As it says, I have a tick. It's not apparent at idle and increases with engine speed.
Just spent $570 having bellowed up-pipes installed and while a little quieter, the tick is still there. What else tends to go out on these things? Manifold(s) cracked, manifold gasket(s)? It's seen high EGT's quite a bit but not for longer than 20-25 seconds.
I own a e1999 Ford F350 7.3 4x4 with a Garrett GTP38R turbo. I have been having issues with very little power and pulled an CEL of P0221. I know it's for the APS and have been trying to trouble shoot it as a new APS has not fixed the problem. However, while working on that I just noticed an oil leak appear. I tracked it down and can visibly see it leaking out the top of the passenger side exhaust manifold in two places. It is seeping out the top. Is oil supposed to even be running through here like that?
I recently replaced my up pipes with the newer style bellowed ones. While I had the turbo off I replaced all the o-rings top and bottom and did the EBPV delete on the pedestal. I have been having very little power and cannot the truck over 5-10 MPH and stays at low RPM's so I originally thought it was the leaky up pipes. Those were fixed along with fuel pressure checks which came back good. I then pulled the P0221 code finally. While I had the turbo off I inspected it and it did spin freely and had no side to side play in it.
What was unusual to me was there was a small pooling of oil in the turbo when I took it off. I know the CCV goes through here so some oil is normal. Also, when I was diagnosing the up pipe leak I could see a small amount of oil spraying out the blown donut gasket along with the exhaust gases. I don't think that is normal.
Is there an internal seal in the turbo that can go bad causing oil to spill into my exhaust and possibly leak at the exhaust manifold? Or do I have an internal oil leak from somewhere else?
New up pipe and manifold gasket time!
Massive exhaust leak.. Likely the reason for my 5psi boost.
Wish I had the funds for headers but on the up side, no broken bolts!
I just finished installing a new turbo (shaft play and lots of oil in the compressor side), RR up-pipes, and T500 (250k and once had a very long crank to get the ICP up to start).
Anyway, except for another exhaust leak at the pass side up-pipe to manifold, it seemed to run okay but with lots of white smoke. I only have about 50 miles after the install, when it suddenly starting surging and made a lot of loud knocking noises. This then went away and came back again rather quickly. I was close to home, so I made back under power. I also received the two codes listed. My IPR is original, but two summers ago I installed the IPR re-seal kit. Everything on the IPR looked good when it came off for the T500.
After reading around, I saw that low fuel pressure / air in fuel can cause problems. I connected a pressure gauge to the pre-filter port on the filter housing, and got 40psi at idle. I then took a diesel shower and blew out the fuel line into the tank. After re-connecting it, the fuel pressure stayed the same but the engines idles much better, but still has blue smoke. It's the original fuel pump (to me anyway) and original fuel line connections.
I have about 3/4 tank, and no place to put it, so I'd need to run it out for the Hutch mod, or least to get in there and inspect. Would eliminating the Ford connections at the pump be worthwhile for now, and is 40psi at idle adequate? Wondering if it's time for a fuel pump?
So I have a ticking sound that has me puzzled. I thought it could be coming from the drivers side of the engine. This weekend, actually on Monday I decided to do the hot re-torque on the diver side. I warm up the engine for about 15min and have at it. I had put this off for weeks because it has been way too hot. Dam it was still too hot, I was sweating buckets. I had to stop several times to clear the sweat off my head my eyes my shades .I torqued everything to spec and nothing moved.
I went to 125 inch lbs and I got movement on the rear two injectors. I gave them about 1/2 a turn and stopped. I put everything back together, I used hair spray form the 99 ct store. It seemed OK. Fast forward to Tue. I needed to be sure so I went for the boost leak test. Here is my concern. I was going to test to about 30 PSIG, but I ended up at about 40 psig and I forgot to disconnect the MAP sensor! How likely is it that I damaged the sensor, and how can I tell? She is pretty stock and does not have a boost fooler to protect the sensor. Nothing popped and I did not leave the the HP on very long.
I've had a persistent diesel leak its gotten worse and I've found it. Its in the valley of the V. I've attached a photo of the part its the one with the plug off it.
What it is called and maybe the part number. The gray plug under the red wire.
Kind of bummed my truck now leaks oil from both the front and back. It's not much volume wise - probably a pint every couple months but before I came up to Alaska it had never leaked a drop. Probably nothing I can do about it barring a rebuild. I have noticed all the guys say not to use any oil additives of any kind. Trying to get it in a shape for another epic journey back down the Alcan highway this fall. Or should I get rid of it and go for a 6.7.
View 10 RepliesSo I decided to start the year with fresh oil. Like the hundreds of oil changes before, i changed the filter and added new oil. Only this time, oil started to drip off the bottom of the Oil filter at an alarming rate, only when the engine was running.
I figured the filter didn't seal well, so I repeated the oil change process. nothing changed, still leaking.
It was really cold (-10 C) when I did the oil change, I mention this in case it is a contributing consideration.
My truck is a 2000.
I'm having a problem trying to locate what I assume is an oil leak. It is on the driver side and the whole engine compartment is wet on the side up on firewall beneath the master cylinder. And the whole underneath is wet also axles and leaf spring and can't find where it's coming from. I have sprayed it down with degreaser to try to pin point the leak still no luck. Truck has 236k on it also new hpop and turbo pedestal and checked the valley and its dry. Right now I'm at a loss. I'm leaning towards oil cooler but would a leaking oil cooler cause whole side of engine compartment to be covered?
View 9 Replies5.0 coyote exhaust leak .. Since the cold weather has arrived i have noticed a new noise. During cold start engine warm up I hear a nice little tick-tick-tick which sounds to me like an exhaust leak. Is this a common problem? I have just over 58,000 miles would this be covered under powertrain or do they have some nice exclusions for exhaust?
View 9 RepliesTook the torque converter cover off and this is what I see. Before I took it off the cover looked oily. Prev I replaced the EGR valve and some other sensors and there was oil on top of the engine. Does this look like a rear main seal or oil dripping from the top of the engine?
View 4 RepliesSo I started my truck this morning and it sounds like air rushing out from the driver side of the engine. I currently have my ICP unplugged due to a bad sensor, will be replacing it on Sat. Also I have been having an issue with my turbo but I don't think that it's related as I here the air rushing sound when at idle as well at when driving. It seems to be a bit louder when the engine is cold but I could also be crazy about that.
View 3 RepliesStrange ticking noise that you can hear in the cabin sounds almost like a exhaust leak or a fan blade ticking something under the hood.. I have had the dealer check it they say nothing is wrong i just can't believe a 75k car can have this noise...
View 14 RepliesMy old truck is still running, running pretty good actually. it has a "tick" though. it is only present at low rpm while driving. it reminds me of an exhaust leak or a lifter on a gas car. I looked under the truck where the exhaust stuff hooks up and didn't notice any soot evidence. it doesn't make the sound in neutral as bad.
I did the buzz test with forscan and they all passed none sounded weak. I did the CCT test and 3,8, and 5 failed. I am running the grey CPS and have read it can contribute to a fail on 3 and 8, don't know about 5. If it were a rod knocking, I am sure I could tell, that's a fairly distinct sound. I am wondering if the bearing on number 5 rod is getting bad? truck doesn't burn oil, only a dab of black smoke when I really spool. it will make the sound also on deceleration.
I plan on replacing the engine soon, but want to salvage the core so I can tear it apart and learn maybe build a go getter.
I just installed a new MBRP 5'' exhaust system in my 7.3. I have only put a few miles on the truck since it was installed and I now have a black thick oily residue in the tailpipe. The exhaust system had some sort of oil in it when it was shipped. I remember getting it on my hands when installing it. I think the oil in my tailpipe is just the oil burning out of the exhaust system which mixes with soot that turns it black. When I installed the new up-pipe, the exhaust side of the turbo was dry. Like I said, I haven't ran the truck many miles with the new system yet. A few friends of mine have looked at the exhaust and they think I have a bad turbo seal. I didn't have any oil in the exhaust with the old system. It was sry. My truck has 135,000 miles on the original turbo. I hope my turbo seals aren't bad.
View 7 RepliesRecently I came across a guy parting out his F-250 with a 7.3 powerstroke. Said it had a blown engine, and didn't know what was wrong, but oil was coming out of the exhaust.
My question here is why that's happening. I don't have any experience with the powerstrokes, so I'd like to know what the culprit is before I even consider buying it.
I have a 2001 F450 7.3 chassis cab with just over 100k. I have a new problem... So far on two different occasions the service engine came on followed by a loss of power under a load and white smoke from the exhaust. Took it to the shop the first time, they determined it to be a dirty air filter, which seemed odd since it just happened all of a sudden. They changed air & fuel filter, problem gone- for two weeks..
View 8 RepliesI'm having an issue with massive oil consumption and no oil leaks on the ground! No clue where the oils going but I burned more than 2 gallons today in a few hours of driving exhaust smells awful but the truck is running fine.
View 14 RepliesI've been mulling over the idea of doing a muffler job on my 2002 f350 7.3 cc short bed. I do tow on and off for work and dual material for work. I am thinking of upgrading the exhaust because I noticed a couple small leaks in the muffler and I'd like to lower the egt's for the truck so it breath a bit smoother. I'm not a fan of the really high pitched sounds I've heard on some I want it deep and heavy sounding. The turbo is fine for now but eventually I'll need to know what to upgrade to once it starts to wear out. I don't plan on doing dumb chips or tunes because it's not a toy truck but a work and daily driver.
View 10 RepliesJust bought a 03, the seller showed me a exhaust leak. I found a bolt broken off, flush with the head. Looked at the passenger side when I got home, that side leaks too, and found one broken off bolt there too. Question, are these easy to do? As in, I have extracted broken bolts before, but they where on my V10 and I could just weld nuts to them and they came right out.
View 14 RepliesSo I have a non ebpv pedestal I was going to clean my sensor on the front because my mileage has went down a bit. My question is is this even worth doing since the valve is not there anymore I have got mixed answers trying to look it up some say it still affects the mileage some say it won't. I cleaned it once about 10 years ago. I have an AE also how do I test it and what should it read if I do need to clean it or replace it?
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