Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: HPOP Leaking / Return Line Coming Off
May 2, 2015
My HPOP was leaking so I pulled it our last weekend along with the fuel bowl and put all new seals in. All my previous leaks are sealed but now this stupid fuel bowl is being a major PIA.
The return line coming off the FPR will not stop leaking! It was slowly dripping when I first replaced the bowl and I thought the leak was between the fuel bowl and FPR housing. I ordered new rings and put it back together.... still leaking.
I wrapped a towel around the fuel fitting and realized that is were the leak is actually coming from. I went to the parker store today and got 3 new 60VL5 sleeves. The first one tore while sling over the fuel line (I was using 2cycle oil as lubricate). The second one leaked even worse.
In a desperate attempt to stop the leak, I slid the sleeve onto the fuel line as far back as it would go. I inserted the fuel line into the bowl and then put a thin coat of rtv on the exposed fuel line. I slid the sleeve over the rtv and then put a light coat of the outside of the sleeve. I tightened the nut up and am waiting for things to dry before trying again.
Why is this fitting giving me such a hard time? I've pulled the FPR housing and it is not cracked so I don't know what the deal is.
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New to me early 99 (4/98) f350 7.3 6 speed. Truck started acting up a few days after I bought it. Return line at fuel bowl was leaking, so started there and found a bad seal on the Fpr (unrelated to the fuel leak due to disentegrated compression sleeve). Fast forward through a bunch of parts swapping that still resulted in miserable lift pump pressure readings, I pull the sending unit out of the tank, expecting to find a plugged screen.
Well, there was in fact a plugged screen... Attached to the bottom of an in-tank pump. How did that get there?!? Everything I've read says there should only be a pickup tube??? Should I get a new sending unit from a junkyard and do the hutch mod or???
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My passenger side braided line from the HPOP to the passenger head decided to rupture. Got 300k on the clock so that recommended 100k change interval is on the low side. Do I need the 'special tool' to remove the line from the HPOP and what is the current recommendation on a replacement line?
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I am rebuilding the oil cooler and noticed since its removed I have great access to this fuel line pair from fuel bowl to soft lines below. How these disconnect at the soft lines? I happen to have a new set waiting to be installed. Is there a tool required ?
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What are the hose lengths for the 2 HPOP and cylinder head oil crossover line? How about what size oring boss fittings you need into the head?
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I did the extended seal kit and non-serviceable plug on my HPOP and now the CEL is on. It is throwing the below codes. The truck in all reality runs fine and even a little better on a cold start than before resealing, just the CEL is on.
P1280
P1209
P1282
P1212
P1211
I cleaned the IPR when it was out when I put new seals on it but could it go bad by just taking it apart? The ICP and IPR are definitely plugged in. The truck is all stock, no chips.
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I have a 7.3 and I think it's leaking oil out of the HPOP but I'm really not positive.
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Well my hpop is cracked and leaking alot I need to get home this sucks I must of tighted it too hard
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about to fix my leaking HPOP and step up to an Adrenaline. Looking at replacing the discharge fittings when I do and have a quick question. Dieselsite instructions say the oring seals it and to only run it down to where the fitting body touches the pump. Diesel orings instructions say the 680 locktite does the sealing and to torque to 25 ft/lbs.
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Pretty sure my rear plug is leaking on my HPOP. It has a nylon washer under it which is different than what I have seen on all the write ups. I bought the truck with 189k on it five years ago.
I attached a photo....
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Last couple of days I've been chasing a small oil leak. Finally figured out it's coming from one of the hoses connected to the lower part of the hpop (hpop hose). Leak is coming from the fitting connected to the lower part of hpop. Do I need to replace the whole hose and fitting? Just the fitting? is there a replaceable washer or oring?
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I bought a 2003 F250 7.3 Powerstroke from a buddy of mine with 99,500 miles. It is a former Michigan truck and has some significant rust issues. Oil pan and drivers door will need to be replaced in the not too distant future. And probably bed rails later too.
In any case, I noticed a puddle of tranny fluid on the driveway when I got home today. The passenger side line at the fitting into the bottom of the radiator has corroded through. The fitting into the radiator is pretty rusty, and the line fitting is darn near destroyed. The line itself actually has a hole in it.
I see the same part numbers on different sites with different descriptions. Driver side here, passenger side there, inlet here, outlet there. For the same number.
As near as I can tell, Dorman number 624-059 is the outlet line from the tranny to the passenger side radiator fitting, and should be the part I need. Correct? Dorman 624-058 seems to be the line from the OTA auxiliary cooler and back to the tranny. What I cant find is the line from driver side radiator to the OTA cooler. That fitting is corroded bad too, and I may as well do both of them.
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The fuel line on the passenger side under the turbo that leads to the head is leaking looks like from rubbing on the pedestal, anyone ever just cut it and throw in some fuel line and hose clamps?
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A good friend of mine just bought a 2003 xlt with the 6.0 and has an oil leak at the HPOP cover as far as he can tell. Looking for a good write up that explains how to get to where we need to go. Also maybe a list of o-rings and gaskets that will be needed on the journey. Is there anything else that may need attention while we are in that deep. I have read about the SVT fitting but not sure what that is or where. The EGR has been deleted.
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Someone stopped by the shop today with a problem with the power steering leaking. I checked it out and the return line from the rack to the pump is rusted through and needs to be replaced. The pressure line looks just as bad and will develop a leak soon too, if not replaced. While chatting the customer revealed that while stuck with no power steering, he put motor oil into the reserve tank because that's all he had. It did get him home. My plan is to replace the pressure line first, then cut the return line below the car (where it can be accessed better). Then use my evacuator.
hooked to the return line from the rack. Start the siphoning and fill the reserve tank with the proper fluid to flush everything out. I figured that it would flush the reserve tank, pump, pressure line, and rack. Then replace the return line and top off the tank. Will I have to have the engine running while I flush, and do I need to work the steering wheel left and right too.
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I have a problem. I have a nylon return fuel line that is SHOOTING out fuel at the quick connect at the fuel pump. See video: [URL] ....
How do I repair? I think the o-rings in the quick connect went bad. I'm thinking to dip the connector in hot water to soften up the nylon, take the old connector off, and put a new connector on. What size connector I need?
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Have a 2007 V10 and I want to put in a Magnafine tranny filter. Instructions say to plumb it in to the return line. Which one is this, top or bottom?
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I have a 1989 Ford mustang 4 cylinder. The return line tofuel tank is leaking. I am wondering if I need to treat the return line as a "high Pressure line" or if I can repair with regular rubber fuel line and hose clamps.
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Ok. I have a 2015 6.7 power stroke and my fuel return line clip keeps falling off. And goes into limp mode. It has happen twice and in come up with code p0088. And I push it back on start the truck and it is fine. But idk why it is doing it
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I started "Hard Start at Operating Temperature" you can probably tell that 300k has done a number on my HPOP. I'm wondering what to do... do I buy a new pump from ford? Buy from ebay? Or is there a good pump rebuilder in the Portland metro area? I've heard they are almost impossible to rebuild.
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So I have a 2002 7.3 Excursion and I think it is low on power. ICP is falling on its face when on a 60 or 80 HP tune. I have some boost leaks at the plenums and will work on that but that shouldn't cause my ICP to tank at full throttle. Following are some numbers I pulled with WOT runs up a 6% grade.
16PSI BOOST
EXHAUST PRESSURE 40
ICP 1900
80%IPRDC
this is with the 60 or 80HP tune on my DP-tuner. If I ease into the throttle I get
2700 ICP with
45%IPRDC
but if I stomp on the throttle it stumbles and ICP tanks.
Running the stock tune I can maintain
2700ICP at
40-45%IPRDC
Is this my HPOP being weak, or worn out injectors, to much of a tune or a combo of all three?
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