Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: F250 Overheating While Towing
Oct 11, 2015
Alright I got a '99 7.3 Superduty F-250 I have been overheating while pulling my 1985 Camper weights around 6K. I put a new thermostat in still overheated.
Scenario, Rpms 2500-2700 top end trying to keep fluids moving. OD to D to 2 to 1. Run in between 1 and 2 basic on the up and flat of the road.
6-8% grade engine gets hot pull over and let it cool put it in 4 wheel works a little bit 4 wheel at least keep the tranny around 180. I only have a tranny gauge, I'm using the dash temp gauge for the engine.
What I'm I doing wrong or over looking.
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I have always seen other trucks blow black smoke with towing up a hill but mine for the most part has not. I pulled my 5er to CO this summer and notice my truck starting to blow black smoke. I consider myself a very conservative driver. I always stay around 65 MPH while towing and never push my truck up the hills. I always try to keep the RPM around 2000 and let the MPH fall where they may until I reach the summit. With the black smoke I'm starting to see what is my truck trying to tell me? It's not bad but would like to fix now before it becomes something more.
2001 F250, 4X4 crew cab, 7.3 with 205,000 miles.....
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I have a 05 6.0l that started over heating while towing recently. In 2012 i did egr delete, oil cooler, stc fitting, and coolant filter. I recently changed radiator and tstat think that was the problem due to small leak in radiator, but still towing about a 4-5k load temps rise to over heat while towing. What to look for next. Also fan seems to be work properly I monitor fan speed etc., and tft on my scangauge.
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I just bought a 2001 F350 diesel with 120k miles on it a couple weeks ago. Friday I headed out to Oregon with my 16 foot enclosed trailer filled with jet skis (about 4-5k pounds) for a competition. A few minutes after being on the freeway I noticed the truck did not have good power. About 30 min later while climbing a steep grade the truck almost went dead.
I started at 60mph and by the time I got to the top i was at 15mph with the throttle pinned. the motor sounded funny and shook the truck more then normal. After wards on the down side of the grade the truck started to act normal. I took it to my buddies house and switched trucks because I didn't trust if for the 13 hour drive.
Today I talked to a mechanic at the dealership and he said that it sounded like injector o-rings to him. I went home, pulled the valve covers and started the motor to see if anything is leaking. steam was coming from the valve area and the down spouts on the injectors was flowing oil. The thing that looked especially abnormal was one of the injectors looked like fuel was dribbling from it. I don't know if that is a problem or not. I couldn't tell if it was fuel or oil but no other injectors had fluid coming out near the wire connections.
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I pulled with my 2000 F250 7.3 for the first time yesterday pulling a 12,500 5th wheel and then again today with an 18 ft ski boat weighting around 3500 for both the trailer and boat. I had this same issue pulling both.
Today when pulling the boat/trailer i was behind a slow moving truck and when we hit a hill with a passing lane i merged over and wanted to start passing him. We started off at around 45 mph up the hill and as I started pushing the pedal I wasn't gaining any speed and my rpm's didn't even get over 1500. It felt like a stall and continued that at around 45-50 mph up the hill (about a 65 degree slope). When I'm not towing the truck runs great, plenty of power and averaging around 16 1/2 mpg.
Only mods i have is a 6647 Napa filter, muffler delete and it's running the same 4 position TS tuner from the original owner. During normal operation I run it at the 75hp gain and when towing i use the 50hp gain.
In both instances i could see black smoke coming from exhaust when pushing the pedal but my rpm's wouldn't go up and truck maintained the slow speed going up the hill. Once at the top it drove normal and picked up speed without any problems.
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Normally I run around sea level at home but Iam on road trip in Wyoming at over 5000' elevation I am noticing alot more black smoke when towing. I run a DP tuner with 40 and 60hp tow mode. I also notice alot more black smoke in 60HP Econo Mode when not towing? Would this be typical due to the higher elevation?
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I want test my fuel pressure. What is a good gauge or kit to buy? My truck has lost power towing and is now starting to miss a little. I'm wandering if i my problem is in the tank. Is there a good scan tool that would diagnose things too?
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I have a 2000 with a six speed and through the first 2 gears while giving it only a little throttle, worse on hills and worse while towing I have a pretty decent vibration. Once you get to 3rd and up its fine. I have read about axle wrap and due to the fact my springs are pretty wore out I think this is a big part of it. Any other things to look at other than new springs? The u joints all look and feel fine so I haven't touched them.
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Towed 3 axle trailer loaded with a 73 VW bug, two implement bars, plows and a small boat. I would guess total weight at 7,000 max. The ambient temp 97 degrees and very humid. I have a 2000 dually.
The following are from the ScangaugeII
TFT trans temp 175 max
EOT end oil temp 205 max
SLP trans slip 0.20 max and 0.0 in high gear
From glow shift
Water temp 196
The one I am worried about is the trans slip, from a stop taking off always went high 0.15 to 0.20 and then drop quickly. Once the TC locked 0.0 down the road. Also, when I reverse with no load on dirt I have seen 0.20 on the trans slip. I have Forscan but have not logged any temps yet....
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2001 F350 290,000 no mods other than 6637, 2WD
Towed our new to us RV home last, only 15 miles from the dealer and yes its a big 5th for my truck at 12,000lbs. Anyhow, about 2 mins from home as I'm pulling off the freeway I got a SES light come up, then it disappeared. I checked codes this morning using forscan and nothing shows to indicate what it may be.
I was wondering if the transmission is getting hot if it throws an SES? It was only a short trip, but I have no real idea of the condition of the trans as the truck is new to us too - fluid looks and smells good.
Only new code is an ABS one c1229, c1233, C1234. I had 2 of them before - think the 1229 is the new one.
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Towing a 5th wheel at about 10,000 lbs total. Towards the end of out 9 hour trip home and going upgrade the truck begins to loos power and the engine starts making some bad sounds. Although its hard to hear it starts about 45 seconds in and continues later when going uphill. the truck also made a very high pitched squealing/scraping sound (not a belt) like it may have been coming from the turbo. Oil temp was about 220, trans temp at 170 at the time of the event.
Truck has 216k, stock, upgraded trans cooler, original fuel pump.
Here is the video : YouTube.....
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2002 F350 7.3, MANUAL transmission ZF6.
Bought this truck used for hauling an excavator, and after fixing damn-near everything engine/turbo/and-cooling-system-related ---- it's finally seeing some use.
Just recently started hauling 12,000lb payloads. When I accelerate hard in Low gear, and then shift into 1st and accelerate hard again, I feel the whole truck shuddering. It's like a shimmy-shaking vibration all through the vehicle.
It doesn't happen in higher gears, only when the following conditions are met...
1) Starting from a dead stop
2) 12,000lb payload (heavy)
3) Accelerating hard (Low, First gear)
I would also like to add that I experienced this shuddering vibration very intensely when I put the transfer case in 4wd LOW (front manual hubs left unlocked) and towed 14,000lb up a steep hill in 1st, 2nd, and then 3rd transmission gears.
^^^ By leaving front hubs unlocked and transfer case in 4wd LOW, I was effectively lowering my final drive ratio even more for extra pulling power in 2wd hill-climbing. I don't do this often, only when absolutely necessary. ^^^
I must also add that I do have slightly taller rims/tires than OEM ford WITH the original ford gearing (3.73) so I'm more like 3.51 final drive ratio.
02 F350 7.3l ZF6
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I have an 06 F-250 with 122,000 miles. When driving empty at 70-75 mph the coolant temp runs 194-200 and the oil temp 5 to 10 degrees higher at the most. When I pull my travel trailer the coolant temperature will start to steadily climb then abruptly drop down under 200. I have seen the coolant temperature pass the oil temperature when this happens.
The last time I pulled the trailer I was driving at 60 mph and the coolant temperature climbed to 220 then dropped to 196. A few miles later it climbed to 230 then dropped to 200. While the temperature was climbing I slowed to about 45 mph. As it was dropping I accelerated and the temperature continued to drop.
I have flushed the cooling system, replaced the thermostat and cap with no improvement.
The pickup has an SCT tuner set to street 1 and I was told by the previous owner that the egr was deleted, but the stock egr cooler is in place. It is possible that a plug was put in. I pulled the egr valve and the carbon coating on it is gooey like it has been wet.
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I have a 2006 f250 bulletproofed for about 5 years now with no problems other than normal wear and tear. I had the factory water pump go out a couple months ago so I decided to go with the bulletproof diesel pump for piece of mind now I do tow anywhere from 8K-15K about once a week with custom Gearhead tunes using SCT.
While I was changing water pump, I ordered low temp thermostat figured it would work with towing temps even though they weren't that bad to begin with my deltas always around 10-128.. Now i am seeing signs of puking out degas bottle, I replaced cap seems to work a little the truck doesn't puke unloaded unless i really get down on it.
I noticed the other day while towing I was cruising with TC locked in at around 55 mph and i watched my EOT 210* and ECT 205*, the n ECT started climbing up followed by EOT then at ECT 222* fan came on ECT finally hit 234* and started dropping fast while EOT never got over 226*. ECT would level out at 188* go back up to 205* and stay there for awhile and do it all over again...
What is going on. I've talked to a could mechanics and they aren't confident its the HG..
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2013 6.7L F-250
The owner's manual recommends idling for a period of time after towing to allow the turbo to cool somewhat. After towing a 10K lb travel trailer in the mountains, what temperature should i shoot for as sufficiently cooled? When towing the oil to averages about 210-215-F. Normal operating temp is about 190F.
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I have a 2006 F-250 Super Duty Diesel that I just purchased. Of course there is no warranty and of course I am not that familiar with trucks or cars for that matter. I bought this to tow our 29 ft trailer, which weighs roughly 7000 and should be no problem for the truck. The first 5 times we took it out everything was good and then we took it out and had a short but steep incline and the truck started over heating.
After unhitching the trailer, I drove the truck again and it runs great, no overheating. I even went to the same hill and everything was fine. So, I took the trailer out again and the same thing happened. What this could be? Since I am so unfamiliar with mechanics of things, I really don't want to get ripped off. I have read the troubles with the engine but don't want to spend the 6-8k to rebuild if not necessary.
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We have a 99 F250 193,000 miles with a 5.4 and a 5 speed manual with 3:73 gears and we tow a camper that weighs empty 6700 lbs. I knew something was off when we were bringing it home, there was no real umph in the motor. It wouldn't get past 55 in 5th gear on the express way, and just felt as though it was gonna blow up. Its a new to us truck and on paper it should tow this easily. We have a couple of trips under our belt now, and nothing has really changed. With gear and goodies I dont think we're even talking 7500 lbs. I like the truck, and don't really want to get rid of it. With in reason what should I expect to be able to tow and what can I do to better the situation.
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I purchased the truck over a year ago and never had a problem with the transmission. The only issue was a leaking transmission pan gasket so I changed it put the same fluid that came out back in it since it looked brand new and didnt smell burnt or anything. So fast forward time and my girlfriend was driving the truck over the winter and lost control of the truck and spun it around and hit the front end of the truck into a rock wall.I have a weston bar on the front end that took the majority of the hit.
Shortly after the transmission would start to run warmer than normal. It would be 20 degrees outside and my transmission temp sensor would be reading around 140. Now that the weather is getting warmer the transmission is heating up a lot more. I took it to a guy to have him look at it and thought maybe the cooler was clogged or something like that and possibly put a larger cooler on it. He called me up a few days later and said their was a larger cooler already on it but it was not hooked up. It is a black one mounted on the front of the radiator. He said he cut the lines off of the old one and there was a slight bend in the one line so he cut a little higher than that line and then hooked up the cooler.
He told me he blew in the lines and there was no restrictions in it, i guess no pressure when we blue on the lines. I drove it home and the temp went higher than ever before up to 220. The cooler on the front was ice cold and trans pan was hot.I am starting to think maybe the bypass is bad and the fluid isn't getting to the cooler. The fluid is still pink and does not smell burnt so I want to fix the problem before any issues arise. The truck has 137000 miles on it. I have attached pictures of the cooler that he said was already there but not hooked up.
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I was driving on a short business trip and I noticed what I thought at first was clutch smell, and then I realized I had a brake overheating. I pulled over and the front right rotor and hub were very hot. The caliber not so much. I let it cool while I was at the meeting. About 1 1/2 hours later I jacked the truck up to see if the bearings felt bad. Seemed fine so I drove home trying not to use the brakes and the heat did not return. I replace the caliber with one from Ford, but the only lines I could find were from CARQUEST and they are made by Raybestos. I am assuming that these lines are made in China.
I have been looking for some braided SS lines, but can't find any for a 2 wheel drive dually with 4 wheel ABS. Where I can order some better lines???
I hated my old 1994 F-350 that had those Metal/rubber pins, they would mess up and overheat also, I thought that my 2000 would not have this problem, I was wrong.
FYI, about a month ago I replaced the rear pads, and changed all the brake fluid with Valvoline synthetic DOT 3. I installed Akebono pads on the rear and just today Akebono on the problem front side. Will change out line and pads on driver side later this week. I hope I got if fixed.
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2002 F 350 7.3 4x4
Aftermarket gauge will climb to 250 after around town driving of an hour or so or multiple trips within the hour. Not towing. 160,000 miles on odometer. Changed trans fluid at 40,000 mile intervals. Most recently about 1500 miles ago. Most recent change using Mark K's method. Was getting fluid from rear port when I changed fluid. Blew out oil cooler and there did not seem to be a blockage as flow was sufficient.
Still overheating according to autometer trans gauge in test port. No codes retrieved using auto-ingenuity also O/ D light is not flashing. Would like to run torque converter slip test using AE according to wooden things method but TC slip desired and transmission gear ratio is not available under that name in live data meter. AE just updated to most recent version.
I purchased a new tranny oil bypass and will install soon. Also purchased a new 6.0 cooler to replace stocker but am hesitant to install if tranny is failing because I am concerned that the new cooler will just get some blockage from a potentially failing transmission and I will be buying a new cooler along with a BTS rebuild.
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I just bought a used 2007 f250 with the 6.0 power stroke. The truck has approx. 160,000 miles on it. He is having a issue with the truck overheating when it is cold out. When the air temp is above 30 degrees or so, he doesn't have a issue. So,my he overheating only occurs when driving down the highway in low temperatures. It can idle in the cold fine.
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