I just bought a 99 f250 super duty with 6 speed and it has clutch problem the clutch pedal goes about 1/3 of way down then drops to the floor and stays. I pulled slave cylinder and it has just as much resistance as a new one. my other thought was a spring internally in transmission. any other thoughts or do I just need to replace the clutch?
View 2 RepliesWhat is failing. I have a 2000 F350 PSD with 116k miles. When I bought the truck last year, I noticed that the clutch pedal would squeak while it was coming off the floor. It doesn't happen when the engine is cold. I need to drive it about 30 min before it starts to happen. On longer trips, several hours, the squeaking is louder and the pedal gets very stiff. When I stop for fuel, I've come close to stalling when coming out of 1st gear. I can push the pedal to the floor, but on the way up, the pedal squeaks, and then once I reach a certain point, say 3-4 inches off the floor, the pedal looses all freeplay. The best way for me to describe it is the pedal travels up faster than it normally does when it's cold, and if I don't compensate with more throttle at that point, it will stall.
I've learned a lot by reading this forum for the past year, but I don't know the first thing about how to diagnose problems like this. I've taken it to 2 mechanics for test rides -- one thinks the clutch is fine and thinks the problem is the slave cylinder or a broken bushing in the pedal.
The other shop is also a small independent shop, but they specialize exclusively in Ford trucks, so I thought they would be more knowledgeable. But now I'm wondering if they could sense my ignorance and are taking advantage of the situation. They also took it for a drive, but they think the slave cylinder is fine and that the clutch needs to be replaced. I questioned him about the slave, and he pulled it to look at it, and asked me to push the pedal slowly while he was under the truck. I still had a little resistance and a faint squeak even in this situation. But he said the hydraulics are so simple that he felt we could rule that out. I can't remember exactly what he said, but I think he believes one of the springs in the clutch plate has failed. I just know they are suggesting a new clutch and they want to machine the flywheel to original specs.
I thought the leading symptom of a failing clutch was slippage under a load. So under strain, I would expect my engine to race occasionally, like I'm in neutral. But I've NEVER experienced anything remotely like this, even when driving hard in the hills pulling my travel trailer.
I know something is wrong, but based on my limited knowledge, I'm not sure what. It's getting a little harder for me to move the shifter into 1st and reverse, but once it's there it's fine. I've never experienced any racing or slippage in any gear. The one definite symptom I have is that squeaky pedal that when driven for a couple of hours, gets so stiff that it can cause near stall outs. With those symptoms, what do you think is going wrong?
So this has happened a few times pedal drops with no back pressure then give a bit pull it back up by hand and it's fine has happened 4 or so times in the last year. I'm reluctant to replace slave and master cylinders could it be anything else? 87 Ford F-150 hydraulic clutch
View 10 RepliesIn my 99 with a zf6 it seems like when I push the clutch to the floor it's not disengaging all the way. It has a newer valair clutch in it maybe 15000 miles on it. It's really hard to get the truck in reverse or first from a stop. If the truck is stopped and it's in reverse or first with the clutch to the floor it will move in that gear. Is there a adjustment on the clutch? I'm thinking no since its hydraulic....
View 14 RepliesPulled out of street this morning and as I was shifting into 3rd my clutch pedal went straight to the floor boards. I was able to keep it in 2nd gear and get it back to my driveway . The pedal will only go straight to floor or goes straight up too the bottom of dash board. It's spring loaded. Am I dealing with a linkage issue?. I had clutch as I pulled out of my driveway and stopped go at the stop sign. Plus I was able to drive it back too my house with the pedal on the floor boards. Where I should look first?
View 4 RepliesMy stock 2009 ford f250xl 4x4 with a 5.4 and 6 speed has been giving me a weird sound lately started about a month ago and only happens on a cold start situation meaning if it sits over night it will do the sound. the sound goes away after 3-5 min of warm up in my driveway, the sound happens when i push the clutch pedal to the floor. it has no pronounced abnormal sounds through out the rest of the day when its hot which perplexes me, check out the vid on my u tube site for a sound of it.
MAH00111 - YouTube
MAH00115 - YouTube
The problem occurs when you hit bumps while braking, or if you get on the brakes to hard. It seems like the brakes lose pressure entirely and the pedal goes to the floor. It kicks back in when the ground smooths out, or if you are braking hard it slowly grabs again. At first i thought it was sliding, but it definitely is not. The truck appeared to be equipped with abs but the previous owner seems to have cut the abs wire/sensor at the hub. Another thought i had is maybe the brakes need to be bled and have fresh fluid put in them, I have not tried this yet (Plan to this weekend along with a dozen other things). Its rather scary when it happens. but i didnt think much of it until i nearly rear ended someone..with my younger brother in the car. Now i need to fix this asap.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2005 VW jetta 2.0 engine 5 speed. Just replaced right control arm spark plugs wires and coil pack. I had a misfire only when it rained and it got rid of it! Driving home in stop and go traffic and My car stalls out a hear a bang and my clutch pedal drops to the floor. I had noticed some fluid loss but nothing was low I checked everything before I left work. I finally get it towed but I can not shift to first I can shift to 2 3 4 5 and reverse. I was in first when it stalled out during stop and go traffic while it was in first gear and i had the clutch pressed in. Everything Ive google says it is more than likely the Slave cylinder that is right below the air box. I found some that said it could be the release bearing in the gearbox for the tranny...
View 4 RepliesWhat's up power stroke fam. I have a 1999 F250 Super Duty 7.3 liter this is what happen, was leaving the job site the truck started just fine ran for about 3 city blocks stopped at a stop sign and it started to run ruff like it was out of fuel but had a half tank then poof it shut off. After towing the truck home and trying to start it I could hear a relay clicking very sporadic the service engine light came on then when off and the truck started and the exact same thing happened started running ruff and shut off. Where should I start other than taking it to the shop?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 F250 4x4, it has been sitting in my garage for about 3 weeks. I cranked it up and backed it up about 10'. A few hours later I noticed a lot of transmission fluid on the floor. I remember hearing a hissing sound when I cut it off but didn't think anything about it. The fluid is on passengers side of truck, right side of the engine. Most of fluid is toward the rear but some ran down in front of the axle also. It's up high also, I've got fluid on rear of valve cover. I've cranked it up and let it run but can't get it to leak. Where did all this fluid come from?
View 5 RepliesThe fan clutch will come in and out rapidly when NOT in OD and pulling hills with the fifth-wheel attached. Replaced with a new aftermarket fan, then a new OE one. Then had the radiator pulled and all the bugs, etc. blown out. The condition has not changed at all. The original fan clutch was pretty sloppy. There are no codes, the trans fluid is nicely red, the engine does not overheat or even change temp when pulling hills. No check engine light ever. The truck is a 2001 F250 4 X 4 automatic extra cab with 7.3 engine without any modifications and runs perfect except for this. There are about 95k miles on odo. When we use overdrive on the flats, there is no issue.
View 12 RepliesI don't know what's going on maybe some body can shed a little light on this. If you hold the brake pedal down for a long period of time you can feel the pedal slowly go to the floor. So no problem I'll change the master cylinder bleed everything brand new fluid. Don't drive it much we let the sister in law drive it we'll I jump back into it the other day to go to Home Depot and once again I notice it still does it. Could the hydra brake booster be bleeding by or what's else could be causing this it's driving me insane. I really can't imagine the hydra booster causing a problem but it's new to me. I was thinking about bleeding the brakes again thinking there maybe there's air but I have run 2 bottles of brake fluid through how much more??
View 8 RepliesI just bought my first Ford. Its a 2003 F250 SD with 5.4L, 5 speed manual, extended cab, 2WD. The truck is experiencing intermittent problems with the clutch pedal.
If I depress the clutch pedal for a long time, then sometimes it does not retract all the way. It does this, for example, when I am at a traffic light waiting for the next opportunity to make a left hand turn.
The truck runs and operates as it should even when this does happen. The easy response is to place your toes under the clutch pedal and pull it aft to its completely released position.
The master and slave cylinder and the booster spring attached to the clutch pedal assembly have been replaced and this condition still continues.
I have a 06 f360 PSD 6 speed. On a road trip and the clutch pedal is getting very close to the floor. No Slippage but the longer I leave the pedal pressed the worse it gets. Are there any good descriptions how the clutch in this truck works?? Slave cyl??
View 14 RepliesMy 2003 F250 started to sputter and died. Won't restart the rest of thw day. Go out next morning will start right up for about 1-2 min and dies like you shut thw key off. Won't restart. Cranks fine.
Oil pressure showing 1300lbs while cranking,ipr is 43% while cranking, but when koeo ipr is 97% which is weird. My excision shows 23% koeo.New oil,oem filters,fuel pressure is at 50 lbs while cranking. Seems electrical or something. Oil pump maybe but why 1300 lbs while cranking of that?
2003 Jetta, 1.8T, 5spd, stock, 129k miles. I am working on a friends car and his complaint is the clutch pedal occasionally sticks to the floor and during this sequence it is hard to shift gears. I removed knee bolsters to inspect under the dash and found all linkage straight, all plastic parts/springs in place and no fluid leaks, I removed slave cylinder from bell housing and found smooth operation and no leaks. I guess I could replace both but I am wondering if there is a common issue. My searches have found broken plastic parts, bent push rods and leaking cylinders.
View 4 RepliesNew to the forums, not new to fords. 1999 F350 7.3L Diesel. This has been a work truck and has seen multiple devices in and out over the years. I removed the last crap for GPS tracking etc from the last owners. The truck has worked well for a long time since until...
I'm moving slowly to a different state and so the truck got parked for 2 months. went to start it and nothing. the dash comes on and all the lights come on but when you turn the key to start the power drops and nothing.
Testing so far:
replaced the fender Solenoid
tested the starter motor and solenoid -passed
replaced the ignition switch
tested continuity of the hot and ground wires to the fender and starter and everything passed
When I shorted across the fender solenoid the starter works and tries to start the truck (unsuccessfully so far)
So the wire that goes to the fender solenoid is not working and where to trace it to and what needs to be fixed. Is there a relay or fuse besides number 30 that is in the way? where does the magical wire go so i can check its continuity?
I am stuck 800 miles from where i need to be and I am stuck here. I don't have the cash to get a mechanic and my mechanic friends are stumped. I do have a Snapon modus tester, what to do with it.
FYI the batteries are new and fully charged.
Facts: 1999 Vw passat 1.8t
1 year ago, clutch pedal would not come up off the floor, no life in the pedal.
Problem: Clutch master cylinder, replaced.
6 months ago, clutch finally went bad. Took car to clutch shop, replaced clutch kit(found out after i payed that they only turned the dual-mass flywheel... ). Get car from clutch shop, the clutch pedal came up only 2-3 inches off the floor by itself but you could lift the pedal with your hand or foot, and it would come back up all the way, but it was life-less. It was not pulling fluid in. It was catching extremely low. I called the shop, they said that it was just because it was a new clutch and it would get better. I didn't believe them.
Two days ago, I got into my car and couldn't get it into gear. Clutch pedal would go down with the same amount of force as before. Took it back to the clutch shop and explained the history with the clutch master and then them doing the clutch kit. They said it wasn't bleeding properly and they're not sure if its going to have problems again. Car is working now, but I am concerned that it will have similar problems again.
The tech who fixed it said he pumped fluid into it extremely hard, and that's what made the pedal come up all the way (no longer stops 2 inches off the floor) and its going into gear just fine now. What the problem might have been? Block in the hydraulic lines? If this is the case, does forcing fluid through it fix it?
My clutch pedal went all the way to the floor. The engine was missing first and then that problem happened with the clutch. I had the car towed to my business, I checked it the other day and the pedal was up. The clutch still doesn't engage.
View 6 RepliesWe have replaced 4 fuel pumps on a row.
Voltage is good...even ran a fresh circuit.
Ran new supply lines
But, can't seem to understand the continued drop in pressure. It usually takes about a day of driving to crater after a new pump/filter is installed.
It never dies, just loses power and drops the truck to an idle. Funny thing...if I shut the truck off and turn it right back on...full power for a short period!
The truck is used on a ranch that has plenty of rough roads...thought inertia switch maybe but i believe that would stop fuel completely right?
I am totally stumped and so is the mechanic.
The clutch on my 2003 Toyota Tacoma has been acting funny for a while. I have to pull the pedal back up with the top of my foot about half the time, otherwise it acts like the clutch isn't all the way disengaged when I push the pedal to the floor. The master and slave cylinders have both been replaced as well as the clutch pedal mechanism itself (thought it might be the spring). I adjusted the push rod a little bit and it seems to have worked slightly but it's definitely still a problem.
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