Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: F250 Hard To Start And Won't Stay Running
Jul 7, 2016
What's up power stroke fam. I have a 1999 F250 Super Duty 7.3 liter this is what happen, was leaving the job site the truck started just fine ran for about 3 city blocks stopped at a stop sign and it started to run ruff like it was out of fuel but had a half tank then poof it shut off. After towing the truck home and trying to start it I could hear a relay clicking very sporadic the service engine light came on then when off and the truck started and the exact same thing happened started running ruff and shut off. Where should I start other than taking it to the shop?
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My 2003 F250 started to sputter and died. Won't restart the rest of thw day. Go out next morning will start right up for about 1-2 min and dies like you shut thw key off. Won't restart. Cranks fine.
Oil pressure showing 1300lbs while cranking,ipr is 43% while cranking, but when koeo ipr is 97% which is weird. My excision shows 23% koeo.New oil,oem filters,fuel pressure is at 50 lbs while cranking. Seems electrical or something. Oil pump maybe but why 1300 lbs while cranking of that?
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I have a 01 7.3 crew cab dually and it's had cold start problems since i got it in 09.I have replaced everything i could think of including glow plugs gpr,harness and batteries. Any temp below 40 i have to plug it in . If i cycle it 3 or 4 times it will start but it smokes and runs ruff. My 00 7.3 excursion starts up down to about 10 degrees than i have to plug it in so i know dually is not right.
I have a afe intake,1.5 injectors, driven diesel rr, adrenilin pump,dp tune by gear head. Kinda at wits end don't mind plugging it in in dead of winter but now one night it's 30 next it's50 and i don't have to . Also have fully built trans by level 10 if it matters .I get battery light coming on every now and again. New alt about every year and a half.
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My 2003 7.3 f250 has trouble starting whenever the temperature is less than 65 degrees. If it is less than 50 degrees I have to plug it in for it to start. Once it starts it runs rough. I let it warm up and it still runs rough. Once I start down the road I'll get on it a bit and it takes off like something lets loose. It then runs geat for the rest of the day but does seem to still crank a little more than it should when I restart it through out the day.
The pickup has 152000k
List of repairs I have done to the truck:
-new gpr
-new glow plugs
-new uvch both sides
-new valve cover gaskets
-new blue cps
-new fuel filter
-new batteries everstart maxx 65n
The truck has an afe air intake, straight exhaust, and a super chips tuner set on mileage saving. It blows white smoke when first started but clears up pretty quick.
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But it starts. '99 F250 PS. Had code P1670, cleared it. No other codes. Started truck back up and ran KOER test with AE(which I'm not very good with). The code did not come back. It is hard to start plugged in cold or warmed up. I have WTS light and it goes out(glow plugs are original). RPMs are slow to come up (almost starts before it kicks in). Doesn't matter if fuel tank is full or not. Oil level is fine. Batteries are charged and check good. Starter checks out ok. Buzz test was ok. Now when I run KOER do I need to do anything other than hitting the initiate button?
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I just bought a 99 f250 super duty with 6 speed and it has clutch problem the clutch pedal goes about 1/3 of way down then drops to the floor and stays. I pulled slave cylinder and it has just as much resistance as a new one. my other thought was a spring internally in transmission. any other thoughts or do I just need to replace the clutch?
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I have a 2006 Fod F250 with the 6.0 Diesel, I just got it back from the shop after doing Ficm, Injectors, Glow Plugs, Glow Plug harnesses, and brakes. I have driven the truck about 200 miles and got it back to the shop and parked on a hill and rewired the 7 way trailer harness. Now it will start for a second or two and then die. I checked all fuses(dont know how to check relays), pulled DTC and got a low fuel pump voltage. I pulled the IDM relay and was getting power to 2 of the 4 terminals and plugged the relay back and was getting power to 3 of four terminals(not sure if Im spose to have power to all 4), not getting power to the IDM 10 amp fuse in engine compartment either.
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2002 F250 7.3L suddenly idling and running very rough, and doesn't have any power. Truck has been running perfect, it's my daily driver, and just put a couple hundred miles on it yesterday with no problems. I had been having some transmission issues when I tow heavy so I bought a new transmission yesterday. This morning I pulled the truck into my garage to change the transmission. Again truck ran fine, no signs of any issues before the trans swap. I changed out the transmission, which included unhooking the trans wiring harness from all the various sensors, and unbolting the starter.
I didn't mess with anything in the engine bay except for unhooking the batteries. I had also repaired the overdrive button wires, as they had been pinched in the steering column and the button wasn't working. When I got everything hooked back up I cranked it up to get the trans fluid flowing through the transmission, it started right up and idled good. I had it running for a few minutes and it was beginning to make a little more noise than usual. When I started to back out of the garage it was getting pretty rough, almost like it was running out of diesel. I put it in neutral and gave it some throttle and noticed I was getting white smoke out of the exhaust and could smell diesel pretty strong.
I checked my injector resistance at the valve covers and got around 4 ohms +/- on all of the injectors. I rechecked all of the clips and harness that I had messed with. I took a look at the ICP sensor and it has oil in the connector which I know can cause a rough running condition in some cases. It looks like it has had oil on it for a while. I unhooked the batteries again for about 20 minutes to try and reset anything that may have messed up. I checked a bunch of connections under the hood to see if anything was unhooked or loose.
I also cleaned up the connector on the ICP sensor. I started the truck back up and it idled perfect so I pulled it back out of the garage and headed down the driveway. It almost immediately started running rough again and barely had the power to go up a small hill. I pulled back in and tried unplugging the ICP while it was running, which made a slight difference in the idle but still very rough. I plugged it back in and the idle progressively got worse until it was chugging really bad. I shut it off after that and haven't messed with it again.
What might have happened? Could it be a bad sensor or transmission position sensor in the new trans? Is it just coincidence that this happened with a transmission swap? I am going to get a new ICP, but if there is anything else I can try/check before I can pick up the ICP on Monday let me know.
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My 2001 f250 7.3 was running then just shut off like I had turned the key off, While trying to start back up, the truck turns over fine but no fire. I also have no gauges, I tested both fuse boxes and the one under the hood I have power on all big fuses, including the PCM but some of the small ones I don't, No power to the PCM diode, either side, the fuse box inside the cab, I have half power, No power to the PCM fuse is their a fusible link somewhere?
I really can't see much down there. The truck did get into a accident in Oct, which created a problem with the ignition and not sure if that could be a problem? That problem is, when I turn the vehicle off, it would stay running for a few seconds. I ignored the problem cause it didn't hinder the vehicle any.
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I have a 1995 f-250 7.3 liter diesel engine. Truck starts fine and runs good for a while and then it will stall. I pull over and after a couple of attempts it will start and run fine for a while. I have changed the fuel filter and put fresh fuel in but it still stalls.
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I have a 99 f-250 with about 250k miles. Truck is completely stock. It recently has developed a problem where when I start it in the mornings it surges at idle, 200 rpm or so. Sometimes it tries to die and did once but started back up. When driving it continues to rev itself up and is jerky. It runs rough and sounds like it could be missing on a cylinder. At other times it runs fine just like normal. Yesterday morning it started with these symptoms so I put in a new ford CPS. It ran great for about 100 miles that afternoon. This morning it started back with the same symptoms. The SES light stayed on longer than normal when I started it, but it went off. I don't have a scanner.
I thought it might be water in the fuel because this started the day after I filled it from my transfer tank. But the water in fuel light has never came on. I put a new fuel filter on it but it made no difference. Have pulled filter three times looking for water but never found a drop. Also pulled several buckets from the bottom of my transfer tank but found no water there either. Where to look next?
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Battery light comes on when the truck is running at less than about 1200rpm, but I see zero movement on the needle. Weird thing is i charged the batteries and tested the alternator with my multimeter and it was reading 14.1-14.2 which is nominal. Run it for about 10 min then it reads 12.3-12.8
I'm thinking a bad cell in the battery or alternator is going out. Oh and all the connections are tight, wires look good. 2001 f250 4wd 7.3 intake exhaust basic tuner gauges. Could the constant heat be a factor?
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Truck stalls out and cranks hard for 7-10 seconds before starting if I don't let it warm up adequately before I start driving. Transmission is hesitant to shift. Also, white smoke comes out exhaust if it's cold and I get in the throttle too much or if I hit 70+mph.
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Just happened today right after I bought diesel. thought it may be water in fuel but after researching wondering if it is injector, etc. It starts every time knocks real bad sometimes for a minute, but clears up to idle ok. During idle no smoke, slightest acceleration however produces white smoke harder I accelerate more it plumes and it smells like diesel in the air.
Cannot get past 15 or so mph till switching into 2nd gear then 25mph max. Had to drive 4 miles like this I can say it cleared up and drove 1/2 mile until I had to stop at a traffic light then going from idle to acceleration again ran bad rest of way home another 2 miles.
A few years ago I did have a rough idle and accel. similar and it ended up being the broke pick-up/sending unit in tank (but of course that was when you get to around 1/4 tank of fuel and didn't run bad above that much fuel in tank), plus there was almost or more than a gallon of water in tank. I have done the mod for the fuel pickup with hoses, filter canister, etc. but wondered at first today if I had gotten bad gas or water in the tank again. Not sure how that much water got in the tank to begin with but that was bout 5 or 6 years ago.
Truck has over 200k miles and Ive had it for 11 years. In the morning will check the ICP sensor by unplugging look at fuel filter bowl, etc. A question I have is: Is water heavier than diesel, would it run thru my line first? thinking diesel is heavier than gas because of oil content....
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Every time I hit a hill, loaded or empty, or get on the truck on level ground after about 15 seconds it acts like it's running out of fuel. The pump starts getting noisy like it has air in it, but it'll straighten out eventually. If you don't let off the fuel it'll eventually stall out. No check engine light, no codes. Truck has a ts chip but it does it on all settings. New fuel filter, changed oil with hot shots secret, new air filter, hutch mod done. I'm at a loss for what to do. Good fuel pressure also.
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My e99 f250 has been getting harder and harder to start over the last year.
I think one of my batteries is dying or dead but it still cranks fast while it does.
For instance when I tried starting today it seemed to crank just like normal but their was some relay clicking inside the cab that was abnormal.
My understanding is aside from cranking no power is required to start the motor? what if the dead battery is taking some cranking amps from the good battery preventing the computer from getting juice?
would the truck throw a code if it was a glow plug?
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The first has I replaced my tranny with a stock 4r100 tranny and torque that only has 75k on it. The guy was doing a 6-speed swap. After I had the tranny and torque converter and a new tranny cooler installed, the tranny shifts real hard. I think it may be from my DP Tuner. Even on my economy tune driving it very easy sometimes, it jolts into gear pretty good.
I was wondering if I could just get a shift kit to maybe correct that and if so if I would have to drop the tranny to install the shift kit. I saw a bully dog kit for like 75 bucks, however, I don't really have the money to have the truck in a shop and I would really like to not drop the tranny and not lose all my tranny fluid if possible (very expensive).
Also my other issue, the truck in warm or cold weather is very hard to start. Half of the time it takes two tries to start it. It will crank and crank and no go. Then the second try it fires right up. It has two new batteries, where do I start? Is it possible that the starter is just getting old or is it fuel or oil pressure related possibly?
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2001 F 350 7.3 183,000 miles.. The problem is the longer it sits the harder it starts.. when it does start it runs VERY ruff!!! it takes 10 min or so to run on all cylinders.... This is my first diesel..
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My truck is hard to start when cold and I suspect glow plugs. But it is not showing any codes? If it is a glow plug or glow plug relay at fault , should it throw a code?
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Just got myself a gently used Econoline E-350 7.3 Diesel and was loving it when she ran:
E-350 7.3 Diesel
Recently I have been having some charging issues. It started with it intermittently having a hard time to start, especially when it was warm. I carried a jump box with me and that always seemed to work. Then I noticed the voltmeter on the dash dropping. It went down to the 8 and I was like something is wrong.
Checked the battery voltage, it was at 9.6v. OK, maybe alternator isn't charging. Advance Auto tested the alternator, said it was bad. I replaced alternator. No difference. I pulled the battery and ran it on a conditioner to bring it up to proper voltage. It's now at 12.6v resting. Starts the van no problem. When running though the voltage doesn't increase to 13-14 volts like it should though telling me the alternator isn't doing it's job. Increasing engine RPM actually decreases voltage? Checked all the obvious things like bad grounds but everything seemed clean.
The only thing that was fishy was when I pulled the three way plug from the alternator, one of the pins had corrosion on it. I cleaned it up before installing the new alternator. I didn't do a diode test on the new alternator because I figured it was new, but hey maybe I got a lemon?
Anyway I'm going crazy trying to figure out where the problem is. All fuses are ok. Is there an external regulator or something I should be on the lookout for? Is there anything else that could be causing a non charging issue? The battery was manufactured in 2014 so it's relatively new.
And on a random note my ABS light is now on?
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So I've been having issues with starting my truck lately. It was really hard to turn over, would start really hard when it did and would blow some black smoke. Turns out my starter was bad so I replaced it with a DB Electric high torque starter. Now it starts up great... for the most part.
I'm still having some black smoke when it's a cold start and/or I have the key set to "On" to warm the glow plugs for a few seconds. It's almost like the starter is turning over the engine, but for the first few turns it sounds empty or hollow (at least that's the best way I can describe it). After the first turns it will sound normal how it's supposed to and will fire up shortly after but with some black smoke.
If my car is already warm it cranks right up without any smoke unless I have the key set to "On" for a few seconds to warm the glow plugs like I said earlier. Pretty much if I warm the glow plugs it makes it harder to start up for some odd reason.
What might cause this or how to fix it? Maybe some of my glow plugs are going bad, or possibly my IDM? I used to have the P1670 code by itself, however, that went away when I replaced the starter. I also just replaced my camshaft position sensor just to be sure it wasn't going bad. I've also been having some boost pressure leaks if that's relevant at all.
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