Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: F550 Rear Diff - While Reversing Clunks?
Dec 7, 2015
I seem to not be catching a whole lot of luck lately. The rear end on my F550 has a bunch of play. Going reverse to drive it clunks pretty bad but no ujoints are bad. I can rotate the yoke by hand and hear clunking so i am guessing the ring and pinion are bad, at 100,000 miles. Seems like the rear ends should be more stout than that, certainly look it.
Where to find a source for reman third members since this one had a drop out? Most axle places won't touch it
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I am changing the rear Diff fluid in my 1999 F250 Super Duty with limited slip differential. I have read in the manual that 8 ounces of friction modifier is required, ford dealer said it only required 4 ounces. I bought 8.
Also I asked for a inspections plate gasket and ford said use silicone... When I removed inspection plate it had a gasket. So, silicone or gasket or both? Differential capacity is 6.9 pints 75w/140w synthetic.
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Ok, I have a early 99 F550 that had a tired engine when I bought it about four years ago, but I kept using it just dealt with the low power and blow by. But last winter I decided the truck deserved a complete overhaul. New cab, new transmission, overhaul the engine, and everything else that goes with. I tore the engine down to find out it was already a ford reman. Had the heads completely gone through, new pistons, new exhaust manifolds, new turbo, brand new injectors, new 4inch exhaust, new valve cover gaskets uvch harnesses and repair ends for harness side, and a new IDM.
Now with everything back together, the truck starts an idles fine but has absolutely no power driving it takes like a half a mile to get to 45mph. No check engine lights no smoke. I took it to ford they said only stored codes were for ebpv which I deleted out of turbo housing they recommended changing injectors. So i did no difference. They also said my hpop was about 1600 at idle. And said that's enough pressure. I did resistance readings on all wires between idm an valve covers.
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I have 01 F550 6spd 4x4. sounds rhythmic, smooth at idle but just over 1200 is a pattern surge but doesn't sound like one cylinder, cel is off, ICP and pigtail changed as it was leaking , no change. From what I've read duty on ICP and IPR should be about same % I've included the codes I've gotten, I have the epc disconnected right now as I thought it was a wastegate issue, checking the ICP plug next,anything I've missed? It had a cyl 8 contribution at idle which I hear is common? Will changing CPS work with that one? Think it's a grey one. There's no water in bowl I replaced filter, since replaced ICP, pigtail, and bleeding fuel bowl and new filter the codes are gone but still misses, will be checking uvch, injector buzz test showed no faults. Old diesel guy said to flood with Stanadyne fuel treat?
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The last couple of days with the temps in the 50's, my 2000 F550 with a 7.3, will start normally and idle fine. When I try to drive it, I get less than a quarter mile and it just looses power and will die.
If I flutter the pedal, sometimes it will keep running, very poorly. And when it does this, it is putting out blue smoke. After it does this, it will run fine. Just like nothing is wrong.
What do I look for, or is this normal. I have had the truck since last October and this is the first time it has acted like this.
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I just did an engine swap and have an odd noise that I was curious on where to start. It sounds like a buzz test on an injector at 2,250 rpm and gets louder as rpms increase but starts out very faint and get louder. Makes noise converter unlocked and locked in gear under load and free rev no load.
-2002 F550
-Fuel pressure is 60+ psi all the time
-Regulated return fuel system
-New injectors all AD
-Stock tune
-38R turbo
-New flexplate
-injector hold down tight
-new degas res
-new water pump.....
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I just replaced all 8 injectors in my 01 F550 with remans from FFD. I have noticed a constant knock at idle but truck runs great. Blowby has no pressure behind it, truck does not smoke. Does this sound like a problem unrelated to an injector?
It did not make this noise before replacing the injectors
[URL] .....
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I was driving my bosses f550 with a 7.3, and while towing a loaded 40' flatbed of hay, it started bloing white smoke and lost all power and had almost no pedal feel. It wouldnt even go past 2500 RPM. Then, all of a sudden, it started billowing black, and BOOM backfired and shot flames out the exhaust. Then, I pulled over at a parts store and replaced the fuel filter, which worked for a while, but then it started blowing white smoke again. Once I limped it home and unhooked it, I took it out and let her rev a bit and it seemed to stop blowing smoke, but it still has less than the normal power it used to have. It has 226000 miles and is completely stock.
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Just joined today, I have a 2003 550 7.3. New HPOP, 3 new injectors, new seals on others, new fuel pressure regulator, new fuel pump, sending unit mod to eliminate filters. 733 HPOP pressure, 65 fuel pressure at idle. Truck runs out of fuel pressure after its warmed up and driven about 20 miles. Haven't checked voltage at pump while driving. I had taken it to a seasoned tech of 20 years and he had replaced HPOP and 2 injectors and it does start better but problem is still there.
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Having trouble with motor, driving home one day heard a noise under the hood. Then a lot of grey smoke started coming out of exhaust. Got the truck hauled home notice fuel was coming out at the number 7 cylinder at exhaust port. Thought it might be the injector just put rebuilt ones in, thought I might have received a bad one. I switch the number 7 injector with the number 3 injector. Did not make a difference still have fuel leaking out of exhaust manifold at the number 7 cylinder and a lot of grey smoke coming out of exhaust. Not sure where to start looking next? Could it be the injector cup is the problem?
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I have now replaced hpop, injectors, cups, gpr, batteries, uvch on both sides, icp and ipr on my 2002 F550 and it still has a long crank to start.
It has been driven about 1,000 miles since then and no change. I have no codes except buzz test produced a high to low 1272 1274 1276 1278 one time. Cannot get that to happen again.
It is taking 4 seconds of cranking to start consistently hot or cold. It always starts but cranks for what seems like too long compared to my other 7.3s. I have included a screenshot of the data and am curious on what everyone's thoughts are as I am out of things to look at!
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Ok I'm working on a 2000 7.3 on a F550 truck was running but had no power so we changed out all the injectors and glow plugs and rebuilt the turbo now there is no start it turns over and were getting black smoke from the tail pipe. What is going on with it?
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I have a pretty good leak coming from the front of the rear diff. is this a common problem on the 10.5 ? How hard are these to do without a lift? I still have warranty left but will have to swap out exhaust so its almost a toss up whether I do the seal myself. Also was considering a new posi unit because seems like the original is about toast, might be a good excuse to swap a new one in. 2009 with 95,000 on it. Bought it a year ago with 70,000 on it, the rear was dry till at least 90,000. I serviced the fluid at about 90,000 and didn't have a leak so now a couple thousand miles and its gushing???????
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I went to change the small filter that is mounted just behind the radiator and is inline with the 5r100 . with a socket on the bottom all i was able to do was flex the brackets going to the 3 mounting bolts as this thing is on there real good. Looking for examples on unthreading the bottom cup to access filter?
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Any success story on converting 2003 or 2004 f350 with leaf spring front end to the 2005-2007 f350 coil front end is it possible?
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Was thinking of running a USB to each of the back doors (through the flip out ashtray) in my crewcab. Was looking at using something like this.
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Sometimes doing your own work gets pretty irritating. I just got done with my drive hub and was rotating the tires when I noticed my rear brakes need replacing. Got it all apart, no real issues until the simplest part.
Take a look at this picture. The rotor (brand new) is touching the edge of the caliper and the brake pad is too large on the immobile side. These are Duralast Rear pads from Rockauto. The rotors are for the rear but some other brand, also from rock auto.
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What the exact part number is for the seal for the rear axle in a 2003 F150 4x4 ?? Mine decided to leak yesterday and so I looked up Ford for the part but there's two .. one is thick and one is not. I don't want to take the seal out first to look because I got no other vehicle to get it and putting it back in and out would be silly.
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2003 f550 with 7.3, suddenly loses power and struggles while driving. White/blue smoke comes from tailpipe, can smell the diesel exhaust bad when happens, comes and goes intermittently but has been happening more and more often. I uploaded a video onto YouTube to show sound, rough running motor and smoke from exhaust although smoke not that bad in video. Search "shadetreelandscaping" on YouTube in case link below doesn't work.
ShadeTreeLandscaping - YouTube
Took to ford dealer a few diff times for problem and they can't get any codes, can't duplicate problem. After it being in for third time they say had to call ford tech hotline and they suggest replacing injector however can not and will not gaurntee that will solve problem, and obviously dealer isn't cheap for repair. I find it hard to believe that a bad injector(s) would be an intermittent problem as it is or that it would cause fuel pump to make gurgling sound.
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2001 7.3L 307,000 miles.... I have a couple of injectors pretty close to failing the buzz test.
I'm a shade tree mechanic - I've done the oil cooler, changed the radiator and belts etc how easy is the injector change? The bit that bothers me is the oil draining into the rear cylinders and ensuring that I don't hydraulic lock something. Do I need any special tools? Should I just take her to Diesel Innovations in Houston and let them get on with it ....
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The rear differential on my truck has been whining for the 2 years I've owned. The fluid has been changed but of course that didn't really solve anything. I'm trying to decide if I want to rebuild it. Was looking at buying the USA Standard brand rebuild kit, ring and pinion, and axle bearings and seals. How hard would/will this be to do myself?
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