Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Fuel Sending Unit Connectors
Mar 20, 2016
I recently dropped my tank and one of the connector clips broke taking it off. How can I find anther connector or clip, I have looked at the ford dealer, napa and oriellys with not luck. It seems as if they don't exist. The ford dealer wants me to buy a new fuel line. Also I did something that now I know is not good but I cut the connector out to take to the parts stores and they said that it can not be put back together. Is this true?
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So I did the hutch mod several months ago and all was fine.. Couple days ago I went to fill up, cheap diesel, for upcoming trip.
Fuel gauge was working and showing just less than 1/2 tank. Went to Walmart with gift card and started pumping. Got to talking with duramax owner and noticed fuel was finished. did not pop off like the level was high in fill tube just can to end of money..
SO I get in, turn on key to get mileage to mark down miles, gallon, amount etc and noticed the fuel gauge look like it wanted to go up and then it drops to "E" and the fuel light comes on..
Yesterday I drop spare and check sending unit connection which was OK so must be issue with sending unit. ?? So I might need to take camper shell off, fiberglass, and lift bed.. too much fuel in tank and not going to be driving it enough to get down. What size are the bolts holding bed to frame and how do I need do this??
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I've read some treads on the temp gauge sending unit but I'm a little foggy on where to look for my problem. I just purchased a 2000 F250 7.3, temp gauge not working. It has a new sending unit. I read some threads about the voltage at the plug but I have no voltage on either side of the plug. The way I understand it red/white wire goes to the battery. Is there a fuse between them and which one is it? and if fuse is ok is there a cronic problem that someone might know of that I can look for?
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I've got a 2003 F250, SD, 5.4L Triton that I've owned since new. It has 205,000 kms on it and has run flawlessly since owning it.
Yesterday I went to use the truck after it sitting for about 2 weeks, which isn't uncommon for this time of year as I'm in the landscaping business. It never sits long, though as I make a point of using all the trucks, periodically, just to "blow the stink off" as my Dad would say.
Anyway, when I fired it up the gauge was drop-dead below "E" so I go to fill it up and it takes in fuel and it won't take a drop more. I got under the truck and knocked on the tank in various spots and the tank seems almost plum full.
When I power the truck off and back on, all the gauges come to life and settle on their appropriate readings, except for the fuel gauge. It powers up to full and then drops to below "E" as though I had turned the truck off again.
My question is, am I reasonably safe to assume my sending unit has bitten the dust? I figured that since the gauge comes to life upon startup and then drops to "E" after the rest of the gauges initialize, the fuel gauge itself probably isn't the problem?
Is there a chance that as I drive it over the next few days, and the tank empties, maybe the "sloshing" of fuel might dislodge a stuck part?
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I figured I would try my hand at making a video because I find them useful.. Anyway, if you plan on dropping the DEF tank and /or replacing the heater/sending unit.
2011 -2014 Ford DEF tank removal / sending unit replacement - YouTube
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Will the oil pressure switch (sending unit) on my E series van be in the same location as on an F series truck even though the van's oil filter is under the engine instead of on top? I'm referring to the single wire sender for the dash gauge.
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I have finally gotten my 93 Explorer back on the road. Now I have a few things that I am trying to get fixed.
The first things that I need to get repaired is my Fuel Sending Unit replaced. How hard is this and what kind of pitfalls am I looking at.
The problem that I am having is that my fuel gauge is never right. The other day I ran out of gas, but the gauge said full. Go firgure.
Anyway I have been told that the problem is my sending unit in the fuel tank. So is there any advise on this repair.
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Replaced fuel pump which is fine now, but installed new lock ring and gasket and getting fuel seepage around the sending unit area.
The gasket that came with the fuel pump seems kind of thin to provide a good seal here.
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Been reading about the various ways a fuel level sending unit can fail; think I have a first!
Purchased a new sending unit on eBay for less than $25; dealer wanted over $70!
Dropped the tank, pulled out the pump, and took a close look at the unit; at first, I thought I had play in the bushing as others have found.
However, looking closer, turns out one of the two springed 'tangs' that ride up and down on the potentiometer had broken off, and was not making contact with the board! No amount of fuel additive would have fixed this!
1 hour job to complete the job, and everything works as it should! Terrible pic, but the tangs are inside the black square, and the one farthest from the pivot point is broke....
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I just changed out the fuel sending unit in my 08 Accent and now the gauge doesn't work. Everything appears to be plugged in.
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My 95 chevy 1500 pickup is having fuel pump issues. Somewhere between the relay and the sending unit. Pulled the tank, and put power directly to both the pump and the sending unit. They both run. Put in new relay, still not turning on the pump. Do not know if this is related, but the switch to turn on the interior light when you open the door does not work on the drivers side door. If I pull on the switch the light will come on.
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The oil pressure gauge is dancing on my 4.2L '99 Ford E-150 (V-6) and at times the oil light comes on but there's no rattling or other signs of oil deficiency in the engine. I'm pretty sure it's a problem with the sending unit and did an oil change today but for the life of me couldn't find where it's located. I looked all around the filter when I replaced it but to no avail. The Haynes manual and internet pics I find are not recognizable parts in them to reference. I can't tell if they're looking under the car, on top, driver's side etc.
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I have an early 03 F250 6.0 that won't start after I replaced all 3 FICM connectors, also # 8 injector pin and connector. It has been almost impossible to start before the repair.
I checked the grounds on
Pins #1 2 3 22 they were all .5 ohms
Pin #32 was 1.0 ohms.
Pins #7 27 were 12.7v ( battery voltage)
I have double checked all pin connections and wire colors, they are in the right holes, I haven't done any cranking voltage tests, as I am alone. The FICM has 48.2 v.
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I have a 99 SD 7.3 with 210K miles. It has the OE water pump, clutch and fan. I am replacing every thing from pump to fan including pulley, thermostat and sensor. The question is can every thing be removed as a unit? I don't see why not but never did one that way.
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The trans temp guage on my '08 F-350. V-10 started acting erratically, and the wrench icon popped up on the display. i crawled under the truck to look for the sending unit and it's lead. i assume that i found the lead. it is encased in a corrugated sleeve, and appears to be a vaccuum type tube and boot connector? the boot still had a small round gray cap plugged into it. it appears that the cap was never glued (go figure) upon assembly. i have tried to reach up on top of the trans to find the sending unit to figure out the best angle of attack. i can barely touch it with the tip of my finger. going with mechanical guages is out of the question at the moment, so i'm wondering can it be driven any distance this way, AND any schmooze tricks developed to get at the sucker without dropping the cross member or exhaust????
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I picked up a 1999 F-250 Super Duty with the extended cab (not the full crew cab), and have been working on restoring, upgrading, and improving it. It is in great mechanical shape, but needed cosmetic work, replacement of the mirrors and some lenses, and updating to modern tech. I've got all the key wiring in place to install a new in-dash PC head unit with backup camera and a new sub and amp to improve the audio. The problem I'm working on right now is that the head unit is a bit too deep for the double-din slot in the dash.
I could let it stick out 1.5-2" or so and trim it out, but to be honest, I'm not keen on that at all. I think it looks terrible, and I've gone to a ton of trouble already for a nice clean, sleek install and would like to keep it that way.
I've also looked and whether the screen might be divorced from the main body, or the chassis shortened, but neither of those is going to work.
I've considered that there may be someone who makes custom dashes that stick out further for situations like this, effectively deepening the stereo pocket by adding space at the front. If there is though, I can't find them.
Finally, and what seems the most likely, is that I would need to modify/reroute the air duct, and notch out the steel tube at the back of the cavity, to gain an extra 2-3" of depth.
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2002 F250 diesel ... I found these two plastic pieces yesterday on the floor near the 4X4 shifter. I noticed the other day when i step on the brake the rear view camera in the head unit comes on, so i am thinking they are either a part of the brake switch on the pedal assembly, or something to do with the shift tube.
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So my 7.3 started sputtering and lost power, died on the side of the road. I wasn't far from home put about 8 gallon of diesel in the tank with a couple of fuel jugs and it fired right up.
Gauge was reading 1/8 of a tank and low fuel light did not come on. (low fuel light comes on when you start) Gauge came up to about 1/2 after putting fuel in.
What happened? Gauge was always reliable and low fuel light always did work. Only work done to fuel system was had new tank straps put on a couple of months ago.
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01 7.3. Cranks, won't start. Tank was at 1/4 but is full now. The lift pump runs, I can feel and hear that the motor is spinning when I cycle the key. I removed the fuel filter and cycled the key and get no fuel into the bowl. It looks like the lines are stainless from the pump to the tank so I doubt it is sucking air. I pressurized the tank with a shop vac and I get fuel coming into the filter housing. Am I missing something obvious? I have never seen an electric pump that would run and not pump fuel. I removed the suction line at the pump and don't feel any suction there.
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My question is about a 2000 ford windstar with 3.8 engine. Does this vehicle have a coolant temp sensor and sending unit or just a sensor?
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I had to replace the temp gauge in my 1996 Explorer. I also replaced the sending unit. Now, it is overheating, badly. I replaced the thermostat, twice. Filled the coolant and removed the air in the system. It seems to get good water flow, and there are no coolant leaks. The radiator looks clean, and the cap looks ok. But, as soon as the engine warms up, it goes right past the midline on the gauge all the way to hot - at idle. It gets worse if I drive it. I have grounded the gauge and it seems to be working fine. What could the problem be?
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