Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: F250 Shut Off And Does Not Want To Restart
Jul 20, 2017
Truck is an early 1999 F250 Super Duty ext cab long bed, ZF6 swap. 164k miles on the dash, has the newer injectors and hpop from what I was told. It does have a 6 position switch, I typically keep it at the daily 70 horse gain tune. I do not beat the truck often. I don't tow often either.
Truck always took a few seconds longer to start than other 7.3s I have seen. So two days in row, after 8 hours of sitting in the sun, my truck did not wanna start right. Took about 5 minutes of cranking both days to get it to start. Then today on my way to work in the morning I started truck let it idle, everything seemed fine, Started driving and the engine just didn't sound right, but I figured maybe it was still a little cold. Continued driving, and it stalled out ( zf6) , I tried pop starting it but that only got me another block or two, after 10 minutes of cranking I got it to start up made it a half mile it shut off, same thing started and got it home. It cranked longer than normal but started at home after it I turned it off.
At work now so I have yet to check anything. Replacing CPS after work No smoke out of tailpipe, It is getting fuel, I checked the filter. I am no master mechanic, I do basic maintenance like oil changes, brakes, filters and censors my self. Anything more intensive I have not done. If it is not the CPS what else could it be, and how would I go about checking?
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My 99 E350 with 7.3 power stroke quickly lost power while on the highway today, bogged down and died. I couldn't get it restarted so had to have it towed home. I tried getting it started at home but it just pumps out white smoke out the exhaust. I got it to fire and run for a minute on a mixture of starting fluid and wd40 but wont stay running. Some background info, I checked oil and it was low but still registered at very tip of dipstick so I topped off oil level and still no start unless I give it a mixture of starting fluid and wd40. Batteries are good and cranking fast. Truck has 355,000 miles but very little blow by and prior to this had plenty of power and didn't have to use the block heater to start it thru the winter even when the temps dropped down to 12 degrees in January.
One thing I did have an issue with this past year was an intermittent cutting out while driving where the engine would instantly shut off but as soon as I tapped accelerator pedal it would start running again like nothing happened, wouldn't even last two seconds and it was running again just like shutting off the key and turning it back on and when it would do that the "Wait to start" light would come on and gauges would drop like key was off but again it all went back normal as soon as I hit a bump or tapped the accelerator pedal and it never lasted more than a second or two and never had to pull over, just tap the pedal or hit a bump and engine would kick in and run fine so not sure if that's related to whats going on now or not.
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Another "no start" issue... The details:
- 2002 F250 7.3L
- Rosewood stage two single shot injectors (rebuilt 1 week ago).
- DP Tuner
- Brand new OEM IPR
- ICP about two months old (OEM)
- New UVH's installed about a month ago
The issue: After installing the injectors and driving about 30 miles the truck died and will not restart. Had to have it towed home. Thus far, I've unplugged the ICP, switched out the CPS with a known good, replaced the IPR, checked the hpop simply by removing the fill plug on the top of the reservoir and gave it a quick crank - oil definitely came pouring out, removed valve covers and plugs to verify oil in the high pressure rails. Oil dummy gauge climbs after about 5 seconds of cranking and seems to hold.
Hoping it's not an injector failure as I just had these reworked. EDIT: Forgot to mention, not seeing any white smoke while cranking. Fuel bowl, full of fuel and fuel pump was replaced this past spring. What to check next? Tried taking a snapshot from a video to show the readings. The ICP seems low, and when unplugged shoots up the 2500, but still no start.
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I have a 2000 f250 7.3 with about 230,000 miles on it. So I filled my truck up to go out of town got on my way drove about 50 miles and the next stop I made the truck shut off and would not start again. I figured CPS went out again! nope changed it still not start. So check the fuel pump seemed fine was getting diesel. Checked oil, was a little low so i topped it off nothing. So i left the truck over night and came back on sunday still nothing. I finally got it started with a shot of quick start i know its not good but i had to get this Truck home. I drove and made it almost home took my foot off the pedal and it stalled again so i pulled it home. Had a guy go over and scan it and it says the oil pressure is at 30 psi when cranking so he says the hpop is probably bad.
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I have a 99 F 250 7.3. It runs fine at idle even for a long time. When I drive around the block a couple of times it will start chugging and lose power and shut off. I have been mixing fryer oil with the diesel. I changed the fuel filter, oil change, crank sensor and fuel pump. I added 15 gallons of diesel and diesel treatment. Pulled fuel filter and bowel is full I'm not sure where to look next.
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Shortly after i bought the truck and started driving it home, it shut down on me while coming up a mountain on the interstate. I had probably drove it about 10-15 miles and about 20-30 minutes of running after being dead cold. The temp gauge was about in the middle and it would not start up again until about an hour and a half later, which I was able to drive it home another 20 miles away.
There are no codes, which a mechanic told me it is probably an intermittent problem then. He then told me it would either be the cps, ipr or fuel pump. I have changed the cps and since then have not been able to replicate the problem but I have also not been able to get the engine up to temp because of the recent weather being so cold. I want to test the truck and see if I can get it to stall again but what this could be or what I can do to test the truck?
The truck is a 2003 f250 7.3 4x4 automatic, short bed, crew cab, with 320k miles.
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Have no OD, when you press the OD button nothing happens and then the OD light flashes until she's shut down. On start up no flashing until OD button pressed. All other gears shift lovely. Haven't checked codes yet.
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My truck is an 02 F250 7.3 with 280,000+ miles on it, so I wouldn't be surprised if I might have a number of things going wrong. It runs pretty good, but is still far from 100%, at least up to my standards. So the problem has been going on for the last two or three weeks and got worse today, and there were a few things leading up to it as well. I'll start off with the first thing that happened that I think might be related. It was about 6 months ago, my buddy and I were putting my new headlights in.
It was parked in his garage and we backed it out a little bit to try and adjust them. It was sitting there idling for a minute or two and just shut off or almost stalled out. Tried to restart it and it wouldn't start, tried multiple times to no avail. It acted similar to when I had glow plug troubles when I first got the truck, it would just crank and crank, but never actually kick over and start, along with putting white smoke out the exhaust. Ended up waiting about a half hour and then the truck fired right up with no problems after that, so I didn't think much of it.
Then fast forward to last week to when something similar happened. Started it up after sitting for a few days, started right up, idled for a few seconds and then just shut off. Started it back up ran for a second and died again. Tried a third time with the same result. Fourth time fired right up again and stayed running, let it run for a few minutes and was fine. Also along with this, there was a bad squeaking coming from the front of the truck, like what a belt would sound like. I have recently replaced the belt because it was squeaking and actually got chewed up and almost shredded completely apart.
So not sure why it is squeaking again, but not sure if this could be related or not. Then took it back to my dorm room to get my stuff, and then made it the hour or so drive home from school, without issue. Even went to a few stores before I went home, and shut the truck off and started it back up multiple times, again with no issues. When I drove back earlier this week it was fine until I got there and put it in park. It idled for few seconds and then cut out for a second, but then idled back up and continued to run fine. It has done that a few times as well. So it will do it on a cold start or after already fully warmed up.
Then it got worse today. Again had trouble starting it cold, same as what I explained early. Except second time cranking it wouldn't start at all, then on the third crank it started up and stayed running. But on the drive home is when it got worse. About 5 or 10 minutes into my drive, was just cruising doing at about 45 or 50, and truck just shut off, died/stalled out. It cut out and shut off for a second or two and then started itself back up and continued on like nothing happened. It scared the crap out of me the first time it happened, I was waiting for something like that to happen, but still wasn't quite ready for it.
The truck acted just like it would before you start it, with the key on, dash lights worked and the radio still worked. It did this 4 more times in similar ways, would die and then start back up, at various speeds and at roughly 5 or so minute intervals. I decided to just keep going as long as the truck would start and stay running, hoping to make it home. It did it a fifth time and this time the truck completely shut off and wouldn't restart itself. It was hard to see, as I was watching a few different things at one time, but I think it tried to restart, I noticed the tach bounce between 200-400 RPMS and then die. So I had to pull over and then restart it, fired up and drove fine. That was about half way home, and I made it the rest of the way home without any more problems.
So obviously I'm wondering what would be causing the truck to do this? I've done some reading and have a couple ideas, but not really for sure on anything. I was thinking maybe the CPS, I think it can cause a no start issue. Could ICP or the ICP sensor have something to do with it? I was also thinking maybe something fuel related, such as fuel pressure or a bad fuel pump. Any of those sound to be on the right track?
I have the torque pro app, but not exactly sure how to use it yet, and also just got access to my Uncle's Snap-on scanner, so I ran some tests and pulled some codes. How to more utilize these tools in diagnostics. I did get a few codes, but I'm not exactly sure how they might be related. The codes are pulled are:
P0470 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Circuit Fault. Just cleaned that out as well as the tube about a year ago, but I guess could be clogged again or has gone bad.
P1274 Cylinder 4 (E) High to Low Side Open. Did some reading and figured out that this could be UVCH related. At the same time, about a year ago, did new injector O-rings as well as all new Motorcraft UVCH's, so can't imagine that one is bad. Or that one could be loose, I would have guessed it would have happened more when I first did them, not a year later, but who knows.
Also pulled P1876 T-Case 2wd Solenoid Circuit Fault. Not sure if this is related at all, but also not sure what it means either. I read that it could be ESOF system related, which I do have, but I have manual lockout hubs, so maybe that's why it throws the code.
Also a few things that may or may not be related, but I think worth noting. Ever since I've had the truck the check engine light will pop on and off sometimes. It will do it on a cold start or, when I first start driving and its not fully warmed up yet. It does it most when the engine is still cold, and it almost never comes on once the truck is fully warmed up, but has came on and off more frequently lately. When driving, it will only stay on for a few seconds and more often when I'm lugging the engine or at lower rpms, and will commonly shut off if I let off the throttle.
I don't think it really comes on at higher rpms. I also have a slight oil leak in the valley of the engine, seems to maybe be coming from the front of the motor. Nothing too serious, leaves a small puddle where I park, loses enough to be at the add mark, a little before an oil change. Changed the oil about 1500 miles ago and have been able to notice a slight drop in oil level. Also I have changed the fuel filter in the last 500 miles.
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I have a 2004 f350 6.0 and it makes 550 horsepower and lately when I go to started in the morning it'll start at once everything gets up to temperature if I shut it off it will not start again without starting fluid into the air box if it's warm...
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Changed CPS,EBPV sensor and tube,replaced IPR&fuel pressure regulator,batteries 100%,HPOP full,oil level full,fuel in bowl and lift pump runs(have not tested pressure but has good flow).After replacing IPR truck started quickly and idled for 15 minutes,decided to try a test drive ,truck stalled after reversing 10 ft as I shifted into first gear.Now no start!!Losing my mind.
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Ok, so my 2002 f250 died on me last Tuesday out of the blue, pulled it home and found fuse 23 I think ECU power was blown. I removed my Hydra, and put a new fuse in it and all seemed well, then Friday evening on my way to dinner was driving along and truck shuts off like someone turned the key off. I replace the Crank sensor, even though I had put a new one in after the first time it died, which was last Tuesday, still would not start.
Pulled it home, went out Saturday morning to look at it and hit the key and it fired right off. At this point I don't really know where to look, I wiggled every wire I could find while it was running Saturday and no change, but it does seem to have a miss in it while it is idling...... I am not sure where to start looking....
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My 01 4x4 F350CCD was having this "issue" where, after leaving it plugged in all night, I would start it up with no problems but then after idling for maybe 15-30 seconds it would just fade out and shut off. The first few times I would hit the key again and it would crank for an extended period but then refire and it would idle normally. Eventually I learned that if I held the idle up at around 1000 I could see the rpm drop slightly after starting but it wouldn't shut off.
About a week ago I started the truck and wasn't paying attention and didn't hold the throttle open and the truck shut off. This time after cranking it (probably way to much) it wouldn't start at all. I changed the fuel filter but that did nothing. I also notice that the tach does move to around 500 or so when cranking. I have not changed the CPS but a new one had been installed in May 2015. The engine is cranking but there is no white smoke or even attempt to fire.
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Ok let's start I have a 1999 f350 7.3 4x4 Work Model that I'm have some odd transmission problems. I drove it 20 mins to do a 2hr job no problems finished that got in took off I few seconds down the road it was like the tranny just dropped out no sound just reved no gears at all. So I shut it down tried to start again would not start in park without pulling up on the lever which had experienced here and there for a good while. So got it started went in gear took off same thing went popped out no gears. I started it again this time used reverse same thing as drive so got it where I knew I could leave it but now it would not start in park anymore at all. Next day picked up a neutral saftey switch changed it now it starts in park every time but still starts going looses the gear then have no gears shut it down sometimes had to wait a few then again same issue.
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I have a 03 f250 6.0 had it for 2 years never had a problem. Last week I went out and started it to warm it's up as it is cold out here and it started fine I then noticed some thing hanging down under the dash so I started tucking it up under there and it arced and all gauges shut off and the truck shut off. So I took the panel down and it was the biometric pressure sensor that was hanging and the previous owner had a remote start on there that I never knew about and 2 wires on the sensor were stripped and not taped as well as some others. I checked all fuses and relays all working good tested fuse box and everything good there, replaced bio sensor and still nothing turn the key and try to start it and it does nothing injectors, don't precycle fuel pump doesn't run and starter doesn't kick in. I jumped starter off the wire on fender and it turns over but still doesn't start. Also I think it's the ecu but don't want to buy another one if I'm not sure if that's the problem.
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6.7 with 19k . Drove about 2 miles and noticed dash lights were flashing and ac was not working correctly . Pulled into garage shut off and truck wouldn't restart, no crank ! All my dash lights were flashing & dash was giving numerous messages.. At least I wasn't on my road trip 2 weeks ago! 3400 mile round trip. Truck was towed to dealer! My 6.0 never left me stranded & I had 3 of them..
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Last November I forgot to plug my truck in and it got down to 0, my girlfriend tried unsuccessfully to jump start it. When I got home I jumped it and got it running. I took it down to a heated shop to troubleshoot the glow plug circuit. I discovered it was not getting 12v to the glow plug relay. Also I started it and tried to back it up in the shop, when put in reverse it killed the engine, not lugged it down it was like you shut the switch off.
Also I discovered if you turn the lights on it kills the engine immediately. It will not crank with the lights on either. So far I have replaced the computer,ignition switch,batteries, and cam positioning sensor. Now comes the weird part!! I decided to get it running and pull the bulbs out of the back up lights I pulled the drivers bulb first then the passengers side bulb. When I pulled the passengers side bulb it killed the engine.
It is not my daily driver so it still sits in my shop. I have a hunch it's a ground issue but I've checked and cleaned up all the grounds I can find and it still has the problem.
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So on my way home today I lost all power, the engine shut of and i coasted to side of the road. Went to try and start, nothing. When key is in the crank position the gauges were jumping all over the place, also accompanied by a lot of clicking from behind the dash. Nothing happened when tried to crank. No power to windows or even emergency flashers.
So i get it towed home, and of course it turns over. But this only lasts about ten seconds, then dies. I could do that a few times and then back to no power at all. Even at times with the keys out of ignition it will still click and make a lot of noise.
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Lately I had a couple glitches seemingly unrelated with this electrical system. Something just failed. I have two new motor craft batteries cleaned all wires/ clamps. The alternator has been tested good. The other morning I started my truck and smelt a wire burning up before I took off. Battery positive to glow plug relay was hot. The solenoid was junk so I replaced it. Still not the problem. With the battery positive hooked to the solenoid, truck will not shut off. It will shut off by key if the wire is unhooked. I do know this. When hooked up, the battery positive is feeding voltage (.4v) through a new solenoid to the PCM, thus keeping the pcm life when the key goes off. Bad pcm? With the battery positive hooked up to the glow plug solenoid. There is such a large draw that the charging system cannot keep up. Wich out me on The side of the interstate at 1 am as I watched my lights grow dimmer til truck stalled. U hooked the battery positive from solenoid got a jump and been fine since....however, there's a major problem lying there right?
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My coolant bottle, as well as my entire engine compartment, is full of oil. The truck won't run. It will make ICP when I first crank it but then it goes away. I have the orings and gaskets to do the oil cooler, it is there any chance there's something else that caused this? Anyway to diagnose the oil cooler before I disassemble?
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I have a 2001 F350 7.3 the truck will at random times loose power and almost shut down. A while back I had an issue with the uvch plugs and changed that out. Truck ran fine till I got some dirty fuel from a diesel tank at my friends farm. I did the hutch mod cleaned the tank and now have a frame mounted screw on filter before the pump. I cleaned the fuel bowl and changed the filter. Fuel pressure stays at 59psi and drops to 56psi wot. The truck is tuned with an edge programmer. After these mods the truck ran awesome for over 2000 miles. Now it has the above stated problem. I have fuel and hpop guages along with egt and boost. During the problem egts will increase rapidly and it seems like it is starving for fuel.
Hpop gauge reads 3300psi or above during wot and shows good pressure during these mishaps. I have auto Enginuity and I get a different reading at wot of only 2600 psi. The hpop gauge is tapped into the icp sensor per instructions and has been installed this way for a while with no issues. The tune has been on the truck for over 40000 miles. The only thing that I can come up with is it will occasionally throw a p1211 under wot or pulling my Gooseneck Dump Trailer when loaded. However it acts up sometimes and doesn't throw the code. Sometimes you can shut it off and start it back up and it's fine other times it will last for the whole day. My only guess is low pressure from the hpop but I don't reflect this from my gauge only on AE at wot. Wouldn't a bad pump act up all the time? Am I correct to think it is just the ipr?
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It just started to die on him lately. Doesn't matter if he is driving or idling. When it dies doesnt sputter or anything. Won't crank up until next day and if it does start only runs for 5 min or so. Checked ficm 48.5 volts. Ipr while cranking is at 48% icp is about 1200 while cranking. The dash oil pressure or rpm gauge does not move but when I hook up my ids it shows 180 rpm. Changed fuel filters. New oil. Does fill up oil canister if I hold the drane button down. Getting fuel. Thought maybe ipr but thought I would check with you all. Unplugging the icp doesn't work. 03 motor with 180k miles.
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