Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: F250 Getting Hard To Start / Code P1670
Mar 19, 2017
But it starts. '99 F250 PS. Had code P1670, cleared it. No other codes. Started truck back up and ran KOER test with AE(which I'm not very good with). The code did not come back. It is hard to start plugged in cold or warmed up. I have WTS light and it goes out(glow plugs are original). RPMs are slow to come up (almost starts before it kicks in). Doesn't matter if fuel tank is full or not. Oil level is fine. Batteries are charged and check good. Starter checks out ok. Buzz test was ok. Now when I run KOER do I need to do anything other than hitting the initiate button?
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I had new glow plugs installed 3 weeks ago. Ran fine since. Today, first cold day. No start, oil pressure gauge does not move off zero, interceptor reads ICP 126. Oil level is good. WTS light does come on. Checked fuse 19 as I saw on another thread, it is good.
P1670 and 0381. My ford software is down, trying to reinstall. As soon as it is reinstalled, I can go thru the step process?
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My 2003 7.3 f250 has trouble starting whenever the temperature is less than 65 degrees. If it is less than 50 degrees I have to plug it in for it to start. Once it starts it runs rough. I let it warm up and it still runs rough. Once I start down the road I'll get on it a bit and it takes off like something lets loose. It then runs geat for the rest of the day but does seem to still crank a little more than it should when I restart it through out the day.
The pickup has 152000k
List of repairs I have done to the truck:
-new gpr
-new glow plugs
-new uvch both sides
-new valve cover gaskets
-new blue cps
-new fuel filter
-new batteries everstart maxx 65n
The truck has an afe air intake, straight exhaust, and a super chips tuner set on mileage saving. It blows white smoke when first started but clears up pretty quick.
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What's up power stroke fam. I have a 1999 F250 Super Duty 7.3 liter this is what happen, was leaving the job site the truck started just fine ran for about 3 city blocks stopped at a stop sign and it started to run ruff like it was out of fuel but had a half tank then poof it shut off. After towing the truck home and trying to start it I could hear a relay clicking very sporadic the service engine light came on then when off and the truck started and the exact same thing happened started running ruff and shut off. Where should I start other than taking it to the shop?
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On the way home from work today as I pulled in there was a pulsating under when I pressed the brake pedal and the ABS light appeared on the dash. It didn't pull to the right but it felt kinda odd. When I start the truck, the ABS light comes on with the other indicators, goes off and then comes back on a split second later.
Haven't had any issues lately, and haven't had it worked on lately so not real sure where to start. I checked the VSS sensor on the pumpkin and it was relatively new, which means the prior owner had replaced it. Master cyclinder is full of fluid. I pulled the codes and it returned P0603 P0671 P1670.
Just sprang up out of nowhere. The speedo was not acting squirrely, just the brake pedal pulsating intermittently. Is there a VSS computer I need to replace?
Feb 2000 2WD 7.3 Excursion
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My 2002 F450 7.3 won't start unless the heater is plugged in for 2-3 hours+ regardless of the weather. Today I did a cylinder contribution test and at first cylinder 2 got code P0266 (Injector Circuit Contribution / Balance Fault) and cylinder 7 got code P0281 (Injector Circuit Contribution / Balance Fault). I drove it 10-15 miles and did another test. Only Cylinder 2 got code P0266. No error on cylinder 7. I've used RevX with some success before, so I'm tempted to try it again see if it clears up the error on 2. My question though can injectors be an explanation for my hard start situation? (I've already replaced EGR, ECP, Fuel Filter, CPS and glow plugs seem to be fine also).
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Okay, I am having issues with a 1999 F250 XLT 7.3 with diablo programmer. I have searched and searched and have tried everything we could think of and it is a no go. The truck will crank, hesitate to start, start and die, other times it will only crank and not run at all. We can make it stay running by hitting the accelerator. The only code we were getting was the cps code, but that is suspected to be because of the excessive cranking and no start times. Previous to this issue getting this serious it would stall randomly, at idle, going down the road at constant speed, slowing down, or accelerating. We now have code P0231.
Through this we have tried:
IDM
(loaner) ECM
removing Diablo
3 CPS
shaving down CPS
Shimming CPS
IPR
Fuel pump
relay
fuel pump fuse
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Truck has performed flawlessly during that time period. Early build 2003 CC SB 4wd King Ranch truck 94,000 miles I purchased new in 2003. Good batteries. Bone stock except for superchips tune.
First sign of trouble: Two weeks ago CEL came on, P2285 Injector Control Pressure Circuit Low, as soon as truck was started after sitting unused for about a month. Bought new sensor, haven't installed it yet (early model sensor located under turbo on rear of engine and a real pain to change). Truck still started fine and ran fine. Dreading the ICP sensor install, I continued to drive the truck. Drove truck 5 miles to get tractor fuel. Got fuel, started truck and drove away. Got 200ft and truck died. I changed secondary filter under hood, turned key on and let pump cycle about 4 times. Truck started. Cleared codes. No longer have CEL. Drove 5 miles home, shut truck off and no start.
Troubleshooting: Changed primary filter under truck. Really cruddy (probably 80,000 mi on it). I cleaned inside filter housing thoroughly. I had to cycle pump KOEO about 6 times before it started. Shut off and immediately tried to start. No start. Ran pump KOEO about 30 seconds. Started. Shut off and same result. I then drove truck 4 miles driving both normal and WOT. No problems, no smoke, no CEL, ran perfectly normal. Shut off, no start until cycling pump KOEO for about 30 seconds. No codes set.
I then removed cap from secondary filter and checked for trash. Fuel and bowl were clean. I did notice fuel drained completely from bowl in about 5 minutes. I reinstalled filter and put pressure gauge on housing.
Fuel pressure readings: KOEO 55psi after about 3 seconds. Engine running 55psi. Turn key off and pressure instantly drops to 25psi, then bleeds off to zero over about a 3 minute time period. Does this seem normal?
Questions: Could the clogged fuel filters cause the p2285 code to set? Could the HPOP system have developed a leak and cause these symptoms?
Could an injector leak cause these symptoms and engine still run ok?
Action Plan: Install new ICP sensor. Do bubble test to check for injector compression leak. Install Blue Spring mod. Waiting on parts. Possibly buy scanner which will read HPOP output etc. Any recommendations here?
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Truck stalls out and cranks hard for 7-10 seconds before starting if I don't let it warm up adequately before I start driving. Transmission is hesitant to shift. Also, white smoke comes out exhaust if it's cold and I get in the throttle too much or if I hit 70+mph.
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My truck is showing code p1277. The only time I really notice anything is cold mornings like we been this week. Low 50s. When I first start it in the morning the engine light goes on and off until the truck is completely warmed up. Could it be the injector going bad?
2003 f250 7.3 with 415000 miles. Stock injectors
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Every time I hit a hill, loaded or empty, or get on the truck on level ground after about 15 seconds it acts like it's running out of fuel. The pump starts getting noisy like it has air in it, but it'll straighten out eventually. If you don't let off the fuel it'll eventually stall out. No check engine light, no codes. Truck has a ts chip but it does it on all settings. New fuel filter, changed oil with hot shots secret, new air filter, hutch mod done. I'm at a loss for what to do. Good fuel pressure also.
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I have a 2001 f250 7.3. Recently started this problem idling at 1000 Rpms when stopped completely and when I let off the gas pedal it idles real funny like it's fixing to run out of fuel. It does not do this all the time however. At times it runs great. I had my mechanic scan it and at first it was the exhaust pressure sensor. Replaced it and it ran fine for awhile and it started doing again. Took it back in to get re scanned and it was throwing a bad ICM code. Replaced this as well and I'm still having the same problem. Had it scanned again and it's not throwing any codes now. I have no check engine light on and as long as I'm on the gas pedal it runs great. It's just when I roll up to stop or when I'm stopped completely. Again it does not do it all the time.
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Alright I have a 01 F250 with the 7.3L in it. Recently had the turbo rebuilt and all the surrounding gaskets changed as well as boots. All this was done around 1,000 miles ago. Runs great and I don't see/feel any issues, no white smoke anytime, little black when I turn up the tuner and really ride the thing but normal driving none. Problem is I have a pending P1247 code that after a few days will throw a CEL... I'm not sure what the problem is and have been searching the forum and people are mostly saying they get it but the boost drops or there isn't any at all and the truck my stall or bog down. I don't have any of those problems. Turbo spools up to whatever I want and I've never had it stall or bog or even get close... So what should I check? Also new to the site and diesels.
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My e99 f250 has been getting harder and harder to start over the last year.
I think one of my batteries is dying or dead but it still cranks fast while it does.
For instance when I tried starting today it seemed to crank just like normal but their was some relay clicking inside the cab that was abnormal.
My understanding is aside from cranking no power is required to start the motor? what if the dead battery is taking some cranking amps from the good battery preventing the computer from getting juice?
would the truck throw a code if it was a glow plug?
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Just bought a 2002 F-250 4x4 Off-Road Crew Cab 7.3L and the airbag light is staying on. I have found out after the fact that the truck has been previously involved in a front end collision. The damage was to the passenger side front. I turn the ignition on, the airbag light will come on solid (just like all the rest, with the exception of the 4x4 and 4x4 low) then go out. Then it flashes slowly 2x then 5x, then goes out for a bit then repeats a few times before staying on. This tells me I am getting a code of 25. I have searched with no luck to narrow this issue down. Everything mechanically works, cruise, horn, etc. The only thing I can find wrong is when I engage the 4-wheel drive (floor shifter) the indicator lights do not illuminate in the instrument cluster. Neither the 4x4 nor the 4x4 low. I am unfamiliar with this truck, so I don't know where to began searching. I cant afford to take it to a dealer and I have children in the truck quite often, so I would like to remedy this very quickly.
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1999 F250 7.3 .. The truck seems to idle fine and and runs smooth all the way up top cruising speed, but when it levels out at say 65mph then it starts missing and jumping. I can ease into the throttle a little and it smooths out up until it levels out again.
I have the Vgate Elm and Car Guage Pro and a couple of other apps and the only DTCs I'm getting anymore are:
P0541 Intake Air Heater Circuit Low
P0640 Intake Air Heater Control Circuit
But from what I've read, neither of those should cause this issue.
Buzz test sounds good.
Cylinder Contribution test throws code for #4 Cylinder
I'm trying to do everything possible before throwing an injector in it.
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About a year ago, my airbag indicator light threw a code 47. It did this for about two days, then it stopped. Fast forward to this weekend, and it started again. From what I can tell, it is the passenger side seat belt pretensioner. It could be a coincidence, but my daughter pulled the seat recline lever without anyone being in the seat, causing it to fly forward as if James Bond was ejecting someone through the windshield. The next time I started my truck, it was throwing the code. I tried to check to see if the plug was knocked loose during the ejection sequence. I thought the connector was under the passenger seat, but I don't see any wiring (the passenger seat is manual). My next guess was behind the glove box, but I'm not sure what I'm looking for.
My truck is a 2001 F250 4x4 Lariat.
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The first has I replaced my tranny with a stock 4r100 tranny and torque that only has 75k on it. The guy was doing a 6-speed swap. After I had the tranny and torque converter and a new tranny cooler installed, the tranny shifts real hard. I think it may be from my DP Tuner. Even on my economy tune driving it very easy sometimes, it jolts into gear pretty good.
I was wondering if I could just get a shift kit to maybe correct that and if so if I would have to drop the tranny to install the shift kit. I saw a bully dog kit for like 75 bucks, however, I don't really have the money to have the truck in a shop and I would really like to not drop the tranny and not lose all my tranny fluid if possible (very expensive).
Also my other issue, the truck in warm or cold weather is very hard to start. Half of the time it takes two tries to start it. It will crank and crank and no go. Then the second try it fires right up. It has two new batteries, where do I start? Is it possible that the starter is just getting old or is it fuel or oil pressure related possibly?
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2001 F 350 7.3 183,000 miles.. The problem is the longer it sits the harder it starts.. when it does start it runs VERY ruff!!! it takes 10 min or so to run on all cylinders.... This is my first diesel..
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My truck is hard to start when cold and I suspect glow plugs. But it is not showing any codes? If it is a glow plug or glow plug relay at fault , should it throw a code?
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Just got myself a gently used Econoline E-350 7.3 Diesel and was loving it when she ran:
E-350 7.3 Diesel
Recently I have been having some charging issues. It started with it intermittently having a hard time to start, especially when it was warm. I carried a jump box with me and that always seemed to work. Then I noticed the voltmeter on the dash dropping. It went down to the 8 and I was like something is wrong.
Checked the battery voltage, it was at 9.6v. OK, maybe alternator isn't charging. Advance Auto tested the alternator, said it was bad. I replaced alternator. No difference. I pulled the battery and ran it on a conditioner to bring it up to proper voltage. It's now at 12.6v resting. Starts the van no problem. When running though the voltage doesn't increase to 13-14 volts like it should though telling me the alternator isn't doing it's job. Increasing engine RPM actually decreases voltage? Checked all the obvious things like bad grounds but everything seemed clean.
The only thing that was fishy was when I pulled the three way plug from the alternator, one of the pins had corrosion on it. I cleaned it up before installing the new alternator. I didn't do a diode test on the new alternator because I figured it was new, but hey maybe I got a lemon?
Anyway I'm going crazy trying to figure out where the problem is. All fuses are ok. Is there an external regulator or something I should be on the lookout for? Is there anything else that could be causing a non charging issue? The battery was manufactured in 2014 so it's relatively new.
And on a random note my ABS light is now on?
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