Having trouble getting large plastic nut to start threading on top of the fuel tank sending unit, after doing in tank mods.
It just doesnt seem to want to start threading on properly. Its always cocked when it grabs, and after a while opposite side pops up and it falls off. Not sure how to get it back on there
Dealer has new ring for 18 bucks, maybe mine is warped or dried up since 2000?
My fuel filter lid o-ring keeps blowing out upon hot start, this has happened 4 times now once last week, I replaced filter and all was ok until Thursday it happens again I change the filter allis fine! Now today!!!!! TWICE I have to install new filters because the o-rings are blowing outside the bowl lid! I'm using the same BALDWIN PF7698 filters I've used for years, my reg. Is set at 75psi and holds steady! No spikes but I haven't been able to watch it when the o-ring blows out! Injectors and o-rings are new (<1000miles) no problems during operation at all!
View 14 Replies1/4 tank just kept cranking. Added some diesel and started right up thought it was bad fuel gauge. Went about a mile and shut down just off. coasted went got more diesel but this time cranked but no start. anti theft light was flashing too.
Towed home started right up after tow... Starting now... Tomorrow was going to change the fuel filter....
So my 7.3 started sputtering and lost power, died on the side of the road. I wasn't far from home put about 8 gallon of diesel in the tank with a couple of fuel jugs and it fired right up.
Gauge was reading 1/8 of a tank and low fuel light did not come on. (low fuel light comes on when you start) Gauge came up to about 1/2 after putting fuel in.
What happened? Gauge was always reliable and low fuel light always did work. Only work done to fuel system was had new tank straps put on a couple of months ago.
From diagnosis we are pretty sure we have clogged fuel pick ups in the tank of my 99 7.3 Dually. So in I go to clean and repair or replace depending on what it looks like once we get in there.
We have most of the fuel out of the tank, pumped out just over 30 gallons.
I don't have a lift so this is being done on the ground, any easier way ? The bed bolts look pretty rusty and funky but we have been spraying them down with Kroil, the magic elixir, for a couple days to see if that will ease the removal of the fasteners.
Take the Bed Off and work with the tank in the frame or drop the tank out and work away from the truck ?
What it is or why there is a three inch pull handle hanging down on the bottom of the Diesel Tank on my niece new 2012 F350??? It is sitting hanging there begging to be snagged and ripped off the bottom of the tank!!!!! I'm at least going to Gorilla Tape it up to the bottom of the Tank.
View 10 RepliesI've been having a very erratic fuel gauge issue as of about 2 months ago. My fuel level would register full, when in fact I knew it only had 1/2 a tank or so. Then 5 minutes later it would be pegged on full. Under a 1/2 tank the gauge would read any where from 1/2 to empty from 1 minute to the next. So last week I decided to drop my tank and take a look. I was thinking maybe my fuel sender was broken, maybe a loose wire in the tank, or even that my float had dropped off in to the tank.
After dropping the tank, I removed the PK-Up and sending unit and everything was intact. I placed my ohm meter on the sending unit and it checked out fine. So I took the Pk-up and rolled back up underneath the truck and plugged it back in. I had my son turn the key on and off while I moved the float to different levels in order that it would register. It registered empty, 1/4/, 1/2, 3/4 and full just fine as I moved the float to those levels. If you leave the key in the run position and move the float, it won't register or better said, the in cab gauge will not adjust with the movement.
You have to turn the key off move the float and hold it there, then have your assistant turn the key on and the gauge will show the position that you've moved and held it at. I simply removed the plastic cover from the sending unit, and sprayed it down real good with electrical contact cleaner. I didn't scrub the copper contact area at all.
I was concerned that scrubbing might remove more than I wanted to, and really mess things up. I attached an Ohm meter and checked resistance thru out the float travel. All checked out good and I reinstalled it. So now my fuel gauge is working as it should be. I did make a video while I ohmed the Sender Unit thru it's travel, but for some reason it won't load.
[URL] ....
I'm sure there is something on this somewhere but can't seem to find. Getting ready to change injector o rings and see where people say to drive it 200 miles to get it running right again. Well, I am in the process of a conversion and have no tags or insurance on the truck. Trying to fix issues before I spend that money on it because don't know how much I am going to have to put in it to fix the issue's.
Is there a way to bleed out the air so I don't have to drive it 200 miles? Also, how long will it smoke after the injector change to see if it is actually fixed? I know I should probably see a big difference is ICP,IPR and such. Already know it has leaks in the turbo up pipes which will have to be dealt with too.
I have a 1999 7.3 psd F-450. It's rigged out for welding with a Lincoln SA-200 engine driven welder. My overall weight is approx. 11,500 lbs. and I rarely tow with it. It has a 4 speed automatic and 4.89 ratio gears in it now. I bought it with 245/70/19.5 tires. Stock size is 225/70/19.5. I am going broke trying to keep the fuel light from staying on all the time, and I am considering changing the gear ratio. My questions are; Is this a wise investment, as far as cost vs. gain? I also need to know if it may create a higher risk of other mechanical failures? I need to research what other ring and pinion ratios can be used in the ford 10.5 12 bolt rear axle. Money is hard to come by these days, and even harder to keep. I cannot afford a costly mistake if the funds can be more effective elsewhere.
View 14 Replies01 7.3. Cranks, won't start. Tank was at 1/4 but is full now. The lift pump runs, I can feel and hear that the motor is spinning when I cycle the key. I removed the fuel filter and cycled the key and get no fuel into the bowl. It looks like the lines are stainless from the pump to the tank so I doubt it is sucking air. I pressurized the tank with a shop vac and I get fuel coming into the filter housing. Am I missing something obvious? I have never seen an electric pump that would run and not pump fuel. I removed the suction line at the pump and don't feel any suction there.
View 14 RepliesMy 99 F350 cranks, but won't start, and the "water in fuel" light on the dash stays on while cranking. I have never paid close attention to it in the past. Is it supposed to be on while cranking?
I drained the water from the yellow lever located on top of the engine, and tried to start it. The light went off for the first few cranks, but again the truck still will not start.
I just came from a 10 hours round trip to NC. I filled the truck up two times from gas stations on the way. Is it possible that the fuel is bad? I drove on the same fuel almost 3/4 of this tank and now at the last 1/4 I am having this issue.
A little update:
I took the top of the fuel bowl off to see what the filter looks like, and it is nasty and completely black. I could not tell if the fuel in the bowl contained any water, but it looks greenish and uniform, no the obvious separation that happens when you mix water and oil.
Could the fuel filter be the problem?
A little history about the truck. It's always hard to start if cold and not plugged in overnight. I know it's the glow plugs relay, so I just keep it plugged in all the time until I get a chance to fix it.
IDM was acting up shutting off half of my engine, but I took it off, cleaned it, plugged it back in and it has been working fine for over 2 months.
I recently purchased a 2003 F250 Super Duty with a 6.0L Powerstroke Diesel. The truck came with an auxiliary fuel tank in the bed, but how it works. There is a keyed switch in the cab next to another regular switch, and I have not had the courage to try either of them yet since the whole thing looks like a DIY job. I did look under the truck, and can see what appears to be some sort of solenoid setup.
Just wondering, how it works and if it is safe to operate. I do not see any rollover valve, and want to make sure I do not overfill the tank if I use it.
Shut my truck off for about 15 minutes and wouldn't start back up. Installed new fuel filter. And gonna try changing cps. Torque says Rpm 180
Ipw. Bouncing between 600 - 3000 Hpop. 250 while cranking Voltage 10.9 while cranking. Ipr starts about 15% and slowly climbs to about 88%
Fuel pressure about 65%
Tried unplugging cps. Gonna check oil now though I check it every time I fill up and it never uses any.
I recently bought a used 2015 F250. When the fuel level reached 1/4 tank it became hard to start. Sometimes up to 6 seconds of cranking to get it to start. I filled it up with fresh diesel and it fired up as soon as I turned the key. A week later the problem returned, this time I was above 1/2 tank. I run the recommended additives, I changed both fuel filters, but it didn't work. I have only had the truck 3 weeks, and it still has a warranty. There are no fault codes, and the truck run great once started. What could be wrong.
View 7 RepliesI just got delivered a 7.3L from down south. Batteries were dead so replaced both. Fuel was a couple notches above red line (much closer to red line than 1/4 tank) so I added about 7-8 gallons.
It will crank forever and ever...Won't start.
With starter fluid it starts but not strong enough to pump the pedal and rev it up to keep it idling.
I know s-fluid is bad but if I continuously spray with key turned forward it will run but as soon as I let go of key it shuts off.
20 degree weather and it was delivered to a parking lot so I cannot plug it in.
Was told to check filter cap, turn key, and see if it fills bowl with fuel....if not then it is fuel pump. Someone else mentioned that it could be bad crank position sensor? Does this sound like fuel pump?
I have a 2006 F250 c/c LB and I am curious, how much fuel is left in the tank when the low fuel light comes on?
View 8 RepliesJust started. Replace fuel pimp and bracket 8 months ago. Now, three times in two days ...freely cranks, but does not fire. It has been suggested by a key man that my ignition key "Ring Transponder(??) is failing, about a $50.00 part.
Any links to a step-by-step to where I could do this myself? ($$$). I don't know what to call it, so it makes it hard to search online. the part he referred to in under my ignition switch shroud...but that"s all I know. (I was driving when I talked to him and forgot the exact term he used (I'm old, and easily confused by anything post ignition points and condenser)
This applies to a 2001 F-350 with 73,000 miles on the engine. Engine oil level is good, batteries charged, HPOP reservoir is full and passes Cody test with flying colors. Fuel pump runs for 20 seconds at key on. Start takes about 6 seconds. If I shut the key off and restart immediately it starts in under 2 seconds but if I wait about 30 seconds it's a 6 second start. Here is an AE that I ran on it, it has me stumped. FWIW it seems to start quicker when AE is hooked up. ?? An odd whir type of noise comes out from somewhere under the hood when I first turn the key on and when I clear the codes with AE.
View 14 Replies2011 F4 56.7 L diesel will not allow fuel in the tank.
View 14 RepliesICP and IRP changed both fuel filtrs and Blue spring put in. HPOP Pressure is over 1600PSI when cranking with 2.5 to 4 volts.
Will try to run but acts like not getting enough fuel. If I loosen the lines off the upper filter housing lots of fuel runs out. Lots of smoke when cranking also.
FICM volts are 48.5.
Reading with Scan Gauge 2.
The truck is a 2003 F350 DRW Stock 6.0 with 433000 on the odometer.
When I fuel up and open the cap on the filler neck I always hear a hiss. Never could figure if it was pressure or vacuum. Today, after changing oil, I opened my fuel filter bleeder to check for water and it just started slurping and gurgling with no diesel coming out. I lowered the truck, removed the fuel tank filler cap and heard the hiss. Raised back up and opened the filter bleeder and diesel came out. I now know the hiss is a vacuum. Is this normal? If this tank is vented I have a problem somewhere.
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