Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Engine Rebuilt / Now Trans Doesn't Engage
May 11, 2016
Paid a shop 9000 to rebuild engine. Went to pick it had a major oil leak from back of the motor. They pulled the Trans and resealed the back plate. I test drove the truck and had some boost leaks and the AC needed charged. They pulled the truck in this morning and fixed those items. Now the truck will not move in any gear.
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Have to get rpm's over 2k before trans will engage, then in between shifts I either have to let off throttle or let engine rev over 2k to get trans to shift...
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Well I am at a loss now. Rebuilt the turbo with a new wheel and kit from Riffraff. I still have no power, no boost and no codes. The new wheel whistles. I can hear it. It sounds way better than the old one. But still no power. I really don't know what to do now.
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I test drove my truck yesterday for the first time with the newly rebuilt transmission. I was gentle with the right foot and all seemed well. Once out on the main road it shifted by itself into overdrive for the first time and immediately the O/D light started flashing. I drove it home and shut her off. I test drove it 2 more times leaving overdrive off, no issues. With a snap-on scanner hooked up I let it go into overdrive and O/D light started flashing again, not immediately maybe 5 seconds after shifting into O/D.
Codes are:
p1316 IDM codes detected
P0717 Turbine speed sensor circuit fault
P0715 Turbine speed sensor circuit fault
P0500 VSS fault
10 minutes ago was my last test, O/D flashes only after it has shifted into overdrive. I checked the transmission wire harness and all connections are tight, trans oil level is good & trans temp never went above 150. Could this be a faulty VSS?
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I recently (1month ago) rebuilt my entire front end. The only things that were not replaced are track bar, steering box, front driveshaft, and sway bar bushings. I'm having the same issues that I had before the rebuild. It just feels like the front is is on basketballs. Hopping and vibrating at any speed or rpm. On a smooth road or on the highway it feels like I'm hitting bumps that aren't there.
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I'm getting a sound every now and then of what sounds like i'm running over rumble strips on the side of the highway. I'm guessing it's the trans grinding. Any thoughts?
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I notice my trans temp gets really hot fast. For instance just moving my trailer from front of my house to side yard makes temp go to 250. Without any load and driving a couple miles it does the same thing. It's been doing it since I installed the trans temp gauge just trying to figure out what's up.
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I bought this truck with 200000 miles and its been flawless, its now 900 short of 600000.. I use it to haul everyday.. nothing heavy mostly a car or truck and every once in a while a skid steer. I got 560000 out of my trans, i take it easy. lol
at 350k I installed a Jw valve body drilled pump, tripple disc converter and solenoid pack.. at 560k it went, i pulled it and brought to a guy i trust as much as you guys trust BDS.. Ive had what Ive called a vibration since day one, could be a shudder, could be a shimmy.. what ever.. I brought it back and he says nothing would do that from a trans, so I went through drive shaft, new t case ripped apart rear end and its still there and I have just been dealing with it.. about 2 months ago it started acting up in first. when I pull down to drive I get the normal bump and start to go, it feel like the truck slows, then another bump and it climbs normally with the shudder.
took it back and he said maybe a stuck valve in small VB, so I pulled it and went down there and it was fine, I reinstalled and still does same thing. I then put a pressure gauge on it and it swings as it should sits around 70 psi and will climb, only in first it will climb and fall back to 70 like a switch was flipped, and the rest of the gears bleed off slowly or normally.. He then said it could be the big valve body, so I swapped that one out with another and no real change, maybe its a bit more noticeable.
I am at a loss. Could this be loose feed bolts? Could the shudder that I can feel at most speeds be the 1 gear slipping a tiny bit all the time? I am told that first gear is always on.. this truck has been a dream until this trans issue..
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I've searched, and gone back through my computer history and can't find it. I have seen a thread here which Mark contributed too which said what the max temps were and for how long etc. I know book is 230 and optimum is around 165 but there was some degree of play in that.
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I have a 2002 7.3 4x4 truck. The 4x4 will not engage, the lights on the dash don't even light up. I took it to the ford dealer and they said the fuse box and gem module. (800.00 to fix). They said the windshield leaked and shorted then out, so I needed to be replaced? I have replaced the windshield and fixed the leak, my question is the fuse box and gem a plug and play and do different years work?
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How to diagnose a vacuum leak without a vacuum leak diagnostic tool.
My ESOF won't engage, AC/heat blowers default to defrost - classic symptoms. And while we can leave without AC/heat, we really need the ability to engage 4x4 low, especially as we get higher into the Andes and the roads become rough.
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Batteries charged, connection & cables checked. After turning ignition switch, gauges on dash jump around & starts clicking in fuse panel. Top left relay then clicking sound from beside steering column on right side next to trailer brake box. Been having electrical issues & something draining batteries...had absolutely no cold start this winter. No decent mechanics here other than to be ripped a new one @ local dealership.
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So my transmission drove perfectly fine I just wanted to put an upgraded torque converter in especially after driving a customers' truck with a low stall converter. I know their not like for racing or anything but it's a work Truck with some mods to the motor nothing crazy. So I went ahead and bought a low stall triple disk converter and I drove around the block fine and went to go on the freeway and got into fourth but lost it as I hit 75 (was not flooring by any means and had it in the stock tune) now it will not go past second gear. Once it did this the o/d off light started to flash and I decided to do a stall test.went to 1800 in a Second. Suppose to stall around 1200-1300.
2000 f250 7.3 powerstroke dp chip stage 1 camshaft and 180/100 injectors coming at some point but stock for now
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Well stock trans went two weeks ago so warranty company had another stock one put it (4r100). Finally got the truck today and I noticed my overdrive was flashing. I have no issues though shifts fine speedo works Rpms are normal I checked fuse 19 under the dash that's fine so I'm lost
If I turn the key on I can use the button like normal but once I drive it just flashes. It works but flashes .
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So just got a new pcm installed since i fried the last one anyway. I had a new trans installed almost two weeks ago factory 4r100 now i have a p0720 code. Id take it back to that dealer.
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1999 7.3/4r100 4wd with the rattling torque converter.
I bought this truck 10-11 years ago to use as a tow rig for my landscaping company. It has been a great problem free truck, I have done brakes a few times, a water pump, ball joints but no issues with motor/drivetrain.
I don't know the history of the trans before I purchased. Ford didn't have history of it being replaced and even now it still has all the labeling on the case. I would have thought it would have been washed off in a rebuild. Again I don't know. When I bought the truck it shifted nice and crisp, having owned trucks before it made me think it had been rebuilt but this was my first and only 4r100. Other trucks are ZF6 manuals.
Anyway 10 years and 100,000 miles later it still shifts very crisp and fluid, has been changed a couple times, is nice and cherry red. I added a 6.0 cooler, temp gauge and filter. Never see the temp rise and haven't seen much in the filter.
About 25,000 miles ago the TC started to rattle, a known 99 problem. I figured surely the trans would go and I would do a rebuilt from Ford. It keeps going though so being a work truck I have kept running it.
A couple weeks ago the starter just spun and wouldn't engage. I pulled the inspection cover and noticed some missing teeth on flex plate. Got it to start my turning crank bolt a bit to good teeth and the starter caught. Now we are carrying a breaker bar and socket. It has happened a few more times so I need to replace flex plate.
Question is, since I need to pull trans to replace flexplate, should I replace TC (I would like to get rid of the noise)? Some people have said I will be replacing trans in a couple months if I mess with it. They say just spend $3000 on a rebuilt now with a converter. Not trying to be cheap but hate to just dump this trans that is still working great and has served me well.
I have replaced many transmission and done clutches in many trucks so I am familiar with the steps of removal and installation, just stuck on what I should do.
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2001 7.3 auto, 2wdr, 291,000, Transmission sometimes shifts hard from 1st-2nd, 2nd-3rd. Problem started after I found trans dip stick tube broken and loss of fluid. Anything I can do without going to a shop. I've replaced the Broken Tube.
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Iv heard a few things about changing the valve body. I tow a trailer so was wondering on pros and cons of changing this. And also what brands are recommended.
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So changing the oil in my truck the other day, I noticed the exhaust clamp at the union between my down pipe and first section of my exhaust has been rubbing the trans cooler line and there's a Nick in the granny pan. Lookin at the rubber grommet on the hanger, its stretched tight and looks like the exhaust has shifted over. What could have done this or possible fixes?right by now it's got a gob of high temp silicone acting as a stand off. Don't wanna put the new line in until I have the situation remedied.
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I have a 1999 F250 4-wheel drive with a 6-speed tranny. The tranny is several old but has only around 100k on a rebuild. Three times recently it has stuck in 6th gear (overdrive) and I had to get really rough with the stick to get to come out. Afterwards the stick felt "thick" for a while and eventually everything seems to go back to normal. Not for sure but it may have started after pulling a heavy load, around 16k, which is not unusual for the truck. Other than the times it stuck and shortly after, the tranny seems perfect.
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So I put in new clutch yesterday. Reverse works, granny works, 3,4,5 work. ZF6 manual. But when I try to go 1st or 2nd. Its as if the truck is in neutral....what should I be looking for. I bought the truck having only knowing the clutch was completely shot, was not told about this 1&2 gear issue....
Do I need to pull the trans out again... or is there something I can see or adjust, because from what i can see where the shifter connects there is no adjustments. Is it probably a gear selector fork...or connection that took a crap. when moving in granny gear i did not hear any irregular noises....
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