I'm trying to get my truck smogged and having problems w/po475. A friend of a friend said it was the DFPE sensor. So I bought one but can't find where it goes. On YouTube it is only listed for F150's and gas motors it seems. I have a 00 f350SD 7.3, do I even have a DFPE and if so where is it located.
View 7 RepliesI went and got my truck smog and it failed because of this code. I then changed the sensor cleaned out the tube and I still can't figure out how to get rid of the error code?
View 3 RepliesWell I thought my truck was 100%, and I was going to installed a Chip. I decided to get my Forscan up and running to check and make sure.
The Buzz test Passed with no problems.
The cylinder contribution did not pass. I got error code P1464, which Forscan said that #8 failed. FYI, I turned the A/C on and the test failed. I ran it again with the A/C off and it failed again. I might have the wrong code
I then went to where you could select the gauges to view(PID's). And I saw where you could select all the cylinders injectors individually. I forgot what it was called, but all injectors were reading close to 0.0% at idle except for #8 it was reading 5.55% to 5.88%.
I am hoping this is good news, since I rather the injector be bad then a piston ring or valve. I just got the Forscan and was wondering what other test or other things I could check to narrow the problem down before removing the Valve covers. The truck runs great and there is no miss and it turns over smooth. No blowbye, just runs great. It is a 2000 F-350 dually with just over 202,000 miles
2000 truck, 334k, automatic 2wd, stock. Have low power, 11psi max.
Permanent p0472 code, can't clear it even temporarily. The moment I turn the key to Acc, code is there. It's the only code showing on Forscan.
Tried 470ohm 1/2watt resistor, in two turbo pedestal sensor connector wires, no change. Forscan shows 0.0-0.6 psi EBP value when running.
No change with pedestal sensor plugged or unplugged. Resistor or not. Truck starts and runs good, low power is the only issue.
Sensor and tube are new. Seems like wiring is bad, where to look next to track this down?
I have looked at several different diagrams of the wiring in my 99.5 powerstroke and I cannot find my abs computer anywhere, where it is?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2001 F350 XLT with cloth seats. In 2003 I upgraded those seats to power seats.
- When I upgraded to power seats I did not run a new power wire. Since my 2001 was at least fused for power and heated seats I located the Power seat 30amp power wire.
- That wire is located on engine compartment fuse #15 (Circuit 5298 as I recall) and Dark Green. It comes through the firewall and runs down the drivers side kick panel along the floor and then intersects with the power and ground seat belt wires that ran under the seat.
- The ground wire was coiled and attached to a ground stud behind the drivers side kick panel.
About a month ago I had a mouse get in and chew my seat wiring to shreds. I built my own harness and am good to go there, however since I had these seats all apart I decided to replace the foam and add HEAT.
So that brings me to the specific question. In the engine compartment fuse box, there is a 30amp positive wire for Heated seats. My schematic says it is a 14 gauge wire RD/BK on circuit 1153.
Where in the heck is this wire? I have literally tore the dash apart looking for this wire.
- I have verified the following with my fluke continuity tester.
- It is not part of the four customer access wires that drop on the right side of the interior fuse panel.
- It is not part of the tow wire bundle.
- I have checked the bundle that the Dark Green Power seat wire is in and there are no RD/BK wires in that bundle. I also poked the other 2 14 gauge (Yellow/Blue) wires in that bundle and verified they are not them.
-I have checked the three wire bundles behind the passenger side glove box and was unable to locate.
- I have verified it is not stored behind the compartment below the cigarette lighter.
I am looking for info which wire I am talking about and knows where Ford stored them when not used by having the XLT Trim with cloth seats. Yes I am aware that I can run an additional wire with a 30 amp fuse to the batter, but I would prefer to use the system and fuse that was designed for this.
How can I tell if my truck has a cabin filter and where would it be located? I looked through the OM but it was little to no luck....
View 3 RepliesI have searched everywhere for the location of the blinker relay on my 02 F-250 7.3 and getting mixed results and still not found.
View 14 RepliesI purchased one of the No Start relay for my 2000 Ford F-250 Turbo diesel and need assistance finding the relay to replace.
Originally I thought it was for the fuel pump then then discovered it replaces the ignition relay.
According to the company it's located on the passenger side under the hood. Can't find any fuses there.
I looked in the user manual and found nothing about an ignition relay. Just "PCM Relay Coil, Ignition Coil (Gasoline only), Fuel Heater (Diesel only), Wastegate Solenoid (Diesel only), Injector Driver Module Relay Coil"
The relay I purchased is from: "No Start" Relay, "No-Start" Intelligent Relay System, Vehicle Theft Deterrent
I'm getting ready to put in my new double din and it said to hook the wire for the camera up to the reverse light wire. Which one this is on the harness coming out of the column?
View 14 RepliesStory starts when I was cruising down the freeway and the truck cut out, seemed like a CPS or Injector related issue - seemed like a whole cylinder bank cut out. Stopped truck on shoulder, she shuttered and died. Turned truck off and restarted, ran like a top for about 4 miles then did the same again. I restarted it again and drive it straight home, ran like it I usually did.
As soon as I arrived home I did a little research and learned to start with CPS. I replaced my grey CPS with a new, Ford grey CPS. Truck fired up, ran the same that it did before - not the best idle but at 302k I was content. Drove it for a few days and it did it again, hobbled the truck home, although it did do it a few times and the last time it did it was really hard to start.
I replaced the IDM through NAPA. She's a work truck so I wasn't going to splurge for a Swamp Unit, the NAPA one came with an 18-Month Warrenty. She started right up afterward, the smoothest idle I had ever felt and she ran great, except for an SES. I ran the code and it was an IDM code, ran a buzz test and it pulled injector #5 high/low error, but it buzzed (a bit quieter than the others).
Here's the weirdest part, when the motor is cold the SES is constant, but as it warms up it only shows under power and sometimes flashes off at certain RPMs (1700-1900 and 2100-2300) and turns off when engine braking (TC locked) returns at idle. NO engine lights with the old IDM. I've checked the wiring to the injector from the 42-pin to the outer connector. (.6-.7 ohms, what my meter reads without any loads) Injector (from outer connector) reads 3.2 ohms. UVCH is less then 2 months old (GP issues) injectors have less than 5k on them.
Why? New injector solenoid? Bad IDM? Is it possible my last one never fired #5 and it got stuck? Or did my old IDM fry #5? Also I'm going to keep driving it and maybe it'll clear up, there was one drive I took where it cleared up completely. I've done some extensive research on this an i'm stumped. With the new IDM the truck has run better then it ever has.
Where the fuel pump is located on a 2000 F-350 7.3L Diesel? Also, how complex is replacing this?
View 14 RepliesTruck wont start idm communication error all the fuses are good and the relay seams good I switched it out with another relay 340,000 miles how do I know if its the IDM r not... I'm sure the idm is not cheap...
View 2 RepliesI had new glow plugs installed 3 weeks ago. Ran fine since. Today, first cold day. No start, oil pressure gauge does not move off zero, interceptor reads ICP 126. Oil level is good. WTS light does come on. Checked fuse 19 as I saw on another thread, it is good.
P1670 and 0381. My ford software is down, trying to reinstall. As soon as it is reinstalled, I can go thru the step process?
My CEL is on and I pulled this code...I made the mistake of using a Hypertech programmer and the code came on soon after. I do have a stock code I saved from my SCT, would it fix it if I put it back in?
View 14 RepliesHere's the story. Truck has showed no signs of rough running. Wife drives truck around town. Truck up to temperature and doing fine on a 90 degree day. Stops at red light. Makes left turn engine light comes on truck seems to be running on 4 cylinders. Pulls over light goes off engine idles perfect. Pulls back on road light on no power. Gets truck to a local friends house lets it sit til I get off work.
I check for codes get p1316. Drive truck toward my house no problems for 4-5 miles then does the above with me. Limp it home. I know it is pointing at a wire problem to injectors and or IDM. Did a buzz test passed fine. Plan on pulling valve covers and looking for the usuall things. Any thing I am missing? What will a kOEO test tell me? Should I run one? How common is IDM to go out? One last thing just put a rebuilt transmission in it 3 days ago may be unrelated it seems to be doing fine.
2003 f-350 cc 7.3.
As I was getting ready to leave town with the tractor loaded up, I was accelerating with the turbo spooling up when I heard a bit of a pop and lost power (engine still running and all, just very low power like you get when the turbo fails). I wasn't far from the shop so I came back and started getting a lot of white smoke out of the exhaust, it doesn't smell like diesel, probably more like oil. Definitely smoke, not coolant. I pulled it around back and shut it down to go grab AE and scan it and it shows a P0475, starting it back up has light smoke at idle and it idles fine but as soon as you give it any throttle it starts smoking pretty badly.
Researching it looks like the most likely cause for this is the EBPV itself but before tearing it down that far. This is the only code it's showing.
Truck has 272k on it, turbo was rebuilt a couple of years ago but we didn't do anything with the pedestal at that time. I guess in retrospect, I probably should have done the EBPV delete and the resistor fix then but I didn't think about it at the time.
On another note, my AE is not showing any of the system test for some reason, the drop down is blank. I have version 7.0.1, so it's an old version but I'm working on an old truck, so... What that might be? I've got the truck pulled into the shop now to let it cool down. I'll probably let it sit overnight and take the turbo and EBPV out tomorrow unless someone has a better suggestion...
What do I do? Do I need a new IDM?
View 3 RepliesTruck was towed into my shop for no start. Mechanic diag as hpop pump. He is no longer here. R&R hpop with thourobred reman pump. Truck still a no start. only code is for EBP. Spacer is behind tin nut of ipr. Starter spins motor as it should. No blown fuses. WTS light works. No oil in icp or ipr sensors. GPR voltage is good. Tach moves when cranking. Disconnect ICP still no start and has 65% duty cycle. IPR has 500-1000psi the first 2sec of cranking then it drops and fluctuates 180-480. Add direct power to ipr and get 660psi the first 2sec of cranking then drops
View 9 RepliesThe new to me 2012 dually has lost its keyless entry code card. I know on the 08-10 models you could look up behind the radio to see the code. Looking for physical location on the 6.7 family?
View 8 Replies6.0 diesel 83,000 miles. My CEL is always on and my Edge gauge says it's lower than expected Mass air flow. I've changed the filter, cleaned the MAF with special cleaner and then replaced with new. I've replaced the EGR valve.
If I clear the codes and run it I don't get a CEL until I turn it off. But the next time I start it, there it is again. My Edge reads 0.0-0.3 MAF while running but what that means. One end of my cleaner box is slightly warped but I can't feel any noticeable leakage.
Everything runs fine but I would like to regain the ability to have that idiot light available to tell me if I have a new problem.