Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Fuel Rail And High Pressure Oil Cross Over
Nov 14, 2016
Next mods are for the fuel rail cross over and the high pressure oil cross over. I see the unused ports will come in handy.
Fuel delivery? any specialty mods to run the fuel lines? I see it's a #4 ORB fitting. Anyone ever use a "T" or a splitter off the fuel bowl to have a quad line set up?
Saw the FRx from RiffRaff .... not sure how it eliminates air from the system 7.3L Diesel Fuel Rail Crossover? (FRx) 99-03 Powerstroke
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I've found everything there is to know about disconnecting the high pressure oil STC line from the oil rail on the early 6.0's, but I can't find anything about reconnecting them. Do you simply press it back on? Should there be an audible "click"?
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I was watching a tv show a while back, I cant find the episode but I think it was performance tv, and they had a 6.0 L expert on there and he was saying they see a lot of high pressure oil rail end caps come loose and or pop out. He was saying that they tap/thread the end of the oil rail and put a threaded in cap? Does it make any sense, can it be done, is it worth doing?
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What is the part number for the high pressure oil rail check valves for a 2003 6.0L? I'm referring to the ones that screw into the oil rail. I would like to avoid the local dealer if possible.
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Is this job worth doing as a preventative maintenance item? I replaced the rear fuel rail plug (aka banjo bolt) o-rings because they were very easy to get to with the up-pipes out. But the cylinder head plug in the rear is pretty high up and even with the up-pipes out, there isn't enough room to get a breaker in there that's long enough and has enough movement to loosen it. The front would be easier to get to, but both accessory brackets need to come off to get to them on both sides.
As far as I know, none of them leak but they're all 17 years old... BTW in case you haven't been following, I'm doing up-pipes, injectors, turbo, rebuilt HPOP & fuel bowl, boots & clamps, etc. so I'm trying to knock out any PM items while I have it apart.
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I had just replaced my the fuel pressure regulator in the fuel bowl because it appeared to be leaking from where the FPR is, now with the new FPR , it is no longer leaking from there but now leaking (fast steady leak while running) from the fuel rail outlet fitting... How do you replace these, why all of the sudden it started leaking there ???
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So I've gotten this error code a few times now but never a CEL nor does the car drive any diff.
1 Fault Found:
000136 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure: Too High
P0088 - 000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
[Code] ....
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My high pressure power steering hose just blew at the "B" nut at the pump. Meaning, the fitting is still in the pump but the line is out. Do I need to replace the whole line or is there a retainer I can swap out?
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I just replaced my 3rd HP power steering line last night( 3rd in 300K, always blows the same point....fitting comes apart where it attaches to the pump.
I'll start, mine have gone about 100K plus or minus 10K, almost thinking about making it a 100K maintenance item.
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What are the most favorable low-side/high-side pressure readings for the AC when fully charged?
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Low power on my 2003 7.3 F350. The truck runs fine but I can tell it is low on power (seat of the pants). I figured it to be fuel related so changed fuel filter and oil with no change. When that didn't work I installed a fuel guage and this what I found. Key on no start fuel pressure 45 psi. Start truck the pressure will get up to 61psi. Under a load it will drop down to the low 30s. I have dropped the tank mixing chamber screens clean and so was the tank. Changed fuel pump and now under a load it drops to the high 30s. Does this sound like the fuel pressure regulator is leaking by and causing low pressure under a load? Truck is stock besides superchips 1705 programer.
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I noticed this evening that my low pressure oil pressure was much higher than normal. I have a LPOP gauge that typically reads 12 psi or so at idle This evening I was seeing 75psi with a warm engine. Every little acceleration pegged the gauge over 100psi.
The factory non-functioning gauge says that everything is normal.
I am about due for an oil change. I was thinking that I would change the oil and filter as soon as possible and temporarily plumb in my mechanical gauge to see if the high pressure reading is real or not. I replaced the stock LPOP about 3 years ago with a melling and everything has been golden up until now.
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I just replaced my injector cups a month or so ago and also injectors with some lower mile injectors. but now 3 weeks later still not getting any pressure at icp. I have dead headed pump got 3k plus but when i block off ether head i get no pressure. i have pulled injectors and checked for orings and they are fine...
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'99 7.3, 258k miles, looses oil fast, oil found in coolant (though not a lot) and the fuel bowl is full of oil.
I re-ringed the oil cooler. Most of the coolant and oil is drained. The HPOP holds its oil level and does not leak down.
Someone shared the below test. Though it says #4 ORB, the actual thread on my IPR is #8. I removed the IPR and threaded in the #8ORB to air hose adapter. I regulated the pressure to 20 psi. The air is rushing out of the CCV.
I suspect I am missing something in the below test and that I'm pushing air back through the low pressure oil pump and into the crank case.
The test shared with me elsewhere:
Apparently someone named "Cody" on the forum did a test and it was labeled that way.
AIR TESTING THE HPO SYSTEM:
7.3L Powerstroke engines may experience hard start and or no start issues. In some cases the no-start issue may occur only with the engine hot. If the observed ICP pressure during cranking is less than the required 500 PSI, then the problem is in the high pressure oil system.
One of the first checks that should be made is to remove the plug from the top of the high pressure oil reservoir (in front of the fuel filter) to observe if the reservoir is full. If the oil is standing within an inch of the top of the reservoir, then the problem is in the high pressure oil system and could be caused by one of three things:
- The high pressure oil pump itself
- The IPR Valve
- A high pressure oil leak
Tools: Adaptor ORB #4, Air Compressor capable of maintaining 90-100 psig, Air Line Adaptors which will allow connection to the #4 OBR , IPR Test Harness, Grease Gun Whip or any whip with a .0625" NPT.
Remove the IPR valve and insert the ORB #4 Adaptor. Attach Shop Air and pressurize the system. Wait for approximately 30 - 60 Seconds while the air travels throughout the HPO System. Listen for air escaping through the Oil Fill Tube (cap removed).
External high pressure oil leaks would have, of course, been obvious. The primary concern is internal leaks under the valve cover(s). These could include leaking injector O-rings, or leaking injectors. Listen for any air escaping under the valve covers and correct if present.
If the center injector O-ring has failed, high pressure oil may be forced into the fuel system. Remove the fuel filter cap and observe for air bubbles in the fuel. If necessary, individual fuel lines running from the fuel filter assembly to the cylinder heads can be disconnected in order to isolate the problem to which side it is occurring.
2. 7.3L: If no air leaks are observed, the next step is to isolate whether the problem is with the IPR or the high pressure oil pump. Remove the IDM fuse or unplug the IDM or injector connectors at the valve covers to prevent starting.
3. If this test does not assist in diagnosing the issue, remove both valve covers and witness oil from the deflectors as being uniform, look closely at the injector base for any sign of air or oil escaping during test. This is an indication of a loose injector or O-Ring failure.
The same can be done at the ICP Ports (Oil Rail) on either side to determine leaking O-Rings in that Bank.
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I bought an Autometer 4763 gauge that didn't come with the correct fittings to plumb the sender into one of the extra ports on the back of the bowl. I went to the Ace hardware store right across the street and they didn't have anything (not surprised) and then Napa. They couldn't find a fitting to match either. He found that the plug threads are 7/16 20 tpi and the sender is 1/8" NPT. He suggested getting a 7/16 20tpi bolt, drilling it rifle-style, and then tapping it for a 1/8" NPT. The alternative, and what I ended up doing, was to use brass fittings to tee it off one of the supply lines to the heads. I ended up going that route but wanted to know if I should have looked harder for the right fitting.
Here's a pic of what I have now. I've test fit it, and it seems to work although I will need to insulate the hard lines because they rub due to the offset.
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Looking for pics of where/how they mounted their fuel pressure gauge? I'm getting ready to install one.
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A friend has a 1999 Caravan with the 3.0L engine. He couldn't get it to start and to make a long story short, I checked the fuel pump relay and fuse and they were good but there was no pressure on the fuel rail. Turning the key I couldn't here the fuel pump come on and determined the fuel pump was bad.
I changed the fuel pump and fuel filter put in 1/4 tank of gas and turned the key, and it turned over but wouldn't start. I can audibly hear the fuel pump come on for a second or so, and feel the vibration when I put my hand on it, but there is still no pressure at the fuel rail.
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Last night when i left work I noticed my fuel pressure was running about 77 psi, it normally runs about 68psi. today I took my daughter to practice and it was around 83psi, on the way home it was up to 95psi, so I parked it and took another truck to work.
About a week and a half ago I lost fuel pressure going down the highway and the truck died, finally decided my pick-up foot must have come off and had my sister in law bring me some diesel and it has drove fine ever since. (it was right at a quarter tank).
I have the FRX from riffraff and am thinking some pieces of that foot have got into the fuel bowl and plugging up the return. Things to check? Could it be a problem with the fuel gauge or wiring, and how to test them. It is an autometer gauge from riffraff.
It will probably be a few weeks before I can do much more than clean out the fuel bowl. I don't have anywhere inside to work on it and it's been rain/sleet/freezing rain/snow for the last 10 days. I have most of the stuff to do the hutch mod and its next on the list but was hoping to put it off till spring.
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Just joined today, I have a 2003 550 7.3. New HPOP, 3 new injectors, new seals on others, new fuel pressure regulator, new fuel pump, sending unit mod to eliminate filters. 733 HPOP pressure, 65 fuel pressure at idle. Truck runs out of fuel pressure after its warmed up and driven about 20 miles. Haven't checked voltage at pump while driving. I had taken it to a seasoned tech of 20 years and he had replaced HPOP and 2 injectors and it does start better but problem is still there.
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I am installing a fuel pressure gauge into my 02 7.3 I went to the thread the sensor into the plug hole on the fuel filter housing and it wasn't threaded, turns out the sensor thread is slightly smaller and a different thread ... The directions say to install it into the filter housing or the lift pump ... So I'm assuming I have to go the lift pump direction of installing it but where the lift pump is or how to install the sensor into it while not throwing a code or causin problems ... A step by step and even pictures.
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Recently my 2011 F-250 Diesel with 21,000 miles seemed to start hard one morning. After starting the truck it ran well that day and started fine. The next morning it would not start. Had it taken to the dealer and they went to work. Started at the fuel filters and replaced low pressure fuel pump. Thought a piece of the defective pump had moved up fuel line. Removed high pressure pump and found signs of rust. All regular service intervals have been met. Didn't see this coming. No water in fuel light or other warning.
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