Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Fairly Loud Clicking / Clunking Sound Coming From Front Under The Hood
Nov 29, 2015
So my '01 E350 has been fine but tonight when I went to start it I didn't get a WTS light and the SES light was on and there was a weird number on my PHP Hydra that looked like r5 ? This happened a few times back to back so I tried starting it and it just cranked and cranked. Wtf? So I started pushing the button on the chip and all of the sudden I got the WTS light and the hydra flashed, now the chip was on tune 10 instead of 5 where it was when I parked it. I should also note that during these episodes there was a fairly loud clicking/clunking sound coming from the drivers front under the hood when I toggle the key on.. Sounds like maybe a relay? Louder than I recall ever hearing.
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I thought there was a v10 specific superduty section like how the psd does, but my thread went in the "performance, engine, troubleshooting" section.
I wanted more exposure than that particular small viewed area.
I don't have a video of the noise, but my 99 f450 v10 5spd has some iffy noise coming from the front. I've read so many threads on this and they either end with "my motor had 1-2-3 bad pistons" or "my flexplate was cracked" and all that dealt with chain tensioners were never finished.
I know what piston slap sounds like (worked on many cobras and lightnings with forged pistons that had it) and have experience with bad wrist pins and broken piston skirts, and this noise doesn't sound like any of it.
Noise is a loud clicking/clunking/Detroit diesel idle noise. When you rev the engine up it doesn't lighten or get better, only worse as rpm goes up. Oil is terrible looking, I'll be getting that changed this week.
Story on truck. I've had this thing for 4 years with blown motor. I got a buddy that acquired a parts truck and he said it ran good. I dropped my truck off and he swapped the engine. I got my truck back running, but with this engine noise. He said it needs to get run some more and change oil.
I think it's timing tensioners, my buddy says it will come out of it, a mechanic friend says it's going to blow up "because they all do" and I don't really want to replace the engine again.
If it's tensioners, how big of a job is it. I have the cam clamps and crank stop and the ford tools to make sure crank and cams don't rotate while apart.
I'm just 650 miles from my truck and may need someone else to do the work. Which sucks.
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2004 Jetta 1.8t manual, sport package with about 85,000 miles on it and I've owned it since new.
About a year ago I had a shop replace the strut bearings while it was in for some other things. After I picked it up my alignment was jacked and there was a binding sound coming from the front end. The shop said the sound was just the springs settling in. It did go away after a while. Still don't understand why the alignment was off but I aligned it myself and all was good for a while.
About two weeks ago I myself replaced:
Lower control arms (stock VW) and ball joints (FEQ or Lemforder, not sure which) with R32 rear bushings and poly front (I HATE poly bushings but that's for another time)
Tie rod ends (FEQ)
Front brakes & rotors (stock VW)
I also threw in a oem Audi lower stress brace while I was under there but I don't think that has anything to do with my problem. Then I took it to a shop to have an alignment done on it. Everything is now within spec except that the caster is 6.6 degrees on the left front and 6.2 degrees on the right front. How does this happen?
So now my problem: There is a fairly loud binding sound coming from the front of the car randomly. It sounds like the coil spring is binding but maybe it is something else? it mostly does it when I reverse for a bit and then put it in first and drive forward or forward then reverse so something is shifting front to back. Steering doesn't really seem to have any noticeable effect.
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I've had a rattling/clunking sound from my front left wheel recently so I jacked up that corner. As soon as the tire elevated off the ground the bottom fell inward. I could easily push the top of the tire inward and pull the bottom of the tire outward. Does this lead to a bad hub or bad ball joint(s)?
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I went to check out a '03 7.3 SD the other day. It didn't seem to have a lot of surge when I accelerated to freeway speeds. Kind of lazy feeling. Didn't smoke out the back though. It did have a front end clunking sound going over the parking lot speed bumps. I opened the oil fill cap while it was idling and it blew a plume of vapor/oil about 9' high like a steam engine puffing. Held my hand over it and got a oil wet palm after just a few seconds. I'm hesitant to drop any $$ on it.
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I have a 2003 Ford F450 super duty xl. At first there was a loud clicking sound coming from under my dash. I charged the battery up and the sound went away but the truck will fire up but not turn over and start. I thought maybe it could be the relays but the clicking sound quit.
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Tonight on my way home I noticed a slight creaking sound, coming from front driver side, opening the window it was more noticeable. So when I got home I have tried to locate the source, it is the same with or without the engine running & you can hear it by rocking the steering just a little left to right. It sounds like a dry bush, I had my good lady rocking the wheel while I climbed underneath but couldn't pinpoint it, so I climbed up on the fender with my weight on the radiator support & the battery cover, when she turned the wheel the sound was almost gone but as soon as I jumped off it was back! I then tried rocking the truck from the driver side fender & the sound is there but not quite so pronounced, Any other way before I spray everything with WD40 (don't know if you have that over there but it usually quietens things like this!) There is no play on anything anywhere & the truck has only around 32k miles.
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I was heading back into town the other day after fueling I accelerated to pass a vehicle then a pop not as loud as a boot blow off followed by smoke entering the cab and under the hood. After going into neutral and keeping the engine on to maintain brake power I came to a rest in a safe area. I was reading online some people rebuild these but I'm a bit hesitant given the tight tolerances of this part and currently leaning towards replacing the cartridge they sell at riff raff (500 plus new hardware) instead of the whole turbo (850). Now it's time to start cleaning the engine/undercarriage after the 255 mile tow home.
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What would be causing this clicking sound coming from my front passenger wheel? Wheel bearing? It ONLY clicks when turning left.
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My Explorer overheated yesterday. Found a very loud hissing sound coming out from under the hood. Let it cool off filled it with antifreeze, started it up, started hissing again. Found the thermostat had broken. Replaced the thermostat. Filled it up again. After replacing the thermostat I found out the hissing sound was coming from the plastic thermostat housing. Replaced the housing. Again I refilled it with antifreeze.
Started to let it warm up and noticed liquid dripping out of the exhaust pipe. Checked it out. Had a green color to it. Then I noticed the coolant resivor was full up to the cap. I did not fill it up past the full line on the side of the resistor. Tried removing the cap.
Found out it had a ton of pressure under it. Bled off the pressure. Refilled it again. Did not put the cap back on. Tried starting it. Instantaneous geyser. Runs like it is missing on 1cylinder. No oil in the coolant that I can see. No coolant in the oil. Could this problem be caused by a blown head gasket of a crack in 1 of the heads or in the block?
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I have 1999 F350 7.3 Crew Cab 4WD. I took it on a 4 hours trip towing a trailer to haul a small tractor on it. after 3 hours of driving, I started hearing grinding and metal chewing sound coming from the front axle or close the wheel hubs. It was awful, terrible, ... you name it!!! I had to continue or I will lose the tractor I paid for already. The sound was coming for 1-2 seconds each 500 feet or so. It never stopped or changed. I pulled over to see what's going on and found the following:
1. Left shock is leaking badly
2. Right locking hub is gone (not sure if the truck had one before). I bought this truck last year, but I never had to use 4x4 and I know the 4x4 motor by the transfer case is missing and the nipple on the transfer case is set to the 2wd position so the front drive-shaft does not turn.
I took the front shock off and continued to drive without it, the noise did not go away.
I pulled over again and this time I noticed that the dust cover on each end of the front axle is missing too. I have never worked on these axles before, but I jacked one side, and sure enough, gear oil was leaking from the other side. I took the plug off the front differential and stuck my finger in it. I felt a creamy brown-greenish stuff in the differential. The consistency is like mayonnaise or thin peanut butter. I put the plug back on and went to pick up the tractor because I did not want to miss it fooling around with the truck on the highway.
The truck made it there and back (almost 5 hours total after the break down). The sound never stopped every 500 to 1000 ft.
After getting home safely, I took the other locking hub off, and took it for a test drive. I did not hear the noise, but now my right brakes are locking.
I took of the wheels and saw that the retaining snap ring (C clip) for the front axle on the right side came off by hand. I took the washers behind it off. Took the calipers and brackets off. I have never done front axle rebuild. I am not sure what has been damaged and what's still good.
Right of the bat, I know, at least, I need 2 shocks, one brake caliper and pads.
My questions are:
1. Is it possible to take the front axles off on both sides and make it 2wd for now until I have the money to rebuild the axle?
2. Could I use the same hubs? or they are most likely damaged and how to tell?
3. How to tell if the differential is damaged/needs rebuilding?
4. How to tell if the axles/spindles are damaged?
5. Is there a step by step tutorial to rebuild the axle with all seals, bearings, ...etc? How hard is the job for a hobbyist? I do most of my repairs myself, and I was lucky at 36 years old, I never had to rebuild a differential.
6. What else I might have damaged in the process of driving it that long with the noise? How do I tell if I did?
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Just noticed a sound of air sucking sound under the hood on heavy acceleration only, the harder I push the louder it gets. Either sucking or hissing sound. I feel no difference in driving. No loss of power or anything else. Just the sound of air coming out like a leaking air line. I will check later this afternoon if its affecting my turbo boost. I have 235000 klms on the clock
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I have a 2000 Ford X diesel with the 7.3 engine. About 2 years ago whenever I would drive it during the summer, and I would shut it off and then a few minutes later tried starting it again, it would start. It doesn't even turn over or making a clicking sound but it acts like the motor is dead. The lights and all the electrical work, but it doesn't turn over at all. It will start back whenever it cools down. It doesn't happen during the winter time or when its cool outside, only when the weather is hot. I've replaced both batteries and the starter but nothing happens. Tonight it did it again and I have to wait 20-30 minutes in the parking lot until it would start again.
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Pulled out of the restaurant I ate dinner at tonight and I lost most power and there's a loud air sucking sound. I felt around all the boots and didn't feel any air, but it was really hot and couldn't feel a whole bunch. It's a 2003 7.3 with 295k. There is a little smoke/soot coming from the turbo area, any chance that's related? I'm perplexed...
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With the tranny in neutral and clutch out is when it is the loudest. With the clutch in their is 0 noise. The sound is a spinning clacketing sound best I can describe. The clutch is 2yrs old and was installed by a local shop using all OEM parts, the fluid level is perfect and looks brand new. The sound has come on gradually over the past 6 months but now can be felt thru the floor at the top of the gears as a rumble. The funny thing is that their are no performance issues like grinding,popping out of gear,hard shifting,etc.
This is not rolling gear mesh it is very loud clacking clunking sound coming directly from the tranny, not the transfer case, nor rears or u joints. This is standing still. Sometimes it will be a little less loud if I roll to a stop in neutral with the clutch out as opposed to gearing down to a stop push clutch in goto neutral and letting clutch out.
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The Truck: 2008 F350 Super Duty, Lariat Crew Cab 6.4 Diesel, Off Road package with just under 90K.
The Noise: It sounds like a cross between Morse code ticking (No Morse code message. I thought of that) and the sound a styrofoam cup makes when it rubs against another cup. The noise is fairly loud. Noticeable at standard conversation speaking levels. Doesn't just go away once it starts.
The Apparent Location Of The Noise: Sounds like it's coming from just right of my center fold down cup holders between the driver and passenger sides of the dash.
Process Of Elimination: No set rule for when it starts to happen but it doesn't happen all the time. SEEMS like it happens after a longer trip.
Air conditioning on or off doesn't make it stop. Fan on or off doesn't change anything. Restarting truck at a stop light doesn't change anything.
Varying truck speed doesn't make a difference. Banging on the dash near the sound doesn't make a difference.
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Just got a weird chemical smell on my way back from lunch and the a/c stopped working. Pulled up to the garage and there was a smell of burning under the hood, plus a fairly loud hum, and also these weird noises that sounded like electrical discharges from underneath.
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I bought a 2000 Ex PSD 4x4 in september. I have refreshed the suspension in the last 4 months; leafs, shocks, etc. I developed a vibration over 50mph after I installed the suspension and have been chasing it since.
I have replaced the U Joints, professionally balanced and lubed driveshaft twice, adjusted driveshaft angle to less than 1*, replaced the flanges for the TC output and the driveshaft companion flange. I have not touched the diff, but there is no decernable play in the pinion or leaks. Also, I removed the rear housing of the TC and replaced the output needle bearing and seal 2 weeks ago.
The output of the TC still has 1/4" play and a clicking noise coming just forward of the chain section of the TC. I assume the play is coming from other bearings on the main shaft in the TC.
I am about to purchase a remanufactured TC, but before I do, I need a reality check. Is it possible there is damage to the output bearing of the Transmission or something else?
I don't want to buy a TC to put in and experience a TC failure again in a short time. It doesn't make sense to me that there would still be so much play after changing the output shaft needle bearing of the TC if the TC main shaft is supported not just from the TC bearings but the output of the transmission unless there was possible play in the output of the transmission.
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I've got a loud, intermittent, swooshing, vibrating noise from the front left wheel area at highway speeds. I put a camera down there and saw that when there was noise, the front driveshaft and front left halfshaft were spinning. When they stopped spinning on their own, the noise stopped. Hubs are Warn Premium (gold) and unlocked. Unit bearing already replaced. What could it be?
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when i accelerate or let off the peddle I hear and aloud thug or dull bang. I've checked and greased all the u joints. Disconnected the carrier bearing and separated the drive shaft and greased it up. Still get the noise I have very little play in the carrier bearing but I don't think that's the problem. It sounds to me like might be at the transmission. What do y'all think it is?
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My 2003 Mustang convertible (6cyl) has recently started making a loud clicking noise under the hood that seems to come on after driving in stop-and-go traffic or when turning on the a/c. I don't notice it when driving on the highway at a relatively steady speed. The clicking will continue for a minute or so and then stop for a while. I had also noticed a strange melting plastic or chemical smell coming from under the hood whenever clicking has happened. I had also noticed a couple weeks ago that at stop lights, the a/c was blowing warm air even when on the coldest setting. The air would then become cold again after driving for about a minute. What could this problem (or problems) be and can I fix it (or them) myself?
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