Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: F250 Shut Down While Coming Up A Mountain On The Interstate
Mar 17, 2017
Shortly after i bought the truck and started driving it home, it shut down on me while coming up a mountain on the interstate. I had probably drove it about 10-15 miles and about 20-30 minutes of running after being dead cold. The temp gauge was about in the middle and it would not start up again until about an hour and a half later, which I was able to drive it home another 20 miles away.
There are no codes, which a mechanic told me it is probably an intermittent problem then. He then told me it would either be the cps, ipr or fuel pump. I have changed the cps and since then have not been able to replicate the problem but I have also not been able to get the engine up to temp because of the recent weather being so cold. I want to test the truck and see if I can get it to stall again but what this could be or what I can do to test the truck?
The truck is a 2003 f250 7.3 4x4 automatic, short bed, crew cab, with 320k miles.
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Truck is an early 1999 F250 Super Duty ext cab long bed, ZF6 swap. 164k miles on the dash, has the newer injectors and hpop from what I was told. It does have a 6 position switch, I typically keep it at the daily 70 horse gain tune. I do not beat the truck often. I don't tow often either.
Truck always took a few seconds longer to start than other 7.3s I have seen. So two days in row, after 8 hours of sitting in the sun, my truck did not wanna start right. Took about 5 minutes of cranking both days to get it to start. Then today on my way to work in the morning I started truck let it idle, everything seemed fine, Started driving and the engine just didn't sound right, but I figured maybe it was still a little cold. Continued driving, and it stalled out ( zf6) , I tried pop starting it but that only got me another block or two, after 10 minutes of cranking I got it to start up made it a half mile it shut off, same thing started and got it home. It cranked longer than normal but started at home after it I turned it off.
At work now so I have yet to check anything. Replacing CPS after work No smoke out of tailpipe, It is getting fuel, I checked the filter. I am no master mechanic, I do basic maintenance like oil changes, brakes, filters and censors my self. Anything more intensive I have not done. If it is not the CPS what else could it be, and how would I go about checking?
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I have a 2000 f250 7.3 with about 230,000 miles on it. So I filled my truck up to go out of town got on my way drove about 50 miles and the next stop I made the truck shut off and would not start again. I figured CPS went out again! nope changed it still not start. So check the fuel pump seemed fine was getting diesel. Checked oil, was a little low so i topped it off nothing. So i left the truck over night and came back on sunday still nothing. I finally got it started with a shot of quick start i know its not good but i had to get this Truck home. I drove and made it almost home took my foot off the pedal and it stalled again so i pulled it home. Had a guy go over and scan it and it says the oil pressure is at 30 psi when cranking so he says the hpop is probably bad.
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I have a 99 F 250 7.3. It runs fine at idle even for a long time. When I drive around the block a couple of times it will start chugging and lose power and shut off. I have been mixing fryer oil with the diesel. I changed the fuel filter, oil change, crank sensor and fuel pump. I added 15 gallons of diesel and diesel treatment. Pulled fuel filter and bowel is full I'm not sure where to look next.
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Have no OD, when you press the OD button nothing happens and then the OD light flashes until she's shut down. On start up no flashing until OD button pressed. All other gears shift lovely. Haven't checked codes yet.
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I had some starting issues a little bit ago, but got those sorted out- I installed a new ICP a few days ago and haven't had any more issues. We came up to the mountains last night (got down to about 35), and now it won't start this morning after 3 GP cycles. So I tested the GPR, and the always hot post was, well, always hot. I tested the other post with ignition on, and it had nothin.
Luckily I had a new GPR, so I swapped it out and everything tested normal on both posts. Still won't start. I'm getting white smoke so I know there's fuel (plus my pressure gauge is at about 58 psi). What else am I missing? I've also tested all the fuses....
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My truck is an 02 F250 7.3 with 280,000+ miles on it, so I wouldn't be surprised if I might have a number of things going wrong. It runs pretty good, but is still far from 100%, at least up to my standards. So the problem has been going on for the last two or three weeks and got worse today, and there were a few things leading up to it as well. I'll start off with the first thing that happened that I think might be related. It was about 6 months ago, my buddy and I were putting my new headlights in.
It was parked in his garage and we backed it out a little bit to try and adjust them. It was sitting there idling for a minute or two and just shut off or almost stalled out. Tried to restart it and it wouldn't start, tried multiple times to no avail. It acted similar to when I had glow plug troubles when I first got the truck, it would just crank and crank, but never actually kick over and start, along with putting white smoke out the exhaust. Ended up waiting about a half hour and then the truck fired right up with no problems after that, so I didn't think much of it.
Then fast forward to last week to when something similar happened. Started it up after sitting for a few days, started right up, idled for a few seconds and then just shut off. Started it back up ran for a second and died again. Tried a third time with the same result. Fourth time fired right up again and stayed running, let it run for a few minutes and was fine. Also along with this, there was a bad squeaking coming from the front of the truck, like what a belt would sound like. I have recently replaced the belt because it was squeaking and actually got chewed up and almost shredded completely apart.
So not sure why it is squeaking again, but not sure if this could be related or not. Then took it back to my dorm room to get my stuff, and then made it the hour or so drive home from school, without issue. Even went to a few stores before I went home, and shut the truck off and started it back up multiple times, again with no issues. When I drove back earlier this week it was fine until I got there and put it in park. It idled for few seconds and then cut out for a second, but then idled back up and continued to run fine. It has done that a few times as well. So it will do it on a cold start or after already fully warmed up.
Then it got worse today. Again had trouble starting it cold, same as what I explained early. Except second time cranking it wouldn't start at all, then on the third crank it started up and stayed running. But on the drive home is when it got worse. About 5 or 10 minutes into my drive, was just cruising doing at about 45 or 50, and truck just shut off, died/stalled out. It cut out and shut off for a second or two and then started itself back up and continued on like nothing happened. It scared the crap out of me the first time it happened, I was waiting for something like that to happen, but still wasn't quite ready for it.
The truck acted just like it would before you start it, with the key on, dash lights worked and the radio still worked. It did this 4 more times in similar ways, would die and then start back up, at various speeds and at roughly 5 or so minute intervals. I decided to just keep going as long as the truck would start and stay running, hoping to make it home. It did it a fifth time and this time the truck completely shut off and wouldn't restart itself. It was hard to see, as I was watching a few different things at one time, but I think it tried to restart, I noticed the tach bounce between 200-400 RPMS and then die. So I had to pull over and then restart it, fired up and drove fine. That was about half way home, and I made it the rest of the way home without any more problems.
So obviously I'm wondering what would be causing the truck to do this? I've done some reading and have a couple ideas, but not really for sure on anything. I was thinking maybe the CPS, I think it can cause a no start issue. Could ICP or the ICP sensor have something to do with it? I was also thinking maybe something fuel related, such as fuel pressure or a bad fuel pump. Any of those sound to be on the right track?
I have the torque pro app, but not exactly sure how to use it yet, and also just got access to my Uncle's Snap-on scanner, so I ran some tests and pulled some codes. How to more utilize these tools in diagnostics. I did get a few codes, but I'm not exactly sure how they might be related. The codes are pulled are:
P0470 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Circuit Fault. Just cleaned that out as well as the tube about a year ago, but I guess could be clogged again or has gone bad.
P1274 Cylinder 4 (E) High to Low Side Open. Did some reading and figured out that this could be UVCH related. At the same time, about a year ago, did new injector O-rings as well as all new Motorcraft UVCH's, so can't imagine that one is bad. Or that one could be loose, I would have guessed it would have happened more when I first did them, not a year later, but who knows.
Also pulled P1876 T-Case 2wd Solenoid Circuit Fault. Not sure if this is related at all, but also not sure what it means either. I read that it could be ESOF system related, which I do have, but I have manual lockout hubs, so maybe that's why it throws the code.
Also a few things that may or may not be related, but I think worth noting. Ever since I've had the truck the check engine light will pop on and off sometimes. It will do it on a cold start or, when I first start driving and its not fully warmed up yet. It does it most when the engine is still cold, and it almost never comes on once the truck is fully warmed up, but has came on and off more frequently lately. When driving, it will only stay on for a few seconds and more often when I'm lugging the engine or at lower rpms, and will commonly shut off if I let off the throttle.
I don't think it really comes on at higher rpms. I also have a slight oil leak in the valley of the engine, seems to maybe be coming from the front of the motor. Nothing too serious, leaves a small puddle where I park, loses enough to be at the add mark, a little before an oil change. Changed the oil about 1500 miles ago and have been able to notice a slight drop in oil level. Also I have changed the fuel filter in the last 500 miles.
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My husband is on the interstate on his way home from work. His brakes went out, completely!!! No e-brake either! he replaced master cylinder about a month ago, brakes worked ok for about a week and started messing up again. Now he has no brakes what-so-ever... is there anything he can do to get home safely? I believe he has hydroboost unit.. he mentioned before a tiny leak from ps pump... brake pedal goes all the way to floor... no stopping..
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I believe I am having spooling issues with my 2000 f250 7.3 automatic truck. I now am running a 67mm billet compressor wheel with a 1.00ar turbine housing and high flow outlet so basically a thrust bearing 38r . I'm running oem sticks and PHP tunes on my hydra. On the 140 tune egts top out at 1200* uphill. So egts are not a problem. Boost tops out at 29-30 psi and 1-3 down the interstate. I see a lot of trucks that can hit 20+ psi in second by just squashing the skinny petal and I could also do this with my oem turbo. Mine takes awhile to get psi up like I said it will hit 30 if I'm petal to the carpet for a few and get going but I feel like it's not spooling as quickly as it "should ".
I completely built this turbo with new parts nothing was reused down to the heat shield behind the turbine wheel inside the turbine housing. I used all American And Canadian built parts . 360 thrust and a banks 1.00 turbine housing. When I bought the turbine shaft and compressor wheel it stated that they where pre balanced and I could clearly see the balancing marks on both but the shaft and compressor wheel are from two different manufacturers so there was no way to be sure that everything would align and be balanced. Basically my question is do you think it would to be wise to have the assembly balanced? Could this be the reason the turbo doesn't spool as fast as my oem gtp38 did . I've been running the turbo for four months now .
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My 7.3 will cough randomly on the interstate not towing or anything. It has a new turbo and filters...
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I have a 1999 f250 7.3 I was driving down the road today and I lost throttle along with my check engine light coming on. I pulled over and turned my truck off and now it will not fire back up.
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I just came back from a 200 mile trip and parked my truck. Next day, got in the truck and turned the key.... it turned over and white smoke coming out the tail pipe. After doing some research(you tube),I ruled out cps sensor because it was showing low rpms on tach. Replaced glow plug relay and still have same issue.. what else to look at that I can do without getting it towed. Hunting season coming soon and I need the beast.
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Early 99 F250 7.3 Manual 4WD Extended Cab Short Bed
I am at a loss. I have a slight vibration/medium roar seemingly coming from front. I have tried fixing/replacing several things, with no luck. When I get above 35-40 mph, I can hear a whirling vibration that sounds like tire tread noise (very little tread on tires). When I tap the brakes, seems to make a difference, seems to get louder as I slow down. I can feel it in the clutch and accel. pedals. It is consistent, when I push clutch in and let idle at 45mph, it is still there. Doesn't seem to make a difference when swaying back and forth, maybe a little. When i get below 25-30mph it isn't noticeable.
Here is what i've done so far :
1.Replaced both front wheel bearing assemblies, rotors and brakes
2.Replaced drivers side brake caliper (seemed to be sticking a bit?), will do passenger side tomorrow
3.Serviced both hub locks and verified front axle is not engaged (one was locked for some time, I thought I found issue, but still have vibration)
4. Tightened pitman arm joint, was slightly loose (need to replace)
5. Inspected tie rod ends and other joints, see no noticeable movement, but have not marked them off the culprit list.
6. Tightened output shaft nut, was a little loose
7. Raised rear end off on jack stands, and revved up to 50 mph, and no vibration, so I have excluded u joint and cardan joint, everything points to front end
8. Rotated tires, left front to right rear
What I haven't done :
1. Have a leak in pinion seal, not replaced yet
2. Seems the upper and lower ball joint had the slightest, I mean slightest play in it when lifting the front driver side wheel (I mean less than 16th inch) but could hear it. I haven't done anything with this yet ... may be the problem? Would a tire out of balance wreak this much havoc with this amount of movement?
3. Haven't replaced the pitman arm joint, will but not sure if this can create issue.
Nothing I've done seems to make a difference.
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I have a 03 f250 6.0 had it for 2 years never had a problem. Last week I went out and started it to warm it's up as it is cold out here and it started fine I then noticed some thing hanging down under the dash so I started tucking it up under there and it arced and all gauges shut off and the truck shut off. So I took the panel down and it was the biometric pressure sensor that was hanging and the previous owner had a remote start on there that I never knew about and 2 wires on the sensor were stripped and not taped as well as some others. I checked all fuses and relays all working good tested fuse box and everything good there, replaced bio sensor and still nothing turn the key and try to start it and it does nothing injectors, don't precycle fuel pump doesn't run and starter doesn't kick in. I jumped starter off the wire on fender and it turns over but still doesn't start. Also I think it's the ecu but don't want to buy another one if I'm not sure if that's the problem.
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Last November I forgot to plug my truck in and it got down to 0, my girlfriend tried unsuccessfully to jump start it. When I got home I jumped it and got it running. I took it down to a heated shop to troubleshoot the glow plug circuit. I discovered it was not getting 12v to the glow plug relay. Also I started it and tried to back it up in the shop, when put in reverse it killed the engine, not lugged it down it was like you shut the switch off.
Also I discovered if you turn the lights on it kills the engine immediately. It will not crank with the lights on either. So far I have replaced the computer,ignition switch,batteries, and cam positioning sensor. Now comes the weird part!! I decided to get it running and pull the bulbs out of the back up lights I pulled the drivers bulb first then the passengers side bulb. When I pulled the passengers side bulb it killed the engine.
It is not my daily driver so it still sits in my shop. I have a hunch it's a ground issue but I've checked and cleaned up all the grounds I can find and it still has the problem.
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I have had my truck for about 4 years bought it used. I've replaced the motor due to #1 cylinder blowing up. So after I replaced the motor, it wouldn't start. Replaced O rings on HPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump) and started. When moving back to Colorado where I am stationed. It started getting harder and harder to start.
Then it got to the point where it wouldn't start so I would have to wait until I could start it or use a shot of starting fluid and yes I hate that. But I don't have a choice. I've bought new O rings replaced them and my IPR with upgraded screen. It fixed it for a week then the hard start came back. Tried unplugging ICP Sensor still hard start problem. ICP was reading 85%. When the truck is cold it fires right up no problems till it gets hot! Then driving down the high and hitting an off ramp it will shut off. When I try revers it will also shut off. The truck only has 111,252 miles.
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So on my way home today I lost all power, the engine shut of and i coasted to side of the road. Went to try and start, nothing. When key is in the crank position the gauges were jumping all over the place, also accompanied by a lot of clicking from behind the dash. Nothing happened when tried to crank. No power to windows or even emergency flashers.
So i get it towed home, and of course it turns over. But this only lasts about ten seconds, then dies. I could do that a few times and then back to no power at all. Even at times with the keys out of ignition it will still click and make a lot of noise.
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My 99 E350 with 7.3 power stroke quickly lost power while on the highway today, bogged down and died. I couldn't get it restarted so had to have it towed home. I tried getting it started at home but it just pumps out white smoke out the exhaust. I got it to fire and run for a minute on a mixture of starting fluid and wd40 but wont stay running. Some background info, I checked oil and it was low but still registered at very tip of dipstick so I topped off oil level and still no start unless I give it a mixture of starting fluid and wd40. Batteries are good and cranking fast. Truck has 355,000 miles but very little blow by and prior to this had plenty of power and didn't have to use the block heater to start it thru the winter even when the temps dropped down to 12 degrees in January.
One thing I did have an issue with this past year was an intermittent cutting out while driving where the engine would instantly shut off but as soon as I tapped accelerator pedal it would start running again like nothing happened, wouldn't even last two seconds and it was running again just like shutting off the key and turning it back on and when it would do that the "Wait to start" light would come on and gauges would drop like key was off but again it all went back normal as soon as I hit a bump or tapped the accelerator pedal and it never lasted more than a second or two and never had to pull over, just tap the pedal or hit a bump and engine would kick in and run fine so not sure if that's related to whats going on now or not.
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Truck in question is 2002 F150 4.6 with 150K miles. Crew was on interstate tonight driving 65 MPH and truck shut off. They called me out to trouble shoot. Engine had oil (was a quart low) and will not start. Starter engages but will not turn motor over. Had truck towed back to my shop. I removed belt just to see if it may be a locked up pulley i know, long shot)... it was not.
Employed called a shade tree mechanic he knows and trusts. He said was likely a broken timing chain and that is a common problem in 4.6. Said locked engine is probably because broken chain is wrapped around shaft. When I turn key fan does move about 1/4 inch.
1) Does this sound like a possibility or even a plausible explanation? Just trying to verify the information.
2) If this is the case, would a repair be advisable, or is engine likely shot and i should just replace it?
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Lately I had a couple glitches seemingly unrelated with this electrical system. Something just failed. I have two new motor craft batteries cleaned all wires/ clamps. The alternator has been tested good. The other morning I started my truck and smelt a wire burning up before I took off. Battery positive to glow plug relay was hot. The solenoid was junk so I replaced it. Still not the problem. With the battery positive hooked to the solenoid, truck will not shut off. It will shut off by key if the wire is unhooked. I do know this. When hooked up, the battery positive is feeding voltage (.4v) through a new solenoid to the PCM, thus keeping the pcm life when the key goes off. Bad pcm? With the battery positive hooked up to the glow plug solenoid. There is such a large draw that the charging system cannot keep up. Wich out me on The side of the interstate at 1 am as I watched my lights grow dimmer til truck stalled. U hooked the battery positive from solenoid got a jump and been fine since....however, there's a major problem lying there right?
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My coolant bottle, as well as my entire engine compartment, is full of oil. The truck won't run. It will make ICP when I first crank it but then it goes away. I have the orings and gaskets to do the oil cooler, it is there any chance there's something else that caused this? Anyway to diagnose the oil cooler before I disassemble?
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