I have a '99 F250 SD 7.3 & im going on a trip next weekend so I thought I'd pull the exhaust pressure sensor & clean the tube in an attempt to get better mileage. Found the sensor & unplugged it. Went to the manifold & started removing the tube when it fell off. 6" from the manifold it's broke & the rest is completely missing.
Autozone doesn't carry this tube so, how important is this sensor?
I am doing some maintenance and trying to replace my EBP tube and sensor. I luckily have the dual alternator package, so getting the tube in and out has been a pain to say the least. I can't for the life of me get the tube back into place. As always, a 20 minute job is taking me 2 days.
View 14 RepliesNever really intended to tow heavy with my truck. But heavy towing seems to have found me. I've been hauling dump trailers to the local demo site and I've been toying the scales at the site between 21,000 and 28,000 lbs (way more than I want to haul, but my boss is a cheap jerk and won't stop loading the trailer until the straps barely make it over the trailer). My intent is to dump the thing right where he loads it next time he does it, as I've asked him to quit putting my wallet and maybe life in jeopardy.
Any way, my tow haul button hasn't worked through any of this. Am I murdering my tranny? The engine seems to grunt through just fine. But I'm worried about the fact that it doesn't down shift to go up hills.
1994 f250 7.3 turbo problem.. runs great on the level.. Cruises 65 no problem.. We have an 8% grade coming from town and half way up it starts cutting out and sounds like a jack brake under the hood and loses power.. Once over the top it clears out and runs fine again.... I just changed the fuel filters but no luck... I have been wrenching on cars all my life but no diesels..
View 6 RepliesJust picked up a 99 F250 7.3 Stroker, it had sat for two years in a warehouse, the truck had just had reman injectors put in right before it was parked. We fired it up, and it was missing, and smoking a lot (light blue, almost white) I checked the oil filler cap, and no water on it, after it ran for a while, it stopped. Shut it down, went and got my trailer ready to load the truck, fired it up, and no smoke to speak of, by the time I got it to my trailer, still no smoke.
I revved it against the governor a few times, hoping to clear the miss (figured may have been trash, or a sticky injector from sitting so long) It is turned up pretty good, as it came with a Superchip Super Tuner. It seems to hit on all eight above 2500 RPM or so. Brought it home, and took it out on the road, it seems to only miss under 2500 RPM or so. I took of from a dead stop, then got on it hard at about 15 to 20 MPH, it took of nice, then all of a sudden, the tach started climbing like the trans was slipping, looked in the mirror, and the tires were smoking, guess they broke loose when the boost came in!
I let it idle and warm up for a good half hour and noticed a lot of pure white smoke coming from the exhaust, went back to it and it was steam, I took the oil filler cap off, and there was a lot of steam coming out of there, pulled the dipstick, more steam, I then noticed the degas bottle was low, I topped it off, and got in the truck, and revved it a few times, then held it at 2500 RPM for about a minute, It started blowing water out from under the degas bottle cap. I called the guy I got it from, and he did NOT put new injector sleeves in when he did the injectors, I don't see any oil in the water, but there is water getting on the oil filler cap now! Does it sound like a head gasket, or an injector sleeve?
1999 F250 7.3 .. The truck seems to idle fine and and runs smooth all the way up top cruising speed, but when it levels out at say 65mph then it starts missing and jumping. I can ease into the throttle a little and it smooths out up until it levels out again.
I have the Vgate Elm and Car Guage Pro and a couple of other apps and the only DTCs I'm getting anymore are:
P0541 Intake Air Heater Circuit Low
P0640 Intake Air Heater Control Circuit
But from what I've read, neither of those should cause this issue.
Buzz test sounds good.
Cylinder Contribution test throws code for #4 Cylinder
I'm trying to do everything possible before throwing an injector in it.
The dipstick tube flange is now leaking ....
View 3 RepliesI've had a shifter-related short on my instrument panel and stereo lights for close to two years now, and it finally got so bad I had to dig in and decided to proactively replace the shift tube while I was digging in. After all, the existing one had 290K miles on it. Although the lighting issue drove me to replace the shifter tube in hopes of finding a damaged wire, but this issue has now been moved to a separate thread [URL] ...... The remainder of this thread deals with my difficulty with the new hardware.
So, I compiled all the info I could find on replacing the shifter tube and did the replacement on Saturday (Dorman shifter tube kit from O-Reilly's). The Dorman kit was fine, mechanically, and the parts fit together well. I did, however, have to smooth out some burrs and sharp machining edges where the new nylon bushings go just to prevent premature wear on them from the sub par machining cleanup a the Dorman manufacturer. I also inspected all of the wiring harnesses and connectors carefully, but could not find any evidence of a shorted wire anywhere.
Results... Shifter Movement: Overall, the shift movements are much more secure and smooth as butter, even though the shift arm itself still has slop in it where it gets pinned into the tube housing.
Now that it's all together, though, I can no longer shift down into 1st gear, and getting it into Park to release the key is tedious. I uninstalled and reinstalled the rear shifter bracket three times (the one which is typically related to not being able to get into Park and 1st). I carefully made sure that it was tight and completely flat against the rear of the shift tube each time. I just cannot tell why getting into Park is tougher than it used to be, nor can I find a physical barrier preventing it from getting it into the 1st gear position.
So here are my questions:
1. The steering column mounting flanges have some adjustment slop around the two rear mounting bolts, and the front two bolts also have minimal "adjustment" capability. Is ti possible that my entire shift positioning problem is due to not having the steering column physically mounted in the right alignment and that is restricting motion on the gear shift flex shaft?
2. If the answer to #1 above is "no", then what else do I need to be looking for to resolve this limited shifter movement?
3. There is a solenoid switch at the rear of the shift tube... is it possible that this is going out? I honestly do not suspect it because I have no trouble starting the truck when in Park, but I have not yet verified the effect of being in "R" on whether or not my backup lights come on.
Lost my turbo at idle early this week un plugged the ebp sensor which gave me a 10.7 default reading but got the turbo back at idle. Ok easy fix. Ordered a new ebp tube and sensor. Wired up the new pigtail and installed the new sensor and tube. Truck ran great all day. Now I goto leave tonight and I have the same problem.
So I unplug the ebp sensor and I have a default reading of only 6.5 now? I checked all my splice pigtail connections and everything looks fine still. What it could be this time?
I had a leak at the flange several months ago. I fixed it with the diesel o rings kit. I made a trip from TX to AL with no leaking and drive it daily without leaks. But, 2 weeks ago noticed a small dribble of a leak from the same spot again - not enough to leave a mark on the pavement but any leaking drives me nuts. I applied some RTV. It worked for the 2 weeks.
Today, noticing another dribble of a leak coming through the RTV down the pan. I'm thinking the flange is bent and not keeping that o-ring sealed against the pan. I'm going to try to apply some additional RTV at the leak spot. If this doesn't work? Is that Strictly Diesel adapter really worth that kind of dough? Is pushing the OEM adapter into the pan really acceptable? Any other options?
I have a 2001 7.3 and have found the engine oil dipstick coming out of the dipstick tube by 6 - 8 inches on three different occasions. Did not think much of it until my other 2000 7.3 did the same thing.
What causes this as afraid it will come all the way out and get into the serpentine belt.
So after a hot drive yesterday we thought to do some googling about our clutch cycling on and off so fast. Yep, the airgap was out of spec. Fixed that.
Then we added some refrigerant to the truck. The truck is "new to us" and this is our first summer with it so not sure what might've gone on previously with the AC. Didn't take long to find a rather sizable leak. :P
See that metal tube going into the "spongy" area? Yeah, that's where it seems to be coming out. That tube is the only one that's cold, the rest are ambient temp. We fix a lot on our jeeps, but the AC system is naturally a bit out of our wheel house since it's not something you normally tangle with. Is this an easy fix? Or do we need to take it in to get serviced?
2000 F250, 7.3, 170K, running rough, knocking loudly, missing, shaking, no power to get up driveway, intermittent, no codes spit out at all. No smoke visible, no leaks visible, New fuel filter, air filter, update cam sensor, new fuel rail lift pump, new uvc harness, new glow plug relay.
View 14 RepliesMy 02 excursion is missing at idle and jars the whole truck around going approx 50mph feels like good amount of power loss but still pushing 30psi boost, just got autoenginuity all injectors buzz fine on the test, contribution test show balance fault in cylinders 1&8, should I look for o-rings to be bad, uvch, cups cracked or what ----- turbo fine, hpop great condition, new IPR, new fuel pump and hutch mod, about. 250k miles on truck nothing else major showed up on ae.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2002 7.3l with 229k miles. So I am having a big problem now missing oil! My reservoir is empty and my dip stick is reading low, and i just put 16 quarts in yesterday with the new filter! im having a long start issue obviously because i don't have any oil supply! just drove the truck today, ran great been having this issue for the past week. here are the details. i came up from Texas after installing joeys t500 pump, when i arrived to California there was oil everywhere! my pump that joey rebuilt had an issue so he sent me another and bam! runs great no probs, now after about to weeks and about 15 degree temp drop i get hard starting. first time instead of a 2 second start up it took 9 seconds, now it takes anywhere from 9-20 seconds to start! so after my drive today i let it sit for about 3 hours seeing if maybe i had air in the lines from the res not being full, well now i cant get a start at all my res is empty and my dipstick shows little oil, i just replaced the icp. ipr, and eot when i put the first pump in, could this be the lpop?
View 14 RepliesI have been having a problem for a while now where my truck will miss/buck at WOT. This only happens at higher RPM's. From a standing start 0-60 it is fine. However when I downshift full throttle from about 50 MPH it initially goes, but then it will miss/buck consistently until I back off the throttle.
I have so far replaced the CPS, re torqued injectors, checked valve cover harnesses and fuel pressure stays in between 64-58 full throttle. No codes show up.
My truck runs great except as I described above. I would think an injector or two are bad, but the truck runs and idles great. My initial guess was that it was a fuel pressure issue, but fuel pressure holds strong. Could it be air in the fuel?
My truck is a 2003 f250 / 2wd automatic, 7.3 powerstroke, 284000 well maintained miles.
Just last week I sprug a large oil leak and had to replace the hoop outlet o rings..problem solved. This week I can drive 15-20 miles on the freeway and the truck starts to act like ota running out of fuel. Bogs down to 40mph then starts missing. I pull over, and when revving I have un burnt fuel and oil smoking out of my tailpipe. I let it sit for 5-10 minutes and it will be fine for the rest of the drive and this happens intermittently, there is no pattern.
The truck has a ton of power, starts great hot or cold. I did a ton of research and found a IPR could possibly cause this, as could plugged screens in the fuel pickup. Then I read about all the injector harness issues but I don't think that I my issue.
I have a 99 f450 with a 7.3. Here lately it has been "missing" when driving or idling, but only every now and then. When driving down the road it will start bucking and boiling black smoke out then the ses light will come on and like turning a switch everything clears up and it acts and drives normal.
View 11 Replies2001 193K miles. Has a miss, like starving for fuel. Starts fine and it will clear out at higher RPM, 1800 and up. idles...
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 7.3 that almost has everything practically brand new... new hpop, water pump, uvch, gpr, glow plugs, icp sensor, ipr sensor, cps and new turbo pedestal that was leaking oil, well now my truck has a cold start to where it has to be plugged in to start and when it finally does it smokes white pretty bad, misses and sounds like it's jumping around under the hood up until it warms up and revs fine with less white smoke but still a miss!!
Compression on test has been done, and good, fuel pressure is good, but the buzz test when cold shows 123457 muffled and quite and when the truck is warm only 3 and 4 are still muffled and quite? Injectors sticking?? Or just need New injectors!
My feed truck (2001 ext cab 4x4 7.3 198k) had a cold starting issue I fixed with new gp relay. Now I noticed when it gets down below 30 degrees it has a cylinder miss until motor warms up. I don't doubt injectors are in my future. I was wondering though if that is common for worn injectors or if maybe something else has gone haywire and how long can I run it like that before something else tears up? after about 7-10 min the miss goes away and I don't notice it. I would like to get through the winter before messing with it or having injectors put in it...
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