Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Fuel Filter O-Ring Blowing Out
Aug 7, 2011
My fuel filter lid o-ring keeps blowing out upon hot start, this has happened 4 times now once last week, I replaced filter and all was ok until Thursday it happens again I change the filter allis fine! Now today!!!!! TWICE I have to install new filters because the o-rings are blowing outside the bowl lid! I'm using the same BALDWIN PF7698 filters I've used for years, my reg. Is set at 75psi and holds steady! No spikes but I haven't been able to watch it when the o-ring blows out! Injectors and o-rings are new (<1000miles) no problems during operation at all!
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Having trouble getting large plastic nut to start threading on top of the fuel tank sending unit, after doing in tank mods.
It just doesnt seem to want to start threading on properly. Its always cocked when it grabs, and after a while opposite side pops up and it falls off. Not sure how to get it back on there
Dealer has new ring for 18 bucks, maybe mine is warped or dried up since 2000?
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I'm checking my fuel filter regular (draining, examining.....basically OCD **** stuff) and I'm spilling diesel around the bowl. I've learned to put a rag around it now, but what's best way of cleaning diesel around that area? I'm tired of my wife complaining about smell. Simple green, purple power, etc???? Also, tell me what to watch out for.
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just bought this truck and it has a brittle cap and i cant get the cap to turn, its been on there awhile . 99 f250, anyway might have to destroy this cap to be able to remove it. Doing this without damaging the filter housing?
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Shut my truck off for about 15 minutes and wouldn't start back up. Installed new fuel filter. And gonna try changing cps. Torque says Rpm 180
Ipw. Bouncing between 600 - 3000 Hpop. 250 while cranking Voltage 10.9 while cranking. Ipr starts about 15% and slowly climbs to about 88%
Fuel pressure about 65%
Tried unplugging cps. Gonna check oil now though I check it every time I fill up and it never uses any.
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I am attempting to change my fuel filter - have a new Napa unit complete with new lid.
I can not get the old one off (this alone tells me it's been on there too long). The hex is 26mm and all I have is a 26mm box end. It just rounds the corners of the plastic hex off.
As the new filter has a new lid, I am using a steel chisel and hammer (in a CCW direction) at several places on the top flange. I have also smacked the top flange liberally to get it to let go of whatever is holding it.
I'm about to get out my map torch out and warm up the plastic but would rather not produce a flame on something with fuel directly behind it.
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I have a 2001 f250 7.3l 4x4 and the fuel filter housing is leaking real bad from either the back or under it. I need to get info on parts that i would need as well.
[URL]....
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I'm in the process of replacing my HPOP lines and fittings and after I got everything removed and started cleaning the threads before re-assembly I noticed this green wire (located above the fuel filter assembly) that apparently I pulled out of its socket.
What is it for? Can I just push it back in its sleeve right below the red wire??
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I am a mechanic and tow operator running a late 99 f350 7.3 6 speed cab and chassis wrecker. This truck has had a hard life and has been neglected for quite some time, and now has become my baby/headache. Truck starts great, idles nice, and will run great for about 5 minutes until it starts billowing white smoke that smells like fuel and loses all power. If you continue to drive it it will die. Sounds like it's dropping cylinders and will barely idle. If you stop for 5 minutes or so and let it idle it will smooth back out and will run great again for another minute or two, then right back to stumbling.
Using torque app, hpop pressure looks good when it's running well. Peaks at 3k, IPR maintaining 30-40% max. As soon as it stumbles you can see the hpop drop to 5-600 and the IPR will climb to 65%. Let it idea bit and they go back to normal, and stay good until it stumbles again.
Ive changed the fuel pump, ICP,rebuilt FPR, change fuel filter, pulled and cleaned the fuel tank (metal tank, no delamination, looks perfect inside). Pickup screen looked good. Cleaned the IPR, cleaned the hpop reservoir, there was no screen inside. Checked voltage at fuel pump, 11.78 across the pump with it running. Pulled valve covers, no noticeable leaks around injectors. Injectors have less than 5k miles. Remans with 100% larger tips.
To me it seems like the lpop is not keeping up with the hpop under load, starving it until you idle and let it catch up. Could it still be bad injector orings? Bad lpop? Something I'm not thinking of?
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I just changed the drain valve on the fuel filter bowl. All went well and no more leak, but now I am getting an "emission system" warning light.
After I replaced the valve, I filled the fuel bowl with diesel fuel. Was there any other priming that needed to be done (if any)? What the emission system warning light may mean?
2002 F250 7.3L 4x4.
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I'm sure there is something on this somewhere but can't seem to find. Getting ready to change injector o rings and see where people say to drive it 200 miles to get it running right again. Well, I am in the process of a conversion and have no tags or insurance on the truck. Trying to fix issues before I spend that money on it because don't know how much I am going to have to put in it to fix the issue's.
Is there a way to bleed out the air so I don't have to drive it 200 miles? Also, how long will it smoke after the injector change to see if it is actually fixed? I know I should probably see a big difference is ICP,IPR and such. Already know it has leaks in the turbo up pipes which will have to be dealt with too.
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I have a 1999 7.3 psd F-450. It's rigged out for welding with a Lincoln SA-200 engine driven welder. My overall weight is approx. 11,500 lbs. and I rarely tow with it. It has a 4 speed automatic and 4.89 ratio gears in it now. I bought it with 245/70/19.5 tires. Stock size is 225/70/19.5. I am going broke trying to keep the fuel light from staying on all the time, and I am considering changing the gear ratio. My questions are; Is this a wise investment, as far as cost vs. gain? I also need to know if it may create a higher risk of other mechanical failures? I need to research what other ring and pinion ratios can be used in the ford 10.5 12 bolt rear axle. Money is hard to come by these days, and even harder to keep. I cannot afford a costly mistake if the funds can be more effective elsewhere.
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Changed fuel filters today. Now my water in fuel light is coming on. But the truck is not running any different no sputtering or anything. ????? Could this be human error
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How can I tell if my truck has a cabin filter and where would it be located? I looked through the OM but it was little to no luck....
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I have a very slow fuel drip off the housing for the fuel filter on the engine. Can't see where it's coming from. It started sometime after I changed the filter a couple of months ago.
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Dumb question but how do I remove the air filter intake from the turbo Its a little oily there from a fuel or oil leak but I dont see a clamp holding it on the turbo?
Also what is the e clip? Is it the little thing holding the wastegate rod on the exhaust turbine? Can I just pull the rod up off the clip?
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my first diesel, and second 2002 f250. I picked up my 7.3 4x4 automatic CCSB last week. 202k on the odometer. I need to change the air filter but idk what to use. I don't think it's stock. The side of the air box says aFe. What the part number for the filter is? I don't see one on the filter anywhere.
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2000 F350 with 340000 on it, have had it for the last 140000. It's an old service truck from south west gas with one owner in between them and me and he put about 5000 on it. I have the big cylinder open air filter, billet compressor wheel, 4" exhaust all the way and an Edge tuner. Don't have any codes I can pull with the tuner. Have been good to me so fare only need regular maintenance, but always had smoke out oil filler with a little pulse.
2500 ago I changed oil and add 1/4 of Lucas oil. 3 days ago when I started in the morning it smoked white smoke out the exhaust as a steam train and idle rough, but cleared up as I went down the street and will do so every time I start cold or warm. Ok, might need new GP, did that yesterday yet the same. Now I start checking stuff and have smoke out the oil filler as a steam train so the cap won't stay.
I know it sound like alot of problems, just try to verify some of them. The smoke out oil filler is blow by? The smoke on start up is that related to bad injectors? Can a bad injector dumping fuel create the blow by? Coolant level ok Transmission fluid level ok Engine oil Rotella T6 added 3 quarter in 2500 miles. I do not have a scanner or any other advance test tools.
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I own a 2003 E450 (transit bus conversion) with a 7.3L w/ California emissions. I recently noticed I have a considerable amount of oil in my air intake going back all the way to my turbo starting where the crankcase breather tube attached to the air tube. The breather seems to have some sort of filter housing that is attached to the top of the valve cover. I removed it and it appears to be fairly heavy as in if it's a filter, perhaps it's full. If I'm getting oil into my air intake from where the breather tube comes off that housing and joins in my air tube back to the turbo, could that filter or housing have gone bad? It appears to be a dealer stock item only for 225. I've saw on the web people posting "reroute kits" for the 6.0L but nothing for the 7.3. Does this part simply need replaced or could I be facing a separate issue as to why I'm getting oil in my air tube?
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IPR CF2 Byasss High Flow Coolant Filter Ford 6.0
Made for the 6.0, the biggest problem on the 7.3 might be finding real estate for the filter assembly.
One review refers to using it on a 7.3.
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I just replaced my factory oil cooler again, and my bypass oil filter came loose spraying 8 quarts of oil all over under the hood.
This is the second time it has done this. Both times my wife was driving so i don't know how it was running prior to this.
Now i think my oil cooler seal to the block is blown again! Just like the last time my bypass oil filter came loose.
Could this be a symptom of another problem?
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