Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Heater / AC Fan Running When Truck Is Turned Off
Feb 27, 2017
2003 CC 4x4 ... I am pretty sure I know what is going on, but I wanted to start a thread for when I confirm it. I am driving to work this AM and I hear the door ajar chime and I think to myself, uh oh...gauges all look good, there are no lights illuminated on the dash. I get to work and turn the truck off and my fan stays on. I think the ignition module is going bad. Either that, or my remote start is going on the fritz. I will update when I find out more.
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While stopped, engine running, in D, the engine cut off just like I turned the key off. I sat there for about thirty minutes and on the 7th or 8th try, the engine finally started. I drove it back to camp and thinking it might be the CPS, I swapped it out. Unfortunately it must be something else because I can't get it started anymore.
ICP and IPR are fairly new, but I unplugged the ICP and tried to start it anyway. It didn't choke out (like it was a fuel issue) but I checked the fuel bowl anyway and the pressure builds fine. I got it restarted once, so it can't be a fuse but I checked them all anyway.
Oil pressure builds to 780+ when cranking. Batteries still have plenty of cranking juice and without my AE, I'm frustrated beyond belief.
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A few weeks ago I replaced my CPS on the 99 7.3. Today was the first day I drove my truck in the rain. When I turned my wipers on, I noticed that I lost power and my truck started hiccuping. I read on these forums that an aftermarket CPS is most likely the problem, so I am planning on getting a ford CPS this afternoon. My biggest concern is that before I replaced my CPS, my wipers only had 2 speeds. Also, if I pressed the end of the blinker switch to squirt the cleaner the wipers would not turn off until I turned the truck off. I am not sure why this would be happening and I wanted to ask if there is more than just the CPS involved with this.
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When the block is cold my truck will not start. If i keep the block heater plugged in it will crank but is still a long start. I have tried just about everything i can think of and it is way too much to list so i will give as much info as i can.
New- gpr, glow plugs, HPOP, batteries, starter, fuses, valve cover harness/ injector and glow plug wiring, vacuum lines. I have checked out just about everything remotely possible.
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My 2001 f250 7.3 was running then just shut off like I had turned the key off, While trying to start back up, the truck turns over fine but no fire. I also have no gauges, I tested both fuse boxes and the one under the hood I have power on all big fuses, including the PCM but some of the small ones I don't, No power to the PCM diode, either side, the fuse box inside the cab, I have half power, No power to the PCM fuse is their a fusible link somewhere?
I really can't see much down there. The truck did get into a accident in Oct, which created a problem with the ignition and not sure if that could be a problem? That problem is, when I turn the vehicle off, it would stay running for a few seconds. I ignored the problem cause it didn't hinder the vehicle any.
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Traveling right now. Limited access to FTE.
On the way to the airport this morning at 4:30 am, the engine simply did while running down the interstate. Absolutely no symptoms leading up to it. Turns over fast but will not start. White smoke from tall pipe while trying to start.
I unplugged the fuel bowl heater and checked the IPR tin nut and the ICP sensor connections... Nothing obvious.
Problem was CPS and the engine is now running fine again.
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I had an HPOP line burst and soak the engine compartment with oil. I replaced the line and degreased the engine and rinsed it off. I started the truck and let it idle for 15 minutes or so before driving it. On the way home right after a shift it started chugging and running terribly. The check engine light was on as well. I limped it the mile or so home and shut it off. I restarted it and it runs just fine. I checked the DTC's with Forscan and there were a bunch of things that were mostly related to the HPOP and the MAT sensor that was shredded when the line blew. I left the hood open to dry out today and I'm hoping it is just some water in a connector. Does that sound plausible?
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I have changed pickup filter in tank and cleaned 2 tube filters in tank i thought that would fix it.
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I have a 2001 F350, 7.3. My service engine light came on and immediately the truck started to run rough and lose some power. I've checked the under the cover connections and they were both connected, I replaced the cam position sensor and I still have the same problem. The worse part of the hold thing is that there are no codes stored so I'm flying bind. Where to go next.
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This is wife typing in middle of trip. Today we drove almost 300 miles down the road before it stuttered. We lost the tach but nothing else. No check engine lights. It has done it a few times since. Watching with Torque and don't see anything there. Have 100 miles to go and it's happening more frequently. Replaced CPS 4 weeks ago with a Ford grey. Running down road it's 95 day. Oil was checked to be good at 211, transmission 182, EGT 790, pulling enclosed 6x12 cargo trailer. What can I check?
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Battery light comes on when the truck is running at less than about 1200rpm, but I see zero movement on the needle. Weird thing is i charged the batteries and tested the alternator with my multimeter and it was reading 14.1-14.2 which is nominal. Run it for about 10 min then it reads 12.3-12.8
I'm thinking a bad cell in the battery or alternator is going out. Oh and all the connections are tight, wires look good. 2001 f250 4wd 7.3 intake exhaust basic tuner gauges. Could the constant heat be a factor?
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I have a little problem with my 1999 f250 7.3 power stroke diesel. Every once in awhile, while driving the truck would die completely but i switch it into neutral and started right up. What could be the problem?
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2002 7.3L SD ... He told me when he was taking his son to school he turned on the heater. When he did this he could feel the truck lose power, he turned the heater off and it drove fine. Turned it back on and power loss happened again. I haven't driven it to test yet or see what is happening but I also don't understand how this can happen. The heater did get warm, and he does not have to add coolant to the system.
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The heater fan stopped blowing the other day. The fuses check out ok. What would be the most likely culprit after that? relay? Switch? Blower motor?
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I don't think that my block heater is working correctly if not at all.
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I am currently cab swapping my 2001 F250 with a 2005 350, I have everything installed but when I turn the key theres nothing... Dead in the water pretty much. I have power running to inside fuse panel but when I turn key there is nothing? no dash lights or anything, what I am missing or where I should be looking?
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My 2003 6.0 truck lost most of its power. It has the SCT programmer. It used to run great it would roll coal really well then it slowly started to run worse. Now it runs really sluggish especially when its cold. IT takes forever to warm up. On the freeway when ur going a constant speed it bucks and jerks a lot. It won't roll coal anymore and just runs like crap. A mechanic said I had 3 bad injectors. But I don't believe it.
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I have a 1999 7.3 super duty that won't crank when the key is turned. All lights work, power windows and mirrors work but after the WTS light goes out... Nothing...now I do have a slight leak in the roof and a little water does get in the cab. I opened my door the other day and it smelled like an electrical fire had occurred. I checked under the hood and the same smell, if not a little stronger. I pulled my fuse box and GEM tonight. Once I got away from the truck, I expected them to smell like the electrical fire smell, but they didn't. Now I did try cranking the engine over by jumping the starter relay before tearing the fuse panel out, and I got it to crank, but not strong at all. The batteries are good.
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While pulling onto the highway and pulling pretty hard lost engine power all boost then engine truned off. Top of engine is covered in oil..... What happened?
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I can't get my truck to start. The block heater isn't working and I previously put flush and water in it, intending to drive it and flush it directly after. Well I never really could drive it and now it won't start again. The weather is going to turn off cold, around zero this weekend. I need to know how to keep the block from freezing and cracking!
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I wanted to specifically ask about the block heater though. Since I bought this truck I never was able to start the truck without plugging it in. Now that it's not running I'm thinking much more about the block heater.
Is 56 too low for this old truck to start? What temp should a block heater have the oil temp as seen by AE be?
I live in the southwest so it's not very cold here. plugging in the heater was even required in the summer unless the truck had been running. What kinds of engine trouble would require being plugged in in warm conditions?
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