Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Engine Stopped Running Suddenly - Dash Went Blank?
Aug 22, 2016
I was driving from my house the other day when the engine suddenly cut out and the dash went blank. there was no warning, it was like someone pulled the plug.
-When I turn the key to the first position (Acc) all the accessories work as normal. the lights, radio, windows, ect all work like normal.
-When I turn the key to the second position (run) nothing changes. no gauges, no dash lights, warning lights, and no (wait to start) squiggly line. only thing I hear is the high pressure pump on the engine cycle.
In the third position (start) the truck will turn over but will not start.
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While stopped, engine running, in D, the engine cut off just like I turned the key off. I sat there for about thirty minutes and on the 7th or 8th try, the engine finally started. I drove it back to camp and thinking it might be the CPS, I swapped it out. Unfortunately it must be something else because I can't get it started anymore.
ICP and IPR are fairly new, but I unplugged the ICP and tried to start it anyway. It didn't choke out (like it was a fuel issue) but I checked the fuel bowl anyway and the pressure builds fine. I got it restarted once, so it can't be a fuse but I checked them all anyway.
Oil pressure builds to 780+ when cranking. Batteries still have plenty of cranking juice and without my AE, I'm frustrated beyond belief.
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Well a few days ago I pulled up to a gas station on my way to work for some coffee and since I leave for work before 6:30 AM my headlights were on. Well only the running lights were working. Well I shrug it off and later that night I come to the realization that both headlights weren't working. I tried the high beams and they do work. I also pulled both bulbs and both the filaments on each bulb seemed to be intact. What could cause this? I checked fuses 9 and 11 under the hood and they were both fine. I'm kinda at a loss right now.
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I was driving today and all of the sudden the dash went dark. No odometer, power windows, radio nothing. As soon as I touched the brakes it went dead. Wouldn't restart and all I could hear was a constant buzzing coming from the fuse panel by my knee. Let it sit for five or ten minutes then it would fire up and run good then do it all over again. The second time the truck had no power. I put a jump pack on it and fired right back up. After the the third time I called a toe truck. I'm guessing it is a electrical/charging issue.
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so all of a sudden I put my blinker on and it was flashing fast. My first response was to check if a bulb is out, not the case. Five minutes down the road my brake lights stopped working and the 3rd brake light stays on.. when I put a blinker on the rear lights and 3rd brake light and the lisence plate plate lights all flash at once.
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Driving home from work last night my truck just died. I was under load, going up hill, and she just shut down. No power, completely dead.
She'll crank, but not start.
Ever hear of this?
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I have the 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel 4x4. The other day I was traveling on the freeway, and suddenly the engine stopped running, radio, ignition, power steering, etc. and then as the car was slowing down everything started working, engine came back on and everything is fine. Then a few days afterward, I took the truck around the corner to the store, started the truck up then cam e out of the parking and this time everything shut down for good. The lights work, the emergency flashers work, but when you you turn the ignition, no lights come on, no buzzer, no engine turning over, no nothing...?
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I have a 99 F450 bucket truck. I was up in the bucket when the engine died suddenly. It turns over but won't fire. I have no dash warning lights now either but everything else seems to be working. Lights, radio, annoying beeping sound from the key left in the ignition, etc. There are roughly 5 or 6 fuses in the panel to the lower left of the steering column that don't have power to them. Are they all supposed to have power when the ignition is on? I checked the fuse panel under the hood and all of the fuses that have 12V to them are good. There are a few small ones that don't have power to them but I don't think they do all the time.
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I bought a 2002 body with a late 99 engine with lower miles a couple years ago. I knew it had an oil leak when I bought it. My other truck had a turbo pedestal leak. This truck has a small pedestal leak but it's not that much of an issue as there is little oil in the valley and next to nothing running down the back of the engine.
The other leak is getting worse. It has been leaking somewhere up front and coats the main steering arm off the steering box, the lower rad hose and the rest of the steering linkage. Last night after driving around 100 Kms I have oil running out from under the engine across the floor.
I changed the LPOP after thinking the front leak was from there. Unfortunately i don't think it was.
I am hoping it's the oil cooler and not the HPOP. One other thing is before yesterday's trip, I installed my homemade ccv mod off my other truck. I don't think the leak is coming from that either.
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A friend with a 2003 came to me Thursday. He has a dash light on that is an image of an engine. Sitting in the drivers seat, it is to his left. I do not recall seeing this image in my 2001. What might his problem be?
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My engine suddenly stops while driving. There is no warning or loss of power, it just stops randomly after running fine for a while. After some time (might be minutes or hours) the engine turns on and runs fine.
I have no clue what it might be, I believe it might be an electrical problem affecting the diesel pump. The pump has a pair of cables coming in to a white plug at the pump's back, I disconnected them but the engine still runs.
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So I decided to start the year with fresh oil. Like the hundreds of oil changes before, i changed the filter and added new oil. Only this time, oil started to drip off the bottom of the Oil filter at an alarming rate, only when the engine was running.
I figured the filter didn't seal well, so I repeated the oil change process. nothing changed, still leaking.
It was really cold (-10 C) when I did the oil change, I mention this in case it is a contributing consideration.
My truck is a 2000.
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Well, get the engine running sound, then the drivetrain takes a crap on me. . . On my way home, about 60mph. Hear a noise from front drivers side. Gets to the point where I think I am losing a tire. Got out and checked the lugs, all clear. Got back in and the truck wouldn't move. Shifted thru all the gears, nothing.
Revved up to 1500rpm and it just sits there and shakes, like it wants to go but can't. No grinding or anything. Got a tow truck and as we were loading it, noticed that the front axle was rolling fine, but the rear was dragging. Tried it in N and D and it still wasn't rolling. Also observed drips on the flatbed and the drain plug on the transfer case was wet.
Praying that it is transmission, cuz I can just have them come get it and have it repaired under warranty. Heck its only got about 3500 miles on it. If its the hat to check? Ill be spending the rest of my evening on YT/Google. . . (Figured this was the right area to post this, cuz its a 99 7.3, I didn't see a dedicated drivetrain area so. . . )
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Engine felt like it was running out fuel, injectors were clacking. I got home put on AE and it has a low high open on the code reading. took valve cover off and plug came out. I did the quarter modification.
Anyway took the truck out a few days later truck drove ok when cold then after about an hour it lost power again and started clacking until it died out. I had to stop and let it cool off about 10 times before i made it home. I changed ICP sensor. took it out for ride and about ten minutes later same thing. I have to let oil temp get down to 165 before i can drive it again.
When i first drive it Icp pressure is about 500 at idle and 2650 at full throttle, that is until it starts clacking again and losing power then the engine wont take any throttle..and ICP duty cycle is at 26%... Would bad IPR do this??
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OK here's the deal. Cruising down the road at 55 mph, I felt a pop and then the engine just stopped running.
When I tried to start it up, no oil pressure. It appears that the IPR valve may have failed, but I'm curious if the pop was a catastrophic IPR failure or an indication of something else?
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Here are some signs of the problem.
*Key fob does not work - battery is good.
*Interior overhead light works only on manual.
*Driver's auto door lock (with driver door open) will lock all four doors but the driver's door will automatically open back. To secure the truck I manually lock the driver's door.
*I replaced the driver's door 'ajar switch' with no results. The old switch was good after testing - normally closed until the ball is depressed then it goes to open.
*No codes.
*I just checked all the mini-fuses with a VOM and they are good.
*Could one of the relays be part of the problem?
I am curious if there is a scanner that can identify the bad door ajar switch if any?
From what I have read so far it appears the VSM (Vehicle Security Module) may be bad as a many of these 2002's complain of this problem and the VSM generally solves the issues. Are there folks other than the dealerships that can program the module if I purchase a new one and remove the old OEM one? Other than the inconvenience the truck runs fine other wise.
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Last week our F250 suddenly stopped running. We had it pulled to the house, about 2 miles, and found it was the AC Compressor Clutch (took belt off and it started fine) Today we replaced the AC Compressor and now it wont shift into drive. Reverse is fine, fluid is fine and there is no warning lights on.
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I have a 2000 7.3 f450 having some electrical issues. When you turn the key on sometimes the dash will start ticking and left side light flashing...engine will turn over but it won't start. The ticking is coming from under the hood relay 32 (you can hear and feel it clicking). Book says its injector driver module power relay. A lot of the times it will start fine other times it will be running and just die (prob because of this issue) happened once when I was driving.
What to check here already replaced the relay still have the problem.
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Here's the story. Truck has showed no signs of rough running. Wife drives truck around town. Truck up to temperature and doing fine on a 90 degree day. Stops at red light. Makes left turn engine light comes on truck seems to be running on 4 cylinders. Pulls over light goes off engine idles perfect. Pulls back on road light on no power. Gets truck to a local friends house lets it sit til I get off work.
I check for codes get p1316. Drive truck toward my house no problems for 4-5 miles then does the above with me. Limp it home. I know it is pointing at a wire problem to injectors and or IDM. Did a buzz test passed fine. Plan on pulling valve covers and looking for the usuall things. Any thing I am missing? What will a kOEO test tell me? Should I run one? How common is IDM to go out? One last thing just put a rebuilt transmission in it 3 days ago may be unrelated it seems to be doing fine.
2003 f-350 cc 7.3.
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'99 F-250 7.3 PS 2WD Automatic 246,000 miles
Jumped in my truck a bit ago and it wouldn't start, although it is turning over. The "Wait to Start" light is not coming on and the Overdrive button on the shifter is lit up OFF and won't change with me pressing the button. I've checked all the fuses under hood and inside cab with multimeter and everything checks out ok.
Also, when it was raining last week I found that when I turned on my windshield wipers the truck would die. My solution to get home was to just flip it back & forth real quick every so often so I could see out the windshield.
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I am a cummins owner who just got a 2002 7.3 last week. It drove great for 200 miles then suddenly died last night going 60 mph. It sat overnight then started up and drove 10 miles then died again. I changed the cps and still no start. I changed the oil and let it sit overnight and it started this morning and idled for 5 minutes then died again. I have tried unplugging the ipc and still same no start situation. I plan to check the hpop level today to verify it is full. I also checked the nut on the ipr and it's electrical connection.
I am just a shade tree at best and would love some direction on where to look. I don't have any scan equipment to check pressures. Am I correct in thinking it is a bad ipr?
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