Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Heavy Smoke At Start - High Idle?
Nov 10, 2016
Here's the deal. 99 Powerstroke out new injectors and orings. Did orings twice to make sure i didn't damage it. New turbo, new utvc gasket, new ipr, new fuel pump, I new complete engine wire harness. I pulled the injectors and ran in another truck no problem. New injector cups compression was all in the 300-375 range. Any cold start smokes like hell. Goes away when driving after the first time of hitting boost. Spits and shudders for a few seconds until boosting. Every time I stop it starts smoking again at idle. No power loss not using oil. Can't get a grasp on this smoking issue. When cold start I kill millions of mosquitos in a one-mile radius.
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My truck 00' 7.3 255k is smoking white. It's not thick its more of a white haze. Sometimes it does it sometimes it doesn't. It has a 6637 intake, exhaust, and wicked wheel. No tuner or such. Im thinking either the turbo is going out or maybe a leaky injector? Just checked the turbo wheel and it has a little side to side play. On start up itll puff white then go away but then under heavy acceleration on occasion there is a haze of white then goes to haze of black. It also feels like the truck is lacking some power. There is no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. Not consuming oil or coolant. And there is no excessive pressure coming out of the oil fill.
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I'm on the road and I pulled over for a pit stop so I don't have time for a search right now, but I noticed under heavy acceleration a turbo whine so high pitched it almost sounds like metal on metal. Is this normal and I just noticed it, a leak somewhere, or maybe indication of something worse? The truck seems to be running ok otherwise. It's an '02 w/7.3 and 220k miles.
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My late 99 has 161K, I am the 2nd owner and bought from the Original owner. It is stock with no tunes. Auto/4wd.
It has had an intermittent idle knock and recently has gotten much louder recently when used heavily with towing for summer camping in the 7K range up steep hills. The knocking goes away above 12-1500 rpm. There is no noise when the engine is cold. It seems heavily temp/load/heavy use dependent. If driven lightly, the knock is quieter but still present. The trans was recently rebuilt and new billet converter installed, made no difference so it's not that it would appear.
I rec'd blackstone last week and the results are excellent. Running the cyl contribution test while hot in drive at idle reveals cyl 8 is running 4.9 to 5.4 Perdels. #3 is 2.2 to 2.8. 1,6,7 are 0. 2 is .6 and 5 is .4.... I haven't checked bolt torque yet. My question: Is #8 "fixable" potentially with bolt torque? Is it considered too far gone and should just be replaced?
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Well, long story is that I starting have problems with my 2000 F350 Dually 7.3 PSD about 6 months ago ( ~10K miles ago ). I have sunk almost 5K$ in mechanics and the problem is still present.
By troubleshoot, I do not mean try this, try this, as that has been what is happening. I mean making test measurements and diagnostics. I am fairly mechanically inclined, but I am no mechanic. Looking for primers on how the 7.3 PSD works.
Symptoms: After the truck sits 12 to 14 hours, it starts and idles fine ( ~ 700 RPM on the 'Dash Tach' ) just as it has always done. During the first 5 miles of driving it, the SES light comes on and it sputters, stalls, and vibrates as if a couple of the injectors are not firing. It then clears up and the SES light goes out, except that it idles at about 1200 RPM ( 'Dash Tach' ).
It runs fine like this the rest of the day, If I shut it down it will start right up and run fine, but it has the high idles. Only if it is shut down longer than 12 to 16 hours do the symptoms, other than the high idle, reappear. The high idle is constant. Also mpg have fallen ( 13 opposed to 16 ).
It does not seem to be related to ambient temperature, or the amount of warm-up idle. I have idled it for three hours on startup and it is fine, until I drive the first 5 miles or so.
Now, I have had three mechanics work on it and they have replaced: the ICP sensor ( 3 times ), the Fuel filter ( twice ), drained, flushed and refilled the HPOP, replaced both sides of the valve cover wiring harness, put in a new IDM, fuel heater, CPS sensor ( 3 times ), fuel pump in fuel tank, EBPV ( not sure what this is ), and the last straw was saying the injectors needed to be replaced ( or at least the O-rings, but while we are in there you might as well ... ).
I bought a cheap code reader and it says: P1316 & P1211. I believe these are the same codes since day 1.
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I have noticed a small vibration at 40-50 mph for a few weeks now and was unsure to the issue.. ( I just checked wheel bearing ect , last night ) . This morning at a stop light she started to white smoke shake and clack, somewhat violently, when I pull away from a stop it seems to smooth out and run normally.. A stuck injector ? Toast injector ?
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I have a Tymar intake, magnaflow exhaust, a DP Tuner and I have Rosewood Diesel injectors.
I had a bad oil leak recently and it seemed to be coming from the turbo area so I changed all the o rings back there and deleted the EBPV system (I cut out the butterfly and welded the holes shut, cut the part of the pedestal that held the actuator because it looked like it was leaking and welded the oil holes in the pedestal that fed it. I left the actual EBPV sender in the pedestal and kept it connected to the harness)
After all that was done I checked the oil and it was low but still on the dipstick so I drove it to the local parts place to get some more oil, about 2 miles, because I wanted to check for leaks. It was not happy, ICP low code came up it was sputtering and jerking when stopped at a light. I got to the store and parked it, it took about 3 litres of oil and seemed to run pretty good after that.
But on the way home I noticed a bunch of white smoke, I figured maybe an injector was stuck. I started it a little later and no white smoke in the driveway so I thought maybe it had gotten lubed enough and had sorted itself out. That was a few days ago.
Today I started it and let it idle in the driveway for about 15 mins and no white smoke, I wanted to get it up to speed a little so I took it to do an errand that was about 10 miles away, lots of lights and a bit of highway. It would run fine while going at speed but as I would slow down for a light the ICP would go down to around 600psi and the white smoke would start, as sitting idling a huge cloud of white smoke would form (yes, I was that guy), once I could take off and get it running a bit harder it would go away again.
I am assuming that I have a stuck injector (or cracked), I have no oil in my degas bottle and it doesn't look like it is fuller than before. Seems like I may have used more fuel than I should have, but pretty hard to tell just from the fuel gauge.
I have tried a buzz test and they all sound the same, tried a Compression Contribution test, no codes from that.
How can I locate a stuck injector? If that's what it is?
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My 02 excursion is missing at idle and jars the whole truck around going approx 50mph feels like good amount of power loss but still pushing 30psi boost, just got autoenginuity all injectors buzz fine on the test, contribution test show balance fault in cylinders 1&8, should I look for o-rings to be bad, uvch, cups cracked or what ----- turbo fine, hpop great condition, new IPR, new fuel pump and hutch mod, about. 250k miles on truck nothing else major showed up on ae.
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I have a 2001 7.3 that almost has everything practically brand new... new hpop, water pump, uvch, gpr, glow plugs, icp sensor, ipr sensor, cps and new turbo pedestal that was leaking oil, well now my truck has a cold start to where it has to be plugged in to start and when it finally does it smokes white pretty bad, misses and sounds like it's jumping around under the hood up until it warms up and revs fine with less white smoke but still a miss!!
Compression on test has been done, and good, fuel pressure is good, but the buzz test when cold shows 123457 muffled and quite and when the truck is warm only 3 and 4 are still muffled and quite? Injectors sticking?? Or just need New injectors!
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I have a 99 f350 and I can't get my truck to kick up the idle when it's cold out. There have been mornings in the negatives and still nothing. I replaced my egr tube and cleaned the exhaust pressure sensor. My exhaust back pressure valve opens and shuts while driving at slow speeds but not while at idle, but I don't know if that's related. I replaced the oil temp sensor with a ford motorcraft one. And I plugged my intake air temperature sensor into a buddy's truck with the same motor and his truck still idled up no problem.
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Early 99 7.3. Runs ok has a slight miss at idle however every injector when unhooked makes a change. Has white and blue smoke From the exhaust. Has enough blow by to blow the oil cap off as your unscrewing it. My question is, I know engine restore is bad for these trucks but I can't afford to rebuild the engine. If I run the restore and then clean the IRP once the truck dies is this going to mess anything else up. Do you think it will by me a few months to save up for a rebuild
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I have a 99 F3 50 with the 7.3 L I am done a lot of work to replace the HPOP pump and the ICP sensor as well as the IPR it cranks but does not start it will sputter and smokes but doesn't run SOS. Also there are no dtc in computer....
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Alright. 99 Ford F-250 4x4 Ext Cab 287,000 miles. I know she is getting a little long in the tooth but this issue is new within the last month. It does seem to be better when it has been plugged in. On start up I smoke out the neighborhood. Blueish/White smoke, also sounds like it's missing on a couple injectors. Doesn't matter if you cycle the glowplugs a good long time. No luck. Glow plugs are 1 1/2 years old along with injector o rings. Only thing new is I changed from Rotella T-6 to Delo 5W40 Syn, but it was doing it before the switch as well. I tested my glowplugs relay and that is working fine. Could I have lost a UVCH? Fuel filter six months ago or so.
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For the past few days I noticed my truck would be really rough to start and a lot of white smoke. but once it ran for a minute or less it would be fine. Today when I got home I popped the hood and was looking for anything and noticed my degas bottle had this weird fluid inside on top of the coolant? So I popped the cap off and smelt it and its fuel. Of course this would happen to me. Now I'm not going to lie I have beat on it a few times this week but nothing so so serious.
Could this be contributing to it? Could it be a head gasket? now being a diesel mechanic I doubt its a head gasket simply because there is no oil mixing. I am praying its nothing too major. Once I have the narrowed down to what it could be ill see if its something I could tackle or if the stealership has to do it, which I am not looking forward to. I'd rather be down a truck for a little bit and save a boat load of cash.
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I have noticed thru the cold months after I start my 2001 F250 7.3L 4X4 after it sits about a minute "warming up" that it goes into a high idle. The high idle will stop once I press the brakes. Is this normal?
I think this is a unrelated issue, but just started over the weekend. Was riding home, and pressed my brakes and the pedal moved almost to the floor. Not normal conditions for my truck. Usually the pedal is very stiff. I have noticed that my power steering pump has had a hum for months. I changed the fluid (ATF Mercon) within the last 6k miles and that calmed it down a bit.
After the pedal went to the floor, the hum seemed to quieten down even more. The power steering still works and the reservoir has adequate fluid and so does the brake fluid reservoir. I haven't noticed any leaks around the truck. I'm going to bleed the brake in an hour or so. The brakes pedal seems stiff when I press it after the high idle, but then it gets soft after a pump or two.
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So finally got my truck running due to a fuel issue. Anyways been driving it for a week or two now, and I have a strange problem idk if it has been covered here or not.
Driving around tow etc if you come to a light or whatever and stop the rpms stay at 800rpm. Now if you shift it out of gear and back into drive the rpms settle back down around 650. Where is should be.
My guess is the torque converter is not disengaged all the way when it stuck at high rpm (800-900) for this situation. No cel, slippage, or crazy noises
2002 7.3 power stroke all stock right now @160k black crewcab
Previous owner had a tunner on it but not anymore. Could it have smoke the trans???
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Does the 2002 7.3 have an automatic high idle in cold weather?When you start it after it runs for a few moments it goes into high idle until you hit the accelerator. I had a 96 powerstroke before this one,it didn't do this. Just wondering?
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My truck was shuddering in od. So as I last effort thinking it might be injectors I pulled all of them and replaced all of the orings and valve cover harnesses. After all of this was done seemed to do nothing at all. Now a new problem has surfaced. It's having idle problems. It will now idle at 780-850 instead of 650-700rmps. Also on deceleration it will miss pretty bad. Checked all of my injectors again all connections are good and all of the injectors are tight. Not burning any oil. So I unplugged the icp and bam runs like a top perfect running engine. So I bought a new one and plugged it in and itake doing the same thing. So what is going on! Also it was throwing a random check engine light but wouldn't bring a code up I'm completely lost....
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2000 F350 with 340000 on it, have had it for the last 140000. It's an old service truck from south west gas with one owner in between them and me and he put about 5000 on it. I have the big cylinder open air filter, billet compressor wheel, 4" exhaust all the way and an Edge tuner. Don't have any codes I can pull with the tuner. Have been good to me so fare only need regular maintenance, but always had smoke out oil filler with a little pulse.
2500 ago I changed oil and add 1/4 of Lucas oil. 3 days ago when I started in the morning it smoked white smoke out the exhaust as a steam train and idle rough, but cleared up as I went down the street and will do so every time I start cold or warm. Ok, might need new GP, did that yesterday yet the same. Now I start checking stuff and have smoke out the oil filler as a steam train so the cap won't stay.
I know it sound like alot of problems, just try to verify some of them. The smoke out oil filler is blow by? The smoke on start up is that related to bad injectors? Can a bad injector dumping fuel create the blow by? Coolant level ok Transmission fluid level ok Engine oil Rotella T6 added 3 quarter in 2500 miles. I do not have a scanner or any other advance test tools.
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I just replaced my up pipes, turbo pedestal O-ring, ICP, IPR, New O-rings in all my injectors and torqued to spec, new glow plugs, glow plug relay, oil loom wiring harness, new O-rings on oil cooler, oil filter, oil, and antifreeze. I have tried and tried on upwards of 75 or so time to get it to turn over. A little white smoke came out and it sounded like it wanted to fire up, but only a few times.
I have good batteries and a charger on it, 3-4 tries in 5-10 second bursts or longer if it doesn't lose power every 30 -hr. oil is in HPOP too. just found out my block heater is dead, but I shouldn't need it now. Tach moves a little when I crank it but only when my oil pressure gauge hits half way and that about the time it wants to start and starts white smoking.
2001 F-350 7.3 auto 2wd 4dr longbed 329,611 ml
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So I've been having issues with starting my truck lately. It was really hard to turn over, would start really hard when it did and would blow some black smoke. Turns out my starter was bad so I replaced it with a DB Electric high torque starter. Now it starts up great... for the most part.
I'm still having some black smoke when it's a cold start and/or I have the key set to "On" to warm the glow plugs for a few seconds. It's almost like the starter is turning over the engine, but for the first few turns it sounds empty or hollow (at least that's the best way I can describe it). After the first turns it will sound normal how it's supposed to and will fire up shortly after but with some black smoke.
If my car is already warm it cranks right up without any smoke unless I have the key set to "On" for a few seconds to warm the glow plugs like I said earlier. Pretty much if I warm the glow plugs it makes it harder to start up for some odd reason.
What might cause this or how to fix it? Maybe some of my glow plugs are going bad, or possibly my IDM? I used to have the P1670 code by itself, however, that went away when I replaced the starter. I also just replaced my camshaft position sensor just to be sure it wasn't going bad. I've also been having some boost pressure leaks if that's relevant at all.
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