Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Engine Coolant Reached 270 Degrees On OBD Link MX?
Jan 27, 2016
Just got my truck back (450) from rebuild on tranny. Hooked up my new obd link mx , and was out running the truck for a while. Started running it pretty hard to see what the gauges would do. Noticed the engine coolant was getting up pretty high, usually around 240-250, and then hit 270!!! My temp gauge on the truck wasn't budging , just stayed between hot and cold. Is this normal?? Seemed pretty hot to me but if i just took it easy on the throttle it would average around 230. If i stop and idle it quickly goes down to 206. Look at oil temp and tranny temp also engine coolant temp is bottom middle.
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What EOT temp should the fan clutch kick on at? I've never heard it kick on until a recent trip. It seems to go on about 228 degrees EOT and keeps the EOT below about 232 degrees.
At slow speeds I've found that the trans will heat up to this temp too. I assume because the radiator cooler is at that temp an there's not enough air flow for the air cooler to cool it down much?
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I have long been having troubles with white smoke at startup, even when its 90 degrees out. Long story short I've got new glowplugs, GPR, UVCHs, valve cover gaskets, injectors, turbo, valve seals, valve springs, and HPOP all within the last year. Most of those parts were needed, some maybe not so much. After installing injectors things started getting worse, whether they're related or not I'm not sure yet. I pulled passenger side valve cover off again in an attempt to figure something out and heard this coming out of the intake spider.
[URL].....
The strange thing is it goes away when it warms up. I should also note the reason I started with the passenger side is because I did a compression test and this side had the lowest readings, with #5 being 270 psi. I disconnected each injector one at a time on the passenger side to see if it made a difference while running but didn't really notice a difference. Am I looking at a motor rebuild, or at the very least a head removal?
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I have a 99 f350 Ford 7.3 service truck. It will crank and run but when it gets to 150 or 180 degrees it shuts off and will not crank back until it cools off. I have change the ECM I have change the IDM still same thing it runs till gets hot and then it cuts off. I have changed IPR valve IPC sensor .check the high pressure oil pressure it is around 800 900 at an idle it is around that pressure but when first starts up it is higher once it starts and runs it idles around that pressure 800 900 psi....
I have hooked up my scanner and it shows around 150 degrees oil temperature it shuts off . The high pressure oil stays the same as it was when you first crank it the low pressure crankcase oil is 60 psi ... Once the oil temperature reaches around 150 ~160 degrees the engine will shut off . Once you let it sit overnight or for several hours it might crank up ....
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Had coolant in oil, so pulled motor. Got used motor to replace it with, thinking about doing some work on it before reinstall.
Got bellowed up pipes, injector o-rings, front and rear main seal, and will use best parts from both motors to make one. I'll also shim injector armatures back to spec.
Should I do injector cups too? What else is recommended to do at this time? Both motors are 350k or so, I was on a budget at a moment and have to make it work with what I got.
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I am trying to figure out the problem with my 2002 ford 7.3 Engine.
[URL] ....
It has a lost of engine coolant. The oil is 100% clean with no signs of Coolant. No chocolate milk effect. Also it makes a Odd thumping noise at idle. I think it is coming from the Exhaust Manifold.
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I drove my 99.5 7.3 F-350 1 mile to a friends and hooked it to the OBDII to get a code for my abs light.it had not been drove all day. we hooked into the pcm and he noticed the temp at 375* it was idling. is this right he didnt think it should have been that high???Will the engine coolant temp sensor, if it were bad,show a high temp of 375*? On the OBDII it showed a temp of 375* .....
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I was going to order a ECT gauge and was wondering where to mount the sensor. I have already used the port under the T-stat for the coolant filter. The gauge sensor is a 1/8 NPT. Would the block drains be a good location, or is there another location that will work.
I know the coolant filter housing has a port, but I would prefer the sensor be on the motor.
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I have a 2006 350. When I am pulling my camp trailer (about 12,500 lbs) up a grade I hear a fan or blower turn on and I get a high pitched squeal. It will also have a beep and my in dash display will say high engine temp. I have a bullydog pmt programmer (i tow with it in stock mode) the display will show my coolant temp at about 180 degrees. If I pull over and let it idle for about 2 minutes the warning clears and the temp gauge returns to normal. the display reads about 180 degrees the whole time this goes on. I know the engine is not over heating so why do i get this warning and squeal?
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Just purchased a 2003 F-350 Super Duty Lariat Crew Cab w/ 6.0L Powerstroke Diesel w/ 192,000 miles. This truck will be used exclusively for pulling my 36', 8,000lbs travel trailer. I have a 2011 F-150 Ecoboost as my daily driver. The 2003 was purchased from a used dealer in Texas and is in immaculate condition and was definitely not a work truck. It was a 55 degree day and the truck was inside their building when I picked it up. No starting issues then and drove it the 3 hour 70-75mph trip home, with 2 stops on the way (wife was along) with no issues. Started quick and ran like a champ. The next morning it was 32 degrees outside and it would not start. I cycled the key on & off several times prior to starting and still no start. Plugged the heater in and 1 hour later it fired up. I have noticed since that if the outdoor temperature is below 55 degrees, it will not start without being plugged in. When plugged in, it starts easy, no smoke, purrs like a tiger at idle and runs great. I Have started on a mental list of things to check.....here goes:
1. The dealer stated he just changed the oil & filter. Can't rely on this 100 percent so I plan to put new 15W40 oil and filter in. Oklahoma summers are pretty warm.
2. Check the FICM for 48 voltage output.
3. The glow plug indicator on the dash is working. The colder it is outside, the longer it stays on. If the indicator is working, is this an indicator that the glow plug relay is working? Anyway....plan to check this relay.
4. Pull one or two glow plugs, ones easy to get to, to verify their function.
5. Check both batteries....I assume they will have to be disconnected from one another before doing this.
I have been working on gasoline engines for 40 years and no stranger to busted knuckles & dirty fingernails.....just new to diesel engines. I am impressed however with their construction and method of operating.
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My friend bartered for a '99 F250, 2wd/auto, 4 door, 7.3, 258k miles.
It had reportedly sat for one year, though the expired registration sticker and other things point to it sitting for two.
It ran low on oil, sputtered and died. Oil in the degas tank. Filled to oil to mid way on the hatch marks on the dip stick.
I drove it 25 miles to my house, and the oil level is not reading on the dip stick.
The sludgy fluid level in the degas tank is unchanged. Where is the fluid going?
I will refill the oil to see just how much it lost in the 25 miles if it important to someone, but I prefer to not waste the oil.
My first plan is to remove, inspect and replace the oil cooler o-rings. Even though the dealership charged him for this, I don't trust that they did it right. I think it is the easiest and mostly likely place for oil getting into the coolant.
It does have a really long crank before there is enough low pressure oil for it to start. At the moment I think this is a separate issue.
The dealership also charged him for a replacement injector. No idea if they replaced the cup or not.
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What is the effect will some oil contamination is the cooling system?
Does it significantly affect the cooling efficiency? I have some oil the coolant on my boat. I do not believe it is a lot maybe a few oz, but I have been chasing some unexplained overheating issues. Will adding water wetter solve oil issues (if there are any). The other option is Dawn and several cycles of flushing the system. ie until the cows come home!
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I have a 2002 excursion and every time I try to put the coolant at the min level cold, it overflows through the cap until it is about 1.5-2 inches below the min level. Then it stops. I just did the oil cooler seals last night because I had a little oil in the coolant. Same thing happened this morning - overflowed again.
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Although not certain, I *thought* I saw coolant run into the front drivers side injector hole when the injector was out and I leaned on the radiator hose. I had knowledge t pull them and changing the orings who were initially concerned then not concerned after looking closer.
Either I made a mistake in what I thought I saw on my first experience with injectors, or there really is a problem that I didn't know enough about to address at the time. So I opened this thread to get more info and stop hijacking 67speeda's thread, found here: [URL] ....
As per recommendations, I will check my coolant bottle for any fuel, oil, residue, etc. I am also going to reach out to my buddies and see if they saw a problem with coolant, too, or they realized it wasn't coolant and I didn't take note of it ...
It was a REALLY LONG day and my ability to concentrate had begun to slip quickly (health issues), so it's possible I missed something there. So IF I saw coolant going into that cylinder with the injector removed, how bad would that be? I thought it came from pretty high up and ran down where the injector sits..
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So just a couple hundred miles ago I changed the oil and oil filter in my 99 7.3 ... It wasn't till today I noticed an oil/coolant leak ... It is on the driver side of the engine by the oil cooler ... "It isn't the oil cooler leaking already checked"... It seems to be behind the water pump to the driver side of the hpop... Where the thermostat is it is like right behind that but I can't think of what it is .... Its not the oil pump leaking ... It is leaking down and being blown back across my oil pan and oil filter... That is the oil cooler it has residue but its not the problem
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So we begin w/ another saga for the 7.3l Excursion......
A few months ago it started running like crap, real crap and blowing white smoke like crazy. Well I knew this from a previous episode and I had a bad or multiple bad injectors. I tried to trouble shoot which one it was and maybe just replace the one or two....but no it was worse than that. So Life was really busy it kinda got shoved aside until now.
I pulled all the injectors and had them rebuilt locally ..nice. They ended up being with mech for a couple of weeks because he went out of town...no problem. Well this entire time my rig was untouched and when I got them back #7 was full of water.....great, bad injector cup. #7 was the only one, the rest were dry. So I drained the radiator and the oil and left it overnight to completely drain and installed the new injector cup in #7. Next day I refilled via both heads because the valve covers were off, 4 gallons of oil and a new oil filter. Cleared the cylinders via the glow plugs and commenced to trying to get her started. Nada......just cranks, killed the batteries, recharged over night and left the box on them and still nada....but the oil was still very milky at this point.
So tonight I pulled all the injectors back out and drained the oil again, still a lot of water. This time I sucked out the HPOP reservoir and got a more milky water/oil out and I'm leaving everything open all night.
In the am I plan to check my overflow water level in the hopes it remains at the same level...if so I will reinstall all 8 injectors and refill the motor w/ 4 gallons of fresh oil and try again.
Oh, while I was attempting get her started I put my buddies Snapon scan tool on it and I got the p1271-p1278 codes w/ the buzz test. (low side to high side open circuit between idm and injector) So I found the pin test with everything connected at the idm pigtail and everything tested good. So I'm back to my not so fresh oil anymore is the culprit to it not starting.
Am I missing something here?
Also....another fun filled fact is that I seem to have a fuel leak somewhere at the rear passenger side. Every time my fuel bowl fills up, if I shut the key off it will drain down. Sometimes I can see fuel dripping quite vigorously onto my starter but I can not see where it is coming from. I have while it was dripping ran my hand along the head and the fuel lines and can not find where it is coming from. Any thoughts as to where in the hell this fuel could be leaking from?
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Since changing to ELC a couple years ago, my truck will leak a small amount of coolant when I stay over night at the beach house. I haven't noticed any coolant leaks at any other times. I was down there Saturday night and it leaked about two or three tablespoons of coolant over night. I drove home Sunday, and my truck has been parked in the same place for almost 72 hours without a leak. This has happened a couple dozen times over the last two years. The elevation of the driveway at the beach house is 6' above sea level. "Home" (around Houston) is anywhere from 35' to 80' above sea level. Is there any way that the lower elevation is causing this leak? I'm pretty sure it's coming from the thermostat housing, but because I replaced the upper hose, I can't tell if the dried ELC around the housing is new or old.
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Edit, I have also noticed I have been getting low on coolant, but without any noticeable coolant leaks. My engine oil still looks clean, where could the oil be going? How do I fix it?
2003 Excursion 153,000 miles - stock injectors, gt38r with new pedestal, Adrenaline HPOP, double transmission cooler.
I've noticed after some heavy towing with my camper (8,300 lbs), I've been getting a new oil leak showing up on my garage floor. I crawled underneath this afternoon and found three large oil droplets on the starter. See picture. What could this be dripping from?
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Is there any kind of test short of sending a sample to Blackstone or the like to verify if there is actually fuel in my degas bottle as opposed to oil residue from bad oil cooler O-rings?
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So I have a 2003 6.0 king ranch w/ 164k on it.. EGR delete, high pressure oil pump, coolant filter and SCT tuning. A couple months back I had a coolant flush done. After about a week the coolant tank was empty.. Engine heated up due to loss of coolant.. I flushed system again and put ford gold coolant back into the tank. (5 gallons). A couple days later and coolant was very low and engine heated up?? There are no signs of leaks anywhere...Added water and it cooled back down. I'm lost. EGR is deleted but no studs done.....
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I was searching for an oil leak forever. In my search for the leak I resealed my hpop, redid oilcooler rings and last week had a friend pull my motor to redo the pan gasket. The leaks were almost down to where I thought we had them beat. Now in the last couple days I'm losing coolant and oil....bad. there is oil on the ground mostly from the cross member. Question is did my oil cooler fix not take? I have read that a nicked of ring can cause this.
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