speed, slowing down, or accelerating. We now have code P0231.
Through this we have tried:
IDM
(loaner) ECM
removing Diablo
3 CPS
shaving down CPS
Shimming CPS
IPR
Fuel pump
relay
fuel pump fuse
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I have noticed thru the cold months after I start my 2001 F250 7.3L 4X4 after it sits about a minute "warming up" that it goes into a high idle. The high idle will stop once I press the brakes. Is this normal?
I think this is a unrelated issue, but just started over the weekend. Was riding home, and pressed my brakes and the pedal moved almost to the floor. Not normal conditions for my truck. Usually the pedal is very stiff. I have noticed that my power steering pump has had a hum for months. I changed the fluid (ATF Mercon) within the last 6k miles and that calmed it down a bit.
After the pedal went to the floor, the hum seemed to quieten down even more. The power steering still works and the reservoir has adequate fluid and so does the brake fluid reservoir. I haven't noticed any leaks around the truck. I'm going to bleed the brake in an hour or so. The brakes pedal seems stiff when I press it after the high idle, but then it gets soft after a pump or two.
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Long story short, when going up hill or any incline for the matter it feels like it's struggling and lugging, blowing carbon everywhere. It's an automatic so I yeah can downshift sometimes but even turning overdrive off doesn't work in a lot situations. My EGTs are way too high and I'm not about to tow my project car to OKC unless I get this figured out. I live around Salt Lake City so towing can be hard up surrounding passes. Just cruising to park city at 70mph on I80 up a pretty good incline my EGTs were 1,000. Just driving around the city, some hills I see 700-800 when I'm going 35mph.
At stop lights I'm seeing 400 at idle. My probe on the pyro is going bad starting to flutter but even if I fix that I'm still having issues up hills. Boost is good, up-pipes don't appear to be leaking but fuel pressure is a little low @56 and I know it's not the fpr because I just messed with that yesterday, put a new poppet and oring in, I haven't checked the fuel pump yet or dropped the tank either. If it is in fact fuel pressure related, does it make sense for me to see smoke coming out, wouldn't that indicate too much fuel? I'm lost, it's driving unloaded like I'm pulling an anchor.
Regardless of which spring I put in the frx I get 56psi, even with the black one I may see 58psi but even with 58psi it was still lugging it's butt off up hills and making that terrible drone sound like F you down shift me now.
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Towing a 5th wheel at about 10,000 lbs total. Towards the end of out 9 hour trip home and going upgrade the truck begins to loos power and the engine starts making some bad sounds. Although its hard to hear it starts about 45 seconds in and continues later when going uphill. the truck also made a very high pitched squealing/scraping sound (not a belt) like it may have been coming from the turbo. Oil temp was about 220, trans temp at 170 at the time of the event.
Truck has 216k, stock, upgraded trans cooler, original fuel pump.
Here is the video : YouTube.....
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I have posted a pic of a smoke issue I am having while pulling.
I just pulled a 10,000 lb trailer up a few 7% grades at 8-10,000 ft and the best I could do was 40-45 mph at 6mpg. Every hill would set a P1211 and when the truck downshifted to 3rd the smoke would go away for the most part.
Truck is 100% stock and pulls the same as my F350 with 3.73 gears but smokes a lot more.
The smoke is kind of annoying and performance seems sluggish especially given the 4.88 gearing. Where to start?
Has new ipr, hpop, icp, fuel filter, air filter, fresh 5w40 mobil 1.
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I have always seen other trucks blow black smoke with towing up a hill but mine for the most part has not. I pulled my 5er to CO this summer and notice my truck starting to blow black smoke. I consider myself a very conservative driver. I always stay around 65 MPH while towing and never push my truck up the hills. I always try to keep the RPM around 2000 and let the MPH fall where they may until I reach the summit. With the black smoke I'm starting to see what is my truck trying to tell me? It's not bad but would like to fix now before it becomes something more.
2001 F250, 4X4 crew cab, 7.3 with 205,000 miles.....
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Lately I have been having problems loosing power. Truck wants to miss mostly going up hill and runs sluggish I'll pull off the road and let it idle for a minute and it will run fine. And it is only occasionally some days it don't happen at all and other days it happens quit often. New fuel filter, oil is good, had it on the scanner and isn't throwing any codes. Around 230k miles newer injectors.
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I bought a 2002 body with a late 99 engine with lower miles a couple years ago. I knew it had an oil leak when I bought it. My other truck had a turbo pedestal leak. This truck has a small pedestal leak but it's not that much of an issue as there is little oil in the valley and next to nothing running down the back of the engine.
The other leak is getting worse. It has been leaking somewhere up front and coats the main steering arm off the steering box, the lower rad hose and the rest of the steering linkage. Last night after driving around 100 Kms I have oil running out from under the engine across the floor.
I changed the LPOP after thinking the front leak was from there. Unfortunately i don't think it was.
I am hoping it's the oil cooler and not the HPOP. One other thing is before yesterday's trip, I installed my homemade ccv mod off my other truck. I don't think the leak is coming from that either.
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Okay I'm also having issues with vibrations on the floor board. I replaced the carrier bearing last week and not sure if correctly done or maybe I didn't get the splines in the exact order they came out in but the vibration is still there if not worse. I was thinking I could order a new rear drive shaft for around 350.00? would it matter how it was installed?
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In my 99 with a zf6 it seems like when I push the clutch to the floor it's not disengaging all the way. It has a newer valair clutch in it maybe 15000 miles on it. It's really hard to get the truck in reverse or first from a stop. If the truck is stopped and it's in reverse or first with the clutch to the floor it will move in that gear. Is there a adjustment on the clutch? I'm thinking no since its hydraulic....
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What is failing. I have a 2000 F350 PSD with 116k miles. When I bought the truck last year, I noticed that the clutch pedal would squeak while it was coming off the floor. It doesn't happen when the engine is cold. I need to drive it about 30 min before it starts to happen. On longer trips, several hours, the squeaking is louder and the pedal gets very stiff. When I stop for fuel, I've come close to stalling when coming out of 1st gear. I can push the pedal to the floor, but on the way up, the pedal squeaks, and then once I reach a certain point, say 3-4 inches off the floor, the pedal looses all freeplay. The best way for me to describe it is the pedal travels up faster than it normally does when it's cold, and if I don't compensate with more throttle at that point, it will stall.
I've learned a lot by reading this forum for the past year, but I don't know the first thing about how to diagnose problems like this. I've taken it to 2 mechanics for test rides -- one thinks the clutch is fine and thinks the problem is the slave cylinder or a broken bushing in the pedal.
The other shop is also a small independent shop, but they specialize exclusively in Ford trucks, so I thought they would be more knowledgeable. But now I'm wondering if they could sense my ignorance and are taking advantage of the situation. They also took it for a drive, but they think the slave cylinder is fine and that the clutch needs to be replaced. I questioned him about the slave, and he pulled it to look at it, and asked me to push the pedal slowly while he was under the truck. I still had a little resistance and a faint squeak even in this situation. But he said the hydraulics are so simple that he felt we could rule that out. I can't remember exactly what he said, but I think he believes one of the springs in the clutch plate has failed. I just know they are suggesting a new clutch and they want to machine the flywheel to original specs.
I thought the leading symptom of a failing clutch was slippage under a load. So under strain, I would expect my engine to race occasionally, like I'm in neutral. But I've NEVER experienced anything remotely like this, even when driving hard in the hills pulling my travel trailer.
I know something is wrong, but based on my limited knowledge, I'm not sure what. It's getting a little harder for me to move the shifter into 1st and reverse, but once it's there it's fine. I've never experienced any racing or slippage in any gear. The one definite symptom I have is that squeaky pedal that when driven for a couple of hours, gets so stiff that it can cause near stall outs. With those symptoms, what do you think is going wrong?
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I have not had much fun with the front end of my 1999 4x4 7.3 diesel dually. Well I replaced the ball joints with moogs over the winter. Just recently I my truck has developed a thumping sound that I can feel under my driver side floor board. The weird thing is that it does not do it all the time. But yesterday I noticed it for a more extended amount of time.
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The floor and defrost vents work. It just stays on defrost when you try to use the dash vents. The actuator seems to be working fine. I can watch the arm move through all the motions. and I cant find ANY vacuum leaks. Yes I looked at the hubs and under the hood. May be moving to alaska and kind of need my heater to work properly. . . .
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The problem occurs when you hit bumps while braking, or if you get on the brakes to hard. It seems like the brakes lose pressure entirely and the pedal goes to the floor. It kicks back in when the ground smooths out, or if you are braking hard it slowly grabs again. At first i thought it was sliding, but it definitely is not. The truck appeared to be equipped with abs but the previous owner seems to have cut the abs wire/sensor at the hub. Another thought i had is maybe the brakes need to be bled and have fresh fluid put in them, I have not tried this yet (Plan to this weekend along with a dozen other things). Its rather scary when it happens. but i didnt think much of it until i nearly rear ended someone..with my younger brother in the car. Now i need to fix this asap.
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I just bought a 99 f250 super duty with 6 speed and it has clutch problem the clutch pedal goes about 1/3 of way down then drops to the floor and stays. I pulled slave cylinder and it has just as much resistance as a new one. my other thought was a spring internally in transmission. any other thoughts or do I just need to replace the clutch?
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I have a 2000 F250 4x4, it has been sitting in my garage for about 3 weeks. I cranked it up and backed it up about 10'. A few hours later I noticed a lot of transmission fluid on the floor. I remember hearing a hissing sound when I cut it off but didn't think anything about it. The fluid is on passengers side of truck, right side of the engine. Most of fluid is toward the rear but some ran down in front of the axle also. It's up high also, I've got fluid on rear of valve cover. I've cranked it up and let it run but can't get it to leak. Where did all this fluid come from?
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I am the original owner of a 2003 F250 Super Duty 6.0L. I have had all the required work that has ever needed to be done to it, including replacing the entire wiring harness and some work on the turbo this last September. Over the last few weeks I have noticed it sputtering when going between 45-55MPH up a hill. It only does this when I'm going at a steady speed. It starts fine and accelerates fine, but if I'm going a steady speed up a hill 45-55MPH I notice the sputtering. I've had almost all my work done by the dealership and just had it in last week for this, but they have told me there is nothing wrong, but knowing my truck, I know there is. What could be causing this? There are no check engine lights on or anything.
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i have an 03 F350 6.0 turbo diesel. Problem im having is a boost problem. on the passenger side, the intake tube keeps popping off the turbo. The Boot ripped on me on a hill so i replaced it with one from the junkyard seeing that it costs so much new. Anywho when i changed the intake tube i did clean it with brake cleaner to clean it and wipe it off. After i did i went for a ride and it just popped off at about 2500 rpm. So i went back thinking maybe i had too many bruskies and recleaned and tightened the clamps on the boot again. Get going down the road going normal again. I gave it a heavy foot to about 3200 and let off it made a sound like fluttering then as soon as i hit it again it blew off. looked at some other forums that said to put hairspray on the boot to seal it. haven't drove it yet just looking for other peoples solutions.
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My brother and I both drive Chevy S10 ZR2s, 2001 and 1998 respectively, and they both have the same problem(s). Initially, the first minute after starting, the trucks will backfire and hesitate, which is most apparent when traveling up hill because if the engine hesitates when traveling up hill, we don't go anywhere. However, after this initial minute, the truck perform just fine, mostly.
The only time that they will not perform well after this initial minute is if we go to pass someone on the highway and need to accelerate harder to do so. If we do this, the same symptoms described earlier return, but they will not go away unless the trucks are shut off and allowed to "rest" for a few minutes. A similar problem was described in last week's show, but that was for a carbureted S10 and I'm pretty sure that ours are EFI.
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My 4x4 was broken which of course made it harder driving in the snow but here are a few things I had issues with,
1. When I went to turn, the truck hard trouble turning and wanted to slide straight.
2. When I was sitting in traffic... the truck kept "sliding" off the road. I would be still and then the truck would start sliding....yet the cars/trucks infront/behind me didn't slide. What could be the causes of this ? Some of the front end work I did was,
> Ball joints
> New drag link
> New steering rods
I'm pretty sure my alignment is "decent".
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