Plugged in my ScanGaugeII on a whim, it's usually on my 6.5 Suburban daily drivers, but was curious to monitor a few things on the 7.3
Noticed this right away, coolant temp reading a solid -40*F and never budging.
I drove my 99.5 7.3 F-350 1 mile to a friends and hooked it to the OBDII to get a code for my abs light.it had not been drove all day. we hooked into the pcm and he noticed the temp at 375* it was idling. is this right he didnt think it should have been that high???Will the engine coolant temp sensor, if it were bad,show a high temp of 375*? On the OBDII it showed a temp of 375* .....
View 14 RepliesI was going to order a ECT gauge and was wondering where to mount the sensor. I have already used the port under the T-stat for the coolant filter. The gauge sensor is a 1/8 NPT. Would the block drains be a good location, or is there another location that will work.
I know the coolant filter housing has a port, but I would prefer the sensor be on the motor.
Coolant temps getting much higher than oil temps under load. Is there any problem that could cause this other than a bad temperature sensor? Reading temps with an Edge CTS 2 monitor. Think I'm going to hook up a mechanical gauge in the morning and see what it shows.
View 8 RepliesNoticed a while back that the plug for what I assume is the air intake temp sensor is looped. I assume because I can't find the sensor anywhere. how critical is the sensor? The new S&B has a hole for it so it's either gonna need a new sensor or a plug. The local autozone has one for 16.99.
View 12 RepliesFor some reason my OH display decided to show 140 deg F when its 40 deg F outside. Continues to show 140 all the time now regardless of out side temp. In case its the related outside temp sensor sending unit, where it is exactly on an 02. Unless someone has solution may try changing that out to see if that is the problem?
View 14 RepliesEver since having the EGR delete done, the oil temp has been LOWER than the coolant temp. I am assuming this is bad info from the sending unit? They are reading with in a degree of each other at start up, but when at operating temp the gauge will read lower. Before the EGR delete I had a delta of about 4-7* oil hotter than coolant.
View 1 RepliesWhere exactly is the coolant temp sensor located on a 2000 F-150 4.6 V-8.
View 5 RepliesMy first Prius, an 05 has 249K and performs pretty much flawlessly. My second, an 04 which I purchased in May, has 75K. While driving the 04 yesterday, all the lights came on the dash and really scared me. I immediately pulled off the road and checked belt, fluids and anything else I could. I then called the dealer and they thought since the car was running normal, to bring it in. For a hundred dollars I was told the HV battery, though working and not a problem, would have to be replaced due to a faulty "battery temp sensor" and that this part is not repairable....I need a new battery! Code POA9B ... Tomorrow I am taking the rear panel out and check the HV battery fan, etc. Can I drive the car with these lights on? Everything seems to work but the CC.
View 9 RepliesLooking for a wiring diagram for the coolant temp sensor? 1999 F250 SD V10....
View 4 RepliesMy Bank 2 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor is faulty and I need to replace it. The guys at the parts store were pretty certain it is downstream driver's side, but I just want to make sure before I PB Blasted and removed it. 2008 F250 SD v10 ....
View 1 RepliesI went to emissions test my 2002 Accent, 1.5L 5spd, and failed because of a faulty engine coolant sensor. Problem is, I can't find it anywhere! Worse, I can't find anything online either. I have my second child on the way and need to sell the car and this is the only thing preventing me to sell. Is it worth it to replace myself or to take to a shop and have them do it.
View 6 RepliesI recently got the solid check engine light for my 2003 VW Jetta 1.8T GLS. I used a bluetooth OBDII dongle and Torque Pro to pull the code P0118. This seems to coincide with my symptoms:
Car idle at start in park stays around 1100RPM then in reverse it drops to 1000RPM then back into park and it stays around 900RPM and keeps that at idle.
If I start the car then immediately reverse out of my driveway then the car has a very rough idle but if I wait around 5 seconds in park idle then reverse out of my driveway it is smooth.
My car dash thermometer stays pretty close to the bottom low then after about 4-5 minutes it shoots up to 190F and stays. Gas mileage is also very poor.
I looked up a tutorial which shows the parts needed and how to replace the sensor : [URL] .....
I removed the engine cover and believe I found the coolant temp sensor in the spot the tutorial shows. My question is if there is anything I should be aware of before attempting to replace this sensor that this tutorial doesn't cover? I took a screenshot of what I believe is the coolant temp sensor.
I notice my trans temp gets really hot fast. For instance just moving my trailer from front of my house to side yard makes temp go to 250. Without any load and driving a couple miles it does the same thing. It's been doing it since I installed the trans temp gauge just trying to figure out what's up.
View 14 RepliesI've searched, and gone back through my computer history and can't find it. I have seen a thread here which Mark contributed too which said what the max temps were and for how long etc. I know book is 230 and optimum is around 165 but there was some degree of play in that.
View 8 Replies I wanted to specifically ask about the block heater though. Since I bought this truck I never was able to start the truck without plugging it in. Now that it's not running I'm thinking much more about the block heater.
Is 56 too low for this old truck to start? What temp should a block heater have the oil temp as seen by AE be?
I live in the southwest so it's not very cold here. plugging in the heater was even required in the summer unless the truck had been running. What kinds of engine trouble would require being plugged in in warm conditions?
I will start off with saying I am posting this for my dad. His truck is a 1999 F350 crew cab DRW 4x4 auto 7.3 with about 189K miles on it. He is leaving wednesday on a cross country road trip pulling a 40FT 5th wheel (no idea the weight but the thing is huge). He has glowshift gauges installed, one of which is the trans temp gauge. I believe the transmissions on these are 4R100, but I am not positive about that, but I'm sure many people here will know. He just told me that he had the mechanic he goes to replace the pan gasket on the transmission because it leaked quite a bit, just as a precaution. He also had them replace the brake booster as it was leaking inside by the brake pedal. When he got it back, he said he was driving it, and the temperature started going up to I believe 220 degrees not pulling anything. He said since he installed the gauges it has been between 180-190, and it jumped to 220.
What this could be. I have read that the TFT sensor can cause this issue, but it would throw a code and possibly go into limp mode. He has no check engine light and it was driving just fine. So the temperature is just all of a sudden high. Fluid level is fine, was checked after about an hour of driving, is red, and doesn't smell bad. I am suspecting the temperature isn't actually hotter, so there is another issue. It's only a big deal now because in a few days he will be dragging a huge 5th wheel behind him.
Last year, we towed some pile of crap 5th wheel down to our city for somebody with his truck, and we had to pull over halfway back because it started to smell like something burning. We think it was the trailer, as the brakes were questionable on them. When we got it to the people we were delivering it to, when we left, it wouldn't shift passed 2nd gear. He only lived a few miles from there, so he drove it home, parked it, then went out the next day and it was fine. He had the fluid flushed later and that issue hasn't come back since. No other work was performed on it since the pan gasket a few days ago. I am not sure if they are related being a year apart, but figured I'd mention it anyways.
i have a 99 f250 7.3 powerstroke. the cam sensor was acting up. that what the scan tool said. i replaced the cam position sensor yesterday, and the truck is still acting up. the motor hitches and will shut off randomly. it tripped the check engine light, and the code is the "cam position sensor" once the truck is warmed up and shut down for like 10 minutes the sensor will not act up anymore. if i just start the truck and run it, even once it is up to tempature it will act up. but if i shut the truck down for about 10 minutes, it goes away. is there something else that could be causing this?
View 14 RepliesMy friend bartered for a '99 F250, 2wd/auto, 4 door, 7.3, 258k miles.
It had reportedly sat for one year, though the expired registration sticker and other things point to it sitting for two.
It ran low on oil, sputtered and died. Oil in the degas tank. Filled to oil to mid way on the hatch marks on the dip stick.
I drove it 25 miles to my house, and the oil level is not reading on the dip stick.
The sludgy fluid level in the degas tank is unchanged. Where is the fluid going?
I will refill the oil to see just how much it lost in the 25 miles if it important to someone, but I prefer to not waste the oil.
My first plan is to remove, inspect and replace the oil cooler o-rings. Even though the dealership charged him for this, I don't trust that they did it right. I think it is the easiest and mostly likely place for oil getting into the coolant.
It does have a really long crank before there is enough low pressure oil for it to start. At the moment I think this is a separate issue.
The dealership also charged him for a replacement injector. No idea if they replaced the cup or not.
I've read some treads on the temp gauge sending unit but I'm a little foggy on where to look for my problem. I just purchased a 2000 F250 7.3, temp gauge not working. It has a new sending unit. I read some threads about the voltage at the plug but I have no voltage on either side of the plug. The way I understand it red/white wire goes to the battery. Is there a fuse between them and which one is it? and if fuse is ok is there a cronic problem that someone might know of that I can look for?
View 7 RepliesI've been searching for a while now but have not found an exact match to my problem.
So, Yesterday I was pulling a large load home (15K lbs) over flat land/small rolling hills and I experienced a coolant temp spike. And I am trying to figure out what caused it. I was traveling 65 mph about 2k rpm and 20lbs of boost, I was motioning the ECT, EOT, TFT, and Fan Speed via my scanguage and 99% of the time the ECT was in the 209-220 range, once it got up to 220 the fan would come on and the ECT would drop to 209 ish pretty quickly.
However, twice the ECT shot up from 215 ish to 240 within seconds then the dash indicator said check coolant temp then the fan came on and cooled it down to 200 within seconds, I did lose about 1/2 gal of coolant. So today I'm going to get a new degas cap (still OEM original) and continue to monitor the situation.
My EOT ECT delta has been a constant 10-13 degrees for the 3 years i've been monitoring it so i believe my oil cooler is still functions within spec and all my cold soak temps are within a degree or two for various ambient temps (20 -80) so all my sensors should be good.
Also, tonight I'm going to pull the EGR valve and check if there is any coolant in the intake, but if there is not, where should I start looking and what should I start worrying about e.g. head gaskets?