Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Fuel Pump Runs For 20 Seconds At Key On / Long Start Takes About 6 Seconds
Sep 10, 2017
This applies to a 2001 F-350 with 73,000 miles on the engine. Engine oil level is good, batteries charged, HPOP reservoir is full and passes Cody test with flying colors. Fuel pump runs for 20 seconds at key on. Start takes about 6 seconds. If I shut the key off and restart immediately it starts in under 2 seconds but if I wait about 30 seconds it's a 6 second start. Here is an AE that I ran on it, it has me stumped. FWIW it seems to start quicker when AE is hooked up. ?? An odd whir type of noise comes out from somewhere under the hood when I first turn the key on and when I clear the codes with AE.
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When I start my truck it takes 30 seconds or so for the truck to start moving... especially when in reverse. If I give it some gas it doesn't take quite as long. I am not a transmission guy. I assume it has something to do with building pressure but I don't know what would be the cause. The fluid is full and looks good.
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I recently did the following work:
New Injectors
New T500 Hpop
New IPR
New ICP Sensor
New UVCH/Glowplugs
New starter
Been cranking about 15-30 seconds each time about a dozen times now. I've pulled the icp and the hp crossover and have oil flowing at each.
ICP builds to about 240 psi and at a 98% duty cycle....so I assume there's still some air in the system. I"m not getting any sense that the engine is trying to hit. Do i just keep cranking?
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Trucks been running perfect for 11,000 miles atleast. its last issue was a bad turbo but that was my fault. No issues whatsoever since. 10 miles down the road from work last night truck had a slight miss in between 55-60 for four or five seconds, I put the pedal down and brought it up to 75 or so just to see if it was my imagination and it felt fine so i wrote it off. It ran fine to the house we're working on i wanted to check on before I got home.
Parked it, it idled down to 650 before it came back up to 750 and it never does that and sounded different then it usually does. so i felt something was definitely up. i shut it off, was at the house about a half hour before i decided to head home, started and ran fine, three miles down the road the slight miss came back, it seemed to go away if i got on it pretty good and when i let off but just cruising with slight throttle it had the slight miss.
Got to my road where i had to slow down and turn and it idled down and died. I coasted over, unplugged the icp sensor and it cranked for 10 seconds or so and lazily came back to life. I got it home running decent and parked it. Scanned it with my old super chips tuner and it came up with a p0340 camshaft position code.
Matched my symptoms i felt so this morning i decided id go back to work and grab my spare out of my wrecked truck. truck started and idled perfect. made it to the end of my driveway before the miss came back and then it just died. took the car to work, grabbed my spare camshaft sensor and my maximus scanner, came home scanned it, no returning p0340 cam code but i swapped the camshaft sensor anyway and watched icp and ipr data, the ipr voltage is where it should be and rises while cranking while cranking.
ICP is climbing to almost 3,200 psi and it will begin to run when it peaks out. she'll fire for 45 seconds after 25 seconds of cranking or so and then it'll just die. if it sits for a few minutes it takes a few seconds of cranking before ICP will come off of 0. I've come to the conclusion that it is making high pressure oil it is just dumping it as fast as it can make it. I changed the ipr out because that can do it, it didn't change anything so I'm on to believing an injector is dumping it as fast as possible.
Is it possible for something to come undone inside the injector to make it dump high pressure oil or will a bad o ring cause this? i'm leaning towards a failing injector as when it does fire and run its definitely misfiring and i just put new o rings on them when i swapped them over from my wrecked truck but that was like 45,000 miles ago as well..
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So I had a reman 7.3 and 4r100 dropped in my 03 excursion.. since then the engine fires up every single time.. ONLY when the truck sits for 2 days i have this issue where the truck fires right up, runs for 4 or 5 seconds then stalls out.. It starts back up on first try and idles rough 10 seconds then it runs great.. If it only sits 1 day i dont have the issue if it sits 1.5 days it will try to stall out and catches itself from stall out and doesn't stall about 3/4 of the time. The mechanic who is a reputable diesel mechanic cant figure it out.. they called swamps and they also were unsure.
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I have Warn hubs that I have to lock in. All works good. A/C goes to defrost at first when cranking but then runs fine after a couple seconds. So, I was thinking that maybe my pump is running all the time. Who knows. I'm sure all my vacuum lines are dry rotted. What exactly is the need for it exactly and what's the best way to cap? Hoping to do it at the unit itself if possible.
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I have an issue with my 7.3.... the truck will not start if it sits overnight without being plugged in, even in 65 degree weather. It starts and runs with a rough idle for about 10 seconds after its been plugged in for an hour, after the rough idle is gone it runs great .. it will Stat back up as long as the truck is warm (70+).... I've replaced the batteries, glow plugs, starter (it was going bad) and fuel filter. .. also replaced the gpr today. ....
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Every time I hit a hill, loaded or empty, or get on the truck on level ground after about 15 seconds it acts like it's running out of fuel. The pump starts getting noisy like it has air in it, but it'll straighten out eventually. If you don't let off the fuel it'll eventually stall out. No check engine light, no codes. Truck has a ts chip but it does it on all settings. New fuel filter, changed oil with hot shots secret, new air filter, hutch mod done. I'm at a loss for what to do. Good fuel pressure also.
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I just finished installing a new set of injectors, standpipes and the blue spring kit on our 2005 Excursion 6.0. The truck idles and runs much better but now it takes almost two seconds of cranking to start the engine. Cold and hot are the same and the length of time between shut down and start doesn't seem to matter either.
What to check? I am planning to check the ICP tonight when I get home. Could I have air trapped some where in the system? This is my first powerstroke so I don't know if this is a possibility.
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Went to start my truck (2003, 7.3 F250) one evening and I found the headlights on. No keys in the ignition and the truck hadn't been driven for 2 days. There was a strong smell of plastic and or electrical components burning in the cab. The truck started without a problem. I shut it off and the lights remained on. Cycling the MFS and light switch would not turn the lights off. I had to disconnect the batteries and leave it till time allowed for trouble shooting.
I've had it in my shop for three months now and this is what I've found so far.
-Source of the burn smell is coming from the fuse panel. More specific it's coming from a bulkhead that plugs into the panel. One pin connected to a White wire with 2 purple traces. I've traced this wire to one of 2 small relay packs in the engine compartment next to the driver side fender. I've replaced the relay this white/purple wire connects to as a precaution. This did not remedy my trouble.
-The local ford dealer told me this relay was for the A/C clutch. I located a 10amp fuse in position 10 and removed it. The headlights finally turned off.
-I started the truck and the A/C compressor clutch still engaged and ran. Smoke began to pour from the fuse panel once again. I killed the truck and head lights remained off. All done with the fuse in position 10 removed.
Here's where it gets weird!
-With the key/engine off and I turn the headlight switch on and MFS to low beam the fuel pump is running. Change the MFS to high beams and the fuel pump turns off.
I've looked over the wiring harness and there are no noticeable problems indicating multiple wires being shorted. How are all these issues related?
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I've noticed it takes my truck much longer to start recently. I have 2 brand new interstate batteries, just changed both fuel filters and my truck still takes a good 10 seconds or more of spinning over to fire. Is this normal? I don't remember my truck doing this before, it usually fired right up even in winter. Could this be an injector or glow plug issue?
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Alright, my 1999 7.3 keeps dying on me in the morning. About two weeks ago I noticed it started to have a weaker start up, even though it has two brand new batteries. Once it starts up, I get around the block and it dies there every time. Then I have to crank it for about 15 seconds for it to start again.
The crank gets faster and faster until it finally start, and the engine is very choppy, like its starving for fuel. After about ten seconds of that it return back to a smooth idle. I then take off, and about 50 yards later it does the same thing. After it does it the second time, the truck runs just fine for the rest of the day with no problems.
I have noticed that when if I turn the truck on and let it idle for 10 minutes first in the morning, it won't die on me. I replaced the camshaft position sensor thinking it was that, but it wasn't.
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A lady friend of mine got a '99 7.3 CCLB auto dually in a divorce. She doesn't drive it but starts it once a week and yesterday it wouldn't start. It cranked about 10/15sec (after waiting for WTS light to go out) before it sputtered and tried to start but it quit. Then it cranked another 10sec or so and the batteries died. It was about 85deg so it should have started w/o GPs.
Watching the voltmeter, GPs seemed to draw current. There's a lot of corrosion on both batteries so I know that needs to be cleaned up. Assuming the batteries aren't shot, after cleaning the corrosion, is it safe to hook jumper cables to a car to charge the batteries, but disconnect the jumper cables before starting the truck? Or should I use a plug in AC charger? I've never jumped a dual battery vehicle - not even my own 7.3.
She wants to sell it but it's in pretty rough condition - possibly normal for that age with 160K on a work truck. It was used in a business she had with her ex. The valley of death has some wet fuel in it and there is a film of diesel on the fuel bowl, fuel lines and wiring in the vicinity. I could smell the fuel before I opened the hood or tried to start it and it hadn't been run in a week. She says it runs fine and uses no oil but is always rough to start. It rolls rather than barks to life. It's bone stock with flat factory downpipe and airbox.
The engine cover is missing. Connectors and wiring on top of the valve covers appear new. She looked up the value and says it books for $7200 on KBB in its current condition. It was always parked in the sun here in Albuquerque and it shows. Body looks good as far as no rust or dents, but the white paint is faded (flat looking) and the blue interior is also pretty rough with 40/20/40 front seat and cracked dash. If I get it running I'll post it in the for sale section if she doesn't find a local buyer by then.
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I've developed a problem, usually when starting, that the truck will crank over, start and idle for a few seconds and then shut off. The few seconds it idles it doesn't get any throttle input. I'll crank it back over taking a little more than usual to get it started. When it does start it seems slightly sluggish but that quickly, like almost immediately goes away and the throttle is working again.
Oh, 2001, 7.3 stock w/200k
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It driving me crazy. Every 10th start of engine it cranks over and over before it fires up, no codes, changed plugs, wires, crank trigger, fuel filter, upper and lower intake gaskets, injectors, iacv. I have no clue. Runs great all time just starting issue every 10th or so start takes 10- 15 seconds to start
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01 7.3. Cranks, won't start. Tank was at 1/4 but is full now. The lift pump runs, I can feel and hear that the motor is spinning when I cycle the key. I removed the fuel filter and cycled the key and get no fuel into the bowl. It looks like the lines are stainless from the pump to the tank so I doubt it is sucking air. I pressurized the tank with a shop vac and I get fuel coming into the filter housing. Am I missing something obvious? I have never seen an electric pump that would run and not pump fuel. I removed the suction line at the pump and don't feel any suction there.
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I have now replaced hpop, injectors, cups, gpr, batteries, uvch on both sides, icp and ipr on my 2002 F550 and it still has a long crank to start.
It has been driven about 1,000 miles since then and no change. I have no codes except buzz test produced a high to low 1272 1274 1276 1278 one time. Cannot get that to happen again.
It is taking 4 seconds of cranking to start consistently hot or cold. It always starts but cranks for what seems like too long compared to my other 7.3s. I have included a screenshot of the data and am curious on what everyone's thoughts are as I am out of things to look at!
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My truck started fine my truck was running good. One morning while working from a hotel I went to start it in the morning and it started and stalled more than a few times but eventually ran fine later it did the same thing. The next morning it would not crank at all. I deduced it was the ficm and ordered a replacement the dash was acting funny and tach dropped before it died. I ran the. Test on the dash it swooped the gauges acted fine. I checked and wiggled sensors wires. I also checked were a splice at the crank sensor was it looked good then I bought a meter and the ficm seemed to have the correct volts it was a upgrade. Had 57volts at 1 screw koeo and while cranking.
PCM and replacing the crank and cam sensors. I don't really think it is the harness it will now crank and shut off crank and shut off like it did at first. He said it's stalling because it looses ficm sink. I haven't put new ficm on it ...the harness was allot better than the first. Could the crank sensor splice be wrong it is done its soldered together and heat shrink ... is it the ficm or the dash. I'm out of my comfort level I was also reading it only needs ficm sink to start. Not run. In addition #2 injector is throwing a code. I asked him if he thought the fuel was getting pressurized and his reply was the fuel has nothing to do with ficm sink. Also, I swapped relay out with my other 6.0. And its running fine This is everything I got ....
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So it often just cranks for 15 seconds before it fires. I put the fuel pressure guage on it and you turn the key on but don't engage the starter it goes to 30 psi then back to 0 in a 2 second time frame. It then stays at zero. when you engage the starter pressure slowly goes up and it starts running while running its a consistent 60 psi.
I presume its the fuel regulator but why does it not go up to 60 psi and why does it just stop with the KOEO? Is it reasonable to just replace the regulator? or should I be replacing the fuel pump to at the same time? I will be doing this from under the truck since there is a lot of hard mounted equipment in the bed.
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I just got delivered a 7.3L from down south. Batteries were dead so replaced both. Fuel was a couple notches above red line (much closer to red line than 1/4 tank) so I added about 7-8 gallons.
It will crank forever and ever...Won't start.
With starter fluid it starts but not strong enough to pump the pedal and rev it up to keep it idling.
I know s-fluid is bad but if I continuously spray with key turned forward it will run but as soon as I let go of key it shuts off.
20 degree weather and it was delivered to a parking lot so I cannot plug it in.
Was told to check filter cap, turn key, and see if it fills bowl with fuel....if not then it is fuel pump. Someone else mentioned that it could be bad crank position sensor? Does this sound like fuel pump?
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I have a 2002 F250 7.3 with 130,000 miles. The truck was bought new by my father and is completely stock and never run hard. I was driving on the interstate at 70 mph and the cel came on for 30 seconds and went off. Not long after it went off the truck shut off and has not started back. That was around 12-20-16. I have put a new cps, icp, and ipr on it with no luck. All ford parts. I drained the fuel water separator to check the fuel pump and it filled back up. The truck is turning over good but has no white smoke witch leads me to think maybe the IDM. I'm a novice to all of this and until this happened new nothing about any of these parts but I'm learning. I do have the torque app if I should check some things.
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