I have a 1995 f-250 7.3 liter diesel engine. Truck starts fine and runs good for a while and then it will stall. I pull over and after a couple of attempts it will start and run fine for a while. I have changed the fuel filter and put fresh fuel in but it still stalls.
View 7 RepliesA bit about my truck : 2001 F250 CC SB 4x4 175k miles
Wicked wheel, 6637 filter, DP tuner, Summit 5" exhaust, pressure regulator somewhere in the boost circuit to fool the computer a bit....
Every few times I drive the truck it will stumble and maybe even stall. The issue feels something like a CPS problem, although I've swapped out a few CPS to see if I by chance had a bad one in the engine as well as a bad one in the glove box. No changes. I was driving home from work one afternoon and it was running particularly bad. I stopped off at a local garage (who doesn't work on diesels and was reluctant to plug in....but did because he's a nice guy).
He plugged in with his snap-on tool and came up with P0603 and P1211. The P0603 seems to be nearly inevitable with a tuner. Check P1211 sounds like it could be an issue with a number of things, but I tried to attack the free and cheap issues first. I dropped my tank and had a look inside. I was hoping to find a squirrel wrapped around the sending unit, but there was a disappointingly small amount of crud. I cleaned it up and put it back in, then changed my fuel filter. No improvements.
So I decided to get with the program and buy AutoEnginuity. Got it. Even did some reading in class and did the initial homework assignment on page 2 or 3. Seems like the best thing to do it hook up, set up some parameters to monitor, and drive around recording until the problem happens. But.........what parameters do I want to monitor? I don't want to overtax the OBDII bus with too many requests such that my data looks like crap.
A few other things............ In the last year I swapped out the valve-cover gaskets & harnesses with an all-in-one molded setup. About a month back I replaced the exhaust back pressure sensor and tube.
Truck is a e99 f250sd 4x4 7.3 manual trans. The truck started and ran fine to work this morning. Went to leave this afternoon. Hopped in, put key in and tried to start it. Engine just turned over, never started. Thought that it didn't start because I didn't let the plow plugs warm up enough. Turned ignition off, turned back on and let wait to start light to go out. Same thing happened again. Just turned over but wouldn't start. As far as I can tell the fuel pump is running. Felt it vibrating while the ignition was on. What to check.
View 14 RepliesMy f250 is having a stalling issue. It will run fine for about 5-10 minutes and then die out, already replaced CPS, fuel filter, and fuel pump. What else could be the problem?
View 4 RepliesOwning a 2001 F250 Extended cab with a 7.3 I have not had a lot of questions to ask fortunately.
My truck has spent a lot more time sitting than running lately and when I went to start it the other day it cranked fine but would not fire. Quick read on this forum and the first thing I found was how if the fuel solenoid had less than 10.8 volts when cranking it would not start.
I went down and checked the battery voltage and it was at 12.1 volts no load. I put the battery charger on for about 10 hours (time to kill) and when I pulled the charger and cranked it over, started with no problem.
My dad has a 99 F250 with a no start issue. Everything was starting and running fine one day. The next he gets a no start. Cranks fast and fine but wont fire up and start. He has a scangaugeII hooked up to it and his oil pressures and volts look fine. His tach moves when he is trying to start it. He checked the icp sensor and it had oil through it so he replaced it with a Ford part. Unplugged it and the scangauge pressure goes up but no start. He also replaced the ipr with a new Ford one just in case. He checked and is getting low pressure and high pressure oil.
I am having him check the fuel heater fuse #22 to make sure it is not blown. He had the block heater plugged in all night along with a battery charger to make sure they are topped off as well. We have gone through a couple of the checklists on this site for a no start condition but nothing has solved it yet. I think he is sitting at about 200k on the motor. No major issues or problems until now. He is currently also pulling the ICM to check it out as well. No codes are being thrown.
'99 F-250 7.3 PS 2WD Automatic 246,000 miles
Jumped in my truck a bit ago and it wouldn't start, although it is turning over. The "Wait to Start" light is not coming on and the Overdrive button on the shifter is lit up OFF and won't change with me pressing the button. I've checked all the fuses under hood and inside cab with multimeter and everything checks out ok.
Also, when it was raining last week I found that when I turned on my windshield wipers the truck would die. My solution to get home was to just flip it back & forth real quick every so often so I could see out the windshield.
My dad has a 99 F250 with a no start issue. Everything was starting and running fine one day. The next he gets a no start. Cranks fast and fine but wont fire up and start. He has a scangaugeII hooked up to it and his oil pressures and volts look fine. His tach moves when he is trying to start it. He checked the icp sensor and it had oil through it so he replaced it with a Ford part. Unplugged it and the scangauge pressure goes up but no start. He also replaced the ipr with a new Ford one just in case. He checked and is getting low pressure and high pressure oil. I am having him check the fuel heater fuse #22 to make sure it is not blown. He had the block heater plugged in all night along with a battery charger to make sure they are topped off as well. We have gone through a couple of the checklists on this site for a no start condition but nothing has solved it yet. If you need any info off the scangauge let me know and I will post the exact readings. I think he is sitting at about 200k on the motor. No major issues or problems until now. He is currently also pulling the ICM to check it out as well. No codes are being thrown.
View 6 RepliesI have a new to me 1999 F250 with the 7.3 engine. The previous owner installed a push button start to get around the ignition actuator being broke. Over the weekend I pulled the column and replaced the actuator but the truck will still not start with the key; with the push button it starts just fine. I'm not getting any power on the starter relay signal wire, so I suspect something in between the key and starter relay. I searched around a bit, but could not find a wiring diagram for a 1999 diesel super duty.
View 3 Replies2002 F250 7.3L suddenly idling and running very rough, and doesn't have any power. Truck has been running perfect, it's my daily driver, and just put a couple hundred miles on it yesterday with no problems. I had been having some transmission issues when I tow heavy so I bought a new transmission yesterday. This morning I pulled the truck into my garage to change the transmission. Again truck ran fine, no signs of any issues before the trans swap. I changed out the transmission, which included unhooking the trans wiring harness from all the various sensors, and unbolting the starter.
I didn't mess with anything in the engine bay except for unhooking the batteries. I had also repaired the overdrive button wires, as they had been pinched in the steering column and the button wasn't working. When I got everything hooked back up I cranked it up to get the trans fluid flowing through the transmission, it started right up and idled good. I had it running for a few minutes and it was beginning to make a little more noise than usual. When I started to back out of the garage it was getting pretty rough, almost like it was running out of diesel. I put it in neutral and gave it some throttle and noticed I was getting white smoke out of the exhaust and could smell diesel pretty strong.
I checked my injector resistance at the valve covers and got around 4 ohms +/- on all of the injectors. I rechecked all of the clips and harness that I had messed with. I took a look at the ICP sensor and it has oil in the connector which I know can cause a rough running condition in some cases. It looks like it has had oil on it for a while. I unhooked the batteries again for about 20 minutes to try and reset anything that may have messed up. I checked a bunch of connections under the hood to see if anything was unhooked or loose.
I also cleaned up the connector on the ICP sensor. I started the truck back up and it idled perfect so I pulled it back out of the garage and headed down the driveway. It almost immediately started running rough again and barely had the power to go up a small hill. I pulled back in and tried unplugging the ICP while it was running, which made a slight difference in the idle but still very rough. I plugged it back in and the idle progressively got worse until it was chugging really bad. I shut it off after that and haven't messed with it again.
What might have happened? Could it be a bad sensor or transmission position sensor in the new trans? Is it just coincidence that this happened with a transmission swap? I am going to get a new ICP, but if there is anything else I can try/check before I can pick up the ICP on Monday let me know.
2001 F250 7.3l 294k miles
Ok so truck has always had difficulty starting cold since I got it about 12k miles ago. Replaced glow plugs, that made things slightly better but still no start unless temp gauge was in that first line above the C. Changed to Rotella, immediately after oil change starts better and at slightly colder temps.
Since getting the truck when you turn the ignition on you can hear a 'whistling' type noise which I believe is the fuel system pressurising. That used to last as long as the chimes did when you first turn the ignition on. More recently it lasts a lot longer.
Towed recently and had intermittent check engine light - believe this could be HPOP related, haven't checked codes yet as we're on vacation. No oil in the valley. But I do have a little oil carry over in the turbo intercooler pipes.
Truck slightly sluggish at setting off initially and then picks up reasonably well when not towing but my Dyno says I'm putting a bit more pedal to get the same performance from say two months ago
Pretty sure injectors haven't been changed since truck was new but can't be absolutely certain as there is no history. I was surmising this is probably both a HPOP and injector age issue but only from what I've found searching...
I have a 2001 F250 Crew Cab with Powerstroke. The dash lights are starting to go out one at a time. How do I get to and replace the bulbs?
View 14 RepliesTruck stalls out and cranks hard for 7-10 seconds before starting if I don't let it warm up adequately before I start driving. Transmission is hesitant to shift. Also, white smoke comes out exhaust if it's cold and I get in the throttle too much or if I hit 70+mph.
View 2 RepliesMy 2001 f250 7.3 was running then just shut off like I had turned the key off, While trying to start back up, the truck turns over fine but no fire. I also have no gauges, I tested both fuse boxes and the one under the hood I have power on all big fuses, including the PCM but some of the small ones I don't, No power to the PCM diode, either side, the fuse box inside the cab, I have half power, No power to the PCM fuse is their a fusible link somewhere?
I really can't see much down there. The truck did get into a accident in Oct, which created a problem with the ignition and not sure if that could be a problem? That problem is, when I turn the vehicle off, it would stay running for a few seconds. I ignored the problem cause it didn't hinder the vehicle any.
What's up power stroke fam. I have a 1999 F250 Super Duty 7.3 liter this is what happen, was leaving the job site the truck started just fine ran for about 3 city blocks stopped at a stop sign and it started to run ruff like it was out of fuel but had a half tank then poof it shut off. After towing the truck home and trying to start it I could hear a relay clicking very sporadic the service engine light came on then when off and the truck started and the exact same thing happened started running ruff and shut off. Where should I start other than taking it to the shop?
View 14 RepliesI have a 99 f-250 with about 250k miles. Truck is completely stock. It recently has developed a problem where when I start it in the mornings it surges at idle, 200 rpm or so. Sometimes it tries to die and did once but started back up. When driving it continues to rev itself up and is jerky. It runs rough and sounds like it could be missing on a cylinder. At other times it runs fine just like normal. Yesterday morning it started with these symptoms so I put in a new ford CPS. It ran great for about 100 miles that afternoon. This morning it started back with the same symptoms. The SES light stayed on longer than normal when I started it, but it went off. I don't have a scanner.
I thought it might be water in the fuel because this started the day after I filled it from my transfer tank. But the water in fuel light has never came on. I put a new fuel filter on it but it made no difference. Have pulled filter three times looking for water but never found a drop. Also pulled several buckets from the bottom of my transfer tank but found no water there either. Where to look next?
Battery light comes on when the truck is running at less than about 1200rpm, but I see zero movement on the needle. Weird thing is i charged the batteries and tested the alternator with my multimeter and it was reading 14.1-14.2 which is nominal. Run it for about 10 min then it reads 12.3-12.8
I'm thinking a bad cell in the battery or alternator is going out. Oh and all the connections are tight, wires look good. 2001 f250 4wd 7.3 intake exhaust basic tuner gauges. Could the constant heat be a factor?
Just happened today right after I bought diesel. thought it may be water in fuel but after researching wondering if it is injector, etc. It starts every time knocks real bad sometimes for a minute, but clears up to idle ok. During idle no smoke, slightest acceleration however produces white smoke harder I accelerate more it plumes and it smells like diesel in the air.
Cannot get past 15 or so mph till switching into 2nd gear then 25mph max. Had to drive 4 miles like this I can say it cleared up and drove 1/2 mile until I had to stop at a traffic light then going from idle to acceleration again ran bad rest of way home another 2 miles.
A few years ago I did have a rough idle and accel. similar and it ended up being the broke pick-up/sending unit in tank (but of course that was when you get to around 1/4 tank of fuel and didn't run bad above that much fuel in tank), plus there was almost or more than a gallon of water in tank. I have done the mod for the fuel pickup with hoses, filter canister, etc. but wondered at first today if I had gotten bad gas or water in the tank again. Not sure how that much water got in the tank to begin with but that was bout 5 or 6 years ago.
Truck has over 200k miles and Ive had it for 11 years. In the morning will check the ICP sensor by unplugging look at fuel filter bowl, etc. A question I have is: Is water heavier than diesel, would it run thru my line first? thinking diesel is heavier than gas because of oil content....
1999 F250 SD V10 I recently replaced the in-tank fuel pump and filter. I operated the truck briefly after and everything was normal. I parked it with about 1/4 tank of new fuel and put it on a battery tender. It was parked in a garage on level ground in temperate weather(Southern Calif.). Two months later I tried to start it and it acted like it did when the fuel pump was bad. Cranked fine but no hint of starting. Could it be the fuel lines have become full of air and need purging through Schrader valve ? I haven't begun to troubleshoot but what to check other than pushing the fuel relay reset button.
View 5 RepliesMy 2003 Ford F250 superduty diesel wouldn't start. It was a cool morning and I suspected a problem with the glow plugs. I checked the GPCM ( new in the last year) and it was fine, than I tested both right and left harnesses...they showed two out of range. After further inspection I noticed both my buss bars were completely rotted off with the wire and top of the glow plugs exposed.
Since I cranked the truck over so much, I removed the ground terminals from the recently replaced batteries and put a charger on overnight, I also plugged in the block heater since the glow plug system is suspect. I went out the next morning, re attached the batteries, and turned the key. The fuel pump and injectors cycled as usual, than I turned the key to start....nothing....no click...no sound.
I disconnected the starter trigger wire and touched it to the positive post.... a few sparks but no click or engagement. I jumped the solenoid...again a few sparks...but no engagement. I removed the starter (less than a year old, and not a lot of use) and had it bench tested, it tested fine. I re installed the starter, and cleaned all the terminals and connectors through the the system, still nothing.
I checked the cable from the battery to the large terminal...12 volts, I had my wife try to start the truck and checked where the trigger disconnects on the fender and at the solenoid....12 volts when the key is turned to the start position. I used a jumper cable to run power from the battery to the solenoid...nothing, I ran the jumper cable from the ground terminal on the battery to the starter case...nothing. I checked all the fusible links and found a broken wire from chaffing, I repaired it ( but I think it was what was causing my battery light to come on for the last few months) even though the alternator, batteries and everything going else checked good.....nothing. I checked the starter relay...it checked out good, as well as the ignition fuse.
I bought a 99F350 with a 7.3, it was not running when I bought it. Batteries good, new starter, turns over just fine, fuel pump works, but now I don't know what to look for.
Was testing ohms for my injectors and at the plug on top of the driver side valve cover, couldn't get a reading at all, tested the ohms at the pass. Side valve cover plug and got good ohm readings.