My truck is showing code p1277. The only time I really notice anything is cold mornings like we been this week. Low 50s. When I first start it in the morning the engine light goes on and off until the truck is completely warmed up. Could it be the injector going bad?
2003 f250 7.3 with 415000 miles. Stock injectors
But it starts. '99 F250 PS. Had code P1670, cleared it. No other codes. Started truck back up and ran KOER test with AE(which I'm not very good with). The code did not come back. It is hard to start plugged in cold or warmed up. I have WTS light and it goes out(glow plugs are original). RPMs are slow to come up (almost starts before it kicks in). Doesn't matter if fuel tank is full or not. Oil level is fine. Batteries are charged and check good. Starter checks out ok. Buzz test was ok. Now when I run KOER do I need to do anything other than hitting the initiate button?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2001 f250 7.3. Recently started this problem idling at 1000 Rpms when stopped completely and when I let off the gas pedal it idles real funny like it's fixing to run out of fuel. It does not do this all the time however. At times it runs great. I had my mechanic scan it and at first it was the exhaust pressure sensor. Replaced it and it ran fine for awhile and it started doing again. Took it back in to get re scanned and it was throwing a bad ICM code. Replaced this as well and I'm still having the same problem. Had it scanned again and it's not throwing any codes now. I have no check engine light on and as long as I'm on the gas pedal it runs great. It's just when I roll up to stop or when I'm stopped completely. Again it does not do it all the time.
View 9 RepliesAlright I have a 01 F250 with the 7.3L in it. Recently had the turbo rebuilt and all the surrounding gaskets changed as well as boots. All this was done around 1,000 miles ago. Runs great and I don't see/feel any issues, no white smoke anytime, little black when I turn up the tuner and really ride the thing but normal driving none. Problem is I have a pending P1247 code that after a few days will throw a CEL... I'm not sure what the problem is and have been searching the forum and people are mostly saying they get it but the boost drops or there isn't any at all and the truck my stall or bog down. I don't have any of those problems. Turbo spools up to whatever I want and I've never had it stall or bog or even get close... So what should I check? Also new to the site and diesels.
View 14 RepliesJust bought a 2002 F-250 4x4 Off-Road Crew Cab 7.3L and the airbag light is staying on. I have found out after the fact that the truck has been previously involved in a front end collision. The damage was to the passenger side front. I turn the ignition on, the airbag light will come on solid (just like all the rest, with the exception of the 4x4 and 4x4 low) then go out. Then it flashes slowly 2x then 5x, then goes out for a bit then repeats a few times before staying on. This tells me I am getting a code of 25. I have searched with no luck to narrow this issue down. Everything mechanically works, cruise, horn, etc. The only thing I can find wrong is when I engage the 4-wheel drive (floor shifter) the indicator lights do not illuminate in the instrument cluster. Neither the 4x4 nor the 4x4 low. I am unfamiliar with this truck, so I don't know where to began searching. I cant afford to take it to a dealer and I have children in the truck quite often, so I would like to remedy this very quickly.
View 9 Replies1999 F250 7.3 .. The truck seems to idle fine and and runs smooth all the way up top cruising speed, but when it levels out at say 65mph then it starts missing and jumping. I can ease into the throttle a little and it smooths out up until it levels out again.
I have the Vgate Elm and Car Guage Pro and a couple of other apps and the only DTCs I'm getting anymore are:
P0541 Intake Air Heater Circuit Low
P0640 Intake Air Heater Control Circuit
But from what I've read, neither of those should cause this issue.
Buzz test sounds good.
Cylinder Contribution test throws code for #4 Cylinder
I'm trying to do everything possible before throwing an injector in it.
About a year ago, my airbag indicator light threw a code 47. It did this for about two days, then it stopped. Fast forward to this weekend, and it started again. From what I can tell, it is the passenger side seat belt pretensioner. It could be a coincidence, but my daughter pulled the seat recline lever without anyone being in the seat, causing it to fly forward as if James Bond was ejecting someone through the windshield. The next time I started my truck, it was throwing the code. I tried to check to see if the plug was knocked loose during the ejection sequence. I thought the connector was under the passenger seat, but I don't see any wiring (the passenger seat is manual). My next guess was behind the glove box, but I'm not sure what I'm looking for.
My truck is a 2001 F250 4x4 Lariat.
Okay, I am having issues with a 1999 F250 XLT 7.3 with diablo programmer. I have searched and searched and have tried everything we could think of and it is a no go. The truck will crank, hesitate to start, start and die, other times it will only crank and not run at all. We can make it stay running by hitting the accelerator. The only code we were getting was the cps code, but that is suspected to be because of the excessive cranking and no start times. Previous to this issue getting this serious it would stall randomly, at idle, going down the road at constant speed, slowing down, or accelerating. We now have code P0231.
Through this we have tried:
IDM
(loaner) ECM
removing Diablo
3 CPS
shaving down CPS
Shimming CPS
IPR
Fuel pump
relay
fuel pump fuse
I bought this truck with a stock automatic transmission and 260k miles back in October expecting the transmission to be the first thing to go. Recently I had a transmission code, OD OFF light flashing, for the bad speed sensor which i got replaced. Then the OD OFF light started flashing after some hard driving when I would put into neutral or park so I took it back to the mechanic, Hanahan Truck and Auto in Sc. They looked into it and there wasn't any different code in the system but they noticed when you lay into it driving it slips some between 2nd and 3rd gears so that could cause the computer to put in a code.
They said usually a rebuild runs from $2k-2.5k and they also recommended a Jasper reman for roughly $2.8k which comes with a 100k mile 3yr warranty. So I figure replacing the transmission is probably the way to go. Any recommendations for a replacement. I've heard ATS and Sun Coast are decent options that I could build one. I'm looking to stay close to $3k. My truck is a 2000 F250 lariat 4x4 with 268k miles. I'm installing an S&B intake, 4" MBRP exhaust, and DP-Tuner's F6 chip when I get the transmission work done.
I have 2003 f250 7.3 automatic 181,000 miles completely stock. Never had chip,tuner or anything on it. I am second owner and got it when it had 70,000 miles on it. Ok here we go I live on top of a mountain and soon as i start up the mountain or any steep hill, or pull or tow something my service engine light pops on. First time it came on I took it to diesel shop they hooked it up to scanner and said it was code p1211 said icp sensor was bad so they put new one on. Couple days later light started popping back on so i decided to order a auto ingenuity after doing some research.
Hooked up to truck started up mountain while scanning at wot light pops on code p1211 and think it was live data I remember seeing icp pressure at 1922 and duty cycle at 63% i was trying to drive and read it at same time and my lap top went dead. What does this reading mean 1922 pressure/ at 63% cycle done little research but dont really understand. Year and half ago replaced all orings on all injectors, new rebuilt hpop pump. New ipr valve, glow plugs, past month 2 different icp sensor new,and new ipr valve new pig tails on both and light still popping on.
I noticed I have this code when checking on my edge insight cts, What it means?
View 10 RepliesFor the second time in 6 weeks My 2004 F250 Powerstroke has run out of fuel with the gauge showing a 1/4 tank. First time it was just under a 1/4 showing I had it towed to dealer and they told me it had sucked in the filters requiring replace and flush of system. The told me that this happening very often and I would be replacing all of the injectors at my cost. I told them that I didn't want this to happen again and to check out the fuel gauge and sending unit and replace if in doubt. Well they checked it out and found nothing wrong, told me it was accurate and should not be an issue again. Now 6 weeks later on the Friday night before a holiday, it did it again, this time with over a 1/4 tank showing. I really don't want to spend 6 grand replacing injectors and would really like to trust my truck again, getting to the point that I'm nervous at 1/2 tank.
View 9 RepliesWednesday I was hauling a couple of horses to Idaho. I was climbing up Malad pass on I-15. It's a good climb for the truck but something I've done several times this summer A little warm around mid 90's . Cruise set at 70mph following a friend in his duramax and another friend behind me with an 2002 7.3L Almost the summit, my truck shuts down. dash says I've gone into limp mode, and I coast to the shoulder.
I pull the codes and it's showing P0259 So I call my dealer and the service writter pulls up the code and says it's a Turbo Overboost. So I clear it and restart the truck, runs fine the rest of the week hauling horses around Idaho Wyoming.
Dealer says to bring truck in because there is a flash to fix that problem. Overboost with normal driving ? Pro's and Cons of the flash?
I just finished a cab swap and I'm having a little trouble. Here's a link to what I've done : [URL] ....
KOEO the WTS light, battery light, SES light all stay on and no power to fuel pump. No communication with PCM (using AE). All fuses are good, but no power to PCM fuse (#22). When I apply 12v to #22, the truck will start and idle - but poorly because I still don't think fuel pump comes on. The idiot lights all stay the same.
I did get to pull codes while it was running and got stuff like IAT circuit high (its not plugged in), fuel pump relay short to batttery, and a few other short to battery things (park assist stuff IIRC). I thought that might have something to do with the redneck idea to boost the fuse with an external power source?
Just thinking while typing, I don't have 3rd brake light hooked up yet (just thought of that, I'll hook it up first) and bed/bumper are not installed, so no tail lights or park assist stuff is hooked up. I'm also not using overhead computer, so it's not plugged in.
My next step is to go back through all of the connectors and make sure something isn't 1/2 way plugged in or possibly plugged into the wrong place(s).
Looking thru the wiring diagrams is not a strong subject for me, but I was trying to figure out how power gets to the fuse and how PCM relay works (does it complete circuit to ground to energize the coil?).
I will start with what I have done to my truck. Hutch and harpoon mod, fuel pump, new orings on fuel lines, fuel filter, air box, 4" exhaust. My issue only happens when my engine is warmed up and I put it under a load(driving up a long hill or pulling up a long hill). My truck starts to shudder and feels like missing until it looses all power to where it won't even pull itself and will just barely idle. It doesn't die though. I watch the engine oil temp and it seems to be around 195-200 when it occurs. I can turn the truck off and let the oil temp cool to 150-160 and then start the truck up it will miss for a second then clear up. I will start driving again and it seems fine until the oil temp gets up and start putting it under a load. I have read many posts and can't figure out exactly where I need to start. Some of the codes I pulled are P0603, P0470, P0732, P0542 and P1211.
View 14 Replies1999 f250, 280,000 miles. I use Power Service with every tank, oil changes every 3500. Had a few of the injectors changed several years ago after getting bad fuel. Tranny "built" when rebuilt, about 60,000 miles ago.
Truck starts and drives every time, no miss or rough idle, no smoke. Just not as much power. It downshifts sooner and really seems to resent towing my atv trailer. Where do I start ?
OK . So here's the deal. My 2000 7.3 ford f250 170k miles. Going from phx az to flagstaff az . For some reason I'm hitting about 40 miles per hour with the pedal all the way down going up a decent grade. Seems like something isn't giving the motor power. I'm pulling a 28 ft toy hauler pretty much empty . Under 5800 pounds . What this could be . Also was get pretty close to the red on water temp gauge.
View 14 RepliesAs I'm cruising once I hit about 50mph I start getting a vibration in the peddles and floor board. It's not real bad but noticeable for sure. When I hit 70mph it's worse and the truck even sounds like it's vibrating. As soon as I let off the peddle and coast everything is golden.. Smooth.. So it seems to be a problem only under power..
A little back story : About a year ago I was getting bad vibration and loosing power. I put it in the shop and the mechanic said the filter or screen in the gas tank was clogged so he cleaned it. I went to Korea for a year so the truck sat in government storage for a year. When I got it back in March I put in back in the shop to have the front passenger side hub replaced.
I don't know if any of that has to do with the vibration I'm getting now.
Truck
2003 F250 ext cab
7.3l
179k miles
There was no power getting to the fuel pump on my 2002 Ford F250 73 diesel traced it back to the inertia switch no power in or out but I'm getting power at the fuel pump relay put the code scanner to the PCM and no communication....
View 9 RepliesI've got a 2000 F-250 with a 7.3. The other day I was driving down the road and it lost power and my foot almost went to the floor. I was at the bottom of a hill when it did this and I was running 60 mph. By the time I got to the top I was running 20 mph and had the truck to the floor. When I was driving it home it was tacking around 1800 rpm and my egts were only at 125 degrees. I know I'm not getting fuel. I thought it could be the fuel filter so I changed it. Still no luck. It'll start back up but it dies if I take my foot off the accelerator. It shook terrible when I was driving it home too. Is it injectors, uvch, hpop, or something else?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2002 f250 CC 4wd 7.3 and I have no power to my reverse light sockets. I am stumped, all my fuses are good, I don't think there's a relay so i haven't checked that. My neutral safety switch is good, I'm getting power to both the blue/pink and black/pink wire. What it could be, at first it was constantly blowing fuse 27 every time I put it in reverse but then it stopped blowing it obviously because they won't come on.
View 8 Replies