Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Engine Quits Running Randomly?
May 3, 2016
My engine suddenly stops while driving. There is no warning or loss of power, it just stops randomly after running fine for a while. After some time (might be minutes or hours) the engine turns on and runs fine.
I have no clue what it might be, I believe it might be an electrical problem affecting the diesel pump. The pump has a pair of cables coming in to a white plug at the pump's back, I disconnected them but the engine still runs.
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I have a mostly stock '02 F-250.
The other day I parked the truck and as I was walking away I could hear what sounded like the 4x4 clicking on and off. I wasn't sure. I figured I would continue to run the truck to get more symptoms and come up with a diagnosis.
Later, backing out of the driveway, I heard what sounded like a buzzing/grinding noise, like something was trying to engage. It quickly went away.
The next day, the 4x4 light came on as I merged onto the interstate. I pulled over, tried switching the ESOF switch to get it to turn off. I never heard 4x4 engage or "felt" it. Re-starting the truck got the light to turn off. It hasn't been on since.
Today the truck made more buzzing/grinding noises. When I tried turning on 4 high with the ESOF switch I got no response. It went into 4 low and the light came on.
I re-started the truck. Tried putting it into 4 high again and the light came on. When I put it into 4 low the light quit and wouldn't come back on.
I run with my hubs unlocked and they were unlocked at the time, FYI. Also, I have air coming out of the vents, so no vacuum issues. I actually disconnected the 4x4 vacuum lines because I don't use the automatic locking future anyways.
I did do some work with my truck and boat during the flood in Louisiana and I took her through really sketchy stuff. My guess is that the ESOF motor is shot, most likely from being submerged.
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I have a 2001 F350 and over the past few nights the horn has started honking once randomly. It always only honks once but will do it several times a night (may be more that I don't hear). I'm thinking that this has something to do with the alarm maybe? I can't afford to take it to the shop at the moment (nor any moments in the foreseeable future, come to think of it) and am hoping that its something that I can fix myself?
I'm having other miscellaneous electrical type issues, but don't know it there are related at all. For example, the power locks don't work (they try to, but don't seem to have enough power), the overhead console that digitally displays the outside temp/mpg/etc. stopped working suddenly and the lighter/power plug outlet stopped working, but I was able to fix this by replacing the fuse.
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The engine in my truck sometimes cuts out seems to be at idle. Takes a lot of cranking together going. Might be related but the electric fuel pump seems to run every time I turn the key on and if i sit with key off and the engine not going. I hear the pump come on again. No external leaks can be seen.
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My 2001 F350 7.3 dually diesel Automatic has been a pretty good truck but recently it has been dying. Engine just randomly shuts off without warning while Driving. Check engine light comes on sometimes. Some of the time it will restart if I cycle the key. Once its running again I can rev the engine up without a sputter but after a few hundred yards down the road it will die again. I noticed driving on the highway when it does it my truck will buck first, then...
If I leave it in drive with the key in the run position when it dies and I'm coasting down the highway the Tach starts jumping around like its trying to restart itself, all on its own. I don't have a scanner.
The last time it died I coasted into my driveway and it wouldn't restart, went back out there 30 minutes later and it fired right up. Its only 40 degrees here if that matters, not hot by any means.
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I bought a 2002 body with a late 99 engine with lower miles a couple years ago. I knew it had an oil leak when I bought it. My other truck had a turbo pedestal leak. This truck has a small pedestal leak but it's not that much of an issue as there is little oil in the valley and next to nothing running down the back of the engine.
The other leak is getting worse. It has been leaking somewhere up front and coats the main steering arm off the steering box, the lower rad hose and the rest of the steering linkage. Last night after driving around 100 Kms I have oil running out from under the engine across the floor.
I changed the LPOP after thinking the front leak was from there. Unfortunately i don't think it was.
I am hoping it's the oil cooler and not the HPOP. One other thing is before yesterday's trip, I installed my homemade ccv mod off my other truck. I don't think the leak is coming from that either.
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While stopped, engine running, in D, the engine cut off just like I turned the key off. I sat there for about thirty minutes and on the 7th or 8th try, the engine finally started. I drove it back to camp and thinking it might be the CPS, I swapped it out. Unfortunately it must be something else because I can't get it started anymore.
ICP and IPR are fairly new, but I unplugged the ICP and tried to start it anyway. It didn't choke out (like it was a fuel issue) but I checked the fuel bowl anyway and the pressure builds fine. I got it restarted once, so it can't be a fuse but I checked them all anyway.
Oil pressure builds to 780+ when cranking. Batteries still have plenty of cranking juice and without my AE, I'm frustrated beyond belief.
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So I decided to start the year with fresh oil. Like the hundreds of oil changes before, i changed the filter and added new oil. Only this time, oil started to drip off the bottom of the Oil filter at an alarming rate, only when the engine was running.
I figured the filter didn't seal well, so I repeated the oil change process. nothing changed, still leaking.
It was really cold (-10 C) when I did the oil change, I mention this in case it is a contributing consideration.
My truck is a 2000.
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I was driving from my house the other day when the engine suddenly cut out and the dash went blank. there was no warning, it was like someone pulled the plug.
-When I turn the key to the first position (Acc) all the accessories work as normal. the lights, radio, windows, ect all work like normal.
-When I turn the key to the second position (run) nothing changes. no gauges, no dash lights, warning lights, and no (wait to start) squiggly line. only thing I hear is the high pressure pump on the engine cycle.
In the third position (start) the truck will turn over but will not start.
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Well, get the engine running sound, then the drivetrain takes a crap on me. . . On my way home, about 60mph. Hear a noise from front drivers side. Gets to the point where I think I am losing a tire. Got out and checked the lugs, all clear. Got back in and the truck wouldn't move. Shifted thru all the gears, nothing.
Revved up to 1500rpm and it just sits there and shakes, like it wants to go but can't. No grinding or anything. Got a tow truck and as we were loading it, noticed that the front axle was rolling fine, but the rear was dragging. Tried it in N and D and it still wasn't rolling. Also observed drips on the flatbed and the drain plug on the transfer case was wet.
Praying that it is transmission, cuz I can just have them come get it and have it repaired under warranty. Heck its only got about 3500 miles on it. If its the hat to check? Ill be spending the rest of my evening on YT/Google. . . (Figured this was the right area to post this, cuz its a 99 7.3, I didn't see a dedicated drivetrain area so. . . )
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Engine felt like it was running out fuel, injectors were clacking. I got home put on AE and it has a low high open on the code reading. took valve cover off and plug came out. I did the quarter modification.
Anyway took the truck out a few days later truck drove ok when cold then after about an hour it lost power again and started clacking until it died out. I had to stop and let it cool off about 10 times before i made it home. I changed ICP sensor. took it out for ride and about ten minutes later same thing. I have to let oil temp get down to 165 before i can drive it again.
When i first drive it Icp pressure is about 500 at idle and 2650 at full throttle, that is until it starts clacking again and losing power then the engine wont take any throttle..and ICP duty cycle is at 26%... Would bad IPR do this??
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Here are some signs of the problem.
*Key fob does not work - battery is good.
*Interior overhead light works only on manual.
*Driver's auto door lock (with driver door open) will lock all four doors but the driver's door will automatically open back. To secure the truck I manually lock the driver's door.
*I replaced the driver's door 'ajar switch' with no results. The old switch was good after testing - normally closed until the ball is depressed then it goes to open.
*No codes.
*I just checked all the mini-fuses with a VOM and they are good.
*Could one of the relays be part of the problem?
I am curious if there is a scanner that can identify the bad door ajar switch if any?
From what I have read so far it appears the VSM (Vehicle Security Module) may be bad as a many of these 2002's complain of this problem and the VSM generally solves the issues. Are there folks other than the dealerships that can program the module if I purchase a new one and remove the old OEM one? Other than the inconvenience the truck runs fine other wise.
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So the truck has been stalling out and dropping power randomly, symptoms pointed to needing the 50 cent mod, changed the cps for cheap insurance and peace of mind just in case it wasn't the uvch, no dice. So last night I yanked valve covers for the first time here's what I did while I was under there, check my work.
1st I ohmed out injectors thru the 42pin harness according to tuglys sig link. My meter would only go down to a 0.4 when testing the test leads just to each other
DS injector ohms
#2 3.5
#4 3.4
#6 3.6
#8 3.6
PS injector ohms
#1 3.6
#3 3.6
#5 3.5
#7 3.6
DS glow plug ohms
#2 prong to ground 2" away 0.9 ; white connecting wire back to gp relay 0.3
#4 0.9 wire to relay 0.5
#6 infinity ohms up thru highest meter setting, checked multiple times and different ground spots,(replacing tonight) wire to relay 0.5
#8 0.5 wire to relay 0.5
PS glow plug ohms
#1 1.0 ; white wire back to relay 0.6
#3 infinity multiple tests as well (replacing tonight) wire to relay 0.5
#5 0.9 wire to relay 0.6
#7 1.0 wire to relay 0.7
Next up, ebp sensor was reading 1.9 higher than map/baro koeo, gently cleaning sensor earlier didn't work. Installed new motorcraft, will check it with Torque pro koeo once the batteries are reconnected
Next I checked the uvch connections which felt good, darn it, maybe a smidge of movement from the DS, but nothing halfway disconnected or anything. Hmm. I ground down the quarters to the top of his head and installed.
Next I torqued down the 4 bolts per cylinder of the rocker arms at 20 ft/lbs, all were perfect and snug
Next up, injector torque. I've read on here below 50, or 80 in/lbs depending on different threads and opinions that I would need to replace o-rings.
So I set the in/lb click torque wrench at 50 in/# and tested the wrench's click on the higher torqued rocker bolts, then checked all the injectors, all were good
Reset for 80in/lbs, tested, then hit all injectors, #6 almost budged but clicked immediately before the handle moved
Reset for 100 in/lb, tested on larger bolt, 2 injectors took a 1/8 turn;
Reset for official spec of 120 in/lb , tested wrench, all injectors took 1/3 to 1 full turn
Reset for 130 in/lb (above official spec, but highly recommended on here by those way more knowledgeable than me on our engines) tested on a larger bolt, slowly and carefully gave all injectors almost an extra 1/2 turn to click; whew, finally a relaxed sphincter.
At this point I knew I needed to buy 2 glow plugs today, replace, then I'll check all glow plug torque at 14 ft/lb in one go, so I got everything ready for a hot torque after I do glow plugs tonight ("unloaded" the torque wrenches) and finally installed the RiffRaff AIH delete plug. My cell phone's alarm went off to get the kids ready for school, so hit the snooze and got everything put up. Now for a nap, then buy 2 Motorcraft GP and check back on here before going back at it tonight.
I also checked the turbo for play in all directions, was nicely solid and spun smooth, no wheel damage. Up pipes and well basically everything exhaust under hood had zero signs of soot/leaks with inspection mirror.
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2001 Excursion 7.3 - stalls randomly, sometimes will not start. After the IPR was replaced it was rough for about 4 miles (I thought maybe air in the system), next 40 miles was flawless with 3 stops and restarts. Then it sat for a few hours and I went to leave again and the problem was off and on again for another 5 mile drive. Now it won't start in the driveway. It will start if I disconnect the ICP but the idle is still a little rough.
I replaced the normal culprits after a lot of searching on here:
CPS - replaced with autozone part, thought maybe it was bad new so went to ford and replaced with official part from the dealer
ICP - had oil in the plug and it would idle better removed so I replaced the plug and as much wire as I could - soldered, heat shrunk, good connections - both the pigtail and sensor came from Ford dealer
IPR - replaced with part from the Ford Dealer (FYI - 1 1/8" 1/2" drive craftsman deep socket from sears fit in the ratchet and on the part).
Grounds - found somewhere that the ground on the firewall for the windshield wipers can interfere with the CPS so I pulled it, clean the connections and made sure it was tight and secure.
No check engine light now - I received a few through the process, but did not clear them and there are no codes at this time (self cleared on the 40 mile drive)
I'm thinking it may be some electrical issue/short or a fuel issue at this point, bowl is full and the filter is fairly new (few thousand miles). I haven't done the Hutch mod, but have over 1/2 a tank.
I'm trying to get this going as quick as I can so I don't want to waste too much time, but I also don't want to miss a critical troubleshooting step to take.
Below are my thoughts on the next steps.
Research and test fuel pressure
Tow it somewhere to test each injector - I only have Torque pro to read codes and engine status
If fuel delivery checks out ok, start testing wire by wire on all of the above parts.
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My 7.3 will cough randomly on the interstate not towing or anything. It has a new turbo and filters...
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When driving my truck it coughs randomly not towing or anything going about 70 mph drops rps slightly and goes right back. It has 212000 miles new turbo and filters...
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Ok, so my 2002 f250 died on me last Tuesday out of the blue, pulled it home and found fuse 23 I think ECU power was blown. I removed my Hydra, and put a new fuse in it and all seemed well, then Friday evening on my way to dinner was driving along and truck shuts off like someone turned the key off. I replace the Crank sensor, even though I had put a new one in after the first time it died, which was last Tuesday, still would not start.
Pulled it home, went out Saturday morning to look at it and hit the key and it fired right off. At this point I don't really know where to look, I wiggled every wire I could find while it was running Saturday and no change, but it does seem to have a miss in it while it is idling...... I am not sure where to start looking....
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My charging system light in my 2000 F250 keeps coming on and off and very random times. Its been happening for quite sometime now and I finally joined FTE so I figured I would ask everyone what could be causing this. Ive disconnected all the electrical plugs from the alternator and made sure they were in there well.
It all started when I was cleaning my engine not too long after getting the alternator replaced. I don't remember getting any water anywhere near the alternator and cant understand anything causing this other than the connectors. It will cut on and then cut right off sometimes and then sometimes it comes on and stays on...
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my 2000 f350 7.3 is acting strange lately. Its got 252k and is all stock other than exhaust,intake,ww2. It smokes white every random once in a while for some reason. At start up it wont though. If i get on it every once in a while it will smoke white then go to back to black. Im not consuming coolant, and the oil looks fine, no residue on the oil cap and its not puffing out the oil cap either. Other than that its running great just dont know why it goes white every so often.
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I have a 99 f350 7.3l 4x4 and my battery light flickers randomly. I have checked the alternator and both battery's. All brand new and seems to be ok. They only are getting a charge when the battery light is flickering. I put both new batteries in on Thursday and on Sunday I needed a jump at the store.
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As would be expected things deteriorate on a 16-year-old truck. My alarm has, on a few occasions, decided to annoy anyone around by activating for no apparent reason. This has happened in various conditions (in the parking lot, in the driveway, right after I've driven it, or sitting half the night). I chalked it up to aging circuitry.
Now I've picked up something new. Over the last few weeks my truck may or may not arm. It seems to be a flip of the coin. I'll drive to the store and I push the button on my remote and the truck goes "beep"..."beep". 10 minutes later I drive home, park the truck, push the remote, and the truck goes "beep"...and that's it. My alarm light is blinking two quick flashes when this happens.
Since this has started my truck has begun randomly having a delayed start. I'll disarm the truck, turn the key, and nothing happens for about 1 second or so (seems longer) then the truck starts normally.
Both of these issues started pretty close to the same time. I would normally go straight for a starter issue but I don't know if these might be related. I'm the second owner so have absolutely no idea about the Ford anti-theft system, how it's connected, or what the blinking lights mean.
I'm considering disconnecting the anti-theft system to see if that makes a difference but, as stated, how it's connected, what I might disable, or how it works. Was there any documentation published on it?
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