I have this strange noise coming from the front end. It happens at the most random times. It is at the end of the video. It's kinda hard to hear over the engine noise.
[URL]
I have an 02 crew cab SB 7.3L. The best way to I know to describe it is a sorta like a metal ringing noise. It just started this afternoon while pulling a 9k camper. It only does it under load. Boost stays the same and it happens in all ranges from 5psi to 15psi. It is intermittent. It sounds like it it coming from the turbo. I pulled off the boot and could not feel any play on the intake wheel.
After unhooking trailer and taking for a test drive I can not get it to do it again? The turbo was rebuilt about 4 years ago with a wicked wheel but has only seen about 18k miles since the rebuild. A quick look at the boots appear good but didn't get to take them off before going to work. I will try to post video.
Been trying to track down a noise in the front end. Got a growl and what sounds like a big cat scratching its nails on a metal plate. The metal sound comes and goes, but the growl is always present at one level or another. It sounded like it was coming from the driver's side. I jacked the truck and checked everything on that side and it seemed tight. It was all replaced about two years ago. I then started looking around and found the sway bar links were shot along with the bushings. I then jacked up the passenger's side and checked that.
Should have done this first as it was pulling to the right and not the left. The wheel was hard to rotate and stopped rotating as soon as I stopped forcing it. It was making a growling noise, but not nearly as loud as when the truck was rolling down the road. It also had a bit of play that I tracked down to the hub assembly. The ball joints and u-joints were tight with no play at all. The dust seal that should be on the axle was gone and the hub seal looked beat. Tie rod ends all seemed good. Ordering part now. My question is there anything else I should look at?
With the cold weather lately, I've noticed my truck has developed a new noise from the front axle. It only does it when the truck has sat for a few hours, is completely cold (below 30*), and the hubs are locked. It will only make the noise going forward. I've eliminated brakes and hub assembly as the source since the noise is only made when the hubs are locked, or when the shifter is in 4x4 with the hubs unlocked.
Its a squeak, squeak, squeak noise that seems to be with every revolution of the tire and it goes away after driving 50-100 feet. All the u-joints are tight and I can't make the noise spinning the front driveshaft by hand. The brakes have 9000 miles on them with hawk pads and powerstop cryo rotors. Neither hub assembly has play and all the ball joints are tight. I do leave the hubs locked almost year round, so there's probably a good 40k on them.
I was thinking of throwing some new u-joints on and seeing what happened, but I'm guessing the whole axle shaft has to get pulled to do the ones at the steering knuckles?
My truck has been doing great over here in Germany, and I want it to stay that way lol. I know the snow is fast approaching here and figured I should test my 4x4(I usually do monthly anyway). After switching to 4-high and making the first turn in the open parking lot, I heard a lot of popping and grinding from the front end. I straightened the wheel and out and the grinding /popping continued.
I stopped, got out of the truck to try and lock the hubs to see if that would fix the issue. turns out the passenger side hub is locked up tight. I couldnt move it by hand and wasnt about to attempt to move it with added leverage.
What this could be? maybe a collapsed vacuum hose? but then I should still be able to manually turn my I hubs I would think.
I have seen a number of post about front end vibs associated with steering and braking. I have had a hard time finding these posts and decide to post my vib/noise accompanied when brake and steering applied.
I too have a vib/noise coming from the front at low speed braking and turning (mostly parking lots and such).
About 5-6 months ago (around 90k miles) I noticed a high squeal at high rpms. I thought it had something to do with the belt so one day while driving up the grapevine pass (I-5), under high rpm, I turned the AC on. The squeal went away, I turn the AC off the squeal came back, I was pretty sure it was the belt and hopefully not the AC compressor.
10k miles later, I finally got to changing the serp belt. After I changed the belt, I immediately heard a rough vibration noise when braking and then when PS is under strain. It seams like it comes and goes when it wanted to, but now its always under the low speed parking lot conditions. Sometimes the vibration can be felt in the floorboards.
I haven't gotten to fix'n it yet lol... as I don't know what the problem is. I'm finding it hard to believe that a serp belt could be the cause of vib/noise when braking/low speed turning. One thing for sure, the vib/noise instantly occurred when I changed the serpentine belt. What might be going on here?
Recently I have a vibration that I can feel slightly through the steering wheel. If I'm driving down the highway doing 70mph + I have a noise coming from the front end. Also while driving let's say 40mph and below and I let off the pedal to slow down I can here a vibration in the front that kind of sounds like a small Jake break. And when going over anything bumpy I hear like a popping metal sound. This popping sound has been going on for a long time and still can't figure it out. I replaced all my shocks thinking my old set was bottoming out. Nope, still have the same problem.
I jacked up the front end yesterday and checked for movement top and bottom and side to side thinking maybe the wheel bearings or ball joints were going. Everything is solid. Spun the wheels and no noise, no grinding, nothing. I can't figure it out. I have not removed the wheels to check and see if a caliper is loose. I will be checking that next. I did notice while looking around that I can push up on my pitman arm on the steering box. It's not a huge amount of movement but I can still move it. I can also see teeth marks between the box and the arm, not sure if that is normal or not. When I do move it up and down it sounds a lot like that metal popping sound I have been hearing. So, I know this is a lot.
Now down to the question in hand. I have a 2001 f350 4x4 with7.3 diesel...I have recently noticed a low grind like noise coming from the right front. I have troubled shot the issue and I am 100% sure it is the wheel hub assembly. Did I mention I am running 37x13.50 tires..and now it is the hubs...and they are the original hubs.. My question is every thing I look for shows ABS is on my truck... I look at the hub and don't see it.. so with the Dana 60 front does it have ABS or not? Also, should I go motorcraft, Timken or moog wheel hubs?
View 7 RepliesI've got a loud, intermittent, swooshing, vibrating noise from the front left wheel area at highway speeds. I put a camera down there and saw that when there was noise, the front driveshaft and front left halfshaft were spinning. When they stopped spinning on their own, the noise stopped. Hubs are Warn Premium (gold) and unlocked. Unit bearing already replaced. What could it be?
View 10 Replieswhen i accelerate or let off the peddle I hear and aloud thug or dull bang. I've checked and greased all the u joints. Disconnected the carrier bearing and separated the drive shaft and greased it up. Still get the noise I have very little play in the carrier bearing but I don't think that's the problem. It sounds to me like might be at the transmission. What do y'all think it is?
View 2 RepliesThats the sound coming from I think the front left area and the rate is proportional to speed. It only occurs at slow speed from about 5 to 15 mph and it seems to only occur for about 30% of each rotation. I plan to jack it up and check tire wobble or if the sound occurs during free spin. Any other things to check?
View 11 RepliesOk, so I leave the fire station this morning headed home and my steering felt weird. About 1/2 mile from home I hit a bump and my drivers side front wheel started making a screeching noise. I stopped and looked out the window and it appeared fine. I limped home and as I pull in the driveway, I lost all my steering. I look under the truck and this is what I found.
Not sure what to do. This is my daily driver and neither of my 2 mechanic friends will answer their phones.
The past few weeks my truck has occasionally shown no signs of life when trying to start it. It goes through the "Wait to Start" routine and then when the key is turned ... nothing. No clicking, no cranking, nothing. All other electronics seem to work just fine.
This might happen only once ... or up to three times before it decides to crank. So far, it has eventually started on subsequent tries. When it does finally crank, it fires right away as usual and everything is as it should be and it runs great. No unusual smoke, noises or anything else.
This may be unrelated to the above issue but I noticed that lately once in a while, the back up sensors remained silent while I'm reversing and close to an object when I know they should have been beeping. (the audible override was not turned on either).
I may be grasping at straws here but would anything going wrong with the gear selector shifter cause both of these problems to surface? Like the lever isn't seating correctly and causing these issues? I also realize the two problems could be (and possibly are) totally unrelated.
I can live with the backup beeper not working but I can't survive with the truck being unreliable and not starting whenever it feels like it. It has newer, strong batteries and when it does crank, it's a "strong, fast" crank like normal.
I have developed a sounds that sounds like metal on metal. Not a grinding but more of a "swish swish swish" light metal rubbing when the truck has been running a mile or two. I can barely hear it over the radio but its very noticeable when the window is down. It is not affected by the pressing the brakes and it gets louder and faster in direct portion to speed. It will occasionally leave and start right back up. I touched the front rim around the hub and it was hotter than I wanted to hold onto. It didn't burn but it was hot. It was 105 degrees that day. Here is what I have done.
I replaced that front hub in 2010 and probably have 50K miles on it. I did the 3-9 test and there was no noticeable play. I spun the hub and while it seems to spin ok it does seem a little dry.... I will pull it tomorrow and see what it looks like.
I pulled the calipers off and the brakes pads are at half way and there is no burnt smell. I spun the rotor and it seemed flat and straight. I do have a small tiny lip all the way around them on both sides but I figured that's normal with 265K. I pulled the pins and they were dry but they didn't seem to be sticking. I cleaned them up with the boots and am going to replace them when I get some brake grease tomorrow. I have not looked real hard at the caliper but I plan on pressing that with a C-Clamp tomorrow to check it. Since the rotors and pads looked OK, I assumed there was not a stuck caliper although haven't ruled it out. The axle behind the hub seem to spin freely before I removed all this stuff and the hubs are not locked.
I think I covered it all .. I also thought it could be a rock or stick but nothing came out of my caliper or rotor when I took them off ..
I'm getting a sound every now and then of what sounds like i'm running over rumble strips on the side of the highway. I'm guessing it's the trans grinding. Any thoughts?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2002 f350 dually with a 7.3 and 197k. At 186k it died while driving and I had it towed home. As soon as the tow truck dropped it the truck fired right up like nothing was wrong. Then it died again 2 days later. I replaced the cps, but the fix was replacing the icp and pigtail. Now it is doing the same thing again. It died on my wife while driving yesterday, i had it towed to the dealership I work at and it started and ran for about 2 hours with no issues. I hooked up the factory IDS and had a diesel tech look at it with me. The oil pressure, injector circuit and injectors, and IPR all look good. The batteries were a little weak so i replaced both of them. I drove it home yesterday, about 10 miles, and drove it around town today. Then i tried to jump start my 96 bronco and after about 10 minutes of running it sort of hick uped then 5 minutes later it died and would not start. I let it set for 30 minutes and it started and died after about a minute.
View 2 Replies2002 F350 7.3 intermittently wont start after I've shut it off, it runs fine but sometimes won't start when it's (warm)? Wait hour or more and it starts right up.
Is there something I can look for before I bring it to a mechanic?
Just to clarify I am a gal with little wrenching skills but I can look at videos and follow directions if it's not too involved.
I have a 99 f450 with a 7.3. Here lately it has been "missing" when driving or idling, but only every now and then. When driving down the road it will start bucking and boiling black smoke out then the ses light will come on and like turning a switch everything clears up and it acts and drives normal.
View 11 RepliesJust got myself a gently used Econoline E-350 7.3 Diesel and was loving it when she ran:
E-350 7.3 Diesel
Recently I have been having some charging issues. It started with it intermittently having a hard time to start, especially when it was warm. I carried a jump box with me and that always seemed to work. Then I noticed the voltmeter on the dash dropping. It went down to the 8 and I was like something is wrong.
Checked the battery voltage, it was at 9.6v. OK, maybe alternator isn't charging. Advance Auto tested the alternator, said it was bad. I replaced alternator. No difference. I pulled the battery and ran it on a conditioner to bring it up to proper voltage. It's now at 12.6v resting. Starts the van no problem. When running though the voltage doesn't increase to 13-14 volts like it should though telling me the alternator isn't doing it's job. Increasing engine RPM actually decreases voltage? Checked all the obvious things like bad grounds but everything seemed clean.
The only thing that was fishy was when I pulled the three way plug from the alternator, one of the pins had corrosion on it. I cleaned it up before installing the new alternator. I didn't do a diode test on the new alternator because I figured it was new, but hey maybe I got a lemon?
Anyway I'm going crazy trying to figure out where the problem is. All fuses are ok. Is there an external regulator or something I should be on the lookout for? Is there anything else that could be causing a non charging issue? The battery was manufactured in 2014 so it's relatively new.
And on a random note my ABS light is now on?
Alternator locked up in a parking lot. Replaced it and had to replace pigtail due to a loose wire in the harness. Now battery light comes on intermittently. New alternator is doing fine producing anywhere from 13.9v to. 14.4v. No output voltage correlation to battery light at all. The belt is still in great shape so I don't suspect slipping. Fortunately I caught the old one locking up almost immediately and had recently replaced the belt. Output voltage looks great. Are there any fuses for alternator?
Only thing I can think of that I did...when splicing in the pigtail that connects to the alternator, I briefly grounded whatever wire in the pigtail is hot. Was just a split second, but enough to see a spark and maybe enough to blow a fuse? I've seen people reference an "under hood" fuse box, but I don't seem to have one. My truck is a 2002 CC with just over 100k on the clock.
I'm running a 2000 f250 7.3. The truck has been stumbling for the last two years intermittently. I did the 50 cent mod last fall to the uvch's. Changed CPS, idm, air flow sensor. This last week it finally threw the p1316 code so I have something to go off of. Trucks falling on its face so I parked it. Tore it down last night. Ohm tested all the injectors last night cold and all read around 3ohms. Tested the uvch's and continuity looks good on both sides. Tested them through the valve cover seal, tested fine. Tested them through the first harness and fine. All I have left to check is all the way to the idm. Still no luck finding the problem.
View 9 Replies