I had just replaced my the fuel pressure regulator in the fuel bowl because it appeared to be leaking from where the FPR is, now with the new FPR , it is no longer leaking from there but now leaking (fast steady leak while running) from the fuel rail outlet fitting... How do you replace these, why all of the sudden it started leaking there ???
View 9 RepliesTrying to fit my edge fuel pressure sensor. I have a 90* fitting from Diesel O-rings and I can't seem to get the 90 elbow to turn all the way down before it makes contact with the fuel bowl housing. I'm using the drivers side port, should I use the passenger side port? would it have more clearance than the driver side port?
My instinct is to crank it all the way down then tighten the nut, should I just screw it in until it makes contact then tighten the nut? I was worried it wouldn't have enough threads in contact to seal as well as it should and leak.
Last couple of days I've been chasing a small oil leak. Finally figured out it's coming from one of the hoses connected to the lower part of the hpop (hpop hose). Leak is coming from the fitting connected to the lower part of hpop. Do I need to replace the whole hose and fitting? Just the fitting? is there a replaceable washer or oring?
View 10 RepliesNext mods are for the fuel rail cross over and the high pressure oil cross over. I see the unused ports will come in handy.
Fuel delivery? any specialty mods to run the fuel lines? I see it's a #4 ORB fitting. Anyone ever use a "T" or a splitter off the fuel bowl to have a quad line set up?
Saw the FRx from RiffRaff .... not sure how it eliminates air from the system 7.3L Diesel Fuel Rail Crossover? (FRx) 99-03 Powerstroke
The truck has been a dream for several months and I had a coolant leak at the thermostat outlet. Changed the fitting and thermostat and sealed with lots of blue monkey snot. It's been perfect for a couple months but a week ago it started leaking again. Exactly the same as last time. I cleaned the mating surface of the water pump with a plastic scraper to remove the old sealer and then finished it with fine scotch brite. I looked at several parts breakdowns and none of them showed a gasket.......
View 14 RepliesIs this job worth doing as a preventative maintenance item? I replaced the rear fuel rail plug (aka banjo bolt) o-rings because they were very easy to get to with the up-pipes out. But the cylinder head plug in the rear is pretty high up and even with the up-pipes out, there isn't enough room to get a breaker in there that's long enough and has enough movement to loosen it. The front would be easier to get to, but both accessory brackets need to come off to get to them on both sides.
As far as I know, none of them leak but they're all 17 years old... BTW in case you haven't been following, I'm doing up-pipes, injectors, turbo, rebuilt HPOP & fuel bowl, boots & clamps, etc. so I'm trying to knock out any PM items while I have it apart.
I have a 03 F-350, 7.3L. There is a slow oil leak that only leaks after I've run the truck. In other words, it doesn't just sit and leak overnight. I'll park it after running, and the next morning I'll notice a small pool of oil, approximately 2" in diameter. The leak appears to be coming from the oil pan area. I degreased the entire oil pan area to get a better visual of where the leak is coming from. I can see oil trailing down the front of the oil pan and the rear of the oil pan. Does this sound like the gasket? Or, what else could it be? I'm praying its not as bad as I think and need to replace the gasket.
View 3 RepliesIn my motor build I'm replacing the HPOP fittings in the head. Do these need any sort of thread locker to secure?
View 2 RepliesBrothers of fte. I reach out. Tonight it appears I had a fuel bomb under the hood.
I've been chasing a fuel leak. Replaced fuel drain orings but one screw seemed to not snug up. Also the plastic was so brittle I couldn't replace the inner oring. Installed new valve worked great. A week later noticed new slow drips. Replaced fuel filter. Again good for two weeks.
Tonight pulled into the driveway hopped out immediately smelled diesel. Steaming from under hood. Popped the hood and everything was wet. Moved her to the street and it clattered like I was running out of fuel. Still half a tank though. Hosed of the drive. Popped hood again fired it up easily. Started fine. No noticeable leak. But everything is wet from fuel. Insulation on hood was saturated. When I open the hood fuel ran out of the insulation into the air intake. Batteries were wet!
Alright what gives? Do I have to be under load to see this leak?
So I decided to start the year with fresh oil. Like the hundreds of oil changes before, i changed the filter and added new oil. Only this time, oil started to drip off the bottom of the Oil filter at an alarming rate, only when the engine was running.
I figured the filter didn't seal well, so I repeated the oil change process. nothing changed, still leaking.
It was really cold (-10 C) when I did the oil change, I mention this in case it is a contributing consideration.
My truck is a 2000.
2001 193K miles. Has a miss, like starving for fuel. Starts fine and it will clear out at higher RPM, 1800 and up. idles...
View 14 RepliesI've had an engine oil leak for some time. Recently I've had to add about a quart a month. I got some fluorescent dye and added it to the engine oil last time I added a quart. Ran the engine for a few weeks. Then cleaned the engine valley with cleaner and hot water.
Tonight I investigated the top of the engine with a black light. To my surprise, the oil leak is coming from the fuel bowl, right around the drain valve. I can clearly see about a drop every 3 seconds of fluorescent yellow liquid falling into the valley below and yellow all around the valve.
I expected a leak from the HPOP not the fuel bowl. Do I have a bigger problem? Is engine oil getting into the fuel? I plan to replace the seals in the fuel bowl, but not until I know whether I have a larger problem to address.
2001 F250 Crewcab, 220,000 miles
Engine felt like it was running out fuel, injectors were clacking. I got home put on AE and it has a low high open on the code reading. took valve cover off and plug came out. I did the quarter modification.
Anyway took the truck out a few days later truck drove ok when cold then after about an hour it lost power again and started clacking until it died out. I had to stop and let it cool off about 10 times before i made it home. I changed ICP sensor. took it out for ride and about ten minutes later same thing. I have to let oil temp get down to 165 before i can drive it again.
When i first drive it Icp pressure is about 500 at idle and 2650 at full throttle, that is until it starts clacking again and losing power then the engine wont take any throttle..and ICP duty cycle is at 26%... Would bad IPR do this??
I've thought I smelt diesel fuel on an off for a while, but never found the source.
Tonight, 17 degrees out I have fuel in the valley and it appears as if the back of the drain valve is wet.
A fuel bowl rebuild is on the short list. Is this typical, the cold weather brings the issue to light?
I have a very small fuel leak in my 2001 F-250. I was going to just let it go until I needed to do other work (since I get 20mpg city and 25mpg highway), but I went to a "new" inspection guy, and he flunked me. So now I have to fix it. And for all I know, my mpg and fifteen other things will break when I try to fix this.
Today I spent 4 hours in the heat putting in two new o-rings on the water separator valve. But the truck still leaks fuel. Climbed up on top of motor while it was running and looked, but I don't see where the fuel is leaking out.
Online research suggests to me that the next most-likely culprit is a steel fuel line that wears through from vibration and chafing. Is that correct?
This truck is so eaten up with rust (came from salt belt) that I bought a LOT of fuel line stuff a year or so ago, so that when things started falling apart from rust, I would have the parts on hand.
Now I'm wondering whether I already have the part I'm likely to need.
So far, I have bought:
1. Dorman Fuel Supply and Return Lines
2. Riff Raff Diesel High Pressure Crossover (HPx)
3. Riff Raff Diesel Fuel Rail Crossover (FRx)
So my question is, am I likely to have something to replace the part that commonly leaks on these trucks due to vibration/wear/chafing ... or will I still need to buy another part?
I'm thinking that one of the two lines in item #1 above is the problem child...
I've got a late 99 7.3 truck that I just recently did a lot of work on. I installed a new turbo with bellowed up pipes and a new exhaust system and when I went to start it up it started leaking fuel in the back pretty badly. Initially I thought it was the banjo bolt or the passenger fuel line but looking at it more closely I realized that it's not coming from there. It's dripping all over the side of the starter and is collecting at the low point of the metal lines down below. I also saw small droplets coming out of the up pipe where it meets the manifold but it looked like nowhere near enough to produce the kind of leak I'm seeing, also I know fuel shouldn't be coming out of the up pipe to begin with. This is really annoying and I would like to drive my truck again.
View 14 Replies2002 f250 7.3l diesel...
I got a new radiator and the tranny fluid was the worst the mechanic had ever seen. He serviced it and warned me that it might not be long for this world. I broke my flexplate and so I had to pull the tranny, and I decided to throw a new torque converter in because it was giving g me symptoms like a broken sprag( it wouldn't rev up or do a brake stand in gear, therefore slow takeoffs).
I was recommended to replace the tranny, I decided I could do the job again down the road if I needed to. About two thousand miles down the road I had a hard shift going from overdrive down to get up a hill and about 10 miles later the truck started slowing down....I couldn't give it enough pedal to keep it going and the engine sounded rough.
I pulled over and checked fluids and everything was fine, truck idled fine, bright red tranny fluid not burnt at all. Pulled on to the road again and it pulled fine until about 40 mph and it wouldn't go any faster. I got it towed home and ordered up a tranny from Ford figuring it must be toast, but I thought I'd throw it out to the forum to see if there is any other troubleshooting I can do before I install the new one in case it is some other problem or some electrical harness or something, or if that is a pretty standard reaction to a fried tranny.
Engine runs good at idle, shifts perfectly to drive and reverse, drives forward and back(I'm very hesitant to drive it out of the driveway in case I can't get it back in). Only happened two times before I decided to tow it. Temps looked fine on the gauges, fluid was a little overfilled in the tranny, but again, not hot or burnt.
I am having trouble getting my 2000 7.3 (200k) to start on the colder mornings. It will crank over fast, but won't start without a lot of tries. Today it took 6 pre-heats and cranks, but on others (and colder days) it has started easier. It does seem to be getting worse though.
I have replaced the glow plug relay recently so it *shouldn't* be that unless the replacement is fried. Starts fine the rest of the day and drives fine, but not in the cooler am (it was about 34 this morning). I also tested the batteries yesterday and while they aren't new, they tested okay.
Also, I read (briefly) about the CPS, but forgot to watch the tach this morning, but did notice it is pushing smoke out when turning over.
so all of a sudden I put my blinker on and it was flashing fast. My first response was to check if a bulb is out, not the case. Five minutes down the road my brake lights stopped working and the 3rd brake light stays on.. when I put a blinker on the rear lights and 3rd brake light and the lisence plate plate lights all flash at once.
View 3 RepliesMy dad has a 99 F250 with a no start issue. Everything was starting and running fine one day. The next he gets a no start. Cranks fast and fine but wont fire up and start. He has a scangaugeII hooked up to it and his oil pressures and volts look fine. His tach moves when he is trying to start it. He checked the icp sensor and it had oil through it so he replaced it with a Ford part. Unplugged it and the scangauge pressure goes up but no start. He also replaced the ipr with a new Ford one just in case. He checked and is getting low pressure and high pressure oil.
I am having him check the fuel heater fuse #22 to make sure it is not blown. He had the block heater plugged in all night along with a battery charger to make sure they are topped off as well. We have gone through a couple of the checklists on this site for a no start condition but nothing has solved it yet. I think he is sitting at about 200k on the motor. No major issues or problems until now. He is currently also pulling the ICM to check it out as well. No codes are being thrown.
My 2003 6.0 has a coolant leak. It leaks slowly while not running and more quickly while running. I have about an 8 mile drive to work every day, I can make it there and back without having to add coolant but I'm cutting it pretty close by the time I get home. In short I go from the max fill line to bone dry in about 24 hours.
With the truck running I can see water getting slung around all over the front of the engine but the majority of it seems to be coming from around the two larger pulleys in the middle. I've read that this can either be the crankshaft seal or the water pump, any way to know for sure? Any other possibilities?