Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Floor And Defrost Work But Dash Vents Not Working
Oct 3, 2015
The floor and defrost vents work. It just stays on defrost when you try to use the dash vents. The actuator seems to be working fine. I can watch the arm move through all the motions. and I cant find ANY vacuum leaks. Yes I looked at the hubs and under the hood. May be moving to alaska and kind of need my heater to work properly. . . .
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No matter what I do with the settings for my heater in my lariat air only blows out of the dash vents. Defrost and floor vents don't work it still blows hot air out of the dash vents. I'm not sure what the deal is maybe the vacuum system? I did a search and all I could find was people having trouble with air ONLY blowing out of the defroster and my case is just the opposite.
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Air is only blowing through the defrost vents. No matter what I do - try to turn vents, A/C, heat, fresh air, recirculating, etc. Assume it's a switch or fuse issue somewhere. How to fix it?
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As the title implies, that is my problem. Can't get the AC to come out of anywhere other than the windshield defrost vents. Y'all ever encountered this before?
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My 01 ac has worked just fine up until today. I got in this morning to leave the house and the air was only coming out of the defrost vents. I tried playing with the controls to get it to switch but couldn't. I assume its a vacuum leak, but where do I need to start looking?
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1998 F150 XLT 4.6l automatic,,,
Drove the truck on a trip the other day, about 650 miles with a loaded 5x8 trailer in tow. A/C started acting weird. When the truck was on level ground, or going down hill, the A/C was fine. Cold air coming out the correct dash vents. As soon as I started up hill, or put the truck under strain of acceleration, the A/C would stop blowing out the dash vents and would start coming out the floor or defrost vents, or just not come out anywhere.
When I turned the A/C off and just used the vent setting, it would do the same thing with the fresh air. I guessing this has something to do with my vacuum lines, somewhere. What I should be looking for and where?
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2002 - 7.3 lariat, my a/c stays on max because of the recirculating effect. When I get in the next morning during summer of course, my dash vents take a few seconds to begin, default defrost till that time passes. Sure I know about leaks and redone all that to make my vacuum hubs work correctly. It didn't begin till later not right after that overhaul.
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I noticed a couple weeks ago after starting the truck and turning on the a/c that nothing was coming out of the vents. I found it odd when after driving a few miles the a/c kicked in and started blowing cold air. Today I needed to put on the defrost and same thing, nothing came out of the vents. I drove around for a while hoping it would kick in just like the a/c did but nothing. I did check the fuses and relay. When you turn the control either to heat or a/c you can hear a clicking sound under the hood. It's trying to engage but nothing is coming out of the vents.
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My nav. when I put the air cond on auto and lower the temp so the air comes on, it blows out the vents on the front of the dash like it should and is cold. Then after about 30 seconds give or take, I hear a door deep inside the dash shut, or open, then the cold air only comes out the dash vents that are the defrosters for the windshield.
Then I can make it go back to the front vents again by pushing the button on the heater control to make the cold air come out the front vents again, but then it does the same thing again. Whats going to need to be replaced/repaired?
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I recently found out that my check valve needs replacing for my a/c vacuum. The problem came from when I turn my AC on, the panel vents do not work. Instead, the Defrost vents push the AC air out. How to replace the vacuum check valve? I would like to avoid the high cost of dealership prices.
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My dad just got a 2012 Camry LE, with the 4 cylinder engine. The heater seems to be working fine except for the floor vents. When I select that option on the HVAC control, I can hear the fan working but there's absolutely no airflow coming out from under the dash.
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I have a 2010 f-150. Started having issues with the blend door actuator located behind the radio so replaced that a couple months ago and fixed issue. Now the a/c will only blow through the defrost and floor vents. I replaced the lower blend door actuator thinking that might be the culprit, but did not fix the problem. What the solution might be.
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When the A/C is on in this car, the air flow is split between the defrost vents and the dash vents. I have read it may be a vacuum leak but don't know specifically where to look for it. Is there any way to manually redirect the air flow? Where to look for a vacuum leak? The air is cool but just misdirected.
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My truck is a 2007 F-350 DRW. I'm not sure when,because I don't use it much in Texas, but My Four Wheel Indicator lights on the dash quit working. I don't see them in the dash at startup either. I'm not sure if the four wheel drive is coming on at all. There is probably a way to check that without driving off into a mud bog, right? Anyway I have looked for blown fuses etc, no luck yet. (15amp#33 under dash and 30amp#3 under hood). These are according to my manual.
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I have a 2000 450, and the a/c keeps switching to defrost by itself. Any way to fix??
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My 99' started o blow air only through the defrost vent today, and won't go through any of the other vents. I think this happens when your vacuum pump goes bad or there is a leak, correct? If so, how can I test these to figure out the problem.
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Proud new owner of a 2001 7.3....today. The previous owner installed Warn standard hubs. I assume they work same as OEM with the exception that I have to get out and lock them, right? Also, when I test drove it, and after locking them, I engaged to 4x4 button and the 4x4 engaged and worked. However, when I disengaged my AC went to defrost just like my old 7.3. The AC eventually came back. Is this normal? I think it also went to defrost when I engaged. The AC does come back after a couple minutes after disengaging.
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I have Warn hubs that I have to lock in. All works good. A/C goes to defrost at first when cranking but then runs fine after a couple seconds. So, I was thinking that maybe my pump is running all the time. Who knows. I'm sure all my vacuum lines are dry rotted. What exactly is the need for it exactly and what's the best way to cap? Hoping to do it at the unit itself if possible.
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I bought a 2002 body with a late 99 engine with lower miles a couple years ago. I knew it had an oil leak when I bought it. My other truck had a turbo pedestal leak. This truck has a small pedestal leak but it's not that much of an issue as there is little oil in the valley and next to nothing running down the back of the engine.
The other leak is getting worse. It has been leaking somewhere up front and coats the main steering arm off the steering box, the lower rad hose and the rest of the steering linkage. Last night after driving around 100 Kms I have oil running out from under the engine across the floor.
I changed the LPOP after thinking the front leak was from there. Unfortunately i don't think it was.
I am hoping it's the oil cooler and not the HPOP. One other thing is before yesterday's trip, I installed my homemade ccv mod off my other truck. I don't think the leak is coming from that either.
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Okay I'm also having issues with vibrations on the floor board. I replaced the carrier bearing last week and not sure if correctly done or maybe I didn't get the splines in the exact order they came out in but the vibration is still there if not worse. I was thinking I could order a new rear drive shaft for around 350.00? would it matter how it was installed?
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After some diag I got the A/C to blow out the front vents. There are million threads on this issue half of them are never figured out. This is the second time I have come across this problem so will make this really informative for those who have this problem. If you A/C blows to defrost, yes most of the time its going to be a vacuum leak issue.
Step 1) turnkey on engine off, stand by passenger fender and listen.. can you hear the pump running? If it is your pump isn’t dead.
Step 2) does the pump run for 30 seconds then shut off? You may not have a vacuum leak. If keep’s running for ever you have a leak. Inspect all lines, especially those going down to the hubs for cracks. Also inspect vacuum lines under passenger glovebox.
Step 3) can’t find a leak? Disconnect the line going to the ESOF solenoid and plug it, if you pump stops running then your ESOF solenoid has an internal leak. That was my problem 6 months ago, replaced ESOF, A/C blows normally.
Try This Second! So my AC isn't blowing through my front vents again.... (more diag)
AC not blowing through vents and can’t find a vacuum leak? Take off glove box door, turn AC control switch to floor/defrost/front vents, watch the metal arm connected to the side of the big black box move up and down into various positions. I noticed on mine the arm will go down in positions (floor or defrost) But it will not move up! Which needs to happen to switch to front vents. If I push the rod up by hand manually, the ac will blow through front vents, and stay blowing through front vents even after I let go. PIC of metal arm thing connected to diaphragm, which changes air flow by moving flap inside the big black box
I am guessing the Diaphragm is the issue? The truck will continue to blow from the front vents even when the truck is shut off and restarted, it will stop when I switch the ac to a different position, it will not return back to front vents.
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