Can I swap my seat bottoms? I have '99 F350 with 40-20-40 seats. Drivers seat is getting tired. Would like to take just the seat bottom and flip-flop. Can it be done?
View 3 RepliesCan I swap my seat bottoms? I have '99F350 with 40-20-40 seats. Drivers seat is getting tired. Would like to take just the seat bottom and flip-flop. Can it be done?
View 14 RepliesI have a Stock 02 f350 7.3 with 66,000 miles ... I'm sure this has been covered plenty if times, but I notice more so on cold days (-20 to 30). My truck after starting and even letting it warm up for a period of time makes a hissing sound from the passenger side of the cab near the dash/glove box area, Like I said I've only really noticed it on cold days ... It usually occurs between 1200 and 1800 rpm and it's a very touchy noise, for example I only really hear it when I'm cruising at a consistent speed, if I get on the gas a little it goes away till I bring it back to consistent throttle cruising then it comes back, same goes for when I let off the gas it goes away until I give it a steady consistent throttle again ....
View 7 RepliesI've got a 1271 code and I can't seem to make it go away. Code definition is "High side to Low side open Cyl 1". The truck runs fine, no rough idle, no excessive smoke of any color, just the damn CEL light stays on. I check the UVCH and all the injectors ohm in at 2.7 ohms. I've already done the updated clips under the covers. I run all the buzz tests and KOEO/ KOER tests and all appears OK. My AE won't do a Cyl contribution test. All the injector data shows all 0.00. I know its not that perfect. "high to low open", does that mean I've lost a ground? If so where?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 F350 XLT with cloth seats. In 2003 I upgraded those seats to power seats.
- When I upgraded to power seats I did not run a new power wire. Since my 2001 was at least fused for power and heated seats I located the Power seat 30amp power wire.
- That wire is located on engine compartment fuse #15 (Circuit 5298 as I recall) and Dark Green. It comes through the firewall and runs down the drivers side kick panel along the floor and then intersects with the power and ground seat belt wires that ran under the seat.
- The ground wire was coiled and attached to a ground stud behind the drivers side kick panel.
About a month ago I had a mouse get in and chew my seat wiring to shreds. I built my own harness and am good to go there, however since I had these seats all apart I decided to replace the foam and add HEAT.
So that brings me to the specific question. In the engine compartment fuse box, there is a 30amp positive wire for Heated seats. My schematic says it is a 14 gauge wire RD/BK on circuit 1153.
Where in the heck is this wire? I have literally tore the dash apart looking for this wire.
- I have verified the following with my fluke continuity tester.
- It is not part of the four customer access wires that drop on the right side of the interior fuse panel.
- It is not part of the tow wire bundle.
- I have checked the bundle that the Dark Green Power seat wire is in and there are no RD/BK wires in that bundle. I also poked the other 2 14 gauge (Yellow/Blue) wires in that bundle and verified they are not them.
-I have checked the three wire bundles behind the passenger side glove box and was unable to locate.
- I have verified it is not stored behind the compartment below the cigarette lighter.
I am looking for info which wire I am talking about and knows where Ford stored them when not used by having the XLT Trim with cloth seats. Yes I am aware that I can run an additional wire with a 30 amp fuse to the batter, but I would prefer to use the system and fuse that was designed for this.
I purchased a 2011 350 crew cab lariat 6.7 diesel last week. That night i noticed that the passenger side map light was considerably dimmer than the drive side. Had to go back to the dealership 2 days later anyways to get a second key made. Showed the tech the light and he gave me 2 new bulbs to replace both lights with. Both were great for about a week but i noticed the passenger side has once again become dim....
View 1 RepliesI have a jump seat in my 08 f350 and am looking for a center console. My interior is black and tan and the jump seat is all black.
View 3 RepliesAny success story on converting 2003 or 2004 f350 with leaf spring front end to the 2005-2007 f350 coil front end is it possible?
View 8 RepliesI recently bought a 1999 F250 Super Duty 4x4 7.3 Powerstroke MT with 280,000 miles. The reverse is out and after reading several posts am I to understand that any ZF6 well interchange in it or is it year specific. Guess what my question should read "What year vehicles well the transmission interchange and that there isn't any difference between trucks that run this motor with MT except for the powertrain, like F250 F250 super duty F350 and so on. The second question is how hard would it be to fix the reverse myself. I do have some mechanical experience. Except for the reverse, the trucks run perfectly.
This is my first diesel truck . I'm also confused because it has an adjustable gauge mounted on the bottom of the dash that you can select the performance from. I was told it has a performance chip and that's what that was for. I was told by the man I bought it from that the truck had been bullet proof but I don't know a thing about diesel upgrades or what to look for if it has. Except for reverse, everything works. Low high 2x4 & 4x4. Got it because he had to pay the bail bonds man. Guess I got a deal on it I was told.
I can just barely get my truck into my garage. I have about 1/2" each side of the mirrors and yes, they are pushed in, not extended. I looked at sports mirrors from Dorman but not sure of the quality.
View 12 RepliesIs there a different battery box or better battery holder for the driver side without all the air filter housing stuff. I had an AFE Big boost filter and when I modified the stock battery box it still had the bottom section of the air filter compartment well after about 4-5 years I was cleaning the filter today and there was a hole rubbed in the filter from moving around and the pre filter is getting holes wore through it. So I cut the air box part off so now the filter will sit on the fiberglass stuff on the fender well. I ordered a couple of the new Blue Donaldsons from RiffRaff to replace the Big Boost filter. The modified filter box looks kinda like a hack job because all I had was a cut off wheel and the plastic got hot and now I have melted buggers all over it. I thought I saw somethin a long time ago about a battery holder out of a van that was just the bottom plate but can't find it anywhere now.
View 8 RepliesI moved my truck before I noticed exactly where it was coming from then after ward looked in the engine compartment. I had a puddle under the passenger side looks like the hoses going into the passenger glove box area (because I saw a few drops on them). The liquid is silvery. Any guess what fluid this is or where it might be leaking.
The antifreeze doesn't seem to be getting lower. I drove it yesterday for about 30 minutes and no crazy leaks.
Initially had indications of a leak under the wheel arch on the drivers side.
About 3-4 months back replaced both PS lines and the leak stopped - briefly (maybe a couple a weeks).
Now the leak is back, but what's interesting is I lose more ATF fluid on a single long haul run than I do running round town for 3 weeks. I can't work out where the leak is coming from to identify what else to replace - short of just buying a pump and reservoir and replacing them as I've already done the hoses.
My turbo cooler pipe was hard up against the old PS pipe where it entered the side of the reservoir until I did the replacement hoses. Now I have it out the way but I'm wondering if it's caused some unseen wear or damage.
If I just do the pump to see if that works are the reman units any good out of Autozone or O'reilly's?
I picked up an '01 F-350 standard cab and bed plow truck for parts and am preparing to swap the rear axle into my E99 F-250 SB unless someone gives me good reason to just swap the carrier. I want the LS differential. I will also do hutch/harpoon on the tank so I figure that bed removal will make both jobs easier. Once I have both beds off I can give things a visual and see what lines and cables need to be changed out as well. I believe that there is a difference in the passenger's side caliper but I am not 100% on that and I don't know what I will need to change if anything. I am hoping that my drive shaft will remain.
Thus far I have gotten to rotted bed off of the donor truck. The bolts would not come out and I had misplaced my cutoff wheel so out came the torch. In the process of blowing the heads off of the bolts I also blew some holes in the bed but didn't care, it's scrap. Fortunately I did not blow any molten steel onto the fuel tank. I was able to lift the bed far enough to reach the light plugs in the rear and disconnect them without damaging them. The large one that is still attached to the frame goes to the trailer lights and could have stayed connected. The two smaller ones with ends up feed the tail lights and license plate lights, they have to be disconnected.
The bed is shot so I just hooked chains into the rear pockets and drug it off with the front end loader. I did have to get off a couple of times and unsnag it from the frame. Oops, and to cut off the fuel tank fill and vent hoses.
The bolts are extremely rusty and wouldn't budge so I cut them off.
The organ recipient has a spray on bed liner that I had to cut through to get to the bed bolts, the heads look like new and the bolts look like they will all come out for me.
And this is what the nuts and clips look like that mount the bed to the frame.
Yep, there is plenty of rust.
Also, I found two safety cables wrapped around the bed frame and main frame mid bed that will need to be disconnected before bed removal. These are on the E99 SB only, not on the '01 standard bed.
I have always been afraid this day would come - that the engine would outlast the door and window systems.
I have never previously in life wanted a vehicle with electric assisted windows and doors for this reason - remember when those were expensive foo-foo options on a vehicle?
Anyway the back passenger door window has not worked for a couple years now. Not too big a deal.
A month ago the back passenger door could no longer be opened from either side. Not too good and I couldn't see much of a way to ever fix it.
This morning the back driver side door won't open from either side. The lock only half-heartedly wants to unlock via the powered system though it can be fully pulled up manually (not as possible on the passenger side rear).
Next up will be the front doors...
Small oil leak looks like coming down by drivers side up pipe. I don't think it's the turbo o rings. Better not be. But could be I guess. Anyways. It runs down somewhere by the up pipe down onto transmission. I'm not loosing tremendous oil or anything.
View 14 RepliesMy passenger side wheel bearing is going out. I had a local company replace it under extended warranty 7 years and 90k miles back. I think I have gotten pretty good life out of it. I think it was from Napa but not positive. I try to grease then once a year but I'm not always successful.
View 14 RepliesI have a '02 7.3 that has developed a severe oil leak in what seems to be a small line that runs from the drivers side head to the HPOP on the passengers side.
it seems to be leaking at the braket that secures it to the head on the drivers side.
what is this line called and where can i find one A.S.A.P?
2003 7.3 175,000 miles...
Saw a stain in my driveway where you normally see AC drip. Opened hood and saw degas empty.
Looking around like crazy and find wet area. Where the coolant line turns down beside the passenger fender.
Looks wet near bend going toward running board. Didn't get to inspect much but I pulled back a bit of loom to inspect shape of lines and they look great.
What could be going on?
Cleaned the truck today & noticed that the carpet in the passenger side footwell was wet, not real bad but wet at the edge by the trim, when I peeled up the trim the channel was full of clean water so I know it's not the heater.
I'm guessing that it may be a blocked drain but won't have time to check for another week, we did have some pretty bad rain last week so maybe it was just too severe for the drain to cope?
I should have taken the pic before I dried it up but the channel between the carpet & the door rubber was pretty much full
There is a mark where the water has run down the floor. Just to the left of the red antenna cable, I pulled out the glove box but couldn't see anywhere obvious that it has got in.
'99 F250 SuperDuty. Tumbler is recessed and the key slot is horizontal rather than vertical. I suspect the spring fingered clip has fallen off.
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