Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Front Driveline Has Tiny Bit Of Slop Where Splines Go Into The Yoke / Rattling
Apr 24, 2016
While chasing rattles I found my front driveline has a tiny bit of slop where the splines go into the yoke. (There is a bellows seal there just like the rear driveline so I am assuming it is a splined shaft into a yoke). Pounding on it with my fist there is a definite rattle and grabbing both halves you can feel a slight bit of play while twisting it back and forth. The rattle sounds a lot like the one I am hearing when I hit small bumps. Is this normal or should there be zero slop in that joint? By the way the u joints feel and look solid.
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Steering wise, it seems very likely that I'm due for a steering box. Lots of slop when I turned the wheels back and forth. Also, as per the seller, it seems like the the wheel bearings and ball joints are in good shape.
The sway bar end link bushings are smoked, so those need replacing. As for oil leaks. I'm thinking it would be best to pull the motor. It looks like this engine has had the pan off, but I do believe I have a front pain leak. The crank case breather is going into the intake which is annoying. And I believe the intercooler is full of oil, explaining the mystery oil leak by the passenger side intercooler boot.
Couldn't see any oil in the valley of the motor but I see oil coming down the down pipe of the exhaust, out the bell housing of the motor and dripping from a weep hole maybe 8 inches down the transmission as well? Seeing as to how I'm not sure what clutch I have, it make sense to pull the trans. And If I have the dreaded oil pan leak and a intercooler full of oil, why not just pull the motor? I'd also like to trim out the front panel for 05+ head lights and clean up the wiring on this thing. Found a cheesy electric compressor for a small horn. Sounds like a clown horn, no kidding.
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I've had a rattling/clunking sound from my front left wheel recently so I jacked up that corner. As soon as the tire elevated off the ground the bottom fell inward. I could easily push the top of the tire inward and pull the bottom of the tire outward. Does this lead to a bad hub or bad ball joint(s)?
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Moving my worldly goods from California to Oklahoma in a rented 26' box truck with my wife following in our '02 F350 loaded to the gills with my lathe, mill, air compressor, weld and assorted machinery. Just west of Deming NM it started to blow lots of white smoke and down on power. Some rattling noises from the engine when throttled up & won't reach 3000RPM.
Had it towed to an impound yard for storage. Plan on sending a flat bed to pick it up when we get to Tulsa.
Any experience with a tilt back trailer capable of loading & transporting this truck that weighs around 17,000 pounds? My plan is to continue on to Tulsa & make arrangements from there.
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I have a 2000 F250 super cab and the doors rattle going over bumps. I've seen the weather stripping mod and intend to do this but my drivers side doors are touching at the top. Would this indicate that the busings are shot? With the doors open, when I lift on the outer edge there is no movement in the hinge area. The drives door and drivers side back door actually touch and rub at the top. Any pointers?
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My 2wd truck sits just a tiny bit low in the front. I see a lot of the hockey puck leveling kits on ebay but there are SO many options that I don't know where to turn. I want to up 1 inch and id like to use a nylon or rubber spacer. Will I need shock extensions?
Also do the 4wd trucks use the same front coil springs? I looked under a 4wd truck today and noticed it has a big rubber isolator on top of the spring that my truck does not have.
Here's how it sits with 2 dirt bikes in it. Maybe I'll even go up a squeak in the back too, just to bring it up to 4x4 height.
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Doing some suspension work this weekend. Wondering where the best place for jacking up my truck (99 f250 SD 4wd). I need to take the U bolts off so I can't put the jack there. I've got a 2 ton, 3 ton, and 25 ton jack. Only one stand. I need the whole rear end jacked up at the same time. Same for the front. I've heard your not supposed to place the jack on the pumpkin. Is it OK to just jack it up by the axle and put the stand as close to the outside as possible?
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I have the dreaded slip yoke clunk, I used the FORD SPEC PTFE lube and it works for a while until the tranny fluid that makes its way onto the slip yoke dissolves it!! Replacing the slip yoke with an updated one?
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I have an new to me 1999 4x4 F350 that I was giving a good once over today on the front end since it wanders a little bit. but anyways I didnt see a abs sensor wire on the front. the plugs are there behind the inner fender well and it looks like there is a plug when the sensor should go in the wheel bearing. was 2 wheel abs an option on these trucks? is there anything else this changes front end wise?
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I noticed a clunk a while ago but could never pin point it and today its the worse it has ever been. I did some research on this and everyone is pointing towards sway bar bushings. now if that is the case why wouldn't they just replace the sway bar link? I see some do poly bushings and others regular rubber. What is the best way to go about this? and I also see you need a shop press so I'm lucky I have one.
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Been trying to track down a noise in the front end. Got a growl and what sounds like a big cat scratching its nails on a metal plate. The metal sound comes and goes, but the growl is always present at one level or another. It sounded like it was coming from the driver's side. I jacked the truck and checked everything on that side and it seemed tight. It was all replaced about two years ago. I then started looking around and found the sway bar links were shot along with the bushings. I then jacked up the passenger's side and checked that.
Should have done this first as it was pulling to the right and not the left. The wheel was hard to rotate and stopped rotating as soon as I stopped forcing it. It was making a growling noise, but not nearly as loud as when the truck was rolling down the road. It also had a bit of play that I tracked down to the hub assembly. The ball joints and u-joints were tight with no play at all. The dust seal that should be on the axle was gone and the hub seal looked beat. Tie rod ends all seemed good. Ordering part now. My question is there anything else I should look at?
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After some diag I got the A/C to blow out the front vents. There are million threads on this issue half of them are never figured out. This is the second time I have come across this problem so will make this really informative for those who have this problem. If you A/C blows to defrost, yes most of the time its going to be a vacuum leak issue.
Step 1) turnkey on engine off, stand by passenger fender and listen.. can you hear the pump running? If it is your pump isn’t dead.
Step 2) does the pump run for 30 seconds then shut off? You may not have a vacuum leak. If keep’s running for ever you have a leak. Inspect all lines, especially those going down to the hubs for cracks. Also inspect vacuum lines under passenger glovebox.
Step 3) can’t find a leak? Disconnect the line going to the ESOF solenoid and plug it, if you pump stops running then your ESOF solenoid has an internal leak. That was my problem 6 months ago, replaced ESOF, A/C blows normally.
Try This Second! So my AC isn't blowing through my front vents again.... (more diag)
AC not blowing through vents and can’t find a vacuum leak? Take off glove box door, turn AC control switch to floor/defrost/front vents, watch the metal arm connected to the side of the big black box move up and down into various positions. I noticed on mine the arm will go down in positions (floor or defrost) But it will not move up! Which needs to happen to switch to front vents. If I push the rod up by hand manually, the ac will blow through front vents, and stay blowing through front vents even after I let go. PIC of metal arm thing connected to diaphragm, which changes air flow by moving flap inside the big black box
I am guessing the Diaphragm is the issue? The truck will continue to blow from the front vents even when the truck is shut off and restarted, it will stop when I switch the ac to a different position, it will not return back to front vents.
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With the cold weather lately, I've noticed my truck has developed a new noise from the front axle. It only does it when the truck has sat for a few hours, is completely cold (below 30*), and the hubs are locked. It will only make the noise going forward. I've eliminated brakes and hub assembly as the source since the noise is only made when the hubs are locked, or when the shifter is in 4x4 with the hubs unlocked.
Its a squeak, squeak, squeak noise that seems to be with every revolution of the tire and it goes away after driving 50-100 feet. All the u-joints are tight and I can't make the noise spinning the front driveshaft by hand. The brakes have 9000 miles on them with hawk pads and powerstop cryo rotors. Neither hub assembly has play and all the ball joints are tight. I do leave the hubs locked almost year round, so there's probably a good 40k on them.
I was thinking of throwing some new u-joints on and seeing what happened, but I'm guessing the whole axle shaft has to get pulled to do the ones at the steering knuckles?
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I have this strange noise coming from the front end. It happens at the most random times. It is at the end of the video. It's kinda hard to hear over the engine noise.
[URL]
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My truck has been doing great over here in Germany, and I want it to stay that way lol. I know the snow is fast approaching here and figured I should test my 4x4(I usually do monthly anyway). After switching to 4-high and making the first turn in the open parking lot, I heard a lot of popping and grinding from the front end. I straightened the wheel and out and the grinding /popping continued.
I stopped, got out of the truck to try and lock the hubs to see if that would fix the issue. turns out the passenger side hub is locked up tight. I couldnt move it by hand and wasnt about to attempt to move it with added leverage.
What this could be? maybe a collapsed vacuum hose? but then I should still be able to manually turn my I hubs I would think.
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I've put 6k on the truck since the dealership replaced the front rotors and pads but they started to warp a few hundred miles ago. I do have a lift and new 37" tires so I was wondering what rotor / pad combo works best for larger tires and towing. I was looking at EBC kits but I'm sure there are better and cheaper options...
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All vacuum lines are good, pump works, Canister isn't leaking, 4x4 activates and I can feel it, so Can't be vacuum leak. Replaced esof solenoid 6 months ago last time this happened, but this issue seems to be different. Watch this vid I made showing the issue.. after viewing video, do yall' agree I isolated the issue? If that one tug makes the air go through the front vents, that means everything else in the A/C mode selection works..
YouTube.....
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Any reason why I couldn't use my Curt front mount receiver hitch to lift the front wheels off the ground? It is bolted to the front spring hangers.
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Truck is an '07 F350 Supercrew, 8ft bed, SRW, 2wd. I bought the truck last month and noticed a low frequency driveline vibration starting at about 45 mph and is noticeable to about 65 mph. Feels like a bad u-joint. So I pulled the drive shaft (two piece) and checked the joints. They seemed find so I sent it to a commercial truck shop that does driveshaft work. Had the joints replaced and the shaft rebalanced.
Re-installed drive shaft and went for a test drive. No real change in the vibration. The hangar bearing seemed fine so it wasn't changed. Doesn't feel like a wheel out of balance. My experience tells me its a drive shaft.
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I have developed an oil leak from the bottom of the front crank shaft (front of the motor). How hard of a repair is this? any links to any tutorials? Should I even try this myself? Any special tools required?
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Rebuilt the front end last year on this truck. I now own it. Front end is really tight, not as in hard to steer. It doesn't straighten up when you go around a corner completely. Going straight it drifts, 0 slack in the steering wheel. Constantly correcting it. Now my 95, I can turn it slightly going down the highway and it will turn back straight.
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