Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: F350 Stalling When Accelerator Pedal Is Pressed And Released
Jun 6, 2017
I have an issue with my 1999 Ford F350 7.3L diesel and stalling when the accelerator pedal is pressed and released.
Background: Initially the truck would not start, and from there here are all the things that I found wrong and replaced. (keep in mind that I troubleshot all the issues and every part that was replaced was proven faulty)... Starting with the glow plugs, all but 3 were faulty and not making a connection to ground. (only one broke off in the head, but I was able to get it out with out getting anything in the cyl)..
Valve cover gasket and harnesses, this is to include replacing the connectors on the engine harness cause both sides of the connectors were broken. The ICP was leaking into the connector and breaking the connection to the PCM, so the connector was cleaned and the sensor replaced. No issues from that now.
The IPR was replaced cause the oil pressure was erratic and not stable when I had my pressure gauge hooked up testing the pressure. After that was replaced the pressure was ok, and it climbed with RPM's and fell back down like it was suppose to. I could not get the PSI up to 3000 PSI even at full RPM's, but it did not drop past 600 psi.
The fuel tank was recently replaced, and all the fuel was removed and "fresh/good" fuel was put in. The fuel bowl was cleaned out and the filter replaced. (the fuel bowl did have a lot of crap in it like rust and dirt). Fuel pressure was at 95 PSI last time I checked, which is higher than the recommended 60 to 65 PSI.
That being said the engine did start and run, but was very rough and missing. So I did all the injector o-rings. Some o-rings were starting to split, and others were not sealing like the copper washer on the injector tip. I could tell by the amount of crap in the end of the injector. ( not the tip, but where the injector contacts the injector cup. There must have been water in there or something cause that part had all kinds of crap around it)
The engine smoothed out after a couple day of running it, but it would still stall when it was cold. The block heater was replaced cause it was falling out. The oil was changed and the filter too. The CMP sensor was changed just because I know they will cause the engine not to start. I had a "known good" truck that I can swap part to and from, and I did a lot of that thus far.
Swapped the IDM, PCM, EBP sensor, MAP sensor, all relays inside the engine and in the cab. I was looking for the barometric pressure sensor, but from what I have read thus far that is a calculation in the PCM between the MAP and the EBP sensors. The diode to the PCM is good,I checked the harness for rubbing by the 42 pin connector and by the LF fender but I did not find any chaffing or rubbing on any wires. The ECPR was wired together, so I fixed it so that it is no longer that way, and the waste gate for the turbo was wired open. I took the wire off and made sure the linkage worked and it did move. I tried to lube up the valve in the turbo for back pressure, but I'm not sure if it worked or not.
I also swapped out the oil pressure sensor and the oil pressure temp sensor on the HPOP Reservoir, and blew out the EBP sensors tube. (air went straight through the tube with no restrictions.) I did a buzz test and all the coils checked out ok. I also did a contribution test and only three cylinders were identified as having some kind of issue. (but this is not enough to cause the engine to stall..) The only current codes that I have are the air intake heater, and the EF feedback not detected. Neither of which would cause the engine to stall in my opinion.
Symptoms:
When cold: The engine will start and idle just fine, but when the accelerator is pressed and held to 1000 RPM's the engine will sputter like its missing and surge up and down between 500 and 1100 RPM's. If the accelerator pedal is pressed quickly the engine speed to increase then fall down and stall. It seems as if the PCM is shutting down and starting back up. ( Like the key is turned off and then back on quickly, but the engine doesn't recover)
When warming: This issue becomes more erratic, but when hot the engine is fine. No issues, and it will drive all day long with no hesitation.
The truck has over 200K on it, but I know it will go more! It is a mannuel tranny, and is a 4X4, and I love it, I can't get ride of it just yet.
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Installed Tekonsha P3 on my 2000 F350 I used the recommend pig tail easy hookup when I press brake pedal no voltage at plug but when I move the manual lever I get voltage. I believe the stop light switch activates it. The fuses all check out. I did have a Banks engine brake installed by their people I don't know if makes a difference
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If I could determine the resistance of the accelerator pedal at around 1000 rpms, couldn't I rig up that resistance and switch it on in the accelerator pedal circuit to make the truck go to high idle? Any flaws in my thinking?
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I own a 2000 F250 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4. The only aftermarket engine modification I have is a Tymar intake. The problem I'm having started about 6 months ago in a very erratic fashion. I would pull up to a traffic signal and as the light changed to green, without warning the truck would have no throttle response. The engine was running fine; there was just no response as I stepped on the accelerator pedal. Usually when I put the transmission in neutral, revved the engine a few times, the throttle would come back on line. This happened 4 or 5 times over the summer and then went away completely until today. Today it came back with a vengeance. At one point I had to shut the engine down completely to restore throttle response. It's a bit unnerving when it happens in the middle of a busy intersection. I was told that it may be the throttle position sensor. Does this sound correct and does it need to be replaced?
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I have a 2006 F350 Crew Cab with the 6.0. It is used primarily for towing a fairly heavy 5th wheel RV. I find that the accelerator pedal pressure is much higher than any previous vehicle I have ever owned. The problem is magnified by the fact that I have a previous ankle injury that makes it very uncomfortable to have to press on the accelerator so hard for long periods of time.
I try to use the cruise, which sometimes works on flat ground, but the shift point at my desired cruising speed is such that the slightest grade will make it downshift. With the cruise off and my foot kept at a constant pressure, the truck pulls up the slight grades just fine with no significant loss of speed and no downshifting.
Is there any way to lighten the pressure it take to push down the accelerator? I know it is actually moving a throttle position sensor, but is there also a pedal return spring here that is too stiff for me?
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2001 f350. 7.3 has 350k on the engine. Last week it cut out and stalled it was about 15 degrees and though.. fuel had jeld... it warmed up.. didn't happen again. Then two night ago.. happened 4 times in a row then it was fine. yesterday a dozen times at least. It stalls but restarts itself (roll starting i guess) the water in fuel ,CEL and wait to start lights come on and then go off. We started with fuel filter, have changed the cam position sensor (yes with ford part not part stores) and now have also changed the Injection pressure sensor (also with ford part) while it needed changed as it was leaking oil the truck is Still stalling.
My dad is a technician He hooked his computer to the truck.. nothing. He was able to get the truck to recreate the problem with the scanner hooked up. When it stalls if he holds the throttle down the truck stays at an idle and the CEL, wait to start and water in fuel lights are on. It decelerates and puts along as nice as you please with the fuel peddle to the floor! let off the accelerator, lights go off and it recognizes the throttle again. No codes at all. hes thinking its the pcm telling the icp to shut off fuel. What would cause it to do that?
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Truck starts great. Press peddle and it misses or lunges the rpm guage goes crazy . Has a little bit of white is blue is smoke. The ficm has 48v at all times.
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We have a new 2015 Prius with 6k on it and we are noticing one solid brief single click when the brake pedal is pressed and/or released. It doesn't happen every time (just some of the time) but it is only noticeable at slow speeds.
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Ive got a 2011 Sonata GLS with 111k miles. I purchased the car new. For the past several months the brakes make a crunch or creaking sound when the pedal is being pressed OR released. The funny thing is it only happens when driving forward. When I apply the brakes while reversing, the brakes are silent. I did a pad slap at 68k and have taken everything apart, cleaned and re-lubed to no avail. The sound can be heard at the front wheels when someone else works the pedal while the car is parked. Pads have about 50% thickness. Pads? Calipers, master cylinder?
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Ok, did an intake manifold cleaning on my 99 Accord the other day, and now I have problems...
Long story short, some time ago my car started to have a very rough idle. Took me awhile to find the problem. Turned out the air hose, between the filter and throttle body, had developed a big hole on the underside. So I replaced it and while I was at it used some throttle body cleaner, spraying into the intake manifold chamber. Lot of junk blew out the tailpipe. The car ran much better, but the idle could still be a little rough. I ran it that way for awhile, and finally the other day decided there was probably still some junk in there and it was time to really clean it out. So I took ff the throttle body and intake manifold housing. There was a lot of junk in there! The small intake on the passenger side was completely clogged shut. (I understand this isn't surprising on these cars.) I used a bunch of rags and 2 cans of Valvoline throttle body cleaner and a lot of elbow grease and cleaned it out. I was thinking to myself that whatever I didn't get with the rags flushed through OK, but I didn't want to take the whole intake manifold out.
So I put it all back together. (I took a video before I started, so I'm pretty sure it's all back together right.) But now I have problems. The car starts. It idles fine mostly, but can be a bit rough. But the trouble starts when I put the pedal down. If I do it in Park, well, if I push it quick the engine just dies. If I push it slow, the engine revs then quits, revs and quits, over and over. Similar if it's in gear. If I push it hard, the engine stalls. If I push it gentle, it revs up, but chugs along a bit.
I've run some seafoam through it, thinking it was clogged up with all that junk, and sure enough, lots of smoke comes out, but nothing is improving so far. What have I done wrong?
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Recently my F350 has failed to downshift when the accelerator pedal is pressed to the floor to speed up in traffic. It will usually happen when traveling at speeds in the 30's-40's. It will shift quickly at slower speeds. I have a scan guage on it all the time and it is not throwing any codes.
The transmission has only been serviced by the dealer; last done about 24000 miles ago. No leaks or low fluids/no burned smells. Stock setup with no heavy towing use. Currently at 228000+ miles, this is the first issue with the transmission assuming I am looking at the right area for the cause.
2005 F350 XLT 4WD
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If I'm at part throttle and i press the clutch pedal in about 2-3 inches, leaving the clutch still fully engaged, i can feel a really rough vibration in the clutch pedal. it stops vibrating as soon as i let off the gas. and i'm only giving it a little bit of gas, mind you.
If I'm at idle, and i have the clutch depressed all the way and rev the engine, I can feel vibration in the clutch pedal. My 6-speed MK4 did not do this, not in the slightest. Is this normal for MK6 or do I have a problem?
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Its a 2005 model with 45000 miles on the clock, so low mileage for the year. The problem with it is the engine starts up ready fr a journey, and as soon as the accelerator pedal is pressed, the engine cuts out.
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What would cause me to lose accelerator pedal function after hitting a bump? The engine remains on, the CEL comes on and after a few seconds or shifting into neutral and back into drive I regain the accelerator again and the CEL goes out
The truck shows no codes. It is if some connection makes/breaks intermittently when I hit a rough pavement. Also, she sometimes won't shift in reverse. Could it be related?
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I have a buddy with a 1999 F250 W/7.3 TD. His property is accessed through a couple miles of hard terrain, so this may wind up being a loose ground or something that pulled loose.Anyway, the truck just all the sudden won't accelerate. It'll crank & idle all day long, but when you hit the gas.....nothing happens. I realize the diesel doesn't have an accelerator cable, as it is drive by wire. First thought was the APP sensor(accelerator), but most of the dash indicator, O/D, etc. lights are inop too.
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02 Montana with 4T65E electronic 4 speed transmission. car has 75000 miles. normal driving and shifting seems to be fine. Transaxle will not downshift with accelerator pedal pressed to the floor. no check or service engine lights.
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2001 f250 7.3L, 289,000 miles, changed the IPR and ICP, noticed the EBP tube was in two pieces. Would this cause the rough idle and shaking? IT started running rough and would die after a mile or two. Would have to wait 30 minutes before it would start again. That is when a buddy told me to change the IPR and ICP the ICP plug was covered in oil as well as the top of the ICP. So I changed the wiring plug as well. I originally cleaned and changed O-rings on IPR but then it wouldn't start, bought a new IPR and started but runs rough. I just started it with EBP tube removed and sensor unplugged. Idling rough when I press accelerator and RPM go above 2K it levels off pouring black smoke everywhere.
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So the truck has been stalling out and dropping power randomly, symptoms pointed to needing the 50 cent mod, changed the cps for cheap insurance and peace of mind just in case it wasn't the uvch, no dice. So last night I yanked valve covers for the first time here's what I did while I was under there, check my work.
1st I ohmed out injectors thru the 42pin harness according to tuglys sig link. My meter would only go down to a 0.4 when testing the test leads just to each other
DS injector ohms
#2 3.5
#4 3.4
#6 3.6
#8 3.6
PS injector ohms
#1 3.6
#3 3.6
#5 3.5
#7 3.6
DS glow plug ohms
#2 prong to ground 2" away 0.9 ; white connecting wire back to gp relay 0.3
#4 0.9 wire to relay 0.5
#6 infinity ohms up thru highest meter setting, checked multiple times and different ground spots,(replacing tonight) wire to relay 0.5
#8 0.5 wire to relay 0.5
PS glow plug ohms
#1 1.0 ; white wire back to relay 0.6
#3 infinity multiple tests as well (replacing tonight) wire to relay 0.5
#5 0.9 wire to relay 0.6
#7 1.0 wire to relay 0.7
Next up, ebp sensor was reading 1.9 higher than map/baro koeo, gently cleaning sensor earlier didn't work. Installed new motorcraft, will check it with Torque pro koeo once the batteries are reconnected
Next I checked the uvch connections which felt good, darn it, maybe a smidge of movement from the DS, but nothing halfway disconnected or anything. Hmm. I ground down the quarters to the top of his head and installed.
Next I torqued down the 4 bolts per cylinder of the rocker arms at 20 ft/lbs, all were perfect and snug
Next up, injector torque. I've read on here below 50, or 80 in/lbs depending on different threads and opinions that I would need to replace o-rings.
So I set the in/lb click torque wrench at 50 in/# and tested the wrench's click on the higher torqued rocker bolts, then checked all the injectors, all were good
Reset for 80in/lbs, tested, then hit all injectors, #6 almost budged but clicked immediately before the handle moved
Reset for 100 in/lb, tested on larger bolt, 2 injectors took a 1/8 turn;
Reset for official spec of 120 in/lb , tested wrench, all injectors took 1/3 to 1 full turn
Reset for 130 in/lb (above official spec, but highly recommended on here by those way more knowledgeable than me on our engines) tested on a larger bolt, slowly and carefully gave all injectors almost an extra 1/2 turn to click; whew, finally a relaxed sphincter.
At this point I knew I needed to buy 2 glow plugs today, replace, then I'll check all glow plug torque at 14 ft/lb in one go, so I got everything ready for a hot torque after I do glow plugs tonight ("unloaded" the torque wrenches) and finally installed the RiffRaff AIH delete plug. My cell phone's alarm went off to get the kids ready for school, so hit the snooze and got everything put up. Now for a nap, then buy 2 Motorcraft GP and check back on here before going back at it tonight.
I also checked the turbo for play in all directions, was nicely solid and spun smooth, no wheel damage. Up pipes and well basically everything exhaust under hood had zero signs of soot/leaks with inspection mirror.
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i have a 04 ford excursion 6.0 with the egr delete, was stopped at a light to make a left turn, when i stepped on the accelerator pedal nothing happened as the engine was just idling. i pumped the pedal around 10 times and finally got the engine to rev up. i just got this excursion and don't know to much about the maintenance on it. i am going to drain the water and change the two fuel filters. my neighbor is familiar with diesel engines and he said to look at the throttle sensor. i have run this engine up to 900 miles and it has started and run perfectly. i believe the usual maintenance like oil changes etc were done on it. would any error codes show up even though no warning lights on the dash.
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My "01 6 speed has started stalling after spooling down. Example, coming down a grade in a lower gear and then push the clutch in it will die. Where do I need to look? I've recently done injector o rings and normal service. No change at all. No other issues except a very touchy throttle. It's pretty disturbing to be pulling a heavy load, have to get in the brakes hard, push the clutch in and the engine dies. Not a good day.
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I have a 2001 Ford Excursion Limited 7.3l with 199,980 miles on it.
It has a TS-6. My first problem is that when I come to a stop or slow down to a crawl then press the accelerator the engine stalls and dies. I have looked and looked at threads and can not find this example anywhere. There is no pressing the pedal and it remains at idle. It dies, shuts off, quiets. I have thought icp, tps, ivs
Second problem is that a/c is blowing hot. Other than being out of Freon, what could be other things to check. It does sometime go to default, but has done so in awhile. It does not blow cold in rear and hot in front. They both blow hot. I have replaced the pvh sensor.
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