Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Hard To Get Clutch Into Gear At A Stop
Jul 16, 2016
Well, I think my clutch is falling apart. I am hearing an intermittent nasty noise coming from somewhere in the bell housing/oil pan area. It comes and goes, but seems to be more frequent lately. It sounds like a dryer that somebody threw a pair of sneakers and some rocks in; with a metallic clunking noise of something being "churned" around. As I said, sounds almost exactly like the dryer thing.
The clutch does not seem to be slipping, but I do occasionally have difficulty getting it into gear at a stop. I'm guessing that the clutch disc has thrown a hub spring, and its rattling around in the bell housing. Assuming I need a clutch; which I think I do, I need selecting one. I have no history on the clutch or flywheel, so I will assume that I need a new flywheel to match whatever clutch I get.
I can't get a stock replacement, due to the injectors/chip/etc.... I would estimate I am making about 350hp/700ft-lbs. I don't tow currently, but I may pull a car trailer in the future. I DO haul heavy loads in the bed (4,000lbs) on a regular basis. I also drive/shift aggressively, as well as shifting quickly. While I spend a decent amount of time on the highway, I also do a lot of stop and go stuck in traffic driving; so smooth engagement is important. So, no ceramic/ceramic in/out type clutches.
I do NOT want a South Bend. I don't want a super soft pedal. Also, the whole pedal-sticking-to-the-floor thing they mention is unacceptable. Personally, I think they should be ashamed of themselves for putting out a product with such an obvious unsafe design/engineering flaw, and then try to explain it away as "normal". Nope. They need to go back to the drawing board and fix that. As I said, it constitutes a serious safety hazard.
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I noticed my '99 started getting difficult to get in gear & shift, within a coupe of days the peddle was barely off the floor before it would engage. A day later it started 'creeping' if started while in gear. Replaced the master/slave cylinders with no change.
Is a clutch replacement the next step? Just thought I would ask before throwing money at it, since the only other times I've had clutch issues there was slipping or it just plain exploded.
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I have an early 99 F250 4x4 7.3L..... 4R100....
Brief history, a while back on way home from work I let off of the accelerator and had a loud gear meshing like grinding noise, got back on the accelerator and went away, let off and back, so I quickly stopped and pulled over, went through the gears and reverse, everything seemed ok,??? went on my way, got home parked the truck and went about my evening. came out next day to leave and truck wouldn't move in reverse, forward but not reverse. long story short I was told that the snap ring internally probably came out, I have heard of this being a big issue with these, so I set up for it to be rebuilt, got it back and installed and still same issue, what the crap so I ended up having to pull it back out and amongst my own trouble shooting I found the simple issue and was the nylon riders on the 4hi/4low shifter fork were completely gone and allowing the planetary group to free float in and out of 4x4 neutral!!! NOW on to the issue at hand. so far only thing has been done is rebuilt and those fork riders replaced.
now I can move but 2-3 upshift under a load(more noticeable) has a delay going from 2nd to 3rd and under a load it hits hard. I talked to the guy that rebuilt it and he said that the rebuild kits don't always the right springs for the valve body and causes shift issues, so he talked me into the shift corrector kit which I researched and did see what he was saying, so had that done and still no better, still does it, however, it does shift into the gear softer but didn't fix the delay or the hitting hard when it did finally go into 3rd.
After being forced to drive it that way I have since determined that what it happening is it is coming out of 2nd with a second and half pause and then shifting into 3rd, the hard shift comes in to play because during the delay the torque convertor is locking up making it a direct drive like popping the clutch on a standard!!!
I just swapped out the sol pack and I heard from a youtube video that the bolt next to the 2-3 upshift valve on the valve body could be to tight and making a sticky valve, so I re-torqued all the bolts and nuts put all back together and test drive proved to be worse, I now have same issue in all upshifts. all hit hard now, I am at a loss and don't know where to go from here, I can only imaging the sol pack is causing this but I have yet put my org one back in to see... oh and I found two bolts on the accumulator stripped and found one non torqued bolt on the main valve body!!
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I have had my truck for about 4 years bought it used. I've replaced the motor due to #1 cylinder blowing up. So after I replaced the motor, it wouldn't start. Replaced O rings on HPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump) and started. When moving back to Colorado where I am stationed. It started getting harder and harder to start.
Then it got to the point where it wouldn't start so I would have to wait until I could start it or use a shot of starting fluid and yes I hate that. But I don't have a choice. I've bought new O rings replaced them and my IPR with upgraded screen. It fixed it for a week then the hard start came back. Tried unplugging ICP Sensor still hard start problem. ICP was reading 85%. When the truck is cold it fires right up no problems till it gets hot! Then driving down the high and hitting an off ramp it will shut off. When I try revers it will also shut off. The truck only has 111,252 miles.
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What EOT temp should the fan clutch kick on at? I've never heard it kick on until a recent trip. It seems to go on about 228 degrees EOT and keeps the EOT below about 232 degrees.
At slow speeds I've found that the trans will heat up to this temp too. I assume because the radiator cooler is at that temp an there's not enough air flow for the air cooler to cool it down much?
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Odd question, but the a/c clutch has always engaged randomly even though the a/c is not on and even now when the heat is on. Is this normal?
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Is this the sign of a bad fan clutch? I can spin it by hand,and it goes round and round.Can I drive it like this until I replace it? I am only driving 30 miles round trip at night, not towing and outside temperature is usually about 100 degrees.
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Its freaking hot! Only getting about 65 degrees out of the vents at best. If I start up and let idle the a/c clutch goes on and off but not after i rev up the engine or drive a little ways . plenty of freon, and the air gap is tight with .020 and .021 feeler gauge. Should I still pull one of the shims? or is it something else? Last summer the truck was like a meat locker. I did have to add some freon about 6 weeks ago but seems to be holding ok...
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The fan clutch will come in and out rapidly when NOT in OD and pulling hills with the fifth-wheel attached. Replaced with a new aftermarket fan, then a new OE one. Then had the radiator pulled and all the bugs, etc. blown out. The condition has not changed at all. The original fan clutch was pretty sloppy. There are no codes, the trans fluid is nicely red, the engine does not overheat or even change temp when pulling hills. No check engine light ever. The truck is a 2001 F250 4 X 4 automatic extra cab with 7.3 engine without any modifications and runs perfect except for this. There are about 95k miles on odo. When we use overdrive on the flats, there is no issue.
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In my 99 with a zf6 it seems like when I push the clutch to the floor it's not disengaging all the way. It has a newer valair clutch in it maybe 15000 miles on it. It's really hard to get the truck in reverse or first from a stop. If the truck is stopped and it's in reverse or first with the clutch to the floor it will move in that gear. Is there a adjustment on the clutch? I'm thinking no since its hydraulic....
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I'm getting ready to swap my clutch and got to looking at the slave cylinder. I read somewhere that you have to rotate and twist it to get it out? Or something else? Also after reinstalling how do you get the slave plastic piece cut that holds the rod in? Or do you just push the clutch?
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Iam looking at a 2000 7.3 Powerstroke that has some problems first it is hard to start cranks like it has a dead cyl. Second after starting it has no power not even enough to move. At first it would only run if held wide open but once it warmed up it would idle and rev and move but barely still had a miss. The weird thing is it did not smoke blue-black or white also no strong smell of diesel and no smell of oil at all. The truck has 230ish miles and there are no maintenance records.air filter was new.
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I've got an E99 powerstroke. Recently it's been getting hard to steer, if not impossible. When I'm parked i can't turn the wheel and it gets better if i Rev the engine up, driving is usually ok and going around corners. It's just low speed, low rpm that it won't.
Also every once in a while when braking it feels like i lose all power brakes. The pedal goes to the floor and the brakes let go, then i can feel the pedal pump back up and i get a good feeling brake pedal again that actually stops well. All this happens within about a seconds time. But the steering is by far the worst.
I just did the power steering flush with atf and it didn't work. I'm thinking i need a new power steering pump, but want to ask here first to make sure. The truck has 290,000 on it, and it never has been replaced to my knowledge. I bought the truck with 147,000 however so it may have been done before that.
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Cruising down the street in my 7.3, i come to a stop, and I go to accelerate, and there's no power. It says "service engine soon" so if I try to turn it over again it'll just crank. But if I turn the key off and back on, it'll start right up. It's done this 3 times.
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What is failing. I have a 2000 F350 PSD with 116k miles. When I bought the truck last year, I noticed that the clutch pedal would squeak while it was coming off the floor. It doesn't happen when the engine is cold. I need to drive it about 30 min before it starts to happen. On longer trips, several hours, the squeaking is louder and the pedal gets very stiff. When I stop for fuel, I've come close to stalling when coming out of 1st gear. I can push the pedal to the floor, but on the way up, the pedal squeaks, and then once I reach a certain point, say 3-4 inches off the floor, the pedal looses all freeplay. The best way for me to describe it is the pedal travels up faster than it normally does when it's cold, and if I don't compensate with more throttle at that point, it will stall.
I've learned a lot by reading this forum for the past year, but I don't know the first thing about how to diagnose problems like this. I've taken it to 2 mechanics for test rides -- one thinks the clutch is fine and thinks the problem is the slave cylinder or a broken bushing in the pedal.
The other shop is also a small independent shop, but they specialize exclusively in Ford trucks, so I thought they would be more knowledgeable. But now I'm wondering if they could sense my ignorance and are taking advantage of the situation. They also took it for a drive, but they think the slave cylinder is fine and that the clutch needs to be replaced. I questioned him about the slave, and he pulled it to look at it, and asked me to push the pedal slowly while he was under the truck. I still had a little resistance and a faint squeak even in this situation. But he said the hydraulics are so simple that he felt we could rule that out. I can't remember exactly what he said, but I think he believes one of the springs in the clutch plate has failed. I just know they are suggesting a new clutch and they want to machine the flywheel to original specs.
I thought the leading symptom of a failing clutch was slippage under a load. So under strain, I would expect my engine to race occasionally, like I'm in neutral. But I've NEVER experienced anything remotely like this, even when driving hard in the hills pulling my travel trailer.
I know something is wrong, but based on my limited knowledge, I'm not sure what. It's getting a little harder for me to move the shifter into 1st and reverse, but once it's there it's fine. I've never experienced any racing or slippage in any gear. The one definite symptom I have is that squeaky pedal that when driven for a couple of hours, gets so stiff that it can cause near stall outs. With those symptoms, what do you think is going wrong?
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On 2500 mile trip, no A/C last 400 miles and we're cooking
Compressor clicking on/off about every 5 secs, clutch smell. Seems to be turning okay.
I brought some tools, including a full socket set.
Can I pull the clutch and remove shims in the campground? Looking for a condensed version of how?
Worst case, how do I replace the clutch- of I can find a dealer with one?
Pulley and clutch fixed, but cycling on and off...adding freon?
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So I have the luk full ceramic clutch now, this is my second one (about every year it needs replaced) and it's getting close to needing a new clutch again. Right now my 7.3 is sitting at 442hp and 864 TQ. Im Building a forged rod motor with the idea of getting 5-550 HP to the wheels out of it and hitting the 1000 TQ mark. What clutch will hold that and not chatter and try to knock my teeth out like my current clutch. The closer to a stock clutch engagement feel the better, I hate backing up or starting out with a load more than 10k (I have to start in low, or 4wd low to backup). Truck is a 01 crew cab, on 35's stock gears may be going to a 6" and 37's in the future but that's it.
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I am looking for a how to vid or resource on doing the job right. I purchased the complete replacement master cylinder from Napa. 2002 7.3 Powerstroke
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I drive a new to me 2005 F350, he has a 2001 F350. While we were talking he said he didn't think his pickup had the power it should have. He pulls a 5th wheel camper that weighs around 8000 pounds fully loaded. He said it takes a couple of miles to get to 55 mph, and it is hard to hold the speed. It doesn't have the power it did when he first got it last year. He was told that a diesel is slow getting started. He rode with me in mine, when I dropped it about half throttle to pass a slow car he said he could tell mine had way more power.
His check engine light is not on, it starts good both when hot and when cold. It runs smooth, no miss as far as I can tell listening to it. What are some common issues that could cause this? He did just change the oil and fuel filters, not sure about the air filter. He said the power loss came before he serviced the engine, and did not improve after the fuel filter change. Where to start? He was also told to check the filter inside of his fuel tank, so he is getting ready to drop his tank.
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We have a 2002 7.3 f350 2wd this darn thing is now tripping me out. At first when ou start the truck its all good but when it warms up the idle is funky when you go to stop at a lite its like im power breaking and rough idle once stopped the idle is about between 800 and 900rpms at a stop really high idle but plenty of power on take off...
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I have a 1997 F250 heavy duty 4x4 7.5 efi. I just bought a 2003 weekend worrior weighing 5800lbs dry. When I go up slight hills in 4th gear it seems to work real hard especially on freeways, could my clutch be slipping or am I just at max tow
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